[w0ng3r]

Can anyone find this for me

 

[ghulands]

You do this? If you DIY, I'd be willing to help. Just did mine but used the EVO-ALL to skip a lot of the wire digging...

awenthol,
Do you have any more pics of your install? I purchased the smy performance kit along with an EVO-ALL and TBSUBARU2 unit. I'll probably install it next week and am just trying to figure out where I should locate all the boxes.

Thanks,
g

 

[awenthol]

awenthol,
Do you have any more pics of your install? I purchased the smy performance kit along with an EVO-ALL and TBSUBARU2 unit. I'll probably install it next week and am just trying to figure out where I should locate all the boxes.

Thanks,
g

Replied to your PM. Definitely take the time to wire up everything you can, on bench. Was also a good opportunity to clip all the wires I didn't need.

Also, I DESTROYED my ignition switch, trying to pull the steering wheel lock out (it does not come out). Best bet is to find something to hold it in or do the recommended key cutting.

 

[Mn08dgm]

Wow that was a long read. So has someone done the advance key system with a turbo timer harness? If so is the hole system then plug and play for the most part?

 

[lookylookitzadam]

I did it with the TT harness. I wouldn't say plug and play but it eliminates all the trouble of cutting your ignition harness.

 

[lithiumus]

Hey guys,

Monkiboy, hows it goin?

Had my Advanced Keys entry and push start / remote start system along with EVO ALL for over a year now and finally made my attempt to install it. I didn't make one wire cut (cause I don't believe in doing that!).

For the Ignition switch, I used a Turbo Timer harness but I also noticed that the TT harness combined the IG1 and IG2 signals as well as the ST1 and ST2 signals so I properly separated them. To pull out the ignition keyring light ring, you have to carefully pry the tabs holding it in to remove it.

I had a lot of trouble with the immobilizer bypass and wrapping the wires, etc did not work reliably. I cut open my key and pulled the chip out and wrapped it. It would work on and off. I tested it by turning the Ignition to ON to see if the red security light would light up. If it did, I knew it wasn't working and if the light was off, it worked. Realized that the physical position and angle of the chip mattered. Maybe I was doing something wrong...

Only things left are to wire up the Clutch bypass and Neutral Safety switch. With a relay and access to the clutch pedal switch, the bypass should not be too bad.

Need some help on the neutral safety switch if anyone has done it already. The switch seems to be a simply open and closed contact switch but to access that, you need to be in the engine bay. The wire that comes back to the ECU is not a negative ground which the Advanced keys is expecting, it's actually a 12v when in gear and floats when out of gear. I'll have to verify if there is 12v even when the car is fully off or if the 12v is only available when the car is in the ON position.

There was a descent amount of wiring that needed to be done but I made no cuts to any wires except the harnesses that came with the Advanced keys and EVO ALL. I especially preserved the OEM harness wires and built Y connectors using OEM pins so I could simply pull the pins I needed to tap into, out of the OEM harnesses and plug them into my Y adapters and plugged my Y adapters into the OEM plugs. To restore back to OEM, just remove the Y adapter and plug the original pin back into the OEM plug.

I'll post up some pics when I have a chance.

 

[ghulands]

Which wire is the Neutral safety? I started to work on my install over the weekend but am waiting back for a reply from Advanced Keys on wiring the external relays up.

 

[lithiumus]

Im working with Brian as well from Advanced Keys. The wire is from the ECU. The 3rd / C connector. Ill verify when I get home but I believe its pin 31 but it gives a 12v when in gear. I believe it also needs IGN1 to give 12v. I have not checked or done any tests yet on the wire.

 

[ghulands]

I was having issues with the immobilizer not deactivating so it wouldn't turn on the accessory power or start the car. I traced it to a broken wire on the EVO-ALL above where I had soldered it on to the loom. I put a logic analyzer on the solder joint and was getting CAN messages, but up on the plug on the EVO-ALL, there was nothing. I'll run a new wire tonight and see how that goes.

 

[donkindi]

Hey guys, I just bought an Easy Go system for my 2011 sti. I was just wondering, has anyone had this thing die on them? Like in cold or hot weather does the remote start not work, or does the engine not start with the button or the remote start because it doesn't crank for long enough?> I just read these problems on the brz forum and was wondering if it's an isolated problem or if everyone's having it. Thanks.

 

[lithiumus]

Ive been running the advanced keys system for almost a year now. Rock solid. No issues at all. Dont know about the Easy Go...

 

[m00m00w4t3r]

how would it work if you have an aftermarket alarm system such as Viper?

 

[lithiumus]

how would it work if you have an aftermarket alarm system such as Viper?

If you already have an aftermarket that is hooked up to your BCM wires, adding an Advanced Key System should not be too hard but you would have to interface between the 2 and ensure that it accepts the Advanced Key RFID unlock signal. The Advanced keys system is a 2 part system. Keyless entry which is like an alarm with RFID to sense and unlock and the Push button start which also users the RFID to allow starting.

My suggestion if you already have an aftermarket alarm, is to just get the push start.

 

[lithiumus]

So I've been running the Advanced Keys system for over a year now and have not had any issues (that were not my own fault!) but there is a bit of a dilemma I'm up against. Really just a high class problem but a problem nonetheless...

One of things that I wanted to preserve when I embarked on this project was to ensure that things operated as OEM as possible. I used a Fortin EVO All to interface with the CAN bus so that I could retain the factory chirp when the doors locked and unlocked.

It works perfectly however the dilemma is that ALL locks and unlocks trigger the factory chirp. i.e. it does not distinguish between the remote initiating the lock/unlock which would invoke a chirp and parking light flash and the lock/unlock door buttons that do NOT invoke a chirp and parking light flash.

Why is this an issue? It's only an issue if you use the automatic locking and unlocking features where the Advanced Keys will lock the doors after ignition and when you step on the brake (usually when you are putting the car into gear). Also if you are dropping someone off and they unlock the doors with the button, Advanced Keys will lock them again shortly after.

When this happens, the alarm chirps and parking lights flash. I especially notice it when I drop someone off as I'm driving off in traffic and the car will chirp and flash the parking lights. It's less of an issue when I turn the car off since I'm usually parked.

The only alternatives are all or nothing. Either I disable the chirp and parking lights altogether via the OEM Subaru programming (using the Navi car menus) or just live with it.

It's definitely a high class problem but something I noticed over time to consider. I could probably come up with some elaborate circuit / relays that could sense that the car is running and divert the unlock command to the same wire that the unlock button uses but I won't bother...

 

[godzonda]

I have my kit install on my sti but I have couple issues.When I tried to remote start, it started but shut the system down after 2 seconds and repeat 3 times.The trunk release does not work. Is that a 5 wire trunk release? Should I use both white wire and red/brown wire? THX