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Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally made time tonight to take pics and write up a stepby step since I've gotten numerous emails on how to do this mod. So without further ado...

Unpack everything and make sure its all there. Sorry to say this, but ou will probably have to run to the store once or twice. Ok first lets install the LCD screen. This is easy. You pick a spot and stick it there. For my demonstration I put it on the silver Subaru plate (cause it matches and less wiring is shown) -- first picture --. Then after mounting it there (with double sided tape) I ran the wire down the glove box (so you only see that one piece) and the extra wire under the middle piece (i dont know what to call it). Your brain will be put under there as well -- middle picture --. I put all the wiring from the solenoid under here too... you cant see it unless you REALLY look -- last picture --.

I can only do 3 pics at a time, so i will have to do a post per piece of installation.

Robert~

Picture 1:


 

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Ok setting up the solenoid... The solenoid I mounted right on the P/S lines (??) -- Picture 1 --. Run the wires from the solenoid through the grommet to the cabin (to run to the brain). Now heres the fun part... run a hose from the 'IN' on the solenoid to the compressor side of the turbo (SILVER PIECE) -- Picture 2 --. Then run a hose from the 'OUT' of the solenoid to the Wastegate Actuator piece (GOLD) -- Picture 3 --.

The grommet is offscreen sorry...

The hose from the solenoid will need a reducer (comes with the blitz), but the smaller hose is not included... you will need to buy some. 5-6mm vacuum hose i believe.

Robert~



 

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Ok, now you have the LCD and solenoid ready to go. You have the brain packed away under the middle dash area and now all you gotta do is run a vacuum line to the brain adn you should be ready to go. Plug everything into the brain as shown in the instructions, easy. Now... heres how to run the vacuum line. You will need to cut a piece in the intake manifold (for best boost accuracy). Ok on picture 1, you will see where to T in the vacuum line. After this just run the hose through the grommet and to your brain. hook it up to that black tiny hose. (also NOTE: you are supposed to use that tiny black hose for your vacuum line. i HATE that hose and didnt use it... i dont know if this is a problem though, i wouldnt think so, but i was told to use hte black tiny hose). After that you should be all set. LCD hooked up to brain, Solenoid hooked up to brain, IN hose to compressor, OUT hose to actuator, Vacuum line from manifold to brain and you're DONE! Hope this tutorial helped!!! Heres a view of what your wires look like inside the cabin from a normal view (not looking under the dash). If you have any questions/comments email me: [email protected] or AIM me: Boostin STi.

On the last pic , I left one of the wires hanging... whoops, its easy to keep clean and looking nice :).

Robert~



 

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Discussion Starter #5
Takes 30 minutes to install and uninstall. Easy smeasy. Just make sure all connections are sealed or you will have a headache.

ALSO, MEANT TO PUT THIS UP THERE... DO NOT REUSE OR DISCARD STOCK HOSES ON THE TURBO. BLOCK THEM OFF AND SET THEM SOMEWHERE ASIDE AND OUT OF THE WAY

Robert~
 

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Thanks Robert! Now I don't have to bug you anymore :p

One more question for me, though. What did you use to block off the stock hoses, and why not reuse or discard? (I guess that's two questions).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
lol its no problem man! Dont reuse them as the compressor side has a restrictor in it, don just discard them because they are read by the stock computer. Just block it off with like a hose connector and just cap the end. TurboXS in the manual boost controller instructions, says DO NOT REUSE OR DISCARD the stock hoses, so i pass on the advisory.

Robert~
 

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Finally!

Robert,
I dont see how you wired the brain... I'm confused :eek:

-d
 

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mkewrx said:
Robert,
I dont see how you wired the brain... I'm confused :eek:

-d
I just did this the other night, so maybe I can help out (for once!). The LCD plugs into the brain, and the solenoid plugs into the brain, and it's pretty obvious where they go, so when you say "wired", I assume you mean wiring the power (this part was left out of the directions). The guy I had do my install suggested we get the power from the ignition switch, which makes sense. So, we just fed the wire through to the driver's side and hooked it up. Not sure exactly where he got ground from, but you can get that from anywhere. Hope this helps!
 

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So all you need is power and ground? That's what I was referring too. Thanks
 

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mkewrx said:
So all you need is power and ground? That's what I was referring too. Thanks
Yes, switched power (make sure it has a low amp fuse) and ground.

NOTE: The kit (from Dan @ Godspeed) will have most of what you need (use metal minimizers he provides, instead of plastic ones in kit).

The EXCEPTIONS are:
1) the reducers and smaller hose to hook up the vacuum (from the brain) to the manifold. (All our manifold vacuum hoses are too large for the prongs on the metal-T in the kit.)
2) the smaller hose to run from each reducer (on the selenoid lines) to the turbo and actuator.

Buy two more reducers and about 1 ft. of smaller hose (same size as stock hose from T from turbo to actuator). You will use this smaller hose for exceptions 1 & 2.

I lucked out and was able to tap onto my factor boost gauge line, so I only needed 1 ft. of vacuum hose (or none, if you cut the stock piece). If you do this make sure you tap at the T where the stock gauge connects (there is a restricter up the line about 8 inches for the factory gauge, you will want to tap BEFORE it).

My suggestion is to try and make the vacuum to brain connection first thing, so you will see what parts you are short and can run to the auto parts store before you car is all apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Stikya said:
mkewrx said:
The EXCEPTION is the part to hook up the vacuum line to the brain. All our manifold vacuum hoses are too large for the prongs on the T in the kit. You will need a two reducers and some smaller hose.

I lucked out and was able to tap onto my factor boost gauge line, so I only needed 1 ft. of vacuum hose (or none, if you cut the stock piece). If you do this make sure you tap at the T where the stock gauge connects (there is a restricter up the line about 8 inches for the factory gauge, you will want to tap BEFORE it).

My suggestion is to try and make the vacuum to brain connection first thing, so you will see what parts you are short and can run to the auto parts store before you car is all apart.
wait a sec... why not just use vacutite or plastic reducers/Ts... you do not NEED metal, at 16-17psi (i've even hit 19) and have never had a problem with them. Dan said NOT to tap into the stock gauge spot, as it isnt the best place. My setup the first time, when i tapped into the stock gauge, had boost spikes and inaccurate display... in the manifold reading is perfect. I and Dan do not suggest tapping into anything but the manifold (as that was what I was told... and having seen the difference, I would say tap in manifold only - although your suggestion may work).

Robert~
 

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staticx313 said:
...you do not NEED metal...

Dan said NOT to tap into the stock gauge spot, as it isnt the best place. My setup the first time, when i tapped into the stock gauge, had boost spikes and inaccurate display... in the manifold reading is perfect.

Robert~
Purely precautionary (w/ the metal reducers). Dan includes the metal, as he said there has been case of the platic ones melting under the heat, over time.

Yea, I discussed my tap location w/ Dan on the phone and he said, in theory, it's the same as being in the manifold. Because that line (that the factory gauge taps), runs into the manifold. It is all one big vacuum pressure circle-(supposedly) equal at all points.

Basically, it was easiest and most obvious to hook up (for a beginner, like me), and, luckily, I've had consistent readings w/ it. Others may find it works for them, too; although I recognize there may be alternatives that are more certain.

PS (EDIT)
For all interested, my procedures to setup are below.


NOTE:
1) According to Dan, the SBC reports boost a little low; and cold weather will cause spikes (magnified if you have a CAI). Be conservative w/ your settings, especially in cold conditions.
2) Start low, set 35/gain 9, and work up.

Setup Procedures:
*Decide what your "target" boost is. (14.5 in 3rd/4th would match factory).
*Also decide your max boost comfort level (for 5th and 6th). i.e. 15.5.
*Find an empty road, preferably w/ a shoulder where you can pull over and make adjustments.

*Nail it in 1st and check your peak boost. Raise set, and recheck, until boost is about 2psi under your "target".
*Check 3rd. Adjust set up/down, and recheck, until you hit your target in 3rd.
*Check 6th-it will be around or slightly above your target.
*Raise gain, and recheck, stop raising gain when boost in 6th reaches the highest level your are comfortable with.

My final settings are as follows:
47 set/13 gain (20 degrees F outside)
51 set/13 gain (45 degrees F outside)
I get increased variability (w/ changes in outside temp), since I have a cold air intake.

My Results:
1st - 13psi
3rd/4th - 14.6 psi
6th - 15.6 psi
 

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wussup guys i was wondering what is the background color on your blitz sbc, does it light up in green or another color. also why did you choose the blitz sbc over like the apexi one, cause im kinda of stuck in between which one i should get, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
sti_187 said:
wussup guys i was wondering what is the background color on your blitz sbc, does it light up in green or another color. also why did you choose the blitz sbc over like the apexi one, cause im kinda of stuck in between which one i should get, thanks.
The background is sometimes blue blue, then sometimes white... i dun know. I bought it thinking it would be a cool blue background, but *shrug* its not all the time. (as my pictures on cardomain have shown it in blue). I think it works better and is much easier to use and install then the AVCR, although i do not have the cash to try out both. Sorry.

did the sbc cause a cel? how does the sbc compare with the apexi avc-r? thanks in advance.

Kyle R
No, not 1 CEL and Im at 14XXX miles :). I like it better then the AVCR as it seems easier to install and easier to tune. It is 100% precise and accurate run after run and is VERY very userfriendly. I like how there are only like 3 pieces to it (other then hoses and whatnot). LCD, Brain, and Solenoid. Really makes it easy to trouble shoot if you have any problems (especially since the solenoid is the only thing that would require troubleshooting **unless the vacuum line to the brain is leaking**).

Hope this helps!

Robert~
 

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robert, have you heard anything good or bad about the turboxs manual boost controllers? im still debating on electronic or manual boost control. thanks.

Kyle R
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i used the Turboxs and although it was cheap (i guess 99.99 is cheap) "cheaper" i should say, it didnt have the same consistancy and quickness as an EBC. The EBC has a built in boost gauge (digital and easy to read), peak psi, 4 channels, limiter, etc etc etc. The EBC is just much better all around.

Robert~
 

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I installed mine today, using a little different setup. I only used about a foot total of that thick blue tubing and I hooked up the boost gauge to the BOV hose.

Why are you settings so off? I can set mine using a LOT lower numbers where you use

47 set/13 gain (20 degrees F outside)
51 set/13 gain (45 degrees F outside)

I use ~18 set/14 gain. I'm confused. What's that number represent?
 
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