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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings all.

This is by build plan for my 2006 STI. It's going to be a street/light track build. Most of it is final. Still need to look back at a few items. I'm first going to rebuild the block with stronger components, but keep the block shell. Then, begin the road to 400hp (or slightly more, looking at what I got).

In fact, many items here are replacements of stock parts bound to break; since its the hawkeye's that old. I want this thing to last for years. I also want to take it on the track periodically (once every 3 months). Because I'm a college student, it'll be years before I even get one, but at least I'll know where I'm starting. If y'all believe I left anything out, let me know.


Video game vision (the game used has the closest to accurate body parts of build plan):
61229

61230


Oh, the last thing will be topping it all off with a white metallic coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Performance - VERY FIRST MODS (engine block):

GSC Power
  • Intake & Exhaust Valve Guides (Stopper Style)
  • Division Single Beehive Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers

HKS
- Fine Tuning V Belt

IAG
- Competition Series EJ Belt Tensioner

King Engine
- Main, Rod, Thrust Bearings

LIC Motorsports
- Alumninum Cylinder Head Plugs

Manley
  • 83mm Stroker Crankshaft
  • Race Flo Intake Valves

PERRIN
- Lightweight Crank Pulley

Subaru OEM:
- 2.5L Oil Pump

Tomei

  • 1010mm x 07mm Head Gaskets
  • Poncam Camshafts
  • Timing Belt
  • Timing Belt Guide

Torque Solution
  • Timing Belt Guide
  • Cylinder 4 Coolant Mod

Wiseco
  • 99.5 Forged Pistons
  • 130.5mm Boostline Piston Rods





Performance - THE MAIN COURSE (engine bay, transmission,handling) :

Aeromotive
- Side Feed Fuel Rail System bundle (Lines, Rails, O-Rings)

Beatrush:
- Shaft Mount Bushings

Boomba:
- DBW Throttle Body

COBB:
- Stage 2 Bundle (Accessport, Intake, Intake Airbox, Intake MAF Hose, Turbo Heat Shield, 3" Downpipe)

  • High Flow Filter
  • Pitch Stop Mount
  • Front & Rear Shifter Bushings
  • AOS
  • Throttle Body Hose
  • 4 BAR MAP Sensor Kit
  • Reverse Lockout Pull

Cusco:
  • Sports Oil Filter
  • 22mm Front Sway Bars
  • 22mm Rear Sway Bars
  • Type II Lower Arm Brace
  • Lower Rear Power Braces
  • Lower Center Power Brace
  • Brake Cylinder Stopper
  • Rear Lower Subframe Bar
  • 1.5 Type RS LSD
  • Rear Differential cover R180 (Silver)
  • Stainless Steel Clutch Cable
  • Rear Trailing Arms
  • Rear Laternal Links (Front and Rear)

DeatschWerks:
  • DW300 Fuel Pump
  • Fuel Filter

Driveshaft Shop:
  • Front CV Axle Bar
  • Rear CV Axle Bar

Duralift:
- Platnum Battery 35-AGM (Size 35)

Exedy:

  • Release Bearing
  • Lightweight Flywheel
  • Stg 1 Organic Cluch Kit

GrimmSpeed:

- Top Mount Intercooler and splitter

- Y-pipe

- Gaskets (Intercooler Y-Pipe, Turbo-Downpipe, Downpipe-Catback, and Throttle Body)


HKS:
- SSQV Blow-Off Valve

IAG:
Turbo Rotated Power Steering Line

Kartboy:
  • Transmission Mount Bushings
  • Front and Rear Endlinks

Killer B:
- Aluminum Oil Pan Bundle (Oil Pan, Windage Tray, Pickup Pipe)


Mishimoto:
  • X-Line Performance Aluminum Radiator
  • Radiator Hoses (Black)
  • Oil Cooler Kit (Stealth Black)
  • Aluminum Coolant Expansion Tank
  • 154 Degree Thermostat


NGK:

- Iridium One Step Colder Spark Plugs

PST:
- Carbon Fiber Driveshaft


Samco Sport:
- Power Steering hose

Stoptech (will have all my braking system):

  • Stainless steel brake lines
  • ST-40 big brake kit (For front) (slotted; yellow or blue calipers; whichever color's avilable when I'm ready)
  • ST-20 big brake kit (For rear) (slotted; yellow or blue calipers; whichever color's avilable when I'm ready)

Subaru OEM:
- Water Pump

Super Pro:
- Front Lower Control Arms

Tein:
- Flex Z Coilovers

Tomei:
  • Expreme Ti Catback
  • Turbo Inlet
  • Expreme UEL Headers

Torque Solution:
  • Engine Mounts
  • Transmission Mounts
  • Rear Diffrential Brace
  • Throttle Body Spacer

Turbosmart:
  • Silicone Coupler
  • Comp-Gate40 EWG (blue; will not tune to flutter)

Whiteline:
  • Steering Rack Bushings
  • Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit
  • Subframe Locking Bolts
  • Rear Trailing Arm Front / Lower Rear Bushings
  • Front Pitch Stop Mount
  • Rear Sway Bar Mounts

Zero/Sports:
  • V-Earthing Grounding Kit
  • V-Effector Voltage Stabilizer
  • V-Two-Point Muffler Ground



Performance - FINAL MODS (because they require protuning; will make trip to a tuner once all are acquired):
Aeromotive:
- Fuel Regulator (will get with side feed system bundle)


Cobb:
  • Boost Solenoid (Will get with WRX Stage 2 Bundle)
  • 4 BAR MAP Sensor


DeatschWerks:

- 850cc Injectors


Okada Projects:

- Plasma Direct Coil Packs

Snow Performance:
- Stage 2 Boost Cooler Water-Methanol

Tomei:
- ARMS MX8265 Turbo (not a protuning part, but if I got this earlier, the OEM fuel injectors will have a hard time running it.)


TIRES & RIMS:

Falken:
- Zeix ZE960 All Seasons

Hankook:
- Ventus RS4 (for track use only)

Rays - (gram LIGHTS):
- 57FXZ (18in, Super Dark Gunmetal Black)



BODY:

Chargespeed:
- Half Composite Wing 3D Carbon (Top Half)

Ings +1:
- Rear bumper Mud Gaurds

Seibon Carbon:
- Rear Diffuser (if there's a way to tuck it under the Ings mud gaurds)

Spec-D:
- Projector Headlights (replacing halogen bulbs w/ LEDs)

Subaru OEM:
- JDM Tailights (replacing halogen bulbs w/ LEDs)

Voltex:
  • Front bumper
  • Side skirts

An LED light bar for the spoiler tailgiht

ENGINE BAY COSMETICS:

COBB:
- Delrin Oil Cab

Greddy:
- Carbon Fiber Hood Struts

Mishimoto:
  • Battery Tie Down (Black)
  • 1.3 Bar Radiator Cap (with temperature gauge)

PERRIN:
- Belt Cover (Black)


INTERIOR:

Cobb
- Short Throw Shifter

Kenwood (all of my audio system):
  • eXcelon DDX396 Dashboard reciever
  • KFC-1396PS Front Speakers
  • KFC-16666S Rear Speakers

Carbon fiber-like steering wheel cover
(https://www.amazon.com/Elantrip-Ste...c22c1c87ac3693db233ef22551b99b&language=en_US)

SMY:
-ClusterMaker gauge pod

Subaru OEM:
- STI Limited seats from stinkeye generation (because why go through the trouble of importing Recaro Sporsters w/ airbags when there's that)


SAFETY:

License Plate backup cam (https://www.amazon.com/License-Wireless-LASTBUS-Universal-Waterproof/dp/B07XBC8B56)

LED bars for dashboard footwells (I'll know where the clutch and brake are at night)
 

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WoW! TMI! You have a great list. Lots of top quality parts and excellent choices. Have you ever done this before or is anyone helping you? I'll make a few observations and ask a few things:
Why side-feed injectors and so small? OTOH, a DeatschWerk 200 pump is very adequate at 255 LPH (you don't want fuel recirculating that fast).
4 BAR MAP Sensor is overkill. The stock is fine. Was just talking to a tuner about this and more bars decreases resolution when tuning. You will need about 22 PSI to make 400, so you have 29 already.
I am not familiar with a ARMS MX8265 Turbo. I had to look it up The specs seem odd to me. I doubt it would be well-suited for the track as it will poop out quickly. Fine for street.
Don't know the cams and you don't say which ones. The 143070 look decent. Your setup will be capable of over 7K, but the turbo won't.
Run a Fluidamper, not a lightweight pulley. Make everything else in the drivetrain light (as you have done)
I prefer SuperPro over Whiteline. Whiteline's quality has gone down.
That's a start.
My race car build journal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
WoW! TMI! You have a great list. Lots of top quality parts and excellent choices. Have you ever done this before or is anyone helping you? I'll make a few observations and ask a few things:
Why side-feed injectors and so small? OTOH, a DeatschWerk 200 pump is very adequate at 255 LPH (you don't want fuel recirculating that fast).
4 BAR MAP Sensor is overkill. The stock is fine. Was just talking to a tuner about this and more bars decreases resolution when tuning. You will need about 22 PSI to make 400, so you have 29 already.
I am not familiar with a ARMS MX8265 Turbo. I had to look it up The specs seem odd to me. I doubt it would be well-suited for the track as it will poop out quickly. Fine for street.
Don't know the cams and you don't say which ones. The 143070 look decent. Your setup will be capable of over 7K, but the turbo won't.
Run a Fluidamper, not a lightweight pulley. Make everything else in the drivetrain light (as you have done)
I prefer SuperPro over Whiteline. Whiteline's quality has gone down.
That's a start.
My race car build journal.
No. Never done this. Will need help on some of the parts. Especially ones that need pro-tuning.

At first, I chose the Blouch Dominator 1.5, but switched to Tomei ARMS because I wasn't sure if the Tomei silicone hose would fit the Dominator.

Side feed injectors because I'm not interested in permanently shaping the engine to accommodate top feed. Would've gone for a 2007 Hawkeye since it already has top feed setup from factory. The 850CC because OEM fitment in fuel rails. I don't want anything that won't fit OEM.

Tomei Cams are for EJ25 blocks. All I can find if you wanted different info.

.
 

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I was of the mind that you seem to be at times in my life. Now I just appreciate a car as an engineering marvel, but I don't put it on a pedestal or call it my baby. A 2006 is almost a 2007. Why not take a cue from Subaru and switch to top-feed?
Nothing should be inviolate. If you save your parts there is nothing you can't undo. Speaking of parts as needing pro-tuning is short-sighted. It's a package that needs balance and proper pairing so there is no bottleneck or strain on any single component. What we do is far from synchronicity. To get it right it is deliberate and calculated and good engineering.
You've done half the work with the parts lists you've put together. That involved some effort. Resisting putting in a better and necessary fuelling system is hurting you. Also, a silicone hose is the least of your worries.
You are willing to rework the whole suspension and drivetrain. Do that with all of the engine.
A Blouch 2.5 or 3.0 would be an excellent choice for 400 HP. See Cobb's dyno database and enter Blouch for the search term. I've had two 2.5's with 10CM housings and I've been very pleased with them on the street and on the track. One was my [email protected] 390 and the other was my GR (DAVCS) @ 395 HP. Both conservative tunes so they would last on the track on pump gas.
Look into Ron Davis radiators which can include the oil cooler. Eliminate the water/oil heat exchanger and run a remote oil filter. I like the Crawford V2 A/OS better than all the bling and complexity of the Cobb.
Lots of people avoid it but the front brakes need cooling on the track. Get Stoptech's Trophy BBK with floating rotors. Run Girodisc on the rear.
A wing is the last thing to add (get it sorted before adding aero) and you need a splitter in the front and canards if you add a big efficient wing. Voodoo lateral arms are first-rate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was of the mind that you seem to be at times in my life. Now I just appreciate a car as an engineering marvel, but I don't put it on a pedestal or call it my baby. A 2006 is almost a 2007. Why not take a cue from Subaru and switch to top-feed?
Resisting putting in a better and necessary fuelling system is hurting you. Also, a silicone hose is the least of your worries. You are willing to rework the whole suspension and drivetrain. Do that with all of the engine.
I'll research more on top feed fuel systems. Reason why I wanted to stay side feed with 2006 was because I heard oil cools better with pipes being mounted through the EJ. Thought I would need cool oil on the track. If I choose top feed, then I'll add a manifold swap to a 2007 one, or change the build plan to accommodate a 2007 STI (which maybe better; I'm not interested in drilling).
 

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I believe you have thorough misunderstanding of top-feed vs side feed and cooling oil . . .and someone is providing good advice.
 

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I'll research more on top feed fuel systems. Reason why I wanted to stay side feed with 2006 was because I heard oil cools better with pipes being mounted through the EJ. Thought I would need cool oil on the track. If I choose top feed, then I'll add a manifold swap to a 2007 one, or change the build plan to accommodate a 2007 STI (which maybe better; I'm not interested in drilling).
I don't know how to respond. Pipes? Not interested in drilling? Switch to an '07 because you don't want to buy top-feed parts? COBB Tuning - Subaru Side Feed to Top Feed Fuel Rail Conversion Kit with fittings STI 2004-2006, FXT 2004-2005, LGT 2005-2006
 

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I've respected "Scargo" for many years - and I just now connected you to our chats . . . and the fuel rail pics are a tour-de-force :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I don't know how to respond. Pipes? Not interested in drilling? Switch to an '07 because you don't want to buy top-feed parts? COBB Tuning - Subaru Side Feed to Top Feed Fuel Rail Conversion Kit with fittings STI 2004-2006, FXT 2004-2005, LGT 2005-2006
I did say I want to make the car last years. So I will consider getting top feed parts. It's just that getting a 2007 Hawkeye intake manifold, or a 2007 Hawkeye entirely would be my 2 choices to go from. Either way, it would open a route to add more parts I probably would need (and overlooked). Such as fuel lines/fuel pipes (put both if I got that mixed up), bigger injectors (looking at 1000cc or 1200cc), tgv delete.
 

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you don't need a different manifold . . . not even useful unless you will break 600 . . . and then its not a stock part.
 

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I did say I want to make the car last years. ...
Philosophically, having it last for years is admirable and possible. It will depend on the quality of the build, maintenance and how you drive it. 350-400 HP is not a car killer and driven sensibly can last a long time. The fact is, it's not like a race engine at 400 HP. You will spend very little percentage of time at high boost unless you rag on it all the time.
The fact that you want that power in a DD means that you don't want loose pistons that you would have if you chose a racing piston in 2618 alloy. You want something like Mahle pistons in 4032 alloy. It is this knowledge and attention to detail that will make it last and be reliable. Switching to top feed injectors, like ID1050's is all you need. You could go to 1300's, but many don't.
I have two 2007 STI's. One is at 390 HP. It does have 1,300cc ID's, cams, porting and a Blouch 2.5 XTR.
Do you even know all the differences between an '06 and '07? The '07 is worth more, since it is the last GD. Differences are minor if you are building an engine and making suspension upgrades.
Look at other's build threads and bragging rights if you haven't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
you don't need a different manifold . . . not even useful unless you will break 600 . . . and then its not a stock part.
I kind of meant an OEM 2007 manifold to swap in. No matter though. The build plan now is set for a 2007 Hawkeye. Based on my entire plan, I'm likely making more than 400hp. I estimate I'll have 415hp maximum.

Things were added (represented by A), and replaced/deviated from the original plan for 2006 Hawkeye (represented by R). So far, I'm still searching parts, but I believe this might be final.

Performance - VERY FIRST MODS (engine block):

Fluidampr
- Crank Pulley (R)

  • Viton Valve Stem Seals (A)
  • Valve Spring Seats (A)

IAG (ARP):
- 14mm Head Studs (A)

Mahle
- Valve Covers (A)

Tomei
  • Race Spec +1m Intake & Exhaust Vaulve Set (R)
  • Cam Gears (LH & RH) (A)


Performance - THE MAIN COURSE (engine bay, transmission, handling):


Beatrush:
- Front Strut Tower Bar (A) (I hope I can mount the AOS low enough for it to fit)

Exedy:
- Stage 2 Cerametallic Clutch Kit (won't buy until 350hp) (R)

GrimmSpeed:
  • Intake-TGV Gasket (A)
  • Stainless Steel AN Breather Fitting Set (A)
  • Phenolic Spacers (3mm) (A)

Koyo
- Aluminum Racing Radiator (R)

Mahle:
- Cabin Air Filter (A)


Mishimoto:
- Oil Drain Plug (A)

Process West:
  • Top Mount Intercooler Set (includes Y-Pipe and Blow-Off Valve gasket) (R)
  • Intercooler Splitter (R)

PTP Turbo Blankets:
- Turbo Blanket (Black) (A)

Radium:
- AOS (R)

Subtle Solutions:
- Fender Brace Set (A)

Torque Solution:
  • Top Feed Fuel Rails (Silver) (A)
  • Braided Fuel Line Kit (A)
  • Solid Pitch Stop Mount (R)
  • Thermal Uppipe blanket (Carbon finish) (A)
  • Short Thermal Oil Filter Blanket (A)
  • Braided Fuel Lines (-6AN) (A)

Turbosmart:
- GenV Comp-Gate40 EWG (blue; will not tune to flutter) (R)



Performance - FINAL MODS (because they require protuning; will make trip to a tuner once all are acquired):
Aeromotive:
- A1000 Fuel Regulator (A)

Blouch:
- 1.5XT-R Dominator Turbo (R)


DeatschWerks:
- 1000cc Top Feed Fuel Injectors (R)

IAG:
- TGV Delete (A)


Okada Projects:
- Plasma Spark Plugs (A)

Omni Power
- 3 Bar MAP Sensor (R)

TIRES & RIMS:

Rays (VOLK)
- Valve Stem Caps (Black) (A)



ENGINE BAY COSMETICS:

Cusco:
- Radiator Cooling Plate (A)

SuperStik:
- Percision Oil Dipstick (Gold) (A)


INTERIOR:
ProSport
  • Halo Series Electronic Boost Gauge (52mm) (A)
  • Halo Series Electronic Oil Pressure Gauge (52mm) (A)
 

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Car that you will buy, runs and drives? Do suspension and brakes first.
When I saw this and other trinkets I find it hard to take you seriously:
SuperStik:
- Percision Oil Dipstick (Gold) Sucker born every minute!
Boomba:
- DBW Throttle Body: Don't need or want this...
Torque Solution:Engine Mounts Transmission Mounts: Car will drive you and everyone crazy with NVH.
 
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