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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to order Ferodo DS2500 front and rear brake pads for my 05 STi on Saturday. I am also going to order some good brake fluid. Long story short, my brakes over heated on a mountain run very quickly 3-4 months ago, Subaru is jerking me around with replacing my pads under warranty, I need fad free braking for up coming events.

Question #1 - What website is the cheapest to get Ferodo 2500's?

Question #2 - What brake fluid should I buy and where is the cheapest site to get it? I always hear about Motul fluid, but, is there different grades of Motul, or is it all the same?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually, according to a website I just found, "Motul RBF 600 High Performance Brake Fluid, 593 degrees F dry and 420 degrees F wet boiling points, DOT 4, 500ml Bottle more >>>

ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid Developed for motorsports, the Super Blue brake fluid is perfect for your daily driven vehicle. With a boiling point of 536 deg. F, and a wet boiling point of 392 deg. F."

Looks like the Motul can take more heat. Cheapest I have found it for is $14.99 though, but I will pay $5 extra if it will take more heat.

Cheapest Ferodo 2500's I have found so far is from RCE. $207F/$95R
 

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I'd go with the ATE blue or gold.

The possibly reason for your brakes overheating are old fluid and also worn pads/rotor. Rotor isn't going to absorb as much heat anymore and thus more heat is going to have go somewhere else. Same with the pads, they won't absorb as much heat either. It has to go somewhere.

I still haven't overheated my brakes yet, even with my almost no brake pad material and almost no rotors. I'm replacing the fronts when get back from Germany. Rears are still good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
MeoW71 said:
I'd go with the ATE blue or gold.

The possibly reason for your brakes overheating are old fluid and also worn pads/rotor. Rotor isn't going to absorb as much heat anymore and thus more heat is going to have go somewhere else. Same with the pads, they won't absorb as much heat either. It has to go somewhere.

I still haven't overheated my brakes yet, even with my almost no brake pad material and almost no rotors. I'm replacing the fronts when get back from Germany. Rears are still good.
Hey Chris. Yea, I was just doing some reading and I think when my brakes went to nothing on Kitt Peak, it might have been the fluid over heating and not the pads at all. I might try replacing the fluid 1st (since it is wayyyyyy cheaper) and doing a mountain run to see what happens.
 

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May want to try installing some titanium shim plates behind your pads to help shield your calipers, and fluid from some of that heat. I'm not sure how effective it actually is, but I guess it can't hurt to try. I plan on buying a set and if all they do is keep the rubber seals in my calipers from melting I'm a happy boy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, for now, I am gonna try some Motul brake fluid to see what that does. I will be doing some fast mountain driving on the 30th of this month, so we will see if the fluid fixes the over heating issue. I am gonna try to get my pads replaced for free 1 more time in November. If Subaru still says they need to be thinner to be under warranty then I will have to buy some Ferodos so I will have good brakes for a track day in January.
 

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You can send the pads to Swain for a thermal coating on the back ;)
 

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Mykl said:
May want to try installing some titanium shim plates behind your pads to help shield your calipers, and fluid from some of that heat. I'm not sure how effective it actually is, but I guess it can't hurt to try. I plan on buying a set and if all they do is keep the rubber seals in my calipers from melting I'm a happy boy.
QuickSilverSTi said:
You can send the pads to Swain for a thermal coating on the back ;)
:confused: :confused: :confused:

you all seem really really concerned about heat in the pads. While i know that a 3700lb car stopping from a 130+ but there is no need for titanium backing plates or swain coating.

if you are taking your car to the track, make SURE you have pads that handle the heat. I have seen pads glaze over, it does not look fun. But i can tell you that there are things you can do to help heat dissipation.. like removing the dust sheild from the knuckles or having brake ducts (the RCEs are great!). All of this will help.. but mainly you just need a good track setup.
 

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spazegun2213 said:
:confused: :confused: :confused:

you all seem really really concerned about heat in the pads. While i know that a 3700lb car stopping from a 130+ but there is no need for titanium backing plates or swain coating.

if you are taking your car to the track, make SURE you have pads that handle the heat. I have seen pads glaze over, it does not look fun. But i can tell you that there are things you can do to help heat dissipation.. like removing the dust sheild from the knuckles or having brake ducts (the RCEs are great!). All of this will help.. but mainly you just need a good track setup.
It's not the pads that I'm thinking about when I recommend titanium shims, it's the fluid. If you put some kind of insulation between the pad and the caliper it *should* keep some heat away from the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, I got my Motul rbf600 today. I got 2 500ml bottles. Is that gonna be enough to fill the system? How much is needed to fill the system? I read that you can pull the ABS fuse and turn the key and the fluid in the ABS system will bleed out also. Is that correct?
 

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import111 said:
Ok, I got my Motul rbf600 today. I got 2 500ml bottles. Is that gonna be enough to fill the system? How much is needed to fill the system? I read that you can pull the ABS fuse and turn the key and the fluid in the ABS system will bleed out also. Is that correct?
I would get another .5L bottle just to be safe. However, it should only take about a 1L to flush the system.

as for bleeding brakes thats what the How-To section is for:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38731&highlight=bleed+brakes
 

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import111 said:
Thanks for the link. I didn't find anything about the ABS fuse, but there is a lot of good info in there.

dont worry about the ABS (i never do anything about it on bleeds). if you want to cycle the system, bleed the first two calipers, and turn the car on, pump the pedal a few times, and then continue with the last two calipers.

thats if you want to mess with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I did the bleed today. The old stock fluid with 25K miles on it and over 20 hard mountain runs on it came out clear????? Not sure how that happened. There were no air bubbles either. Now I have a mix of stock fluid and Motul rbf600 in my system. Everything feels fine so far. Next Saturday I will be able to test for over heating again to see if I fixed the problem.
 

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I am switching between super blue and castrol. the first time I changed my fluid in my '05 with castrol I couldn't tell when the old stuff was out. Now i can see between the blue and clear. It is much easier and Castrol has high boiling points for cheap.
 

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import111 said:
I am going to order Ferodo DS2500 front and rear brake pads for my 05 STi on Saturday. I am also going to order some good brake fluid. Long story short, my brakes over heated on a mountain run very quickly 3-4 months ago, Subaru is jerking me around with replacing my pads under warranty, I need fad free braking for up coming events.

Question #1 - What website is the cheapest to get Ferodo 2500's?

Question #2 - What brake fluid should I buy and where is the cheapest site to get it? I always hear about Motul fluid, but, is there different grades of Motul, or is it all the same?

Thanks
Regarding the warranty.. You had hot brakes and you wanted the pads replaced? Why? There's nothing wrong with the pads after they get hot. Subaru's not screwing around with you, theres just no reason to replace them. Let them cool and they're good to go.
And what kind of overheating did you have? With pad fade you'll have a firm pedal but the car just wont slow down. As opposed to boiling the fluid where the pedal goes all the way to the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
When my brakes over heated, I can't remember if the pedal remained firm or not. I remember a nasty smell begining, then my brakes didn't work as good, then they stopped working at all and I had to use the E-brake. All of that happened in a 3-5 minute period.
 
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