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Heh I just bought my 06 STI also.... Stealer told me it was unmodified, but I just got an oil change and the mechanic said it may have been modified :(

I bet you your car was modified, I would check the turbo vacuum lines. Hopefully your turbo is in good shape, it sounds like if you're making more boost in higher gears your turbo should be fine. It's probably teh vacuum lines that were re-installed wrong and maybe messing up your turbo actuator. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Does the car make any weird noises when your driving, around the turbo area. Cracked waste gate? Would be pretty noticable though.

What boost gauge do you have, and how do you have it hooked up?

ive never had a turbo car before so i dont really know what sounds are normal and what arent. i do hear airflow near the turbo area as i rev the car up. almost as if its leaking somewhere. but then again theres tons of air running through that turbo and what not so wouldnt that be normal? its not like crazy loud but u can hear it while inside the car driving. that normal?


and the boost gauge was in the car when i got it. it says prosport on it. and i have no clue how its hooked up. is there a way to know if its leaking or off somehow?
 

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ive never had a turbo car before so i don't really know what sounds are normal and what aren't. i do hear airflow near the turbo area as i rev the car up. almost as if its leaking somewhere. but then again there's tons of air running through that turbo and what not so wouldn't that be normal? its not like crazy loud but u can hear it while inside the car driving. that normal?


and the boost gauge was in the car when i got it. it says prosport on it. and i have no clue how its hooked up. is there a way to know if its leaking or off somehow?
Well its normal to hear intake noise inside the car depending on your setup.

And I have a prosport boost gauge as well, try to find the clear tubing that goes from the gauge to the BPV/BOV. Theirs a firewall hole behind the brake pedal, look at that and see if its going through there. If it is, then pop your hood and find it from where the firewall is, kinda hard to see because of the brake booster. And just follow it to where its hooked up. Make sure its not cut any where along the line. You might be hitting 14-15psi, but the gauge is only reading 10psi because its leaking.

If you don't find anything, then I guess you can take the turbo out and check the waste gate, might be cracked. Meaning your leaking exhaust through it, therefore preventing you from being able to hit target boost. (Not enough exhaust to spin the turbine wheel which spins the compressor wheel, to create 14-15psi) But im sure that would make some really weird noises.

Take some pictures of your turbo and the area around it. As well as your gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well its normal to hear intake noise inside the car depending on your setup.

And I have a prosport boost gauge as well, try to find the clear tubing that goes from the gauge to the BPV/BOV. Theirs a firewall hole behind the brake pedal, look at that and see if its going through there. If it is, then pop your hood and find it from where the firewall is, kinda hard to see because of the brake booster. And just follow it to where its hooked up. Make sure its not cut any where along the line. You might be hitting 14-15psi, but the gauge is only reading 10psi because its leaking.

If you don't find anything, then I guess you can take the turbo out and check the waste gate, might be cracked. Meaning your leaking exhaust through it, therefore preventing you from being able to hit target boost. (Not enough exhaust to spin the turbine wheel which spins the compressor wheel, to create 14-15psi) But im sure that would make some really weird noises.

Take some pictures of your turbo and the area around it. As well as your gauge.

ok man thanks for the help... imma check the gauge line and see if i can figure out anything. i will put up some pics tomorrow.... also how can i tell if this is the stock vf39 turbo? possibly they put a smaller turbo in it? is pullin the turbo out a pretty easy job or does it take a while?
 

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ok man thanks for the help... imma check the gauge line and see if i can figure out anything. i will put up some pics tomorrow.... also how can i tell if this is the stock vf39 turbo? possibly they put a smaller turbo in it? is pullin the turbo out a pretty easy job or does it take a while?
Look on the front of the turbo and see if you can see IHI on it. I can't remember if it says vf-39 right next to that or not. But the stock turbo is an IHI Vf-39. Its pretty simple to remove.

Here's a how to on removing the turbo...No big deal.

http://www.scoobymods.com/turbo-install-swap-pictures-t7641.html?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
i'm pretty sure its a stock bov.... but i took some pics but i cant figure out how to put them on here. it wont let me.....
 

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Discussion Starter #28
also its throwing a code. and when the cel light comes on the cruise starts blinking too... does that mean the car is in limp mode? but when i reset the ecu or clear the code i'm still only gettin 10 psi. and within a day or 2 the cel comes back on and cruise starts blinkin again....
 

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also its throwing a code. and when the cel light comes on the cruise starts blinking too... does that mean the car is in limp mode? but when i reset the ecu or clear the code i'm still only gettin 10 psi. and within a day or 2 the cel comes back on and cruise starts blinkin again....
Well whats the code?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
i cant remember... but it said catalyst threshold somethin somethin.... pretty sure its just for the downpipe... but it also said there was a code on the way but hasn't been thrown yet... dont really know what that means... thats just what they told me
 

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If the ignition advance multiplier drops below 0.35 then the boost control is disabled and it just runs wastegate spring pressure.

Get a laptop and see if the iam is indeed below 0.35 then reset the ecu and it should come back up.

I believe you can also remove the negative batter terminal and press the brake for ten or so seconds then reconnect. That should reset the ecu. Go for another spin and see if the boost comes back up.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
i need an accessport to do that right? cuz i dont have one.
i already tried just resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery. and still only 10 psi
 

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I think you can buy one of those Open ECU cables and software for $99 and map what your car is doing. I'm still thinking you have a vacuum line routed wrong somewhere!
 

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OKAY! SO.....

long story short, i bought an 06 sti in april
and thought that everything was peachy until i got my accessport
and found out that my car was only boosting 10 psi, this is because the wastegate is spring loaded to 10 psi so your solenoid is not working the way its supposed to. I have never racked my brain so hard to try and fix a problem..boost leak, turbo housing cracked blah blah blah, and it came down to the dumbest f****** thing ever. Before you do anything or go spend money on
anything you need to check these few things:

1. the vaccum line that runs off your compressor housing to your wg actuator and "t"s off to go to the solenoid should have the restrictor pill in the line on the COMPRESSOR SIDE of the t fitting. If its not on this side, the solenoid will not function properly and you will only get 8-10lbs (this is what was wrong with my car)
2. that the lines are run properly to your solenoid as there are 2.

here's a helpful diagram

CobbTuning.com - How Subaru’s Factory Boost Control System Works

as far as the CEL code, catalyst temp code or whatever, could be because of your downpipe, however, odly enough if your fuel cap isnt tight (3+ clicks) along with an evap leak code it will sometimes throw this code too, dunno why, just will. Codes don't take their time to "arrive", once a value being metered by the ECU exceeds a preset threshold a code is "thrown" to alert the driver. Your cruise control is automatically disabled by the ECU once a code is entered, that's just what it does..

I think for you, it would be beneficial to get an accessport and beyond that, it sounds to me like you need to sit down and do some research and learn everything you can about your new sti. They are wonderful cars if you have taken the time to educate yourself as to the ins and outs of the car and understand how it works and why it works the way it does. These forums are a great way to learn these things, but before you go and start getting things like boost controllers and all that s***, take the time to understand why or why not these parts are a good modification for your car. I remember when I first bought my sti, I did 2+ years of research while I was saving the money for it and the first time someone asked me why I wasn't running a BOV on it, they were dumbfounded when I explained it to them because they didn't know f all about MAF sensors and a pull through metering setup.

Learn your car before you f*** it up.

if you have any troubles you are welcome to pm me and i'll be happy to help you out.
 

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OP, you said you were going to get tuned "next week," which was last week. Did you do this? If not, then you shouldn't be driving the car. It sounds like you have a catless downpipe and no tune for it. You need to do what you said you were going to do and get tuned or, at the very least, order an Access Port and flash a stage 2 map. There are other, cheaper options out there for you to self-tune, but the AP is relatively safe and literally plug-and-play.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Ok so I got a boost controller and an access port. Should I just throw a stage one map on it? Or stage 2? Or what? Or do I need to take it to my tuner? It doesn't seem too complicated. Also I lost the chord to hook the access port up to the computer... Do I really need that? And where can I buy that chord at?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
ok so i plugged in the accessport and went to put a stage 2 map on it and it literally took like 30 seconds. and its suppose to take like half hour or more. and it said it was done in like 30 seconds. does that mean it already had a stage 2 map on it or what?
 

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What makes you think it's supposed to take longer? Are you sure it was only 30 seconds? I've experienced 3-5 minutes for an initial flash, but I wasn't timing, so my number is just a guess.

A few things:

1. You don't need a boost controller at stage 2.

2. For the proper map, follow the direction on cobbtuning.com. They're very simple.

3. The cord used to connect the AP to your OBD-2 port is the same one used to connect your AP to your computer. One end is USB and the other is USB-Mini.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
well it also said in the manual that it would tell u to turn off the car and turn back on when it was done and it never did this. it never went into the mode where it was actually loading data on. it just said initializing for like 15 to 30 seconds and then said done..

and it says in the manual there is another cord for the computer that i don't have.

also.. u say u dont need a boost controller at stage 2. so am i better off taking it off? or will there be any gains to leaving it on?
 

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Did you ever check the hoses coming from the turbo and wastegate to the wastegate solenoid? Confirmed that the pill is in the right hose at the right location?

Go back to start. Do not collect $200.
 
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