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Just wanted to add that this is a great thread!! I am in the process of gathering parts for my own engine build and you've answered many questions that have been keeping me up at night.

I did have a few more that I'd like to see if anyone has answers to:

1) When you say rod journal to bearing clearance, are you referring to rod and main journal bearing clearances or just the rod journal clearances?
2) My block has the engravings of 22223 which refer to main journal sizes. This indicates that I have slightly different sized main journal sizes and need slightly different main bearing thickness to achieve proper oil clearances. Did you run into this situation? (what are the engravings on your block?) If so, where did you buy multiple sized bearings? (don't want to buy multiple sets for multiple sizes) Did you use a bore gauge to determine the block journal size?
3) Are you running 0.002" oil clearances between all rod & main bearing-to-journals? Did you have success using plastigauge to determine these clearances?
4) Did you follow the same lifter-to-cam clearances as OEM with the BC cams? I will be buying those same cams and wanted to see if you needed to buy additional lifters to achieve proper clearances.

Any advice/guidance from anybody with experience would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by calisti
He says taking .001" clearance in the rod journal has fixed the spun rod bearing failures (my machinist concurs with this mod).

proper clearance is important. so is oil pressure; 10 psi for every 1000 rpm.

how do you decide the clearance is it a standard mesurment or is it dependant on the hosepower or boost you will run the engine at. i see the rings and bearings set to differant specs .
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Finally got car started. First I had some fuel leaks on the aps fuel rail. I found out I forgot to seal up the auxilary ports. Next had to replace the yellow top optima I killed, now have an Odyssey 925.
I installed the Hydra 2.5 and loaded up a map Phil sent me. The car would just not turn over. In the process of checking for fuel leaks and repeatedly trying to start the car I had to dump the oil a couple times due to flooding the motor with fuel which caused the oil to be contaminated. It ended up being the map he sent me may have gotten corrupted from a server. Phil emailed me the map to another email address. I loaded this map up, primed the oil and it finally started while doing the "clear flood method" (flooring the throttle past 90% open while turning to ignition which shuts fuel off while cranking). I didn't have an oil pressure gauge so I just waited to see if the oil light would go off while priming it. My tuner told me it wouldn't go off and after turning the motor over with the starter over 10 times that I should have sufficient pressure. After it started the light turned off. It sure sounded sweet to hear her finally breathe again.

Now I've gone ahead and shipped out my Hydra to do the 2.6 upgrade. I'll be getting the auxilary harness for flat foot shifting, anti lag, launch control later since I'm kind of tapped for cash at the moment. When I get that back I'll have my tuner get the afr's safe so I can properly break the motor in and seal the rings. Then I'll have him do a road tune since it should have real world load on the motor.

I'm going break in the car with Rowtella 30 wt oil as recommended by the machinist. I set my Dtec boost controller to 5 psi but will revert to wastegate pressure about 7-8 psi. Break in method will be close to the "Motoman's break in method". I'll be going up some hills going into about 5-7 psi of boost to place a load on the motor. I can lower the duty cycle on the Dtec so as to regulate the boost. I'll also do some engine breaking to also create vacum to further help seat the rings. I know to vary rpms and not be at a steady cruising rpm. I'll do another oil change after 20 miles of initial break in.
 

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^ You can get the oil light to shut off while priming a new built motor. I have done it twice now. It just takes a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
^ You can get the oil light to shut off while priming a new built motor. I have done it twice now. It just takes a long time.
I started to worry it was a mechanical issue. like the oil pickup or a stuck pressure relief in the oil pump. About how long of cranking the motor does it actually take you to get the oil light to shut off?
 

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I started to worry it was a mechanical issue. like the oil pickup or oil pump. About how long of cranking the motor does it actually take you to get the oil light to shut off?

I don't know. But I almost gave up on it a couple times and kept saying "OK I'm gonna try it one more time" then finally the light went off. Both times.
 

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Subscribed. Very informative. Cant wait to see the final product!
 

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You know I just found out that the machine shop forgot to remove the Allen screws on my BC cams... So no Avcs for me until I can take the car back to my builder this saturday. I just need 200 more miles to finish my brake in, toght I think that the engine is all sealed up since its not consuming any more oil.

Cali, do you know if the engine needs to be pulled out of the car to remove this screws? I hope not...
 

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You know I just found out that the machine shop forgot to remove the Allen screws on my BC cams... So no Avcs for me until I can take the car back to my builder this saturday. I just need 200 more miles to finish my brake in, toght I think that the engine is all sealed up since its not consuming any more oil.

Cali, do you know if the engine needs to be pulled out of the car to remove this screws? I hope not...
the front timing cover, timing belt, and intake cam gears have to come off. You could probably do this in the car. the cam gear removal will be the most difficult, you'll need to research this process thoroughly. the nice part is your engine will be fresh and hopefully those bolts break loose without too much fanfare...
 

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the front timing cover, timing belt, and intake cam gears have to come off. You could probably do this in the car. the cam gear removal will be the most difficult, you'll need to research this process thoroughly. the nice part is your engine will be fresh and hopefully those bolts break loose without too much fanfare...
I'm just contemplating to eliminate the avcs system from this car but I don't know since I will be on the stock turbo for a while now.

The builder said that he can do the job but it would take about 8am to 5 pm to do everything on the car and do a test run to check that everything is in order. Frankly with out the system the car still feels as strong as before or even better at only 13 psi. Going to road tune it tonight hopefully if I can get my wideband working with vista....:mad:.
 

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I'm just contemplating to eliminate the avcs system from this car but I don't know since I will be on the stock turbo for a while now.
I think you should have them take the screws out so you can use AVCS. It made a nice difference in drivability+spoolup with my cosworth cams. WRX cam gears run 5 degrees advance to help with the low end - your STI cam gears don't.



and Windows 7 Beta >>>>> Vista
 

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I think you should have them take the screws out so you can use AVCS. It made a nice difference in drivability+spoolup with my cosworth cams. WRX cam gears run 5 degrees advance to help with the low end - your STI cam gears don't.
and Windows 7 Beta >>>>> Vista
Yea I think I'll just take the car over to them this Saturday and have that job done. Also I'm gonna replace my coolant with Motul Inugel while they are at it. I wont be tinkering with the avcs maps since I'm a wee bit afraid of the valves hitting the piston tops.
 

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You could talk to somebody at BC and see if they have any comments about AVCS valve interference. Cosworth plus [email protected] said I was fine for full avcs but I'm only running a max 10 cam degrees, since my heads/block have been resurfaced a couple times. With big cams I don't think you need a lot of avcs advance to have the desired effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
OK, now I blew a seal on my vf36. White/blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. Found oil in my ic piping out of the compressor side. So now just waiting on AVO's twinscroll gt3076 hybrid to come out. Motor runs fine, no missing and no overheating. Borrowed my mechanic's leak down tester just to make sure but he says it's the turbo's seals too.
 

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You could talk to somebody at BC and see if they have any comments about AVCS valve interference. Cosworth plus [email protected] said I was fine for full avcs but I'm only running a max 10 cam degrees, since my heads/block have been resurfaced a couple times. With big cams I don't think you need a lot of avcs advance to have the desired effect.
Brian emailed me and said they are made to work with 20* of advance.
 
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