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Discussion Starter #1
So guys I have been searching and reading a lot about how to battle the heat here in Kuwait as it's almost impossible to drive in sport or sharp sport modes during the day (and sometimes at night). So I have bought an OBD-II scanner to get some data that might help me in research (Will install more reliable data gathering methods in the future).

So as not to harm the car, I did this test at 3am as it's the coolest time in the day :lol: (you'll see in the photos that you can't call that temp. "COOL")


The next photos are self explanatory:
1. The car is in parking position.


2. Car in sharp sport mode and pushed to it's limit for around 2-3 minutes (High RPM's + speed 100-130mph)


3. Car at a traffic light for around 1-2 minutes after the crazy driving :D


4. Parked at home for around 6 minutes


I have posted before on the forum asking about the best ways to battle the heat and got a lot of useful answers (thanks guys) but still doing my research as even with installing bigger rad. , oil pan, etc I still need to keep in mind that the oil might be too cold for the engine in the winter (outside temps. around 33f - 70f ).. The summer here is around 122f - 139f so that's a HUGE difference in temperatures! :(

It would be really useful if some performance parts companies came here to do some test on their products in this heat.. Would love to see that :lol:
 

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1. The SI Drive mode wouldn't affect anything.

2. The temperature looks pretty normal to me as long as the stock gauge doesn't show overheat. There will always be temperature spike when you are wot.

3. What gauges are you using to take the temperature? Scanner that reads from ecu thru obd2 only?

4. Get aftermarket radiator fan or radiator to combat the heat. Swap oil for winter.
 

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1. The SI Drive mode wouldn't affect anything.

2. The temperature looks pretty normal to me as long as the stock gauge doesn't show overheat. There will always be temperature spike when you are wot.

3. What gauges are you using to take the temperature? Scanner that reads from ecu thru obd2 only?

4. Get aftermarket radiator fan or radiator to combat the heat. Swap oil for winter.
See my comments below

1) driving in s# increases boost, power, and therefore heat generated by the motor, hence the overload on the coolant system.

2)217 coolant is indicative of around 240-260f oil temps, which is very hot, especially for a stock vehicle.

4) only get spal fans if you're going to upgrade fans, otherwise don't bother. Aftermarket rad is recommended.

I will have to post a short write up to go over exactly what I did for combating heat soak with 500 whp on pump 93 in Houston summer. Below is a short synopsis;

1) aftermarket rad, koyo
2) Perrin radiator ducting
3) mishi fan ducting
4) 2x spal fans 1650 cfm each
5) oil cooler with thermo sandwich plate (where the tmic sat)
6)Stuck the air intake down the passenger side wheel well, and cut gaping holes in the fog light cover ($15 new) for fresh air.
7) ducting around intake.

I am eventually switching to e85 just for cooling properties. Message me if you want picks. I have a 2015 sti.
 

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2)217 coolant is indicative of around 240-260f oil temps, which is very hot, especially for a stock vehicle.
I disagree 3 mins of boosting will result in 240-260 degree oil temps. Oil temperature is a function of friction...high rpm. I can do 20-30 mins of road course before I see 'high' oil temps.

Good informative post though!

Kuwait will likely be a very challenging location for keeping your cool.
 

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I disagree 3 mins of boosting will result in 240-260 degree oil temps. Oil temperature is a function of friction...high rpm. I can do 20-30 mins of road course before I see 'high' oil temps.

Good informative post though!

Kuwait will likely be a very challenging location for keeping your cool.


OP has frighteningly high ambient!
Those are "peak" temps, and it's not overheating.
I would have expected this, and I wouldn't relate oil temp directly to water temp, particularly in transient conditions, such as three minutes of hard driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tastetickles: Thanks man... The stock gauge didn't show overheating at this ambient but it did when the outside temps. were around 130F at almost same conditions of driving.
yeah it was just an obd-II scanner as I haven't installed any gauges yet on the car.

uschearak: Interesting set-up.. I guess I need almost the same just for driving around hahaha.. Can't do anything with CAI as it will void my warranty but will check for hosing, Radiator and such. So what is a SPAL fan exactly? :p

TimM: It is, as temperatures rise and fall significantly between summer and winter.

mheyman: Will do more tests and you'll see even scarier temps as I intend to do the next tests during the day time :s

Thank you guys for the inputs and I know that it will take a long time of research and planning to solve this issue.. I have to consider that I need a transmission oil cooler too in case I swapped my Radiator as my car is an Automatic transmission.

Next I was thinking of doing these tests during the day when temps are between 110f- 130f:
1. Normal driving (on intelligent mode).
2. Aggressive driving for few minutes. (Which is scary as hell)

I have done some aggressive driving during the day before but didn't have any method of checking the temps besides the stock gauge (which raised up to 75% before I got scared and let off the pedal).
 

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OP has frighteningly high ambient!
Those are "peak" temps, and it's not overheating.
I would have expected this, and I wouldn't relate oil temp directly to water temp, particularly in transient conditions, such as three minutes of hard driving.
due to the liquid to liquid "cooler/heater" found in the STI, you can equate the coolant temp to oil temp...roughly. I know what my temps are, and can say that the coolant fluctuates drastically within 10 seconds of my oil temp.

who knows though, doesn't matter. OP needs to run as many cooling components as possible.

one easy solution is turning on your heater (non AC) and blowing it out the open window. I never run hot doing this. I, myself, start overheating though. 103+ with 90% humidity is awful.
 

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Tastetickles: Thanks man... The stock gauge didn't show overheating at this ambient but it did when the outside temps. were around 130F at almost same conditions of driving.
yeah it was just an obd-II scanner as I haven't installed any gauges yet on the car.

uschearak: Interesting set-up.. I guess I need almost the same just for driving around hahaha.. Can't do anything with CAI as it will void my warranty but will check for hosing, Radiator and such. So what is a SPAL fan exactly? :p

TimM: It is, as temperatures rise and fall significantly between summer and winter.

mheyman: Will do more tests and you'll see even scarier temps as I intend to do the next tests during the day time :s

Thank you guys for the inputs and I know that it will take a long time of research and planning to solve this issue.. I have to consider that I need a transmission oil cooler too in case I swapped my Radiator as my car is an Automatic transmission.

Next I was thinking of doing these tests during the day when temps are between 110f- 130f:
1. Normal driving (on intelligent mode).
2. Aggressive driving for few minutes. (Which is scary as hell)

I have done some aggressive driving during the day before but didn't have any method of checking the temps besides the stock gauge (which raised up to 75% before I got scared and let off the pedal).

Spal fans are what the F1 teams run, and my tuner shop swears by them...They move a crap load of air...

https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/productlist/0118/products/fans/fans+-+high+performance.aspx
 

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@OP.

1. I have the exact same car as you do edm 2013 gr. For the peace of mind get a Tactrix Openport or similar devices to log your car, it's expected you will experience power loss in that hot weather but just to make sure it's not so bad that it's pinging.

2. You can get the Defi Club Sport package, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure quite cheap atm from rhdjapan.com now.

3. I think it's just a temperature spike when you pull once or twice but off course a worthwhile investment for cooling mods for those hot weather.

@usc I do not doubt the oil temp affects your water temp in your car but your car is a monster while OP's car is stock. A wot pull on your car would yield a dramatically higher temp than a stock one. And I still stand by SI drive has no effect on boost levels, etc but that's a dead horse that's being beaten 9 times to hell so I'm not gonna start another one (at least one the 2013 it doesn't judging from the torque request value in the stock rom)
 

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@uschearak:

Those fans look like some high quality.. and their prices are not bad considering the outcome.. Thank you for the info. :tup:

Will try the heater method and will write you back that's if I wasn't dead of a heat strike lol

I will try to make a list of some cooling components soon and run it by you as I'm really interested to hear your opinion. oh and check out the next reply as I have done the same test but in 124f ambient temperature :D


@tastetickles:

THANK YOU for the info. about the openport and the gauges, I will definitely look into it.. Today I have done the same test but in 124f ambient temperature.. and would love to hear your thoughts about it :tup:

you guys ROCK!:cool::tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
UPDATE:

I have done some tests during the day with an ambient temp. of around 125f ... I was going to keep WOT for long but the car's coolant temperature gauge was going higher and higher rapidly so I stopped..

so here's the results:
1. Start-up from home, Car was in shaded parking.



2. driving in sharp sport mode for 30 seconds with almost WOT.



3. start-up after parking in direct sunlight for 40 minutes!



4. Sport Sharp mode for 1 minute with almost WOT after parking in direct sunlight!

 

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1, 2 and 3 looks normal. Don't do 4, cars are not meant to be revved wot when stationary for 1 minute regardless of weather unless u live in North pole.
 

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@uschearak:

Those fans look like some high quality.. and their prices are not bad considering the outcome.. Thank you for the info. :tup:

Will try the heater method and will write you back that's if I wasn't dead of a heat strike lol

I will try to make a list of some cooling components soon and run it by you as I'm really interested to hear your opinion. oh and check out the next reply as I have done the same test but in 124f ambient temperature :D


@tastetickles:

THANK YOU for the info. about the openport and the gauges, I will definitely look into it.. Today I have done the same test but in 124f ambient temperature.. and would love to hear your thoughts about it :tup:

you guys ROCK!:cool::tup:
Sounds good bud,

Some thing to stay away from are lower temp opening thermostats. PM me anytime you have a question or want to chat, would love to brainstorm solutions.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
1, 2 and 3 looks normal. Don't do 4, cars are not meant to be revved wot when stationary for 1 minute regardless of weather unless u live in North pole.
Oh no.. number 4 was driving (sharp sport mode) AFTER the car was parked in direct sunlight... sorry for the Un clear discription..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sounds good bud,

Some thing to stay away from are lower temp opening thermostats. PM me anytime you have a question or want to chat, would love to brainstorm solutions.
Yeah heard how those thermostats can mess up the car in hot weather..

Thank you for the offer and will keep you updated :tup:
 

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Appologies for bumping an old thread here. But i was hoping someone could point in the direction of Spal Fans for our 2015 application. I'll be purchasing a Koyo or Mishi Rad soon. Trying to deal with high coolant temps on and off the track. Already on e85, but going up the hill to tahoe in the summer is scary af
 
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