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Discussion Starter #1
So really I'm just looking for some opinions from experienced owners of the car, I'm planning on buying the car as fun project/me time car. I have a daily driver for work and everything else. The car has a NEW ej257 2.5 L motor, forged internals, new turbo, new piping, fuel system, injectors, spark plugs, the whole 9 yards, running 24 psi. All of which were built and tuned by EcuTek. What I'm wondering is if this amount of boost is gonna be too volatile on the engine. The car made about 461 whp at 18 lbs, and I have yet to see a dyno-sheet from the owner with the boost turned up to 24. If 24 is too volatile, then I wouldn't mind getting it tuned back down to 16-18psi if it increases the longevity of parts on the car. Please let me know if what the car is tuned to rn is viable and reliable, I just don't want to have to buy a new engine if I try to speed up getting onto the highway.


I'm really sorry if this post is not in the right thread, I'm really trying to get more into the car community and Subaru community. I know the Ej257 is a reliable engine when properly maintained, but I overall would like to hear what people with experience with these engines have to say. Thanks in advance!
 

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GD fun car - awesome! ! ! !

EEcuTek in the US? Not so great - but adding an Accessport and retuning will only cost about $1100.

Engine: not really enough info and you can't provide it no matter what. I'ts a gamble Forged internals are a good sign, and could easily handle the HP. Expect short lived life on the pistons of they are 2618 alloy - but they could be 4032. I'ts a gamble.

467AWHP coud be real . . . but not so likely at 18PSI. Perhaps at 24 PSI. but the dyno number has little to do with why or whynot your should or shouldn't own this car. BTW 467AWHP is a lot of power in that car ! ! ! :)

If you don't blow it up, turning it down isn't going to greatly extend life if it is street driven and you don't flog it to death At that power level yuou can break stuff if you try! . Leave it at what it can easily do - essentially what it can do without pushing timing.

The reall questions are:
What do you expect and what effort will you put into it.
What is the car really like?
Is it a decent deal for what it is?
 
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Buying a built sti is a gamble. There are some good ones and some bad ones. Like stated above the life span of built blocks usually arent the same as OEM. I think when looking into a built car like this, you really need to see all the paper work, reciepts, and parts list. Like literally everything from start to finish, atleast thats how i would go about even considering a car like this. Of course i would recommend doing a compression/leakdown test as a final step prior to purchase.

Is it really a project car if its already been built? Just so you know, even thought the engine has been rebuilt to handle more power, it doesnt mean it or the car wont break down. Realiabilty usually goes out the window once you get to this point with this kind of car. Although this may be a weekend car for you, are you ready/willing to deal with it once problems arise?

I dont want to be a downer, just want to make sure you're aware. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Buying a built sti is a gamble. There are some good ones and some bad ones. Like stated above the life span of built blocks usually arent the same as OEM. I think when looking into a built car like this, you really need to see all the paper work, reciepts, and parts list. Like literally everything from start to finish, atleast thats how i would go about even considering a car like this. Of course i would recommend doing a compression/leakdown test as a final step prior to purchase.

Is it really a project car if its already been built? Just so you know, even thought the engine has been rebuilt to handle more power, it doesnt mean it or the car wont break down. Realiabilty usually goes out the window once you get to this point with this kind of car. Although this may be a weekend car for you, are you ready/willing to deal with it once problems arise?

I dont want to be a downer, just want to make sure you're aware. :)

You bring up some very good points, I think my intentions with the car is to be able to learn how to work on and maintain a car of this nature properly. I realize it's going to be tedious and more expensive to maintain, but I think it presents me with a real opportunity to step my game up. From what I can tell, the owner has kept track of all paperwork and receipts for parts and labor, but you're very right in the fact that I should know what I'm getting into before I do it. I might be getting a little over-excited for this car and that may be swaying my judgment. I've always liked this model and always wanted one, and I may be letting that get in the way of making a good purchase.

Thank you for the advice on getting a compression/leakdown test and the paperwork in order before I consider buying this car. Those are really helpful tips.

So say that everything turns out good and the car is actually well built and there is a paper trail for everything, what parts would I look at replacing first? Really I'm asking what are the engines fatal flaws that I'm gonna have to look out for. I know Ringland failure is a possibility depending on how I drive the car, I know head gaskets can be an expensive pain in the ass, like said above, pistons will probably fail too, but what else will I really run into? And if I drive this car like a sain human (not WOTing everywhere I go) how often will I run into problems?

Thanks again in advance for the advice and help.
 

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Explaining what I wrote, and commenting, not arguing w Jay

I think when looking into a built car like this, you really need to see all the paper work, reciepts, and parts list. Like literally everything from start to finish, atleast thats how i would go about even considering a car like this. . . .
Engine: not really enough info and you can't provide it no matter what.
Even the full parts list won't tell you everything you want to know. You want to know that it was built properly, and the only way you'll even have a clue about this is if you are sure a very reputable shop built it - and even then mistakes are made though it's odds of beeing good are far better.

it doesnt mean it or the car wont break down. Realiabilty usually goes out the window once you get to this point with this kind of car. Although this may be a weekend car for you, are you ready/willing to deal with it once problems arise.
Things I've written before but didnt: A GD is an old car. It will need real maintenance, built, rebuilt cared for or otherwise. The more mile and the harder it was driven the more work. But it is old and will need work unless it was in a garage and not driven. and even then it may need hoses and gaskets. I think that If semonen is going to keep a GD, somehere near between 150K and 200K it is cost effective to tear it apart and replace all of em. It's not really cost effective to keep most of em past 200K though I am on my second GD that I've DD app 100 mi/ work day. The curent modertely powered built GD has almost 260K on it and I am doing my best to DD it till 300K which I will reach next year. The market value of clean GDs, and what I've written above is the reason I'll likley end up in a VA. I am watching for built GDs which I will be picky about, and used VAs. A body with a blown engine might be ideal.
 
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