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Should I start by getting a new pick up tube and do new oil and filter? I found small metal shards in the bottom of the pan when i pulled it off. What caps do i have to pop off? What else can i check for before calling the engine broke. The car ran and drove fine, it just had that clanking sound. Which direction would you go in with the car?
Dont take this the wrong way but the truth is often frowned upon. Im talking about the bearing caps. If your really not sure as to what im talking about then this isnt the job for you. You said you already found metal in the oil....that a sure sign this engine is on its way out and on its last leg. Metal shards/shavings is a sure sign of oil starvation which leads to bearing failure, thus spun bearings.

This kind of stuff has been covered a thousand times over the years here. If you dont believe me then you can search around for yourself. This is not just a "simple knock" This is very serious and borderline catastrophic engine failure. That is the next step which will result in the engine not running at all. Like ive been saying, the car needs an engine rebuild
 

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We didn't see your oil. But if you actually saw any metal, the engine is surely done no matter what the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Dont take this the wrong way but the truth is often frowned upon. Im talking about the bearing caps. If your really not sure as to what im talking about then this isnt the job for you. You said you already found metal in the oil....that a sure sign this engine is on its way out and on its last leg. Metal shards/shavings is a sure sign of oil starvation which leads to bearing failure, thus spun bearings.

This kind of stuff has been covered a thousand times over the years here. If you dont believe me then you can search around for yourself. This is not just a "simple knock" This is very serious and borderline catastrophic engine failure. That is the next step which will result in the engine not running at all. Like ive been saying, the car needs an engine rebuild

I believe you guys 100% thats why I posted on this site. I ordered the pick up tube, I'm going to clean everything and install the tube and put oil and filter in and start it. Either way if the motor still makes the noise in the video or not im going to replace the bottom end and i will need a new pick up anyway . I am just going to get a complete bottom end to save myself the headache of a complete rebuild. I will keep you guys posted on the situation. Thank you for the help so far.
 

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I believe you guys 100% thats why I posted on this site. I ordered the pick up tube, I'm going to clean everything and install the tube and put oil and filter in and start it. Either way if the motor still makes the noise in the video or not im going to replace the bottom end and i will need a new pick up anyway . I am just going to get a complete bottom end to save myself the headache of a complete rebuild. I will keep you guys posted on the situation. Thank you for the help so far.

Before you do that, if it ate a bearing one of the rods will wiggle much more than the others. Pull a bearing cap off and check the crank surface out. if its marked at all its toast. With the amount of knocking in your video something is considerably loose and will wiggle, bottom or top end wherever. If its not just make sure you torque it right.

you need to inspect and find a cause/effect of your issue. there is no point to throw money at oil and run it just to see. Be smart, we are talking spending a few thousand to make it right potentially. As much help as people may be, you need to find the issue out for yourself. no one here can see the block and what your seeing.
 

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/\ /\ /\ /\ /\

Unless you plan to replace literally everything oil touches that you can't clean perfectly, you don't want to pump metal around the engine!
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
A little update. I rotated the crank and shook all the bearing caps and noticed that 2 had very minimum wiggle in them. I also noticed a decent amount of oil on the ground that looks like it came from the opening on the bottom of the flex plate. I researched a little bit and I'm thinking the loss of oil was from the rear main seal leaking. When I was rotating the engine slowly I didn't feel any binding or see/hear any noise or grinding. My oil tube will be in by the end of the week. Will I need to drop the tranny to do the rear main seal? What other preventative maintenance can I do while I have the tranny down? Change fluid? Anything I should look for on the clutch or housing? What else should I check for on the motor before I pull it from the car. I'm thinking about ordering a block with forged internals? Any specific brand I should go with or company I should order it from. I'm in Alaska so
I know shipping will be crazy. Let me know what you guys think. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #28
A little update. I rotated the crank and shook all the bearing caps and noticed that 2 had very minimum wiggle in them. I also noticed a decent amount of oil on the ground that looks like it came from the opening on the bottom of the flex plate. I researched a little bit and I'm thinking the loss of oil was from the rear main seal leaking. When I was rotating the engine slowly I didn't feel any binding or see/hear any noise or grinding. My oil tube will be in by the end of the week. Will I need to drop the tranny to do the rear main seal? What other preventative maintenance can I do while I have the tranny down? Change fluid? Anything I should look for on the clutch or housing? What else should I check for on the motor before I pull it from the car. I'm thinking about ordering a block with forged internals? Any specific brand I should go with or company I should order it from. I'm in Alaska so
I know shipping will be crazy. Let me know what you guys think. Thank you


Now that I think about it, it will be pointless to replace the rear main seal on this motor when I'm planning on getting a new short block.
 

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Should I start by getting a new pick up tube and do new oil and filter? I found small metal shards in the bottom of the pan when i pulled it off. What caps do i have to pop off? What else can i check for before calling the engine broke. The car ran and drove fine, it just had that clanking sound. Which direction would you go in with the car? One more thing I want to add is that, on my COBB access port there is no indication of fine knock learn or feedback knock.

These are two completely different things.

The knocking that you're hearing are the bowels of the engine eating itself and causing catastrophic damage (bearings eating the crankshaft). The damage has already started and will NOT get better even with a new pick-up tube. Continuing to run it will only make the damage much worse, possibly even damaging the heads as well.
But it sounds like you want to do it anyway, despite EVERYONE telling you not to run it anymore, so don't be surprised if your next thread is "do these valves look damaged???"

The knock that Cobb is monitoring is also referred to as detonation/pre-ignition/auto-ignition, where the air/fuel mixture is literally auto-igniting WITHOUT the spark plug, extremely similar to diesels.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
These are two completely different things.

The knocking that you're hearing are the bowels of the engine eating itself and causing catastrophic damage (bearings eating the crankshaft). The damage has already started and will NOT get better even with a new pick-up tube. Continuing to run it will only make the damage much worse, possibly even damaging the heads as well.
But it sounds like you want to do it anyway, despite EVERYONE telling you not to run it anymore, so don't be surprised if your next thread is "do these valves look damaged???"

The knock that Cobb is monitoring is also referred to as detonation/pre-ignition/auto-ignition, where the air/fuel mixture is literally auto-igniting WITHOUT the spark plug, extremely similar to diesels.[/QUOTlE]

I'm not disagreeing with anyone, this is my first subbie and I want to learn how to access the problems and fix all the common problems and keep the car for a while. I know the 2 bearing caps that have wiggle indicate bearing damage. I'm going to save some money and order and IAG stage 1 short block and go from there. Ill keep updating as I go
 

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It's good that you're trying to learn. Just be aware, these are some of the most finicky engines you'll ever work on. It's not a Chevy small block which fits together like Lego bricks and will run after a shot from a tank. If you, at any point, aren't 100% sure, stop and either get a shop or more experienced friend involved. It's really easy to throw $5k down the drain with a misstep.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
It's good that you're trying to learn. Just be aware, these are some of the most finicky engines you'll ever work on. It's not a Chevy small block which fits together like Lego bricks and will run after a shot from a tank. If you, at any point, aren't 100% sure, stop and either get a shop or more experienced friend involved. It's really easy to throw $5k down the drain with a misstep.
New update. I found a stock ej257 short block with 90k miles on it. It cost me $1200 for the motor and $135 for the shipping. Is there any company that sells complete engine gasket kits? Im going to do as much of the maintenance on the new motor before I install it. Moroso oil pick up tube, gates timing belt/pulleys and water pump kit. I'm going to do a new oil pump, rear main seal. I know I'm missing alot. What else should I do while I have the engine out of the car before I install it?
 
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