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2020 Subaru WRX STI
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2020 STI

desired alignment:
front: -2.0 camber, 0 toe, (want to have like +6 castor, but dont have adjustment parts for this)
rear: -1.5 camber, 0 toe, 0 castor

wheel specs: 18x9.5+38, 265/35/18

I am installing my coilovers and wanted to drop front and back so that there is about a finger's gap. I don't want to go slammed, just optimal driving/racing specs.

The front camber could be adjusted to -2 camber because the coilover has camber plates but the rear has no adjustments. The camber will be whatever it is going to be as I drop the car. But as I drop the car with a finger's gap, my rear tires will rub on bumps/driveways. So I can't get my desired rear ride height and possibly not the desired rear camber degree.

So my question is: which lower control arms are good quality products for this car?

I don't see many options for LCA brands for this car and wondering what others are running since I see a lot of flush and stanced fitments for this car. I am more inclined to get whiteline LCA because I use their sway bars and endlinks but would like other's opinions.
 

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371 Posts
I just went through everything you are doing. I went with superpro lower control arms in the rear. I did all bushings in superpro too. You can spend the extra for Cusco or other fancy LCA for the rear, but I couldn't find any reason to do on my street maybe one day track car. In fact, I found them to be more than I wanted to deal with in terms of adjustability and other 'features'.

I just did an alignment today with -2.0 front, and -1.5 rear. 10 degrees toe in all around. Caster is 6.7 with superpro front lower control arms with the offset caster bushing. Before, with front camber at ~ -1.0 in the front the caster was 7.2. I don't know if the caster naturally moved with the added front camber and toe in setting adjustments or if the alignment guy tried to adjust it to get it closer to factory spec. I'm thinking it's the former.

If anyone comes along and has an answer to that I'd be curious to hear it. Kinda sucks to have paid bucks for the superpro front LCAs to have the caster sitting just one degree above factory spec.

The only thing I"m not liking is the tramlining. It's pretty bad. As bad as it is I sometimes like to go 100 down the highway and stab the throttle without having to worry about the road I'm on. That's pretty scary as the car sits now. That's about the only input I have at this point. I hope it helps ya!
 

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2020 STI

desired alignment:
front: -2.0 camber, 0 toe, (want to have like +6 castor, but dont have adjustment parts for this)
rear: -1.5 camber, 0 toe, 0 castor

wheel specs: 18x9.5+38, 265/35/18

I am installing my coilovers and wanted to drop front and back so that there is about a finger's gap. I don't want to go slammed, just optimal driving/racing specs.

The front camber could be adjusted to -2 camber because the coilover has camber plates but the rear has no adjustments. The camber will be whatever it is going to be as I drop the car. But as I drop the car with a finger's gap, my rear tires will rub on bumps/driveways. So I can't get my desired rear ride height and possibly not the desired rear camber degree.

So my question is: which lower control arms are good quality products for this car?
I'm using Super Pro rear LCA, and looking at Whiteline, it looks the same. I do track my car and I also do my own alignments (time consuming, but worth the time). I'm on the same wheel specs as you but I'm running 255 tires. YOU DO NOT WANT TO GO TOO LOW! I'm on 10K springs on the rear with FA510, and with 1 finger height, you will rub trying to punch out of corners. If you do want to go that low, I would recommend that you pull and roll your fenders or go with 12K springs.

On that note, I'm on -2.5 degrees camber on the rear w/ 0 toe. I was rubbing at -1.75 at almost 0.75" gap. I raised my car to 1.5" gap from top of tires. It also made sense to do so as I needed it for a damn near perfect corner balance. It was the perfect height as I didn't have anymore rub issues and it didn't look like a monster truck. I'm planning on going 265's next, but I'll have to pull and roll my fenders. If you're not going to track it, kiss the ground if you want.

If anyone comes along and has an answer to that I'd be curious to hear it. Kinda sucks to have paid bucks for the superpro front LCAs to have the caster sitting just one degree above factory spec.
Also, for the front, I was able to get 6.25 caster with -3.25 camber and 0 toe. Caster can be achieved by the outcome of camber and toe. In reality, caster controls camber and not the other way around. You should get more caster at -2 camber, almost at 7.
 

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2010 Hatch, 2011 Sedan
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I'm doing the Superpro fronts on my 2010 in Nov or Dec. if I can get them. They are apparently very hard to get right now due to Superpro inventories. The 2010 is my daily driver, the other car already has all whiteline bushings. From my standpoint, +1 deg of caster is a good thing and makes more sense to me to go with them vs. stock when stock cost almost the same and the cost to press the Superpro bushing into the stock arm amounts to almost the same as just buying the arm.

FYI, Superpro and Whiteline are basically one company, though their products are slightly different.
 

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I'm doing the Superpro fronts on my 2010 in Nov or Dec. if I can get them. They are apparently very hard to get right now due to Superpro inventories. The 2010 is my daily driver, the other car already has all whiteline bushings. From my standpoint, +1 deg of caster is a good thing and makes more sense to me to go with them vs. stock when stock cost almost the same and the cost to press the Superpro bushing into the stock arm amounts to almost the same as just buying the arm.

FYI, Superpro and Whiteline are basically one company, though their products are slightly different.

I had to hunt high and low for the front control arms. I finally found one box sitting on a shelf at SMY Performance. You may have success doing a deep search.

Also have had some time on the superpro lca in the rear. I'll be grabbing a set of the spl arms from turn in concepts asap. The superpro /white line style with cam bolts like to slip and are a pain for your alignment guy. Mine have slipped twice Ina very short amount of time.

I ended up at
Front - 1.8 camber , 0 toe, 6.9 caster
Rear. - 1.4, 0 toe

With the following specs I had snap oversteer and the car tramlined pretty bad. I wanted improved driving not a handful....
-2.0 front -1.7 rear camber
0,04 front 0.14 rear toe
 

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I'll second avoiding SuperPro, WhiteLine or SPC rear lower control arms. I had SuperPro's on my car for two weeks before removing them for SPLs. They slipped before I made it to the first autocross, and then slipped from -2.0 camber in the rear to +0.2 but only on the left. Tried to fix them but they slipped again.
Replaced them four weeks ago with SPL Lower Control arms. Set it once and it's good.
I've got the following specs:
-3.5 Camber Front / -2.5 Camber Rear
Zero toe all around.
For autocross this is perfect. The car dances and grips like hell. However it is not fun to drive on the highway. With the 275's it tramlines everywhere and is twitchy as hell. On the stock 245 tires it's less pronounced.

The above said... if you want to take a chance on some SuperPro lower control arms, I'll sell you a set... cheap. ;)
 
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