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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, names Jordan! Im a little new to the whole sti and modification world, just seeking some help for mods after Cobb threw that greenspeed update at us.
I have a 2020 STI, it’s now stage 1+ With ots tune (Cobb AP, Cobb redline intake, and invidia r400 exhaust) I also have some reliability mods done too ( IAG AOS, and cylinder 4 cooling mod). I’ve been riding like that for a good 7 month or so and really itching to do some upgrades and reach that 400 whp - 450whp range while still staying on 93 (since e85 is really far from me and being inconvenient). What are all the parts I should get to reach that mark while maintaining my car as reliable as possible, and that is tunable with AP post greenspeed update?
I also have kartboy short shifter and bushings.
I’d appreciate any feedback/help, and thanks in advance!
 

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What type of dyno are you referring to when you say you want 400-450? I ask because on 93, without going rotated, that will be laggy, and the car would be more fun hitting a little less power (360-380 ish on a dynojet) because of how fast it can spool. My roomate and I both had gd STi’s with nearly identical motors, he had an fp red, I had a 20g xtr. Mine made 365-370ish whp, his made 430whp on the same dyno, both of us agreed mine was much more fun on the street even though his was faster because of the lag difference.

i say all that to help guide you and give you something to think about with the following questions:

1- rotated or stock location?
2- budget?
3- would you sacrifice some of that power for spool? Or do you need to hit that 400-450? And if so on what dyno?


also, yes you can still tune this on cobb with greenspeed, you will need to retain all emissions related items to do so, I think you can still delete them in ecu tek (but you’d have to find a tuner willing, some see this as a liability), and you can definitely delete emissions codes with opensource or a standalone, again if you can find a tuner willing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What type of dyno are you referring to when you say you want 400-450? I ask because on 93, without going rotated, that will be laggy, and the car would be more fun hitting a little less power (360-380 ish on a dynojet) because of how fast it can spool. My roomate and I both had gd STi’s with nearly identical motors, he had an fp red, I had a 20g xtr. Mine made 365-370ish whp, his made 430whp on the same dyno, both of us agreed mine was much more fun on the street even though his was faster because of the lag difference.

i say all that to help guide you and give you something to think about with the following questions:

1- rotated or stock location?
2- budget?
3- would you sacrifice some of that power for spool? Or do you need to hit that 400-450? And if so on what dyno?


also, yes you can still tune this on cobb with greenspeed, you will need to retain all emissions related items to do so, I think you can still delete them in ecu tek (but you’d have to find a tuner willing, some see this as a liability), and you can definitely delete emissions codes with opensource or a standalone, again if you can find a tuner willing.
Honestly I don’t know what type of dyno my mechanic takes all the subies he works id have to ask him to be sure, I def want a protune if that makes any difference as well.
I would like stock location if possible, but I’m open to rotated.
Budget I’m not really concerned about, but by all means I don’t make money like that lmao but I rather take my time getting parts that are worth it and best for my car’s health and longevity.
I also would like to hit that 400-450 whp that is my goal I’d just don’t know what type of dyno it is, I’d have to ask my mechanic. But I’m open to suggestions in order to make that happen as long as it’s a protune with the AP.
sorry if I’m not too knowledgeable on any of this, I appreciate any suggestions
 

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Honestly I don’t know what type of dyno my mechanic takes all the subies he works id have to ask him to be sure, I def want a protune if that makes any difference as well.
I would like stock location if possible, but I’m open to rotated.
Budget I’m not really concerned about, but by all means I don’t make money like that lmao but I rather take my time getting parts that are worth it and best for my car’s health and longevity.
I also would like to hit that 400-450 whp that is my goal I’d just don’t know what type of dyno it is, I’d have to ask my mechanic. But I’m open to suggestions in order to make that happen as long as it’s a protune with the AP.
sorry if I’m not too knowledgeable on any of this, I appreciate any suggestions
Ok. So to get the best suggestion, I’d need to know dyno type, as they can read vastly differently. For that power level, on a stock location turbo, you’ll likely need to go with a blouch dom 3 xtr. That turbo will be laggy on pump. And fp red can do it too, maybe an fp black.

on the lower end of 400, a blouch 1.5 xtr will get you to about 390, maybe right at 400 on pump, spool a lot faster and be a lot more fun.

you’ll also need a lot of supporting mods from where you are at now and a built motor to support that reliably.I may be missing some, but the list would roughly be:

equal length header (go killer b)
Up pipe (preferably with Ewg)
Downpipe (cobb gesi)
Big maf intake (ks tech)
Turbo inlet (killer b)
Tgv housings (iag)
3 port ebcs
Fuel pump (aem or warlboro)
Injectors (1050s, or 1300s if you ever plan on e85)
Killer b oil pickup+baffle combo
Turbo (to be decided)
Built shortblock (iag is my suggestion, there are others that are quality)
Upgraded valves/springs/retainers
Arp headstuds

Expect to spend in the 15-20k range to do this reliably, I’m sure I’m missing things on that list above, but that’s a general start. I’d definitely say to plan everything and buy parts once you set the plan, that way you are moving towards your end goal
 

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Seeing as you need everything for to go along with upgrading the turbo, (ie. header, up pipe, downpipe, turbo, intercooler, etc.) It really doesn't cost any more to just go rotated from the start rather than upgrade everything and stay stock location. ETS makes pretty nice premade kits you can order. Or if you have a good fabricator nearby you can do a completely custom set up. If you're dead set against doing ethanol (because you could just order a 55 gal drum or 2 of One Ethanol e85 and be set for a while) maybe consider doing a water/meth injection set up with pump gas. It will bump the octane rating of your gas, cool the intake charge a bit, cool the cylinder temps, create a more even fuel burn in the cylinders and steam clean the inside of your cylinders. Just be sure to get a quality kit. It's the kind of thing that if it fails under boost and you don't have a failsafe then you could very well cook your motor. But it can absolutely give you a nice safety buffer when trying to push pump gas hard.
 

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What type of dyno are you referring to when you say you want 400-450? I ask because on 93, without going rotated, that will be laggy, and the car would be more fun hitting a little less power (360-380 ish on a dynojet) because of how fast it can spool. My roomate and I both had gd STi’s with nearly identical motors, he had an fp red, I had a 20g xtr. Mine made 365-370ish whp, his made 430whp on the same dyno, both of us agreed mine was much more fun on the street even though his was faster because of the lag difference.

i say all that to help guide you and give you something to think about with the following questions:

1- rotated or stock location?
2- budget?
3- would you sacrifice some of that power for spool? Or do you need to hit that 400-450? And if so on what dyno?


also, yes you can still tune this on cobb with greenspeed, you will need to retain all emissions related items to do so, I think you can still delete them in ecu tek (but you’d have to find a tuner willing, some see this as a liability), and you can definitely delete emissions codes with opensource or a standalone, again if you can find a tuner willing.
I have the literal exact same experience haha. I've got a buddy with a fp red setup making 470hp dynojet, I have a blouch 20gxtr making 325hp mustang dyno.

My car is a million times more responsive on the street and an overall better driving experience. On the straightaways top end he's got me all day but his turbo doesn't start spooling until 4k. Mine hits full boost at 35-3600 and holds it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok. So to get the best suggestion, I’d need to know dyno type, as they can read vastly differently. For that power level, on a stock location turbo, you’ll likely need to go with a blouch dom 3 xtr. That turbo will be laggy on pump. And fp red can do it too, maybe an fp black.

on the lower end of 400, a blouch 1.5 xtr will get you to about 390, maybe right at 400 on pump, spool a lot faster and be a lot more fun.

you’ll also need a lot of supporting mods from where you are at now and a built motor to support that reliably.I may be missing some, but the list would roughly be:

equal length header (go killer b)
Up pipe (preferably with Ewg)
Downpipe (cobb gesi)
Big maf intake (ks tech)
Turbo inlet (killer b)
Tgv housings (iag)
3 port ebcs
Fuel pump (aem or warlboro)
Injectors (1050s, or 1300s if you ever plan on e85)
Killer b oil pickup+baffle combo
Turbo (to be decided)
Built shortblock (iag is my suggestion, there are others that are quality)
Upgraded valves/springs/retainers
Arp headstuds

Expect to spend in the 15-20k range to do this reliably, I’m sure I’m missing things on that list above, but that’s a general start. I’d definitely say to plan everything and buy parts once you set the plan, that way you are moving towards your end goal
The tgv housings, does that mean tgv deletes? Because I don’t want to do tgv deletes since tuners can’t tune with out them anymore. I also have the that same Cobb dp just haven’t put it on yet, I wanted to get everything first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Seeing as you need everything for to go along with upgrading the turbo, (ie. header, up pipe, downpipe, turbo, intercooler, etc.) It really doesn't cost any more to just go rotated from the start rather than upgrade everything and stay stock location. ETS makes pretty nice premade kits you can order. Or if you have a good fabricator nearby you can do a completely custom set up. If you're dead set against doing ethanol (because you could just order a 55 gal drum or 2 of One Ethanol e85 and be set for a while) maybe consider doing a water/meth injection set up with pump gas. It will bump the octane rating of your gas, cool the intake charge a bit, cool the cylinder temps, create a more even fuel burn in the cylinders and steam clean the inside of your cylinders. Just be sure to get a quality kit. It's the kind of thing that if it fails under boost and you don't have a failsafe then you could very well cook your motor. But it can absolutely give you a nice safety buffer when trying to push pump gas hard.
I’ll definitely look more into that, I’ll have to talk more to my mechanic about it
 

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The tgv housings, does that mean tgv deletes? Because I don’t want to do tgv deletes since tuners can’t tune with out them anymore. I also have the that same Cobb dp just haven’t put it on yet, I wanted to get everything first.
Iag makes tgv housings that flow better, but retain the actual tgvs so it can be tuned after greenspeed.

as was stated, rotated would be better for sure. The oem hotside that comes with any stock location turbo is incredibly restrictive. A garrett gtx3071 should get you to the goal. I’d suggest a .82hotside. All v band.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Iag makes tgv housings that flow better, but retain the actual tgvs so it can be tuned after greenspeed.

as was stated, rotated would be better for sure. The oem hotside that comes with any stock location turbo is incredibly restrictive. A garrett gtx3071 should get you to the goal. I’d suggest a .82hotside. All v band.
Ooooh got it, so I’ll most like do that then. Thank you a lot for the help!
 

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$15K-20K Ouch! I get it on an older car, but on a newer car such as 2020, I'd rather just get a different car. Adding $20k to the STI's $40K price tag get's you a whole lot of car.
 

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$15K-20K Ouch! I get it on an older car, but on a newer car such as 2020, I'd rather just get a different car. Adding $20k to the STI's $40K price tag get's you a whole lot of car.
The performance per dollar in these things really isn’t that great lol. The motor is the expensive part there. Honestly if you want a bunch of fun over stock turbo an 18g with a conservative tune will net 330-340 whp and be plenty reliable and very very fun.
 

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$15K-20K Ouch! I get it on an older car, but on a newer car such as 2020, I'd rather just get a different car. Adding $20k to the STI's $40K price tag get's you a whole lot of car.
This is exactly why my 2020 STi is just Stage 1 Protuned right now with suspension and wheels and tires, and that’s still $10k in mods. I keep debating taking the next step. Stock location turbo on OEM RA motor and supporting mods to run E85 with labor and tuning is another $12k about. If you want a built motor installed is close to $8-$10k.

Thats about $70k. you would have a sick STi for sure but for the same $$$, you could get a new M2 or CPO G80 M3, used GT350, New Supra, Mustang Darkhorse, and the list goes on and a lot of those cars make HUGE power with just a tune, not requiring $30k in parts.

I love the STI. I’ve had 3 of them since 2007. Amazing all around performer, pretty reliable, practical, cheap to Mod and repair. Excellent as an all weather, only car.
 

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This is exactly why my 2020 STi is just Stage 1 Protuned right now with suspension and wheels and tires, and that’s still $10k in mods. I keep debating taking the next step. Stock location turbo on OEM RA motor and supporting mods to run E85 with labor and tuning is another $12k about. If you want a built motor installed is close to $8-$10k.

Thats about $70k. you would have a sick STi for sure but for the same $$$, you could get a new M2 or CPO G80 M3, used GT350, New Supra, Mustang Darkhorse, and the list goes on and a lot of those cars make HUGE power with just a tune, not requiring $30k in parts.

I love the STI. I’ve had 3 of them since 2007. Amazing all around performer, pretty reliable, practical, cheap to Mod and repair. Excellent as an all weather, only car.
Not sure where you’re getting these prices. Built motor is accurate. The rest seems high.
 

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Not sure where you’re getting these prices. Built motor is accurate. The rest seems high.
Brand new quality parts, labor and tuning. Maybe slightly high estimate but always plan on spending more than expected. My stage 1 pro tuned STi has over $10k parts, labor, tuning, but almost half of that is on wheel and tire set up. Also, Coilivers, sways, control arms, exterior pieces, etc.
 

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Brand new quality parts, labor and tuning. Maybe slightly high estimate but always plan on spending more than expected. My stage 1 pro tuned STi has over $10k parts, labor, tuning, but almost half of that is on wheel and tire set up. Also, Coilivers, sways, control arms, exterior pieces, etc.
I’m just shocked because my built 20g STi has like 16k-17k in parts (not including suspension) and if I spent the same on a different turbo I could easily be in the 400s. but I see you also included suspension so I was thinking power alone and was like dude that’s too much lol. I guess with “stages” I didn’t consider suspension cause usually it’s a power/engine only deal.
 
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