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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to figure out if I am going to need rear camber bolts for my daily driver/autox car. I want to get the most out of my car performance wise, but I need the car to be steetable, in the rain and snow. Would getting rear camber bolts (and obviously setting negative camber) jeopardize stopping distance in rain/snow? Are they really needed for better handling in Autox? My current setup is: PDE Plates, Prodrive springs, Whiteline 27/20mm Front sway, Whiteline 22mm Adj. Rear sway. TIA.

-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
import111 said:
Stock rear camber is -1.4. How much camber do you want to run in the back?
I guess thats the question I have. Is that sufficient for my use? Would it be desireable for me to have more negative camber than stock? :confused:
 

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I have a set of ingalls in my rear now since the spring install, my target is going to be -1.0 in the rear for my alignment.
 

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^ I have heard of people getting around -2.5 in the fronts if you use the stock eccentric and an aftermarket bolt in the bottom hole.

For the rear, I put my bolt in the top hole for positive camber, well more positive camber, but my target is -1.0 (as opposed to -1.5 ish stock, and even more neg as a result of lowering)
 

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its reneeee said:
Sorry to hijack but how much neg camber could u get with camber bolts? / is it worth it performance wise?

the other aspect is worth a look as well. How much camber can you remove? While camber is really important in the front, its a little less important in the rear for our cars. Reducing camber in the rear will make the car rotate a little better. This is just another nifty trick for us who dont have coilovers or adjustable struts.

I'm with andrewSS here, for next season i plan to run -2 in the front and -1 in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow, looks like I have been mistaken! You guys are getting rear camber bolts to add POSITIVE camber? I thought you would want more negative in the rear, just like the fronts!?
 

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^ essentially... reducing your rear alignments camber is one way to promote a more loose nature, how much so depends on tastes and use.
 

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^ well one thing is, what sort of looseness is needed, for me and basically what I think any STi experiences is some entry push balance, then on exit you got good balance to oversteer... I want to figure out if adding entry looseness is more beneficial than any offset result of having my exit being even more loose... thus possibly making me slower...
 

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AndrewSS said:
^ well one thing is, what sort of looseness is needed, for me and basically what I think any STi experiences is some entry push balance, then on exit you got good balance to oversteer... I want to figure out if adding entry looseness is more beneficial than any offset result of having my exit being even more loose... thus possibly making me slower...

this is true, it will take some experimentation. I want neutrailty when on the gas (not hard, but on the gas) though a corner, understeet at almost no gas, Oversteer if i give too much gas. I want to get that neutrailty where i can control steering the car with the throttle, then I'll be done :)
 

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I had no idea there was so much negative camber in the rear stock. That seems kinda backwards considering there's so little in the front. I usually try to run -1 more in the front than back. What were Suby's thoughts on setting the car up like this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, so I guess I don't need to get camber bolts. I am just looking to do a performance alignment to seal up my suspension mods... I guess the next question will be how much neg camber do I want in the front? I have the PDE plates, so I should be able to get the camber to whatever I want for daily driving/racing. Some people say to get -2.5 to -3.0 in the front. Some say that's too much??
 

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^ If you are gonna be autocrossing a lot and/or trackdays you will find -2.5 to -3.0 as ideal, if not around -1.0 to -1.5 is plenty good for street driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Is running -2.5 to -3.0 not good in bad weather? (in terms of stopping power/traction) IIRC, someone told me that you increase your braking distance with more neg camber (in front)
 

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I have bolts on all four corners.

Running -2.1 in the front, and -1.8 in the rear. Front is maxed, rear can go to something stupid like 3.5 degrees.

My tire wear is perfect too, have about 8k maybe on these tires.
 

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docwyte said:
That's true. You'll also wear the holy hell out of your tires with that much camber.
Bleh... I havnt seen a whole lot of wear from running this much neg camber, its NOTHING like toe (as in how fast it wears em). And one thing to remeber is that atleast for me and my applications, without this much camber my outer shoulders would go MUCH MUCH faster than my inner shoulder from the neg camber. So its a trade off, just depending on your application pretty much determines which way to go ;)
 

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Yep, usage does matter. In a mostly daily driven car, anything over -1.5 is going to chew up the inside shoulders. I ran -2.5 front, -2 rear in my old M3 and it destroyed inside tire shoulders, and that was with toe zeroed out.
 
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