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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Truly the 'gold standard' in more ways than one, the Ohlins Road and Track coilovers have long been associated with quality and performance. I was looking for a new coilover set for my 2015+ Subaru STI build that would be able to handle track duty without yet stepping into the Moton or JRZ realm and the Ohlins Road and Track coilovers seemed to check all of the boxes. As I'm sure many know, the Ohlins coilovers come disassembled from the factory and require a bit of patience to properly pull together. This includes trimming down the dust boot and placing each piece of the puzzle into the appropriate spot. The fun then begins in torquing everything to spec and dialing in the spring preload and ride height.

The Ohlins coilovers feature independent height adjustable bodies that operate separately from the spring pre load perches. Compressing the spring 2mm on all 4 corners is the recommended setting from the factory. Once preload has been set, you can then easily adjust the height to the desired drop. It's definitely worth noting that the Ohlins rear coilovers will be the limiting factor in how low you go. I went ahead and set these on the lowest setting which left roughly a finger gap from fender to wheel with 35 tires. The front was then adjusted to match for a balanced stance. If you are looking for a coilover that will allow you to tuck your tires, this is not the one for you.

Once the coilovers are assembled, installing is as routine as any other set. Damping was set to 10 clicks from full firm which is right in the middle of the range. Real world driving felt incredibly smooth with bumps being less noticeable than the stock setup. The STI felt more compliant and responsive with turn in being greatly improved. I was pleasantly surprised with how the car felt on the street, but being predominantly track focused, the real test was yet to come.

After getting an alignment and adjusting front camber a bit, I was able to get the STI out to Buttonwillow CW13 for some initial testing. Damping was increased to 4 clicks from full firm which was instantly felt. The result was firmer feedback with even greater turn in, however, the ride was still compliant and non harsh/bouncy. You could easily drive with this setting on a well maintained street and not become overly annoyed. I was able to get in four 20 minute sessions with times improving throughout the day. The Ohlins coilovers performed amazing through the high and low speed technical sections of Buttonwillow and handled the abuse of the berms with no problem. S-sections and elevation changes were no issue with these coilovers rebounding quickly. Theres definitely still some optimizations we'll be making with the damping, spring rates, and sway bar for our next outing but I'm certainly excited with the potential of the Ohlins.

I've attached some pictures to show the beauty of these coilovers. The quality almost makes installing difficult. I'm happy to answer any questions.

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They are excellent. Probably my favorite mod on mine. Mine definitely rides stiffer than stock, even with the valves all the way open, but mine are sprung and valved stiffer than normal ohlins for more track focus. Where are you running your camber for track use?
 

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The car is currently at -2.9 in the front and -1.5 in the rear. I'll probably stick with this for another track day or two before testing out a more aggressive front camber.
 

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They are excellent. Probably my favorite mod on mine. Mine definitely rides stiffer than stock, even with the valves all the way open, but mine are sprung and valved stiffer than normal ohlins for more track focus. Where are you running your camber for track use?
Glad you like them Chris! Your Track Package has more compression and rebound to get the adjustment into a usable range for more track oriented use, even at full soft they still work really well on rough tracks like Reno Fernly, SIR, etc.. Saw you ordered a RS-30 We'll get that shipped out right after xmas! Easiest way to save 20lbs off of the nose of the car!

The car is currently at -2.9 in the front and -1.5 in the rear. I'll probably stick with this for another track day or two before testing out a more aggressive front camber.
That's about right camber wise, depends on tires and other and supporting mods of course and the track. We typically run SPL LCAs in the rear to get camber back under control and you may find a little more in the rear is helpful.



The Whiteline Roll Center/ Bump Steer kit is really helpful too.



We've spent the better part of a decade developing our custom valved and sprung Ohlins Track Package, which significantly improves the handling over the off the shelf Ohlins R&T Coilovers through proper spring rates and appropriate valving. Our track package also allows for much more aggressive tires. I ran 285/30/18 BFG R1s, 295/30/18 Hoosier R6s and any 275/35/18 r-comp I could get my hands on (R888, R6, etc.. ) in my 11' STI sedan.



Throw in some RCE swaybars and you'll be dialed suspension wise :tup:

 

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The car is currently at -2.9 in the front and -1.5 in the rear. I'll probably stick with this for another track day or two before testing out a more aggressive front camber.
You think you'll need even more aggressive than that? I run mine at -2.5F/-1.75R, and it's doing pretty well so far (though I am going to a stickier set of track tires next season - either NT01s or Maxxis RC1s, so we'll see if I need to change that). I didn't want to go too crazy on mine though just because I do also drive it around on the street, and I'd hate to wear my normal street tires too much on the inside edge.

Joshua: yeah, I really like the track behavior of these. I tend to run them one click from full stiff at High Plains, and 2-3 clicks from full stiff at Pueblo Motorsports Park (HPR was recently repaved, so it's a noticeably smoother track), and I run both front and rear sways at full stiff and I really like it. Rear end is noticeably easier to rotate, and I don't have to trail brake like mad into every corner any more, though the car definitely still likes a bit of trailbraking. I still haven't done rear LCAs and the roll center kit, but they are on my list for next track season. I'm actually not too worried about the rear camber (mine is about -1.75 on the stock ones), but saving a couple pounds of unsprung weight and eliminating flex and play from the rear suspension is always nice. I'm trying to get rid of as much weight from the car as I can without ruining it as a daily driver (as you also can tell with that lightweight battery).

One interesting thing I did notice - I have to be a bit careful rolling on the throttle at turn 11 at High Plains now. Stock, I could pretty much mash my foot to the floor right at the apex and the boost would come on nicely up the hill, but now, with the stiffer suspension, I'll actually just spin the front inside wheel a bit if I get on the gas too hard/early. Dialing in a bit of center diff helps (since it pushes a bit more power to the rear when the front starts to lose grip), but the thing that feels least abusive to the car is just to roll on the gas more gently so I'm not at full boost until the wheel has a bit more weight on it. I'm a bit curious if an earlier car (with the mechanical center diff) wouldn't have had this problem, but I don't think it's slowing me down much on my corner exit regardless.
 

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Might try softening the front bar and dialing the valving back to get some traction back on the front inside tire. This of course will make the car rotate a little easier so be ready :)

Joshua: yeah, I really like the track behavior of these. I tend to run them one click from full stiff at High Plains, and 2-3 clicks from full stiff at Pueblo Motorsports Park (HPR was recently repaved, so it's a noticeably smoother track), and I run both front and rear sways at full stiff and I really like it. Rear end is noticeably easier to rotate, and I don't have to trail brake like mad into every corner any more, though the car definitely still likes a bit of trailbraking. I still haven't done rear LCAs and the roll center kit, but they are on my list for next track season. I'm actually not too worried about the rear camber (mine is about -1.75 on the stock ones), but saving a couple pounds of unsprung weight and eliminating flex and play from the rear suspension is always nice. I'm trying to get rid of as much weight from the car as I can without ruining it as a daily driver (as you also can tell with that lightweight battery).

One interesting thing I did notice - I have to be a bit careful rolling on the throttle at turn 11 at High Plains now. Stock, I could pretty much mash my foot to the floor right at the apex and the boost would come on nicely up the hill, but now, with the stiffer suspension, I'll actually just spin the front inside wheel a bit if I get on the gas too hard/early. Dialing in a bit of center diff helps (since it pushes a bit more power to the rear when the front starts to lose grip), but the thing that feels least abusive to the car is just to roll on the gas more gently so I'm not at full boost until the wheel has a bit more weight on it. I'm a bit curious if an earlier car (with the mechanical center diff) wouldn't have had this problem, but I don't think it's slowing me down much on my corner exit regardless.
 

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Do you have any popping noise when going over bumps at low speed (10km/h-15), from the front only? Thanks.
 

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If everything is installed properly you shouldn't. It's possibly with high miles to have some play in the mono-balls in the camber plates. These are replaceable, if you need a set shoot me a message. It's not something we sell in our web store. Check the swaybar endlinks up front. Otherwise just make sure everything tight and installed properly.

Cheers,
Josh

Do you have any popping noise when going over bumps at low speed (10km/h-15), from the front only? Thanks.
 

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I tried retighten and still making noise. I dont think it was assemble incorrectly it wasnt making noise before.
I probably will send my front in for warranty work.

If everything is installed properly you shouldn't. It's possibly with high miles to have some play in the mono-balls in the camber plates. These are replaceable, if you need a set shoot me a message. It's not something we sell in our web store. Check the swaybar endlinks up front. Otherwise just make sure everything tight and installed properly.

Cheers
Josh

Do you have any popping noise when going over bumps at low speed (10km/h-15), from the front only? Thanks.
 

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If it's making noise over bumps, make sure you have enough preload that the spring isn't going completely slack over the bump, and also check the tightness of the top nut on the front shocks (not the ones mounting the camber plate to the car, the one mounting the shock to the camber plate). Both of those can cause noise.
 

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I purchase thru an authorized dealer in canada. I would say I have like 1800miles on the coilovers
What does your dealer say? I haven't seen a properly installed set of Ohlins do what you're describing. We sell and install a lot of these. Have they been doing this since the install?

If it's making noise over bumps, make sure you have enough preload that the spring isn't going completely slack over the bump, and also check the tightness of the top nut on the front shocks (not the ones mounting the camber plate to the car, the one mounting the shock to the camber plate). Both of those can cause noise.
Yep :tup:
 

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What does your dealer say? I haven't seen a properly installed set of Ohlins do what you're describing. We sell and install a lot of these. Have they been doing this since the install?



Yep :tup:




The dealer to me they could help send it into Ohlin USA. there is not rebuild in Canada
There was no noise when I picked up the car from the installed. The Coilover was very quite from what i remembered. The noise started about 3 weeks ago. I've recheck it again today, top bolts torque to spec, spring ring tight. end link no play, preload okay.But noise is still there. I have a friend sat in my car today. He described the noise I'm hearing as popping noise :notsure: . lol
But I'm 100% sure, when I had them installed it was like very quite same as stock if not better.
 

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The only authorized Ohlins R&T rebuilders in North America are PSI in the Cali and Ohlins, NC.

With 1800 miles you def don't need a rebuild. I'll pull a kit off the shelf and post a few pics today. There isn't much that can make noise in there..

The dealer to me they could help send it into Ohlin USA. there is not rebuild in Canada
There was no noise when I picked up the car from the installed. The Coilover was very quite from what i remembered. The noise started about 3 weeks ago. I've recheck it again today, top bolts torque to spec, spring ring tight. end link no play, preload okay.But noise is still there. I have a friend sat in my car today. He described the noise I'm hearing as popping noise :notsure: . lol
But I'm 100% sure, when I had them installed it was like very quite same as stock if not better.
 
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