[NobleIndividual]

Hey guys! Just looking for some input on some mods I’ve been thinking of running, talked to some reputable tuners around my area they’ve recommended some parts, I’ve also done research, just looking for some input anything you would change or swap out for another? I’m planning on running around 360WHP (In the end) upper end of stock block until it inevitably blows on me. It’s a 2019 STI and I’m currently running an OTS tune with the Cobb DP and catback also from Cobb.

Now the good part, stage 2 parts I want:
FPR: Aeromotive
Intake: Cobb OR ETS (can’t decide)
EBCS: custom from neetronics
Injectors: Bosch 1000 cc
Spark plugs NGK one step cooler
Pickup and baffle: Killer B
Fuel pump: AEM
Radiator: CSF
Crank Pulley: fluidampr
Now for the controversial part, I want an aftermarket BPV, fully recirculating, it may be a waste of money, but personally it’s worth it for more noise without compromising reliability. I was thinking of going with the Grimmspeed BPV, Cobb, or forge diverter valve. I’ve listened to GrimmSpeed BPV on YouTube, I’m a little nervous because it makes a clear flutter sound, so I was assuming it was compressor surge, but GrimmSpeed is very adamant its not and its how they designed it, anyone have any experience? Because the GrimmSpeed one is the one I was leaning towards.

Stage 3 parts I want:
Verticooler (I think I’m running this over front mount, from what I’ve read no heat soak + little to no turbo lag?)
Turbo: Cbob 20g or FP blue
Turbo inlet: Perrin or GrimmSpeed
Up pipe: Tomei
ELH: killer B
EWG: Tial
4 bar sensor: OMNI
oil filler neck
water/meth injection kit
TGV deletes

Any suggestions on anything would be super great, especially with the BPV. Forgot to mention I’ll be running pro tunes with both these setups obviously.

 

[Karlot]

overall the list you have looks pretty good. i would swap out a few things here, but not much.

so far as the BPV, i have the cobb one, you can barely hear it because it recirculates, i suspect the same with any fully recirculating valve. the stock one does fine to about 23 ish psi and the cobb, while louder, is barly louder, the only time i hear it is if i listen for it and i never do when going wot, that said, if you want noise, why not switch to speed density tuning and run a fully atmospheric tial setup?

speaking of tuning, you mention tgv delets, you do realize these can not currently be tuned with cobb's greenspeed, as it's an emissions item.same with air pumps and cats. you'd have to ditch the accessport to tune this. just an fyi.

so far as the parts i'd swap out, if you are getting a killer b header, you'll need a killer b up pipe. to my knowledge, killer b doesnt make a 3 bolt up pipe option, where your up pipe being tomei, is a 3 bolt. they wont work together. just stick with a v band up pipe from killer b, you can mod it for the tial ewg if you wanted to.

for your turbo inlet, skip both listed and go with killer b, you will have a hard inlet that is smoother and will flow more air, and be 3 inch all the way through. it's a higher quality piece and will be something you never have to worry about, unlike silicone of the other two.

for the intake, skip both mentioned, find a 3' big maf intake. running into that much power on pump gas you'll be maxing out the MAF sensor, and will need a bigger intake. mine is a ks tech and it's a quality piece, but in reality these are super easy to fabricate if needed.

lastly, you need to decide on the turbo based on the end goal, you say 360 UNTIL the motor goes. what do you want when that happens? to build it? if so what is the power goal there? I have a 20g, and i'd suggest stepping up to the Blouch dom 1.5 over the 20g xtr. the spool difference is very minimal and the 1.5 will have alot more top end should you ever want more power. you can always down tune the car to keep it in the safe zone. this way you wont have to buy one turbo and then another later should you decide to build/want more power.

the above paragraph is the same thing for fuel injectors and pump. this also will come into play with what fuel you will be running. if 93, you'll be good with what's listed. if you ever plan on running e85, you may want to go with bigger injectors/pump now to support it when you eventually go e85. the price difference is minimal. but redoing it later, it's a big difference.

for intercooler, i wouldnt waste the money if you are sticking to top mount. the stock unit is good till about 450ish whp, killer b has a bunch of data they have posted on here before to back this up. but going to the verticooler is likely more of a downgrade than an upgrade. you can go fmic if you wanted to, but suggesting taht over top mount will depend on what you use the car for,

the other question is what are you doing with the car? if this is just for a fun street car cool. but if you plan on racing it, you'll want to read the class rules first to be sure you are allowed to do all of this.

 

[killerbmotorsport]

^ Great info. I concur.

 

[JWells78]

As Karlot said go with killer b for the header/ up pipe and turbo inlet. They are amazing. I personally am running the Grimmspeed BVP and have not had a issue with it. It does sound like flutter but I like that. If you are wanting to replace the TGV's IAG has some that are slightly larger and use the factory butterfly valve and can be tuned on the Accessport.

 

[Karlot]

^ Great info. I concur.

Yay I got a compliment from killer b!!!! Lol.

honestly op, if you want any part and killer b makes it, theirs will be one of, if not THE best of said part you can get.

 

[NobleIndividual]

As Karlot said go with killer b for the header/ up pipe and turbo inlet. They are amazing. I personally am running the Grimmspeed BVP and have not had a issue with it. It does sound like flutter but I like that. If you are wanting to replace the TGV's IAG has some that are slightly larger and use the factory butterfly valve and can be tuned on the Accessport.

Honestly my first option was the grimmspeed bpv, but i don’t think I’ll be able to pick one up for a few reasons, the first being I think they have a huge back order I called 4 different places everyone is on back order, 2 that flutter noise is what I want but it makes me a bit nervous because although grimmspeed says it’s not compressor surge and it’s how they designed it, I’m really not to sure.

 

[NobleIndividual]

overall the list you have looks pretty good. i would swap out a few things here, but not much.

so far as the BPV, i have the cobb one, you can barely hear it because it recirculates, i suspect the same with any fully recirculating valve. the stock one does fine to about 23 ish psi and the cobb, while louder, is barly louder, the only time i hear it is if i listen for it and i never do when going wot, that said, if you want noise, why not switch to speed density tuning and run a fully atmospheric tial setup?

speaking of tuning, you mention tgv delets, you do realize these can not currently be tuned with cobb's greenspeed, as it's an emissions item.same with air pumps and cats. you'd have to ditch the accessport to tune this. just an fyi.

so far as the parts i'd swap out, if you are getting a killer b header, you'll need a killer b up pipe. to my knowledge, killer b doesnt make a 3 bolt up pipe option, where your up pipe being tomei, is a 3 bolt. they wont work together. just stick with a v band up pipe from killer b, you can mod it for the tial ewg if you wanted to.

for your turbo inlet, skip both listed and go with killer b, you will have a hard inlet that is smoother and will flow more air, and be 3 inch all the way through. it's a higher quality piece and will be something you never have to worry about, unlike silicone of the other two.

for the intake, skip both mentioned, find a 3' big maf intake. running into that much power on pump gas you'll be maxing out the MAF sensor, and will need a bigger intake. mine is a ks tech and it's a quality piece, but in reality these are super easy to fabricate if needed.

lastly, you need to decide on the turbo based on the end goal, you say 360 UNTIL the motor goes. what do you want when that happens? to build it? if so what is the power goal there? I have a 20g, and i'd suggest stepping up to the Blouch dom 1.5 over the 20g xtr. the spool difference is very minimal and the 1.5 will have alot more top end should you ever want more power. you can always down tune the car to keep it in the safe zone. this way you wont have to buy one turbo and then another later should you decide to build/want more power.

the above paragraph is the same thing for fuel injectors and pump. this also will come into play with what fuel you will be running. if 93, you'll be good with what's listed. if you ever plan on running e85, you may want to go with bigger injectors/pump now to support it when you eventually go e85. the price difference is minimal. but redoing it later, it's a big difference.

for intercooler, i wouldnt waste the money if you are sticking to top mount. the stock unit is good till about 450ish whp, killer b has a bunch of data they have posted on here before to back this up. but going to the verticooler is likely more of a downgrade than an upgrade. you can go fmic if you wanted to, but suggesting taht over top mount will depend on what you use the car for,

the other question is what are you doing with the car? if this is just for a fun street car cool. but if you plan on racing it, you'll want to read the class rules first to be sure you are allowed to do all of this.

I’ll try and take each point at a time. So for the speed density, from the little research I’ve done it’s not great for places where temperature changes? I live in Ontario so I’m really not trying to make the car unreliable in colder weather. Also don’t really know how much more it’ll cost.

yeah forgot to mention id obviously be running a pro tune with all these mods don’t worry about that haha. As for the paragraph about the headers, dully noted will come back to this post when the time comes for stage 3.

The intake, I’m sorry could you elaborate? I’m just a little confused as to why Cobb or ets would be able to hold the power well enough.

So a few things this car is supposed to be a daily, and I want to be able to track the car for fun on some off weekends. I don’t want a tune that’s super aggressive, so I was thinking 350WHP on a tune that isn’t aggressive would at least give me a fighting chance on a non blown motor. So maybe just grabbing a turbo that’s good for around 350WHP is the best play IMO. And because there is no 85 even remotely close to me (3 hours away) id be running 93.

Mhmm I see, but if you were to run a top mount of a verti cooler which would it be? Id assume verti cooler because it has all the benefits of the top mount without having any heat soak? And unless I was pushing some really big numbers I probably wouldn’t run a front mount only because of the lag.

Let me know if any of that makes any sense haha.

 

[Karlot]

I’ll try and take each point at a time. So for the speed density, from the little research I’ve done it’s not great for places where temperature changes? I live in Ontario so I’m really not trying to make the car unreliable in colder weather. Also don’t really know how much more it’ll cost.

yeah forgot to mention id obviously be running a pro tune with all these mods don’t worry about that haha. As for the paragraph about the headers, dully noted will come back to this post when the time comes for stage 3.

The intake, I’m sorry could you elaborate? I’m just a little confused as to why Cobb or ets would be able to hold the power well enough.

So a few things this car is supposed to be a daily, and I want to be able to track the car for fun on some off weekends. I don’t want a tune that’s super aggressive, so I was thinking 350WHP on a tune that isn’t aggressive would at least give me a fighting chance on a non blown motor. So maybe just grabbing a turbo that’s good for around 350WHP is the best play IMO. And because there is no 85 even remotely close to me (3 hours away) id be running 93.

Mhmm I see, but if you were to run a top mount of a verti cooler which would it be? Id assume verti cooler because it has all the benefits of the top mount without having any heat soak? And unless I was pushing some really big numbers I probably wouldn’t run a front mount only because of the lag.

Let me know if any of that makes any sense haha.

Idk about speed density not being great in weather changes. I have heard it’s not as smooth at times, and because of that many will do a hybrid and have it run off the maf sensor on cruising and the map on wot, I’d have to do some more research into that. Killer b may know.

I figured. My point was that even with a protune the tuners can not do it with emissions items deleted. So far as the header. Killer b is the king here. You will not be disappointed.

So the Cobb/ets intakes are, to my knowledge, 2.5” all the way through. When tuning. This will max out the maf sensor, and limit the power you will make. With speed density tuning you can get away with it and make more, because the maf voltage wouldn’t be an issue. But with maf based tuning the maf voltage will max, and throw a check engine light. Meaning you’ll need a bigger maf housing to support over about 330-350whp (pending dyno). That’s why I say go with ks tech or another 3” maf. In theory you can get a bigger maf housing, like perrin makes, or used to. But it tapers at the maf, I just think it’s better to go 3” all the way through.

No worries. For 350, pending dyno. A 20g will work well. It’s what I have and I can explain more about my build if you’d like. I don’t daily it anymore. But I did for like 6 years before I got a civic for a daily. But if you want to track for fun, do whatever. But if you want to compete on track, look at class rules and see what it is you are allowed to do per class. Some won’t let you go past stock turbo, some will only allow 43lb/min. Or another sized turbo. If you do track it. Look into adding either torco, vp octanium or a few gallons of race gas. Not for power. But for more knock protection. You don’t have to. I just prefer this for the safety and knock protection. You won’t need to retune for torco or octanium. Just add it to the tank.


Verti cooler or not, with an intercooler on top of the motor, you’ll have heat soak. No way around it. You can get a c02 fogger kit with a wot switch to help cool it. But recovery when moving is what’s important. I still think sticking oem for the top mount is the best bet.

Also. A front mount doesn’t necessarily add lag. This is a common misconception. The turbo still spools the same. But there is a throttle delay when stepping on it. But only on the initial hit. People think this is added lag. But when rowing through gears, you won’t notice any difference. Boost recovery will still be fast. For a daily though. I’d say go oem tmic. If you want to spend a bunch of money you could buy or build a vmount setup. This will give you the benefits of a fmic with a lot shorter piping for the benefits of the tmic. It’s just like 4k for the complete kit. Maybe less to build one. It will also get you a v mount radiator. Personally this is my favorite setup. I’m just not that rich lol.

And all of it makes sense lol. If you have follow up questions I’ll help however I can.

 

[AustinSedz]

Ontario here too.

Save yourself the trouble... don't bother with speed density on a daily that will see the odd romp.
Just stick with the bypass valve.
AFAIK, you don't need a tune for the bypass valve so if you order it now, do your build and get tuned, and when it comes in later just bolt it on and go.
It's not one of those things that you really need to worry about 'when will it come, but my build is waiting'.

I know Neetronics is pushing the ECUtek suite for tuning.
If you are already running Cobb and have a GESI downpipe, then skip the TGV deletes and get the IAG V3 TGV housings.
This way you can 'upgrade' the TGV's while keeping them Cobb compliant and keep your accessport.
If your downpipe isn't a GESI pipe, well then you are going to get a CAT CEL on a Cobb protune no matter what so yes, go ECUtek and then you can keep your current downpipe and do the TGV and air pump deletes if you want.
The only thing I don't like about ECUtek is you lose the monitoring screen on your dash.
You can get a bluetooth dongle for them but then you have to mount your phone or an ipad to the dash to run the monitors the accessport did before.

For the turbo, I would do as others have suggested.
Don't go 20g now and then when the block pops plan on upgrading, just do the big turbo now (like a dom 1.5) but turned down.
Run lower boost and then when(if) it pops just swap in a forged shortblock and turn it up to max.
Could do mid-3's now and 4+ later on the same turbo turned up if you pick the right one.

For the injectors, I assume Neetronics suggested them?
If not, confirm those are big enough for the turbo you want to run.
I know 1000/1050's will feed a 20g fine, but here again you run into the issue of doing it twice down the line.
Idk what's needed for a bigger turbo like the dom, but if 'more turbo more boost' is the plan then just go ahead and do 1300's.
Then here too, even if you run them 'turned down' for now it's fine and your ceiling down the road will be a lot higher.
Do it once and save the time and expense later.