[BootsJunkie]

Re: My first engine build.

Good news; new crush washers, no more leaking :tup:

VERY good news; while driving, brake pedal feels tighter than an 18 year old virg.... nvm.



Bad news; ABS light

VERY bad news; (and someone correct me if I'm wrong, but) it sounds like 2005's were the first year without the ABS diagnostic connector, so I NEED to bring it somewhere to get scanned? Car drives absolutely fine, just ABS and DCCD light. Is it safe to drive to the dealer?

I found this post, showing the ABS connector going into the harness directly where the green ECU connector goes in.
How-to: 2004 STi ABS sensor troubleshooting - installation guide


Than mine- absolutely NO WHERE the ABS connector can be, I looked for hours

 

[BootsJunkie]

Re: My first engine build.

Any thoughts on the ABS light? I pretty much NEED to bring it somewhere to get scanned?

 

[BootsJunkie]

Re: My first engine build.

Got home from SC friday night.
Saturday morning, got an "alignment", and they also scanned the ABS code.

3 ABS codes. 27 Left rear ABS speed sensor, 42 power supply error, and 48 communication error. I'm assuming all 3 are related to the speed sensor, so I got a new one on the way :tup:

Alignment; threw it up on the rack, and without any adjustments to anything what-so-ever, is pretty damn good. Even on the impact side Right rear, with a new hub and trailing arm was MUCH better than I was anticipating.


Camber;
Front: -1.38L, -1.4R
Rear: -2.09L, -2.02R
Remember my ass end is lower cuz I got the H&R's in the rear for now, AST's still on the fronts.

Toe;
Front: -.43L, -.52R
Rear: -.06L, -.45R
Is this an excessive amount of toe?
STS' specs are between 0 +/ .12 each wheel, which mine are like 3.5times that.
But the manual's specs are either 0 +/- .25, or +/- .167, still can't figure out which one, but both of which are better than STS'.

 

[Muller Performance]

Re: My first engine build.

you need zero toe all around or -.01 at best.

 

[BootsJunkie]

Re: My first engine build.

Replaced the LR wheel speed sensor

And since my tie rods were rusted frozen and they couldn't adjust anything....

Installed new inner tie rods, and a Whiteline Roll center kit.

Not sure if it's because I did the ball joints like 40K ago, or if it was the air chisel/hammer, but as soon as the air hammer barely wedged into the split of the hub, the BJ's almost dropped out. :tup:


All good things

 

[awenthol]

Re: My first engine build.

Anti-seize all the things

 

[BootsJunkie]

Re: My first engine build.

Anti-seize all the things

Seriously you're not kidding; every mating surface, anti-siezed the shiit out of it.



SURPRISE!!!! Fender flaress!!!

They surprisingly fit alotttt better than I was anticipating thankfully. I've only mocked up the fronts so far, but I don't think I'll need to trim them at ALL. Yet.
Last things I gotta buy are the nut-serts, hardware, and gun to install the nut-serts.



Already got the Bushwacker fender trim, and my first decision is how to mount it;


Like it was intended to be installed:
Pro's: flows better and looks smoother, and the double-sided tape has more surface area to stick to the flare
Con: it's more visible

Or flipped around.
Doesn't flow as smoothly, but is less visible.

I'll probably go with the 1st option, I don't think it'll be too visible when more than 5ft away.

 

[got2boostit2]

Interested to see how the flares turn out. What wheel/tire specs?

 

[wdb]

Thread title change, w00t!

 

[BootsJunkie]

Thread title change, w00t!

And added a Table of Contents to Post #1. I'll get around to making a mod list soon.

 

[BootsJunkie]

Interested to see how the flares turn out. What wheel/tire specs?

18x10.5 +15. Wheels are a surprise, unless anyone picked up on the subtle hint a couple pages ago
On 295/30, probably R888R's



So I've been noticing my drivers-side side skirt has been popping more of it's push clips out more and more often, needing me to punch them back in more often, so I looked into it and decided it was the jacking point pinch welds folded on itself (both front and rear) putting outward pressure on the side skirts.

Took off the DS skirt and clayed/waxed both the skirt and rocker panel, and fixed the jacking points.


Folded out on itself:

Straightened it out with some vice grips:

Wire brushed the rust and chipped paint:

And sprayed w/ the same Rustoleum "WRB" :lol:

Yes, it fixed the sideskirt. Punched it back on, and it fits muchhh better now, without feeling like it's about to pop off again.
I'll do the same shortly with the pass side skirt. And I also gotta buy a hockey puck and cut a slot in it (a hack saw is prolly my safest bet ) to use in the head of my floor jack.

 

[BootsJunkie]

Lunch time photo shoot.


This'll be one of, if not the last picture without holes in my fenders/quarters

 

[BootsJunkie]

Welp - depending on if I'm gonna run the small front and rear pieces, I'm either 100% done, or only 50% done :lol:

The small rear door pieces both fit the contour of the doors really nicely, but the gap between the 2 pieces is like thumb-width. We'll see...


The front bumper pieces tho....

Drivers side fits VERY nicely:

But the pass side is tweaked something fierce. Doing some research on if heating up fiberglass will allow me to twist/re-contour it, isn't coming up promising at all

 

[wdb]

Puppy doesn't look pleased with that fitment.

 

[BootsJunkie]

2 weekends ago, I spent around 10 hours claying, compounding, polishing, and waxing the car. With my McGuiers DA drill attachment. It's.... marginal, at best. It took me 10 hours to do the roof, and entire drivers and passenger side.
Only things left are bumpers, trunk and hood.

Here's a good comparison.

Wondering WTF all the oil spots were all over the SeaDoo, I think I found the cause of my oil loss

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMOnjvWO4pk
This was on a cold start-up. It's mostly condensation, with a bit of oil mixed in there.


The pic of this puddle makes it look like straight oil....

....but I promise it's mostly condensation.

Is this amount of condensation + oil worrisome?

I do also need to add a couple tablespoons of coolant/water after every drive, but I don't think that's related (e.g. head gasket)

 

[wdb]

TABLESPOONS?

OCD much? :lol:

I'm surprised by the before/after paint comparison. Might have to stop being so lazy and just using the soap/wax combo...

 

[BootsJunkie]

I picked up a new DD this weekend. It was my brothers old DD, since he got a brand new Lexus GS350 F-Sport



Out with the old Acura TL..... In with the new Acura TL (Type-S )

It's apparently a "unicorn" Acura. A 6-speed, 2007 Kinetic Blue Pearl Type-S with Ivory interior.
And my bro put on; A-Spec wheels, A-Spec front and rear lips, and lowered about 1".

Now both the racecar and DD are; blue 4 doors, 4/5 seater, 6-speeds with Brembo's :tup:

 

[Guardian-X-]

Now that's a very nice DD congrats. I'm amazed you decided to compound and polish an entire car ... with a drill attachment i would have called it quits after half a bumper :lol: (then again i am a detailer so i'm used to easier ways of doing it )

Btw u sure it's oil and not soot from the exhaust mixed with condensation? Mine alway's done it but it was just black from the soot inside the exhaust. Does the small puddle feel oily?

 

[BootsJunkie]

TABLESPOONS?

OCD much? :lol:

I'm surprised by the before/after paint comparison. Might have to stop being so lazy and just using the soap/wax combo...

If it were just 1 tablespoon every now and then, I wouldn't be too worried.
But it's consistently every single time I drive, and it only takes a couple tablespoons to equal about 1/4 of a water bottle (2oz's)

Now that's a very nice DD congrats. I'm amazed you decided to compound and polish an entire car ... with a drill attachment i would have called it quits after half a bumper :lol: (then again i am a detailer so i'm used to easier ways of doing it )

Btw u sure it's oil and not soot from the exhaust mixed with condensation? Mine alway's done it but it was just black from the soot inside the exhaust. Does the small puddle feel oily?

You're not kidding about how tiring the drill attachment is. I think a real DA polisher might be my bday present
I didn't even finish the subie, only have the hood/trunk and bumpers left, before I started doing it again on the TL. Spent about 5hrs doing the entire drivers-side, trunk, and 1/2 the hood

It def doesn't smell or feel oily. It def is soot + condensation, but starting to be an embarassing amount.
My brother and I went to NHRA Top Fuel qualifying on friday cool and after I left his house he told me I left this mark on his fire wood cover!

I'm starting to get concerned with how much it's staining!

 

[BootsJunkie]

Teaser alert

Can anyone guess the rims? (someone on here knows exactly what they are, considering he helped me source them )

It only took 4 months to get them from Japan- longer than some have waited for their '18 STI's :rofl:




225's vs 295's

Now that I finally have all the hardware for the flares (rivnuts installed + titanium dome head bolts) comes the final flare fitment, since the OD of the bolt is almost the same, if anything slightly bigger than the recess in the flares, needing some sanding/trimming to bolt on nicely.
These are the bolts I got, BTW. $6/bolt, jesus effing christ :lol:
http://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium-dome-head-bolt-m6-x-1-00mm-x-20mm-8.html


I got 2 diff quotes to paint the flares, and I'll be supplying the WRB paint + ChromaBase from Dupont;
1st quote, I just sent a picture of the flares + paint cans to a guy on FB who is just opening his own body shop and just wants customers thru the door = $80.

2nd quote, 2 of my friends from HS own a classic/muscle car restoration shop, doing frame-off rotisserie style resto's on classics such as '70 4-4-2's, '57 Bel-Airs, '69 Z28 RS', etc etc..... $1K :lol:
There's NO DOUBT that they'll come out perfectly from them, but jesus :rofl:

Maybe I'll get a 3rd opinion from a place that's walking distance from my work