Sorry about the delay, I kept forgetting everyday to grab a pic, haha.
The ABS cover fits perfectly. The only thing I did was enlarge the two holes they line up to be able to fit the size of clip I wanted to use.
The battery cover required some trimming around the headlight bracket. You wouldn't need to do that if you don't mind it sitting underneat the bracket, but that would be annoying to remove/reinstall when you want to go check the battery. In order to make it user friendly, I opted to trim as far back as I can to clear the bracket and to make sure it still looked OEM. Secondly, you need to drill two holes in your frame big enough for the clips you're using. The attachment point at the fuse box clips right in like OEM.
Excellent if I keep my car I have been wanting these to clean up the bay a bit, and dangit man I forget where I came across the thread but I was reading that a recent member had a leaking 15 rack same spot I believe that most of ours leak from, I will be danged to find it now though......my fingers are fricken crossed it was a one off......anyway thanks for the pics car looks killer
It's been a while, and the car is now perfectly tuned. It seems all issues are sorted out, except one that I'll go into later. It's a long one, I'm sorry, lol.
This entire post is dedicated to Shinji. He's such a great person. He helped me out significantly throughout this process. This car is now ShinjiTuned, and probably will continue to be tuned by Shinji going forward.
Check him out on Facebook @ShinjiTuned1
Let's start from the last post. To summarize, my previous tuner was saying I had fueling issues or a bad O2 sensor. The O2 sensor and AFR sensor were replaced, with OEM sensors, two years ago when I installed my DP. I never thought it was the O2 sensor since my AF Sensor 1 and my Wideband values matched within +\-0.1. Obviously, I was skeptical. Fueling was recorded and vacuum hoses were checked. Everything looked good to me. This is when I asked for advice on my last post and Shinji came forward in a big way.
The first thing we did was review the logs. There were some minor flaws in the tune. The last tuner was playing it risky knowing the current unknown issues I was having. I brought that feedback to my tuner, in a very nice way through questions instead of demanding changes. They basically refused to try anything I was looking into or refuted and countered anything I brought forward. From there, they basically told me my car not tuneable due to mechanical issues. They offered no other help whatsoever.
I went back to Shinji with this info. He offered to help me out to prove some flaws. We did some tuning changes only, and most issues went away except one we couldn't figure out. It was really weird. It looked like I had a boost leak or a vacuum leak or a bad FPR or FP. It was really hard to pinpoint where to look, but we definitely confirmed right away that my O2 sensor wasn't the issue at all. I'm glad I didn't waste money on it based on the previous tuner's random advice. I went back to them to ask for a refund, and they refused even though I was still within my 30 days tuning period. There's not much I can do being in a different country 15hrs away. I took the hit and put it off as a lesson learned. From the experience I had for my Stage 2 tune, I should have never went back to them.
Now back to the story. Basically, the car ran great, was tuned great, but was severely underpowered to make it safe running a very high WGDC and lower MAF scaling than usual. We had three symptoms to look into. AFLs (AF Learning 1 values) out of range while cruising, while idling, and we had shift knock when running through the gears causing the DAM to drop. The most puzzling part was that single WOT logs (2k to redline) were always very clean from the beginning.
I first looked into the fueling side. I sent a note to Aeromotive. They were very fast to reply with advice and confirmed my knowedge of the system. They analyzed my mechanical setup and confirmed everything was connected properly. I removed the vacuum line from my FPR to check the base fuel pressure. It was set wayyy higher than I had requested. To be honest, the adjustment stud wasn't bolted so it may have changed over time. I re-set the FP to 46.5psi down from 55psi. We modified the tune accordingly, but the AFLs were still off while cruising and idling.
I inspected everything else, inlet clamps were loose, but not too bad. All hoses were connected. Cleaned the MAF. Nothing changed. We decided it was time to check for a bad MAF. I ordered a brand new one, and the AFLs went back to normal right away. Issue #1 solved! The AFLs are all now within spec while driving.
The car ran great from here for a couple weeks. The AFLs were a bit off still at idle, but nothing major. The temps were very warm and very humid so we figured the weather was playing tricks on us. The knock while shifting was still happening, but was avoidable as it only happened when going balls out.
Our East Coast Subaru Fall Rumble was taking place at the end of September. Being ready for the meet in advance for once, I decided to do an oil change for good measure. I find out my passenger side tire is down to the wire with bad toe. With 5 days to the meet, I was lucky to get some Michelin MP4S the next day. I got them mounted, and I also decided to go back to OEM suspension for the winter.
Forward to two weeks ago, the AFLs at idle went berzerk. I was leaning out at idle. They went from manageable to worse to undriveable within two weeks. It was obviously some sort of vacuum leak as crusing and driving was not affected. It was clear now that my weird AFLs at idle were a vacuum leak in the making. I inspected everything, nothing found. Shinji tried to minimize it to buy me some time to troubleshoot to no avail. Three days later, were now in the worse part. CEL comes up at idle, P0171 System Too Lean (Extreme Fuel Trims). I teared everything down, checked all hoses, replaced two plugs, and checked all exhaust gaskets. Everything was good. Two days later, were now in the undriveable part, three CELs show up: P0171 System Too Lean (Extreme Fuel Trims), P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected and PFFFE No description available.
Being very busy at work, and with other stuff going on, I bring the car to the dealership to troubleshoot the vacuum leak. They find the mother of all leaks where I never expected to check. My brand new IAG TGV to Engine gaskets failed. I replaced them all with OEM gaskets and reinstalled the spacer.
The car now runs perfectly. It's very clear now with everything fixed that the knock while shifting wasn't really related to the shifting, but was boost creep the entire time. It wasn't as clear in the logs until now. Thanks again to Shinji for all the help and patience to get to this point!
So for the last issue, it's clear I need an EWG. I shouldn't have left it out from the build this last round. It's pretty much a requirement for us in Canada at the point I'm at. I'm looking at options now. I need to decide if I want the cheap fix or if I go all the way again following my plan. I'm aiming to do something to get it under control before winter.
WOHOO glad the car is finally running as it should. Sounds like the first tuner was not very good at their job...or just not willing to deal with it. A good tuner doesn't only know how to tune, but knows how to troubleshoot just as well.
Yup, just checked them the other day after really paying close attention to not letting anything get on them, and not over torquing them during install... annnnnnnnd they failed again. So once I get back from my mini vacation I'm going OEM as well.
Boost creeps completely gone. Hardest part of the install was squeezing in big hands to screw in the vband clamps while using an 8mm key and a farkin allen key. I hate allen [email protected]&[email protected]&!. I need to get myself a mini ratchet wrench set.
Blew my AF sensor somehow. I must have twisted or pulled the wires inside when unscrewing it. I had to order a new one.
I'm still open dump for now. Re-tuning's in progress!
Swapped to winter tires. Sanded the Ferodos to remove the glazing and reduce the squeaking. Installed Girodisc rear pad shims.
The current limitation is the 91 octane level. I've decided meth won't be happening until I've got a better setup to troubleshoot things. This year has been a heck of year for troubleshooting. I'm going to be status quo for as long as I can.
I'm tired of doing all the work in my driveway or borrowing someone's garage. I've got all the tools. It's about time I got my own work place, proper garage. I'll be saving/planning to buy or build another house with a garage. And from there, it most likely will be time to get into a new platform.
The Supertrapp has gone into storage. The car will stay open dump EWG for a while. It's kid approved, and so far wife approved. It's very manageable. I don't find it too loud. Obviously, it's a significant noise, but it's only when you're asking for power so it's expected. Those who complain about it either run WOT all day every day or have a really heavy foot.
As far as the Corsa + Invidia Catless + Tomei ELH combo goes, it's pretty freakin awesome. It's quieter than with UELs. I'd say it's almost stock sound level without the rumble. It's surprisingly quiet, but only once warmed up. At cold start, it's pretty much a helicopter hovering next to your house for 2-4mins, lol. Regardless, I was skeptical from the strong feedback there was on these forums about the Corsa + ELH, but I think now seeing this first hand that that person just blew things out of proportion and had sensitive ears or something. I will admit there is a slight resonance when you're going through the 2500-3000 rpm range slowly. It's avoidable on my setup though, and I don't really hear it anymore as I'm getting used to it already.. With the new motor, new fuel system, no stumble, I can easily cruise around 2k rpm without any issues making it in my opinion quieter than stock. Everybody I've had in my car so far, including my wife, have noticed it got quieter overall with the sound change.
The tuning's going great. We are pretty much done, except a few final SI mode tweaks. Shinji's very thorough, and is very willing to pass on his knowledge. I've learned so much through him alone. It's been a great experience. I highly recommend him.
It looks like the final numbers will hover around 320awhp / 360awtq.
Disclaimer: I have no sponsorships or financial ties to IAG or any other companies listed in my journal. I am a hard-working, private owner of this vehicle and its modifications.
Stock STi baseline = 225whp (IAG dyno numbers are uncorrected)
My feedback on this project: NASIOC - View...
My name ist Andreas and i´m from Germany.
I recently purchased a 2013 WRX STI in Dark Grey Metallic.
the car has 18000 miles and already a rebuild shortblock.
As i bought the car, it was completely stock except a Invidia Q300
obvibiously what else, lol...:rolleyes:
I try to make...
The day I brought her home. February 6th, 2015.
Manley Platinum Forged Pistons 99.5
Eagle Forged H-beam rods
OEM 2012 STi nitrided crank
ARP 2000 Headstuds
King Rod Bearings
King Main bearings
Killer-B oil pickup
Killer-B baffled oil pan
Performance: Updated 8/26/19
Hey there, my name is Alex and I am extremely fortunate to own a car of this nature. My first car was a brand new 2011 VW Jetta in white.
Being a passionate car enthusiast who attended the track every week to watch, I wanted to have a car that I could drive around and turn heads, but also...