IW STi Forum banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

·
I Solve Problems
Joined
·
18,254 Posts
I thought this was going to be a track car? :lol:

The all GD's have piston issues, the new ones are more common because they happened on stock tunes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
There's what I want to do and what I can afford right now and compromises that have to be made in order to keep peace at home.

I had hoped for a trailer and a truck. Can't swing it with the wife right now. After bouncing off Armco barrier, like the NASCAR boys did today, she is not very supportive of a pure track car and all that it entails (and me taking things up another notch). I think I'm going to have to sneak up on competitive TT car status. I have to prove I can keep a car in one piece, too.
 

·
I Solve Problems
Joined
·
18,254 Posts
There's what I want to do and what I can afford right now and compromises that have to be made in order to keep peace at home.

I had hoped for a trailer and a truck. Can't swing it with the wife right now. After bouncing off Armco barrier, like the NASCAR boys did today, she is not very supportive of a pure track car and all that it entails (and me taking things up another notch). I think I'm going to have to sneak up on competitive TT car status. I have to prove I can keep a car in one piece, too.
That's understandable. I think the cheapest car you can get that fits your needs will be the way to go.

I still vote 05. You can do some basic track prep work, you may be slower then before as I think Safety should be your first mods this time round.

But all and all, you'll be building a good base for future funds. :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,013 Posts
For a GD you are looking at a base class of TTB in NASA. Given that, you have 19 points to play with, plus a couple of hundred pounds of weight. Will you be able to hang with Vettes? Probably not. Will you be competitive in that class? Yes.

Figure on building your car around coilovers such as AST's and Hoosier R6's in a 245/40-17. This will give you some extra points to play with since TTB is based on 265's. With those numbers, you can really start to round out the package quite nicely. This will gain you a great track car after only a few hours of work (brakes, fluids, exhaust if you need to swap the stocker back in there.)

Then comes weight reduction. Read the Anorexic STi journal. LOTS of good bits in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
I vote for you to buy a miata for $1k, drop about $4k in motor/suspension/brakes, and go balls out and never worry about stuffin it.

Meanwhile, buy an 05 STI and use it as a DD/AutoX car. Or go back and forth between the Miata and the STI on DD as they will likely get about the same gas mileage.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
968 Posts
I vote for you to buy a miata for $1k, drop about $4k in motor/suspension/brakes, and go balls out and never worry about stuffin it.

Meanwhile, buy an 05 STI and use it as a DD/AutoX car. Or go back and forth between the Miata and the STI on DD as they will likely get about the same gas mileage.
Who let this guy in ^? Where are you going to get a miata for 1k that isn't rusted out and going to crumple like a tin can when you stuff it into something?

I say go with the GD. It's a well understood chassis that you can get lots of parts for. There are tons of builds you can look at for ideas. When it comes to a track car start off with a cheap base since you're going to be replacing most of the stuff anyways and if something breaks it's not your DD. :tup:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Who let this guy in ^? Where are you going to get a miata for 1k that isn't rusted out and going to crumple like a tin can when you stuff it into something?
You can get a "Spec Miata" very inexpensively! However, they are not fast enough (for me). Only the very best were good competition in the curves and I would pass them on the straights.
As I said in post#20, "I was used to a certain level of performance with my Stage 2 '11. I was hoping for equal or more of a car that could keep up with Caymans, Lotuses, Vettes and the like. I held my own with many of these cars in "advanced" and don't want to go backwards and have to do constant point-bys at that level."

So, Miatas are great for an inexpensive, entry-level racer, but they would bore me. You just go flat out too much of the time, going, "come on baby!" I've been there-done that. At least the Subie can scare me a little, require hard braking and some moderating of the throttle.
I don't mean to disparage those that love to drive Miatas. I've recommended to many that they buy one for the street. I started out in lowly H production...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Just to be clear, will all my aftermarket suspension parts fit on a 2008-2010 GR STI hatchback?
Will they fit anything else that I might be interested in? I am not familiar with any other permutations that are available in the US that use the GR chassis and have the same basic engine.
What about the regular WRX? What makes its engine punier than the STi besides the boost? If I'm going to put an AP on it does it matter, and besides the DAVC is it lacking anything significant?

STI has SI Drive (knob) with 3 power response settings, and DCCD. Is this an option or available on a WRX?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
968 Posts
Just to be clear, will all my aftermarket suspension parts fit on a 2008-2010 GR STI hatchback?
I would think most of your stuff would fit without any issues. Just keep in mind the 2011 STIs had a slightly different front control arm setup.

Will they fit anything else that I might be interested in? I am not familiar with any other permutations that are available in the US that use the GR chassis and have the same basic engine.
What about the regular WRX? What makes its engine punier than the STi besides the boost? If I'm going to put an AP on it does it matter, and besides the DAVC is it lacking anything significant?

STI has SI Drive (knob) with 3 power response settings, and DCCD. Is this an option or available on a WRX?
The WRX is using a smaller turbo which makes it less powerful. Whether or not that is significant is up to you.

Some of the suspension stuff will swap over to the WRX but they are 5x100 so the hubs are different. The differentials in the STI are also a different type than the wrx. I can put the power down coming out of corners no problem in my STI however driving my friends stage 2 WRX I get wheelspin on the inside tires coming out of corners. I'm guessing the diffs in the wrx can't keep up. Although it could also be the STI coming out of the corners flatter and more evenly weighted.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
I appreciate the info. Did not know the hubs were smaller. Knew about the plastic intake, but not the turbo. The diff I knew was different, but you have confirmed that I don't want it.
So, I'm off in a different direction. What about the '08-'10 Hatchbacks? Anyone have anything negative to say about them and why I should stick to an '11 sedan versus getting a hatch? OK, the lower control arms are different on an '11. That hasn't stopped people from modifying the hatches and racing them.
Which is stiffer, lower drag, better weight distribution, etc. and is it enough of a difference to matter to me when I am not going to try and compete at the highest level of TT if and when I do them...

Some of you have been in both sedan and hatch and may have felt a difference in handling. All I know is my sedan handled great with all the Whiteline bushings, swaybars, coil-overs, rear suspension linkage pieces and R-888's on 17" wheels. Whether it is relevant or not, I felt I could keep up with spec Miatas and many other well-setup cars in cornering.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,337 Posts
sedan has lower drag(3 mph top speed bump), better weight bias in theory as the extra weight can mostly be accounted for by the extra few inches and wing which are in the back.(it is a few pounds heavier) Though its behind the rear axle so it creates what some people refer to as issues with "polar moment of inertia" though I dont know that is a proper use of the term.

I don't think it is enough difference to matter. By the time you get the money into the car to get it preped I cant imagine you are going to see any legitimate time made up on the track.

As far as the difference in feel 08 vs 11. It is quite noticable stock. But once you get everything set up its going to be the same as long as your deal with the springs/sways/bushings. I got a ride in a 2011 hatch that was stock when my car was stock. i didnt notice any difference, though my *** dyno isnt known for its spectacular calibration. :D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Are you saying you have a "dumb azz"?:D
Thanks for the input. This is exactly what I am looking for to help me make a decision.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
IMO the stock wing sucks, but it's better than nothing. Very heavy, the weight is in a bad spot and it doesn't create very functional downforce for cornering. If anything its like a weight at the end of a stick loading the rear outside tire for safety, but I would look to aftermarket if I was going to road race. Just something to consider.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Funny how, almost eight years later (!) I am racing the '08 hatch, fully gutted and caged at ST2 level. I now have two, identical low mileage '07 STi's. One's my DD @ 390 HP. I'm building a new track car in the other '07. It has TSS Fab subframes (everything underneath is tubular) JRZ racing shocks, all the SuperPro stuff, CF driveshaft, and possibly 500 WHP. The engine is not assembled yet. I have a 3576 with Tial 1.01 turbine housing for it and modified Full Race 1.5 exhaust. Rotated NA intake, without spacers and Cobb FMIC.
Then there's the de-stroker engined 818R kit car that languishes.
My '08 is at 470 and is quicker than the majority of HPDE/track day cars I come across in advanced. Loads of fun and it's been quite reliable.
 

Attachments

21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top