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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got back into owning about Subaru. Just picked up a 2021 Magnetite Gray STI Limited with the wing. I use to own a 2009 Dark Gray WRX base which made around 290hp/335tq. Really loving the STI so far and can't wait to start building this one too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle
Car Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Wheel
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Window
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As on now it has RCE yellow springs with Whiteline sway bars, top hats, steering rack bushing, Torque Solutions lower control arms, mounts for engine, transmission, and diff, short shifter with bushings, AWE Touring catback, and Grimmspeed y pipe.
 

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Looks great! Did you powder coat your wheels or find an older 18-19 set? Are you running wheel spacers? How's the RCE yellows? I've read they are harsher on the 18+ compared to the 15-17's. So far I've done a Cobb Stage 1+, suspension is next so I'm doing the whole Coil-overs vs Springs debate in my head. Welcome back to Subaru!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had the powder coated black and running a 20mm spacer. The yellows are stiffer over factory. Comparable to lowered cars I have driven before. I thought about coil-overs too but really did not see me adjusting height in the near future. I now working on getting parts for the power side now. Looking to be around the 350-375hp range with the STI this time. Thinking of trying the new Grimmspeed BB500 turbo. Already have the access port, boost controller, and fuel system waiting to be put one once I get the rest of what is needed.
 
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nice. idk what the new grimmspeed turbos will do, havent yet looked much into them. for that power range i'm currently on a 20g turbo from blouch. it made 377whp. it's a fun little turbo, granted, i do find myself wanting more haha. but i'm honestly content with where it's at now. i actually debated going to a smaller turbo at one point until my racing class split to over and under 400whp, then the 20g fit perfectly. before i was running against guys with 600+whp and just couldnt be competitive. i'm hoping this year i can get more seat time and actually be a little competitive lol.

if you are racing check the class rules before upgrading a turbo. i got into racing after the 20g and was stuck into competition/street modified classes for local trackcross and autocross, and a smaller turbo wouldve allowed me to be much more competitive by going down to a lower class.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not sure about taking it track days right now. It's going to be a street car for now that's fun to drive. I was up until a few weeks ago looking at either the Cobb 20g or FP Blue. The other think to it is we don't have e85 around here to it will be pump 93. Which might be a lofty goal of the for close to 375ish hp.
 

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Not sure about taking it track days right now. It's going to be a street car for now that's fun to drive. I was up until a few weeks ago looking at either the Cobb 20g or FP Blue. The other think to it is we don't have e85 around here to it will be pump 93. Which might be a lofty goal of the for close to 375ish hp.
that will partially depend on what type of dyno you are on. I can say on my blouch 20g xtr i made 377whp/401wtq @23psi on 93 pump gas on IAG's dynojet. I THINK it was SAE correction with a smoothing of 5 or 6, my dyno chart is posted on here in my journal (lookup karlot on the search and it should come up, i havent updated it in a bit cause i'm getting ready for a wedding so there's nothing really new to show off at the moment lol). when i get to run e85 (need a better fuel system for this), i should make in the 415-430whp range. but if you want to hit that goal, i'd personally go with a blouch dom 1.5 xtr. it's a tad bigger than the 20g but assuming a dynojet should pretty easily make the 375whp goal you have on pump gas, and a 1.5xtr is barely different on lagginess, iirc, when i was working at mach v motorsports the difference in spool was under 500rpm to hit 21psi when comparing the 20g and a 1.5xtr. a 20g would likely be making 350whp/350wtq on about 20-21 psi on a dynojet with pump gas in my experience. the fp blue should be able to hit the 375 goal as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looking at your list it looks like they will be really similar except for the block. I have the Cobb fuel rail, lines, pressure regulator, 1050x injectors, aem 340 fuel pump, and Killer B hard inlet. Was planning on Killer B headers, cobb down pipe, grimmspeed intercooler, and then one of the above turbos. Did not plan for tvg or map sensor. It does sound like I "should" be in the area I would like to be.
 

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Looking at your list it looks like they will be really similar except for the block. I have the Cobb fuel rail, lines, pressure regulator, 1050x injectors, aem 340 fuel pump, and Killer B hard inlet. Was planning on Killer B headers, cobb down pipe, grimmspeed intercooler, and then one of the above turbos. Did not plan for tvg or map sensor. It does sound like I "should" be in the area I would like to be.
yeah pending your turbo choice you'll be close if not a bit better. i want the killer b headers, they are simply the best design, but i got my tomei ones used for like 400 bucks and couldnt argue with the price (they were already modded for my ewg). and honestly the block i have wouldnt add any power, just holds it a bit more reliably when abusing the car (which i do lol). but the headers would probably pick up a few whp, not much but if mine ever crack i'll go killerb. you may or may not need the map sensor, and tgvs might give me like 5hp, honestly it wouldnt be much and if you have to worry about emmissions pending what state/area youre in you can get away without doing those. If emmissions arent an issue i'd go ahead and do those too, but if they are just keep them, i live in a rural area so we dont have to do emmissions unless enough people move into the area that it's not considered rural anymore, which i dont see happening anytime soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I work at a Subaru dealership so passing emissions is pretty easy. I do like having them in place in case something ever comes up about it. Will my block being one of the RA blocks I thing that will be ok for it with it being a street car. There will be times I get on it but mostly will be driving back and forth to work. I'll just talk to who is going to tune it and see about the map sensor at that time. If needed then I will get it, if not great.
 

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most of the RA blocks ive seen are running ethanol, which, if you are planning to run ethanol will be your best bet. but the ra blocks are pretty solid. just keep up on maintenance, but that's any car lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Already did one at 500. Going to to another at 1500. Then at 4500. Will see at 4500 if I need to adjust the interval from there. I was doing every 3000 on my old 2009 and that was about time for it.
 
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