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Group-N are very stiff. A difference, sure. Real performance mounts? Not so much - mind you - many people would not like stiffer mounts - but i wouldn't hesitate to switch an mount to a Group N without the others - they are pretty close to stock.

MY sons GD WRRX has Group-N. I have Perrin. He says he has most of the noise and and harshness and less of the benefit. Neither of us will use Group-N again. If I were to do it today I'd probably go Torque Solutions - though the Perrin parts are very nice - if you can tolerate em. They're also expensive.

Maybe. I think I did the Beatrush engine mounts. Pretty communicative to the cabin.
Depends on the model - Beatrush offers a variety - including solid mounts.

Added: Actually I wouldn't hesitate to mix or match mounts in a symmetrical fashion IE different engine and pitch stop and trans. Why? None of our mounts absorb much energy. They wear from motion, and the things you do to restrict motion in one area or direction is not going to increase motion in another. If anything it will be less.

More importantly, how forces are distributed is mostly geometric, and stiffening you mounts negligibly changes things negligibly, or they would not fit.
 

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The STI trans can handle a ton of power, of course it's not going to feel like a Honda.

But no Subaru transmission I've driven has been silky smooth, either. The old WRX 5MT was pretty clunky.
 

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Indeed.

I once drove a Honda Accord Euro (AUS model) and the car was fitted with Mugen quickshifter. It feels oily and somewhat springy into action for a very quick and slick shifting. I can just rest my arm and let the wrist do the work for shifting - it is that good.
 

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But no Subaru transmission I've driven has been silky smooth, either. The old WRX 5MT was pretty clunky.

There are a ton of people on the web saying how great and smooth their STI trans is. Personally I have never driven a Subaru, let alone an STI with a very easy to use manual transmission and you literally had to wrestle to my 5mt WRX trans to downshift into second.

That said . . .

Indeed. I once drove a Honda Accord Euro . . . I can just rest my arm and let the wrist do the work for shifting - it is that good.
Excluding 1st, I can almost always shift with only wrist action in my STI. Yes factory SS with aftermarket bushings and lever. If I'm getting on it, generally I can not be so subtle just just from the changing acceleration forces involved.
 

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I thought the original question/problem was cold upshifting to 2nd and 5th. Not downshifts, not how easy/hard the box shifts in general. They all crunch into 2nd when cold. If you double clutch it it gets better but not perfect. Mounts and bushings aren't going to fix that. Take it easy until it warms up, admittedly it may take awhile since the original post is from Canada.
 

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There are a ton of people on the web saying how great and smooth their STI trans is. Personally I have never driven a Subaru, let alone an STI with a very easy to use manual transmission and you literally had to wrestle to my 5mt WRX trans to downshift into second.
It is a great transmission, especially after it warms up. I freaking love it, quirks and all. But it's not butter smooth all the time where you can shift with your fingers. But sometimes you can, and it is awesome. Esp. on a perfect downshift.
 

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I’ve had one of the worst transmission stories for my LEASED 2018 STI my first trans rebuild was around 5,000 miles my issues started around 3,500. Mind you it was 5th gear that I started having a very concerning crunch noise in know the normal crunch into second, but this was way worse and had more of a grind. Concerned I took it too dealer and they just pushed it aside and said it was normal. Like I said at about 5,000 it was so gross it was grinding and smacking and struggling to put into gear. Full rebuild done by level 1 technician and not warrantied for reasons I have no clue. They goodwilled my rebuild which means they payed but skipped warranty. They did not communicate this to me till after the repair. When I questioned they just said I abused it... mind you this car had 5,000 miles with no mods. The technician broke off 12 teeth if my gear while removing it. My bearings were removed by screwdriver and hammer with clear indentations from them. My clutch forks were pulled out with pliers all scuffed up. The best part is they gave me all the parts afterwards.
So move forward another 3,500 miles or so guess what 4th gear starts getting the same noise. I have video of all grinds and noises.
It took me going to 3-4 dealerships and complaining about the noise again to finally go through this giant hassle to have it looked at again. Well they bust open my trans again to find the same “damage” on my 4th gear now. I believe it was the synchros we’re getting worn. They barely shared any info and never sent me pictures I asked for. I did get to see the trans apart and it looked to be in perfect condition besides some ware on synchros and gear. They also stated my clutch had “hot spots” so they’ll be replacing it. What AWD car doesn’t have hot spots? He even showed me it and it wasn’t bad at all.
Same thing no warranty. Goodwilled, they were going to charge me to tear trans apart if it found to be my fault and make me pay to have it put back in. I’m now 13,168 miles on rebuilt trans/clutch and the clutch changed immensely from the replacement. I had some scary noises in 3rd and reported it to them but haven’t had much noise since.
My car sat in shops for a total of 40+ days.
This has been the worst experience of my life.
I’m still fighting subaru for some info and proof of any abuse and they cannot come up with any but continue to refuse my warranty. I’m actively pursuing Lemon Law since I’m in Ohio but it’s a long case and I’m losing my mind.
Cars at 29k miles now and my latest issue is high pitch whistling at higher RPMS almost like a boost leak. Just had BPV replaced and it’s still there. Whistle fan carry through shifts and I sit at about 13/15 PSI instead of my normal 15/18.
 

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^ sucks about your experience. Its rare. These trannys are usually bulletproof.

A couple of friends that work at my dealer also recommended Motylgear instead of gear300 for the tranny -- apparently Motylgear works with the synchros better and after this change, I believe it... even the cold start 1 to 2 gear change is easier than before. All gears still that awesome notchyness to know you're in, but its smooth notchy if that makes sense... like there's an actual transition getting into the gears instead of forcing it in. Downshifts feel nicer too. They did agree on gear300 in the rear diff too so that's in there now.
 

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^ sucks about your experience. Its rare. These trannys are usually bulletproof.

A couple of friends that work at my dealer also recommended Motylgear instead of gear300 for the tranny -- apparently Motylgear works with the synchros better and after this change, I believe it... even the cold start 1 to 2 gear change is easier than before. All gears still that awesome notchyness to know you're in, but its smooth notchy if that makes sense... like there's an actual transition getting into the gears instead of forcing it in. Downshifts feel nicer too. They did agree on gear300 in the rear diff too so that's in there now.
yeah.. I just recently swapped out oem trans to motul 300 for 30k interval mark and WOW ... what a world of change.. slides smooooooth like it's been lubed with butter

.. some expensive ass butter though (100% worth it .. goes so ez from 1st to 2nd on cold starts.. and all other gears too ^_^ )
 

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So is 300 ok or Motyl Gear is the preferred oil for trans and diff?
Others like 300 for both. I’ve read good things about 300 in the tranny, but I’ve also read minor annoyances with it. I haven’t read anything bad about Motylgear for the trans, and recommendations for it swayed me. So for me it’s Motylgear for trans, 300 for diff.
 

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Others like 300 for both. I’ve read good things about 300 in the tranny, but I’ve also read minor annoyances with it. I haven’t read anything bad about Motylgear for the trans, and recommendations for it swayed me. So for me it’s Motylgear for trans, 300 for diff.
Sounds good!
 
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