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Looking to pick this up for my 05' STi... Figure why not.

Looking to see how it still is for your vehicle? How has it held up?

. . . looks like a fun little mod that's pretty easy to install... just seeing for an update. Everyone is quick to say they love it but then years down the road really tell it for me.

Thanks,
-Nigel
Years down the road with a DSS. Never had any issues whatsoever.
App 145K on it in those years :) there has been one (exaclty one) person on this site who removed a PST - and while I'd buy DSS, I do believe there are more PST in cars today.
 

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What brand? Most of the balance issues are well behind us with this product or so I've seen.
Was planning on picking up the PST carbon drive shaft from RSD.

My 05' STi doesn't get driven like it used to, more of a garage queen.

Have catless TBE, pro-tuned stage2, 1 step colder plugs, upgraded fuel pump, lightened crank pulley. All mounts are group n, suspension has all race bushings, etc. Just wondering if this would be worth while.

It would be a no brainer if my drive shaft was on the way out. I'd have zero hesitation. But just reading some reviews on balance issues worries me or vibrations. It's like "don't mess with it if it's not broke" type of deal...lol

-Nigel
 

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Was planning on picking up the PST carbon drive shaft from RSD. , , ,
I'd have zero hesitation. But just reading some reviews on balance issues worries me or vibrations. It's like "don't mess with it if it's not broke" type of deal...lol

-Nigel
So buy DSS . . . Getting rid of the center bearing should get you less vibration than stock. Getting more is unacceptable. No one should have settled for that and it is why I have been so negative about PST. They should have made good any DS that was not balanced extremely well.
 

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Ok, need some advice here. I just installed my PST DS. I've read plenty about needing to spin the rear diff side to find the right connection if there's increased NVH. But I'm not necessarily getting NVH, I'm getting serious clunking with every DS rotation, which obviously increases with speed. And it's pretty violent. I went under the car to check everything and it all looks good. Everything is tightened down and looks fine. So WTF? Is this a balancing issue? I did worry about that because I saw two weights on one end and only one weight at the other end. But didn't think it would cause this severe clunking. I'm confused as to what the hell is causing this.
 

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I just installed my PST DS. . . . I'm getting serious clunking with every DS rotation, which obviously increases with speed. And it's pretty violent. I went under the car to check everything and it all looks good. Everything is tightened down and looks fine. So WTF? Is this a balancing issue?
Clunking it not a balancing issue. Either something is hitting, or loose or not mated properly. Also make sure the DS is flat where it bolts up. There's a center protrusion it needs to "mate" with. There an issue whatever it is.
 

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Clunking it not a balancing issue. Either something is hitting, or loose or not mated properly. Also make sure the DS is flat where it bolts up. There's a center protrusion it needs to "mate" with. There an issue whatever it is.
Yeah, I made sure it was mated up properly. Can the transmission side be inserted incorrectly? From what I read, I just spin and push (lightly) until it lines up and slides in, which is what I did. It definitely feels more in the front end than the rear, because I can feel the violence in the shifter.

Just to add some context, the shifting feels completely fine. There's no grinding or anything. Taking off and shifting to second felt completely normal, and reversing into the driveway felt normal as well. So I don't know what else it could be. Should I take the whole thing out and spin/reinsert the transmission side?
 

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You have a noise. You have to look for it.

Isn't there a guard under the rear u-joint? Have you removed it to see what is hitting?

Seriously it's highly unlikely the DS is that bad . . .
 

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You have a noise. You have to look for it.

Isn't there a guard under the rear u-joint? Have you removed it to see what is hitting?

Seriously it's highly unlikely the DS is that bad . . .
I did look. I've taken it apart and double-checked everything three times now (rotated the rear diff bolt up twice). That's the only reason I'm posting. I'm at a loss, and was just looking for additional insight from the community on what else it could be.
 

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Ok, I found the issue (I think). It looks as though it's rubbing the reverse lockout cable as it spins. The rubber protecting the cable is shredded, but the cable itself looks fine. I'm running a kartboy short shifter and raceseng reverse lockout, so I'm going to reinstall the stock stuff to see if that makes a difference.
 

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Just wanted to provide an update for anyone wondering.......or just as a warning/heads up. I took everything apart all the way up to the J-pipe to try and see as much as possible.

It turns out that my PST DS was hitting my kartboy shifter bushing (see image). I don't know if it is a one-time design flaw, or if the DS just doesn't play well with this bushing. But the absolute lack of clearance was bad enough it shaved one of the weights completely off the DS.

Going to send a video to RSD to see if they can address the issue with PST. Hopefully I'll get some resolution soon.
 

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Out of curiosity, can you accurately measure the shafts diameter? If so I'll measure my DSS.
 

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Just measured it. Looks like it's about 2.75". But the weight being placed exactly where it was, added just enough to the diameter to hit my shifter bushing. Odd though considering my stock DS is the same size and wasn't rubbing before this.
 

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Alright, for anyone wondering I figured out the fitment issue. Turned out to be my Group N transmission mount. As you can see in the picture, the Group N mount isn't just a more durable material, it is thicker than stock. As a result, the transmission was sitting up higher, which changed the geometry/angle of the driveshaft.

Therefore, if you want an aftermarket driveshaft, DO NOT run the Group N tranny mount (not sure if the same issue would pop up with other brands though).
 

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I've run my DSS with stock and Perrin mounts . . .
 

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have heard in the kartboy installs that you need to move the cable out of the way, or if its not pushed in all the way/ziptied correctly it can make contact too...but good to know in the group n...I was planning on doing iag mounts but still debating as am unsure about extra nvh...love my dss tho!
 

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have heard in the kartboy installs that you need to move the cable out of the way, or if its not pushed in all the way/ziptied correctly it can make contact too...but good to know in the group n...I was planning on doing iag mounts but still debating as am unsure about extra nvh...love my dss tho!
You do have to move the cable out of the way when you install the Kartboy shifter. I thought I had done a good enough job of doing that, but apparently not. But at least I was able to fix it when everything was pulled apart.
 

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Alright, for anyone wondering I figured out the fitment issue. Turned out to be my Group N transmission mount. As you can see in the picture, the Group N mount isn't just a more durable material, it is thicker than stock. As a result, the transmission was sitting up higher, which changed the geometry/angle of the driveshaft.

Therefore, if you want an aftermarket driveshaft, DO NOT run the Group N tranny mount (not sure if the same issue would pop up with other brands though).

That's interesting, I run PST drive shaft with group N tranny mount on my 2015 STI for the past 4 years with no issues.
 

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have heard in the kartboy installs that you need to move the cable out of the way, or if its not pushed in all the way/ziptied correctly it can make contact too
This is true any time you mkees with stuff in that area, any work at all that might free or move the cable.


...but good to know in the group n...I was planning on doing iag mounts but still debating as am unsure about extra nvh...love my dss tho!
Improved mount? Yes. I really like my Perrins, but they do transmit a good bit of NVH. For me they are perfect - right at the limit of what I want to tolerate. Most people wouldn't. My son has Group-Ns. Unlike everyone else he is unimpressed. He says a not nearly the stiffness of the Perrins but much of the NVH. Personally I look at em and I want something made differently than stock - not different, better.

Writing not to warn you. I am currently driving a borrowed GD WRX that has Torque Solution mounts in it. The ones I've writing I might try if I were to build another car. I was wrong. They are ridiculous - far more NVH than my Perrins. I nick-named the car "The mover and Shaker". An associate calls it the "Bone Shaker". Why is this a warning? Look at the Torque Solutions. Look at the IAG Street Series. They are both 75 Durometer. Are they absolutely 100% identical? I don't know. Could the IAG bushings have far thicker poly-urethane? I don't see how. Note I have not used em, but look.
 

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That's interesting, I run PST drive shaft with group N tranny mount on my 2015 STI for the past 4 years with no issues.
That is very odd. I mean, there is nothing else that was causing it. And once I changed it back to the stock mount, I was able to fit my wrench in between the DS and kartboy shifter bushing. It was a full 1/4" - 1/2" difference.

I bought a Cobb shifter bushing and will be installing that this weekend just to see if there is a difference between that and the Kartboy as far as clearance is concerned.

Out of curiosity, what other drivetrain mods do you have? Short shifter, bushings, etc. I'm extremely curious why your combo works, but mine didn't.
 
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