The correct bleed order has been dicussed many time over. Bleed furthised from the master cylinder, but the ABS is on the passenger side so that is now the furthised. So to me LR,RR,LF,RF. Those handpumps stink use a power bleeder or the old two man system. Make sure you bleed the brembos inside bleeder first then the outside second. Make sure the bleed hose you use fits tight or put a zip tie on it and bleeder screw.The only way I know to purge the ABS on subie's is after bleeding go out and stomp on the breaks on a slippery surface to activate the system, otherwise the remaing fluid is minimum, don't worry about it.
need help bleeding gr sti brakes..
I finally found the correct bleed order, which was right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I tried to use the little hand held mightyvac which turned into a headache. I ended up using the pump to build vaccumm, then would open the nipple. My question is should the brake fluid eventually start to just flow out of the caliber with no air? I left it on one corner for 30 minutes and bubbles were still coming out. The little container on the pump never filled up on some of the corners. Some had more fluid come out then others, but none of them just ran out with no bubbles. Also what about the abs system, do you have to open the pump up or do you just bleed them like I did. Any help would be appreciated I've been working on this for over a week at 5 hours a day!!!! I'm ready to kill this car!
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Absolutely correct.The correct bleed order has been dicussed many time over. Bleed furthised from the master cylinder, but the ABS is on the passenger side so that is now the furthised. So to me LR,RR,LF,RF.
To purge the VDC module (ABS pump) on newer Subies, you either need a Subaru Select Monitor (dealer tool) or induce a slide situation. On older Subies you could short some pins or something to cause the ABS system to do a purge, but not anymore.
So it should be bleedable without worrying about the abs? I wish I could do it the two man way but don't have anyone to sit there for an hour or so
over a week (7) x 5 hours a day= 35 hours....Good lord man. Good luck and I hope you figure out your problems.
Yeah it's been a ton of hours! I lost track. I finally got them bleed enough so where they actually work. The first 1inch and a half is completely mushy then gets firmer. I called the dealer and they only chatge 55 dollars for a brake bleeding! Wow I would have towed this thing down there!
I have a Mityvac. It's pretty useless.
The last time I did a flush I used a friends Motive Power Bleeder. It made the job super easy.
The last time I did a flush I used a friends Motive Power Bleeder. It made the job super easy.
Those handpumps stink use a power bleeder or the old two man system.:clap:
Most of the bubbles you see when using a hand pump are coming from where the hose meets the nipple. If you can tighten the hose around the nipple, you will see less bubbles. Also, if you have someone step on the pedal, you should not see bubbles. Wait-isn't that why we use a hand pump, so you don't need a pedal pusher?!?
My mityvac ended up blowing apart and was leaking everywhere! I got the 40 bucks back and put that towards the 70 dollar bill at the dealer.
So...when I went to change the brake fluid for the first time, in the reservoir filter (where you pour the fluid in) was about 2 tsp of a very thick substance, looked just like vaseline. Does anybody know what that is?
I recently added some brake fluid before this that was Lucas Synthetic Brake Fluid. Do you think it reacted with the old fluid or is it water in the old fluid that caused this gel to form?
I recently added some brake fluid before this that was Lucas Synthetic Brake Fluid. Do you think it reacted with the old fluid or is it water in the old fluid that caused this gel to form?
As far as I know you can not mix Dot 3 with synthetic.
Don't think it reacted, more like they refuse to mix n thus the emulsion
On Lucas' website it said that it was compatible with all other Dot 3 brake fluids.As far as I know you can not mix Dot 3 with synthetic.
Sounds like it's moisture accumulated in the brake fluid over time.
the reason the Mity-Vac isn't working is because it relies on SUCTION.
The nipple is NOT AIR TIGHT, thus sucking in air with the suction. This will result in a crappy brake bleed job. The fix for this is to take out your bleed nipple and clean them up, apply Teflon tape and re-insert them. Now they WILL BE AIR TIGHT and will work properly with suction type brake bleeders.
The reason pumping the pedal works without the bleed nipples Teflon taped is because now your pushing fluid out, no air being introduced into the system.
I found this out the hard way too with my Mity-Vac. After you figure this out, the unit is pretty awesome and saves a lot of time.
Good Luck.
The nipple is NOT AIR TIGHT, thus sucking in air with the suction. This will result in a crappy brake bleed job. The fix for this is to take out your bleed nipple and clean them up, apply Teflon tape and re-insert them. Now they WILL BE AIR TIGHT and will work properly with suction type brake bleeders.
The reason pumping the pedal works without the bleed nipples Teflon taped is because now your pushing fluid out, no air being introduced into the system.
I found this out the hard way too with my Mity-Vac. After you figure this out, the unit is pretty awesome and saves a lot of time.
Good Luck.
That's what I was thinking. After draining the old fluid out, I noticed there was some cloudiness to it that sank to the bottom of the jar. I hope it's just moisture.Sounds like it's moisture accumulated in the brake fluid over time.
Every Subaru I've ever worked on has had those little white flakes in the brake fluid. No idea what they are but they're gone after the first 2-3 flushes.
How often do you think it should be done?Every Subaru I've ever worked on has had those little white flakes in the brake fluid. No idea what they are but they're gone after the first 2-3 flushes.
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