Alright so I have been researching STis for a good 6 months and finally laid out my plans. Now chances are I may have gone a bit overboard, but that's what your feedback is for. Also don't mind if some parts are under the wrong category...
Engine / Intake:
· APS CAI 70mm
· Greddy Oil Catch Can
· NGK One Step Colder Plugs
· TGV deletes
· STI Radiator Cap
· Samco Rad Hoses
Turbocharger & Induction:
· TEC 20G 8cm^2 hot side, 3” inlet, wrapped
· APS Turbo Inlet
· APS DR 525 FMIC (Maybe Perrin or TXS?)
· Turbosmart 38mm EWG
· Tial BOV
· Turbosmart E-boost2
Sorry I meant an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, like an aeromotive adjustable FPR. The stock regulator may decide not to maintain a consistant fuel pressure with the larger injectors and fuel pump. Fuel pressure may get too high and then something will break.
What can i say, you put down amazing numbers :tup:. There are a few similarities to yours, yes. Your numbers are what convinced me to go 20G, and I've heard many good things about Tial. The difference is you have yours, i don't have mine .
Ok some questions I have.
-Are equal length headers going to make that much of a difference? For one they are expensive, and another, as lame as it sounds I am in love with the boxer sound.
-Is a dual oil catch can setup a better idea?
-I have read that using meth AND one step colder plugs isn't a good idea, true/false?
-I have also heard Utec isn't the best EM system, BUT, I NEED to have something to switch maps on the fly, or if not, in a short amount of time. I wouldn't be running the meth daily. Only when I want to have fun or when it's track time.
-What could I get that would make meth safer? Anything that switches maps instantly upon realizing meth malfunction?
A Green does sound tempting, but I haven't really looked into them much more. Then people will probably say I should just go for the Red already.... I would have to learn how much later a Green spools and how much more power it makes. I'm not much of a straight line guy, and the kind of power this setup would make would already cause many spinouts I'm sure
in my opinion ...utec FTL.:tdown: if i wanted switchable maps i would go the AP route. i think a 44mm ewg is a bit overkill for a 20g. and if youre gonna get a fmic...get a FMIC!!!! dr725 or bust if you must go the APS route, although i think Perrin and TXS give the same performace for mucho less dinero. and if i were gonna buy headers...i would spend less than half and get coated Gruppe-s headers...i have them and LOVE them!!!! but hey thats my own opinion and you know what they say about them, they are like buttholes everyone has them and most of them stink....:lol:
in my opinion ...utec FTL.:tdown: if i wanted switchable maps i would go the AP route. i think a 44mm ewg is a bit overkill for a 20g. and if youre gonna get a fmic...get a FMIC!!!! dr725 or bust if you must go the APS route, although i think Perrin and TXS give the same performace for mucho less dinero. and if i were gonna buy headers...i would spend less than half and get coated Gruppe-s headers...i have them and LOVE them!!!! but hey thats my own opinion and you know what they say about them, they are like buttholes everyone has them and most of them stink....:lol:
Yeah i've heard bad things about utec but most of the posts I read were old so I put it in there to see if maybe the bugs had been worked out. But this is good news to me since AP is cheaper. Now the the WG has been brought to my attention twice I'll look into it further, probably switch to a 38mm. I was figuring a DR 725 would be overkill for sure, maybe i'm wrong. I'll look into Perrin and TXS. And as far as the headers go I thought that switching out headers wouldn't make much of a difference unless you go equal length.
I know firsthand that there is almost an exact 500rpm difference (3500 rpms as opposed to 4000rpms) in spool up time from a 2.4" 20g and a 2.4" green. As far as the 3" I can't say for sure, but I would imagine it would hit full boost faster than a 2.4" inlet green, maybe almost as fast as a 2.4" 20g..
the size of the wastegate doesn't have to do with the size of the turbo, so a bigger turbo doesn't necessarily need a big wastegate and same thing with a smaller turbo. It has to do with how much boost your running. High boost on any turbo should be used with a smaller wastegate, and low boost on any sized turbo should run a bigger wastegate.
I know firsthand that there is almost an exact 500rpm difference (3500 rpms as opposed to 4000rpms) in spool up time from a 2.4" 20g and a 2.4" green. As far as the 3" I can't say for sure, but I would imagine it would hit full boost faster than a 2.4" inlet green, maybe almost as fast as a 2.4" 20g..
The 38 2 bolt flang WILL leak in time. The 44 V-band will not.
No need for a FPR the stock one is fine with a 255 even the boucher evo pump. The only reason for an adjustable one is if you want even more fuel than the 720's will give with WI and a 20G that should not be needed. If you do the 255 pump will NOT be enough to sustain FP at high IDC.
UTEC isnt a bad EM. and there is a new software out that fixes the old problems it had. my suggestion is talk to your tuner and see what they are most comfortable with.
Uh oh... after doing some more reading I may be tempted to go for an SZ49 instead. With a 3" inlet and the fatboy option, it would surely spool as well as a 20G, no? If you ask me, 3500rpm would be the ideal spooling point.
Uh oh... after doing some more reading I may be tempted to go for an SZ49 instead. With a 3" inlet and the fatboy option, it would surely spool as well as a 20G, no? If you ask me, 3500rpm would be the ideal spooling point.
That's exactly the same question that I have been pondering. The combination of a 3" inlet and the fatboy wheel should significantly reduce the SZ49's lag... how far though I wish I knew.
would it pay to toss a built block on top of that setup? i really want the ultimate low end torque monster.
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