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Nooooooooo staahp lol

I haven't even got the new sb yet and I'm already thinking about checking the oil lol
haha.

Yeah its horrible in the winter, especially when its ~15 to 25 degrees. I actually had my DAM drop cause I got lazy and left before it warmed up and it thought it was knocking :lol:
 

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I have one of the very first IAG blocks machined in house. I'm not saying that was good or bad, but it was quiet for almost 20K Now nearing 40K when very cold, say under 20F it sounds like a diesel, but not even for a minute. Like Yamaha I might have been served as well with a stock block. My car is not what we consider high power these days.

Recently I've gained a new noise - which might be rod knock :) Comes and goes, only when hot at idle. I need to decide whether to pull it apart before it goes. With the WRX and Race Van (Savana) on the road we would have a spare car, though the Savana is not an Ideal commuter car for me.
 

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Definitely following. Please keep me posted. I’m fairly new to the community and dreaming about when I start tuning. I have even went on IAG and Cosworth websites to look at small blocks for a replacement when mine eventually goes to greener pastures. This has been an interesting read and looking forward to updates.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I have one of the very first IAG blocks machined in house. I'm not saying that was good or bad, but it was quiet for almost 20K Now nearing 40K when very cold, say under 20F it sounds like a diesel, but not even for a minute. Like Yamaha I might have been served as well with a stock block. My car is not what we consider high power these days.

Recently I've gained a new noise - which might be rod knock :) Comes and goes, only when hot at idle. I need to decide whether to pull it apart before it goes. With the WRX and Race Van (Savana) on the road we would have a spare car, though the Savana is not an Ideal commuter car for me.
im at 25k on my block, and I've noticed that even at warm it slaps at idle a bit.
 

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I'm around 5k and it's a little noticeable when warm in the lower RPM range. My plan is to get what I can get out of this motor before likely going back to a stick block or a closed deck, with tighter clearances.

I do think the Manley drop-in pistons are undersized... I could see that after install when I could see the top of the compression ring when the piston was lower in the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm around 5k and it's a little noticeable when warm in the lower RPM range. My plan is to get what I can get out of this motor before likely going back to a stick block or a closed deck, with tighter clearances.

I do think the Manley drop-in pistons are undersized... I could see that after install when I could see the top of the compression ring when the piston was lower in the cylinder.
Have you ever helped someone from the forums do a rebuild before? Is that something that interests you?

I can't do a build in my neighborhood so I'd have to do it wherever you build your motors. It'd be nice to avoid the fees of a shop, but I wouldn't mind paying something for your help.

I can afford a shortblock right now. I just can't afford the shop labor on top.

People on this site really seem to admire your nawlidge with these kors so that's why im asking
 

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I'm around 5k and it's a little noticeable when warm in the lower RPM range. My plan is to get what I can get out of this motor before likely going back to a stick block or a closed deck, with tighter clearances.

I do think the Manley drop-in pistons are undersized... I could see that after install when I could see the top of the compression ring when the piston was lower in the cylinder.
agreed.

cant wait to send this block in and get it Closed deck. then we can turn this bitch up!
 

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I'm around 5k and it's a little noticeable when warm in the lower RPM range. My plan is to get what I can get out of this motor before likely going back to a stick block or a closed deck, with tighter clearances.

I do think the Manley drop-in pistons are undersized... I could see that after install when I could see the top of the compression ring when the piston was lower in the cylinder.
Have you ever helped someone from the forums do a rebuild before? Is that something that interests you?

I can't do a build in my neighborhood so I'd have to do it wherever you build your motors. It'd be nice to avoid the fees of a shop, but I wouldn't mind paying something for your help.

I can afford a shortblock right now. I just can't afford the shop labor on top.

People on this site really seem to admire your nawlidge with these kors so that's why im asking
Once I have my large garage space built, I might be more willing to help with this stuff, but currently, I can't help without putting myself out and I am unwilling to do that anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
My last update until im ready to actually do the build. Then once I do I'll start posting info on how it went and things to look out for.

People usually only post when their having issues, I'd like to do the opposite. I also feel this could help other people who want to avoid race car type rebuilds.

I went over to speedy roo to at least check out the shop, cause I didn't get a very good impression from Google maps. It looked like any ordinary independent shop. It turned out to be a really cool legit Subaru tuner shop, they were even having a dyno day weekend with dozens of built sti's including some rare subarus.
I ended up talking to Dave and he was pretty genuine.
We talked about the type ra swaps and how people are loving them.

Perrin inlet
Fuel stumble kit
Cobb intake
Cobb ap
Cobb 1050 inj
Cobb 3 port bcs
Spark plugs
Hks bov for the lolz
Invidia ridiculous dual tip exhaust from turbo back
Cobb 20g
Equal length headers :c <- super sad face
Secondary air block offs
Tgv deletes
Killer b oil pan upgrades
ARP2000 head studs

I'll most likely have it tuned by Boostcreep a little further upstate from me. And I'll really let them at it as many times as they need until they feel it's got a bullet proof tune. I'm also going the e85 route. But I'll most likely never buy anything from Cobb ever again. Over priced rebranded parts

And I swear to f**** g** if it blows up again im going to drive it off a cliff

See you guys in a couple months!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Update

I'm getting rid of it. Fuck this car

Never touching another piece of shit Subaru again in my life. Cars are a waste of money
Anything with an engine is a god damn waste of money.

I'm putting this 10 grand I saved into buying my first house.

Fuck subaru

Love isn't what makes a Subaru a Subaru.

Blown ring landings and blown head gaskets and greedy ass Japanese CEOs are what make a Subaru a Subaru

Never again in my life

PEAAAAACE I'm out
 

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Update

I'm getting rid of it. Fuck this car

Never touching another piece of shit Subaru again in my life. Cars are a waste of money
Anything with an engine is a god damn waste of money.

I'm putting this 10 grand I saved into buying my first house.

Fuck subaru

Love isn't what makes a Subaru a Subaru.

Blown ring landings and blown head gaskets and greedy ass Japanese CEOs are what make a Subaru a Subaru

Never again in my life

PEAAAAACE I'm out
I feel like he's holding back...
 

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Update

I'm getting rid of it. Fuck this car

Never touching another piece of shit Subaru again in my life. Cars are a waste of money
Anything with an engine is a god damn waste of money.

I'm putting this 10 grand I saved into buying my first house.

Fuck subaru

Love isn't what makes a Subaru a Subaru.

Blown ring landings and blown head gaskets and greedy ass Japanese CEOs are what make a Subaru a Subaru

Never again in my life

PEAAAAACE I'm out

hes not wrong. Anything with an engine is a waste of money haha
 

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greed? at least subaru sells cars that you can buy voluntarily..

greed is the government confiscating your money and returning no value. there is no virtue in forced charity.

good call on the house.. do it!

#EndTheFed.
 

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Even though the OP is out, I would like to give my opinion maybe it could be useful for someone else reading this. Its important to mod a car in a manner where it last, lots of parts work great on a dyno day but what about years after that day? All engines need are the correct amount of fuel, oil, and air (there is a lot more but that is the basics) how well those parts maintain that balance will determine how long an engine will last.

For example:
-If you put a exhaust manifold on this car it will perform great but if you're not careful with choosing the right one, or putting it together the exhaust flanges could warp and cause the car to run rich which could wash out the cylinders.
-Certain silicon turbo inlets (especially perrin) work great for the first year or so but the metal inserts in the tube will become loose and cause vacuum leaks causing the car to run lean.
-Lots of aftermarket blow off valves can leak.
-External Waste Gates though provide great boost control have V-Band flanges that may leak metered exhaust causing the car to run rich.

All of those examples are common mods which can cause the candle to be burned at the other end of engine longevity.

A tuner many years ago told me a major key to engine longevity was making sure the Air Fuel Ratio remains at the desired amount for the life of the car. The challenge is making sure the parts you choose to put on your car will accommodate the AFR for the life of the motor. Including the sensors that monitor should have an ability to meter the air at its densest form or thinnest form.

Ive owned my 2005 sti for about 10 years and during those years its been.... stage 1 / 2 / an 18g / FP Green / FP red / Full Race / and two engines along with all the supporting mods. The examples I mentioned above (and many more) all happened to me through this cars mod path. The OP's mod list he suggested was a very good foundation to ensuring a long and happy motor years to come. Wether it was something to be happy with, or taking the car further years down the road. Most of those mods will still be there and be reliable along the way.

I would also like to be clear that looking back at it all with my car and the things Ive done to it. I would either leave it relativity stock and enjoy it, or go all out. There's a lot of advantages to simplifying this car with fuel and air delivery from a rotated turbo / top feed fuel setup / with a decent exhaust manifold to be had verses keeping it in stock form. And just because you do go all out it does not have to make big power it just means you choose the right parts that have a capability to make a lot of power but more importantly have the capability to be reliable years down the road. Personally the idea of a big power subaru is something I am not interested in as its still heavy 4 cylinder at the end of the day. If I wanted a fast competitive car I would shoot for a light car with a larger displacement engine than my sti.
 
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