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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Welcome to my journal. The purpose of this journal is two fold. Firstly I will be using it as a place to store information and data as well as track my progress and the status of the car. Secondly I would like to write it in such a way that the information will be useful to others. I intend to accomplish this by sharing stories, writing reviews, and also linking to other members/sites that I have found useful. Constructive comments and suggestions are welcome.

I've had my STi since the end of 2006. I didn't do anything with it really for the first two years because of the warranty and my ex sucking most of my money away. Once the warranty was almost gone and the ex was, well, the ex I started to really enjoy the car. :lol: In 2008 I attended an autox in my then beater car (92 Honda del Sol). I was hooked, and in the beginning of 2009 I started autox'ing the STi. For 2009 I ran in B Stock (well A stock then) only picking up a front sway bar and some 275 Kumho V710's and a few other "non performance" upgrades. Partially through 2010 I had a brake line leak so I upgraded to stainless lines all around. This bumped me out of stock and wanting to continue using the V710's I opted to go to B Street Prepared. Once the 2011 season was underway I was still under prepared for BSP but I still had a blast doing it. My girlfriend, Sandi, is very supportive and has even begun autoxing as well. I have done many other mods ever since I started browsing this web site and digging in to the wealth of information that is here (see below for the full list). Thanks to all that have put this site together!


Fall 2012 update: I killed the motor at the end of the autox season at around 117.5K miles. As of December the new motor is in progress :devil:

Spring 2013 update: The motor was finished and tuned to 344 WHP and 406 WTQ. The car was also fitted with fender flares and a set of 275's and 295's both on 18X10.5" wheels. Also installed a new bigger radiator when the OEM one cracked only a week before the race season started.

Current Alignment:

Camber: -3.5F / -2.5R
Toe: 1/8" out F / 0R

Upgrades and mods that are done (Ordered/Waiting to install):

Wheels & Tires:
-Enkei RPF1 Black 18x10.5 +15 w/BFG R1-S' 315/30 r18
-Miro 398 Black 18x10.5 +20 w/Kumho Ecsta XS 275/35 r18
-Stock BBS 17X8 wheels w/ Hankook winter ipike 225 45 r17
-ARP extended wheel studs
-Muteki open ended lug nuts

Brakes:
-Hawk HP+ race pads (post #4)
-SS braided brake lines
-NAPA blank rotors
-Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace

Interior:
-Corbeau FX1 Pro's
-Schroth 4 point rally harnesses
-"STi" Seat Belt Pads
-AutoMeter Triple Gauge Glove Box Pod
-GlowShift Red LED Digital Fuel Pressure Gauge (post #98)
-GlowShift Red LED Digital Boost Gauge(post #98)
-GlowShift Red LED Digital Oil Pressure Gauge
-GlowShift Red LED Digital Oil Temp Gauge
-DIY center console dual gauge bezel (post #98)
-Power outlet/Aux port relocated to arm rest console (post #98)

Exterior:
-V Limited replica front lip (post #2)
-Disabled D.R.L. (How-to thread)
-Blacked out headlights (post #2)
-Karlton Flares!
-Grimmspeed Hood Struts

Suspension/Bushings:
-Fortune Auto V5 Coilovers 15k/15k Swift Springs
-Swift Helper springs
-Whiteline Camber Bolts (rear) (Currently uninstalled)
-Whiteline 27mm Front Swaybar (post #6)
-Whiteline 24mm Rear Swaybar (post #6) (Currently uninstalled)
-Whiteline Solid Endlinks Front (post #6)
-Whiteline Spherical Endlinks Rear
-Whiteline Steering Rack Bushing Kit
-Whiteline Rear Strut Bar
-Fortune Auto Rear Camber Plates
-04-06 Front Control Arms
-Whiteline Caster Bushings

Engine/Power/Exhaust: (fresh motor build early 2013)
-2012 Short Block
-New OEM 11mm Oil pump
-New VF43 Turbo
-Gates Timing Belt kit w/pump
-NGK I IX Spark Plugs 1 Step Colder
-MAW TGV Deletes
-SS Braided Turbo/AVCS Oil lines
-ARP Head Studs
-KillerB oil pickup/tray
-DW Injectors 850cc
-GrimmSpeed EBCS
-K&N Typhoon Intake
-ETS TMIC
-Greddy Magnetic Drain Plug
-Tomei EL Header/Up pipe kit
-B&B Cat-less Downpipe (post#41)
-Apexi WS Noir cat back exhaust
-Grimmspeed exhaust gaskets
-Cobb access port
-BrenTuning ProTune (344WHP/406WTQ)
-Boost dependent I/C spray mod (How-to thread)
-Removed intake resinator
-Air pump system deleted
-Walbro 255 fuel pump (post #63)
-Glowshift Oil Filter Sandwich Adapter
-Odyssey PC680
-Moroso AOS
-PTP Turbo Blanket
-COBB Turbo Heat Shield
-Koyo Racing radiator

Transmission/Drivetrain
-Exedy Stage 2 HD Clutch Kit
-ACT Streetlite Flywheel
-Perrin Rear Differential Bushings
-Perrin Shifter Bushings
-Torque Solutions Shifter Rear Stay Bushing
-Torqe Solutions Motor Mounts
-Torque Solutions Pitchstop
-Beatrush Transmission Mount
-Whiteline Positive Shift Bushing Kit
-OSGiken Rear Differential

Weight savings:
-Removed air pump -8.5lbs
-Downpipe -12lbs
-Spare tire and jack -30lbs
-Flywheel -11.7lbs
-Coilovers -
-Battery -16.5lbs
-Header -
-A/C Removed - 22.5lbs
-Bucket seats -

OEM curb weight - 3351
7/21/13 w/ half tank and prepped for AutoX - 3212
6/13/15 w/ half tank and prepped for AutoX - 3150
6/14/15 w/ just over 1/4 tank in AutoX prep - 3090 (60# less is too much for 1/4 tank less gas, must not have been on the scales properly)

Things I want to do next:

-More bushings
-Step up the diet: rotors, steering wheel, radio...
-Grillcraft screens


Thanks to Ed Savage and others for most of the action shots contained in this journal.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Re: Mickle's 2007 OBP STi

Some pics to show the painted headlights and tail light covers:



When painting the headlights I used the Fusion flat black. I opted to paint over the entire inner housing because the passenger side had been backed into by some idiot that just took off. In doing so they didn't break the lens but it broke the piece of plastic inside that surrounds the headlight itself. I used epoxy to put it back together before painting. Once painted you can't even see that it was broken.

Also in this pic is the replica front lip. Certainly not as nice as the real ones but considering where it is located I'd rather not spend a ton just to ruin it (it has already bottomed out twice at stock height).




The Headlight Armor covers are the 30% tint. As you can see in the pic they are very dark when in the shade. With sun light on them the bottom half becomes more transparent and has a kind of brownish tint to it. I am sure the 50% tint version looks even better but I don't need a ticket for that. Overall I am very happy with the look, I was never a fan of all the chrome (Hence the dark theme).
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Mickle's 2007 OBP STi: Brake Pads

I thought I would share my thoughts and experience with the different brake pads that I have used:

Stock Subaru: $400
Ferodo DS2500: $300
Hawk HP+: $200

Just before I stared autoxing I needed new pads. The stock set had lasted me about two years with only street driving. I called a dealership and they quoted me the $400 for the set and tried to get me to come in for a full brake job for $1000. :tdown: I passed on the offer.

After a few recommendations I decided to go with the Ferodo DS2500's. Considering that they are a better pad for autox and $100 cheaper I was happy with the idea. When I got them from KNS I found that two of the pads had been damaged inside the box. KNS got a new set right out to me just in time for the fist event of the season. As one would expect, these pads made a bit more noise and dust but had a much improved feel to them over stock. They also lasted about as long as the stock pads but this time they served as DD and autox pads so I was very happy they held up so long.

4/11:This spring while prepping the car for the beginning of the 2011 autox season I found that it was time for new pads again. This time I decided to try out the Hawk pads. I spent a little time trying to decide between the HPS and the Plus, and decided that I don't use the car for a DD as much any more that I should go for the more aggressive ones. I also replaced all four rotors this time around with new blanks. I have been using these pads for a few weeks now and couldn't be happier. Yes they are even louder and dirtier than the DS2500's but they feel even better as well. This could be partially because of the fresh rotors though. I think these pads would be overkill for people who only use the car on the street unless you get cut off as much as I do here in MA, then they come in pretty handy!

*Update*: 5/11 After a few autox's this season I am really loving these pads. They stop amazingly! I even had a chance to let someone else who had autox'ed my car before, take the car for a run. He was hugely impressed with the improved stopping power, so much that he may be getting some HP+'s for his car!

Oh, and on a side note, I have only snapped one caliper bolt off to date and was lucky enough to be able to drill it out and save the threads. Always use anti-seize!!

*Update*: 8/12 I just ordered up a new set of the HP+ for the front. I have to say, noise and dust aside, these pads lasted me very well for the money. I expect to be able to finish out this autox season with the previous set but wanted to get/have a new set ready and waiting. This means that I will get a little under two years out of a set of the fronts but that is with ~40 autox's (Avg 7 or more runs per event) on them as well as DD.

7/13/15: My estimate of a two year cycle for pads wasn't far off. Made it almost 3 years this time for the front pads. Ordered a new set today. I haven't hit the wear indicators yet but expect to soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Mickle's 2007 OBP STi

Nice car! What part of MA do you live in? Where do you auto-x?
I was living in Pepperell (near Nashua NH) but recently moved to Woburn. I autox with NER (SCCA) and Renegade Miata club. They both run mainly in the old Devens air strip in Ayer, MA.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Mickle's 2007 OBP STi: Sway bars

My sway bar story so far:

I stared off my autox experience in B Stock, and the rules there didn't allow much but front sway bars are unlimited (since then the rules have changed and you can do either the front or the rear bar). I was recommended to the large Strano bar but decided it wasn't worth the hassle of the hard to fit part as well as the worry of breaking off the mounts. I ended up ordering the Whiteline 27mm bar with endlinks. The install was straight forward and the effect was felt immediately.

Once switching out of the stock class (because of SS brake lines!) I decided to add a bigger rear bar as well, since I was running stock suspension still. I opted to stick with Whiteline and went with the 24mm adjustable bar. The feel of the car was once again improved however that's when I started consistently lifting the rear tire. Not just on the track but also anywhere on the road that I am turning and going up even a slight incline at the same time.


*I put the rear bar on the "full soft" setting but I am still having the issue. This week I will be adjusting the front bar to the softer setting before the next autox this Sat to see if it helps. I have a feeling that it will still be over powering the stock suspension and I am probably SOL until I get some coilovers or put my stock rear bar back on...

*I ran the local autox this past Sat (See post #12) with the sways bar set to soft. The car felt good but it was a very wet event so I couldn't get enough grip to get a good impression on the changes, maybe next weekend. On the road there has been a decent improvement but I still get some lift on inclined corners.

*Update* 5-33-11 After running the most recent autox (See post #15) with both sway bars set to full soft I am still having lifting issues but it has improved some. I am currently adjusting the lines I take to help improve this as well.

*Update* 4-29-12 I now have coilovers on the car with higher than average spring rates. This has definitely compounded the rear lift issues on the street. I can't say for sure how I feel at the last 2 autox's as they were at different locations with very different courses. The last event, however, was at a small lot, it was a tight course and it was rather bumpy. The car was "hopping" all over the place so I ended up setting my shocks to full soft and eventually even disconnected the rear sway bar completely (see post #127 for details). This helped out a lot (for that course) but I am reserving my judgement until I try it out like that at our regular venue. I very well might be putting my factory bar back on or even loosing the rear bar all together, we shall see...

*Update* 6-6-12 I am back to my stock rear sway bar. I tried running with the Whiteline bar on soft and with it disconnected. I was definitely faster with the bar connected than without but the oversteer is on a razors edge. I have since put my stock bar back on with the Whiteline endlinks. I have yet to autox with this setup but I am hoping since this bar fits right between the Whiteline 24mm and no bar, that the results will land squarely with a balance of stability and rotation. I have also added rear camber plates to get more negative camber to hopefully help keep the rear planted.

*Update*10-15-13 I have run most of this season without a rear bar connected. I went much bigger and wider with the tires and track of the car and the rear lift wasn't as bad as before but I wanted to try it out. The problem with no rear bar was always that the car wouldn't rotate as easily. With a few alignment changes I was able to compensate for that and get the best of both worlds. Now the car will rotate as well as keep that rear tire down (99.9% of the time). I've also just installed an OSGiken rear diff and I have heard that this may help keep the tire down by locking and forcing the car to rotate a little. We shall see how I like it at the last two events of this season.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Mickle's 2007 OBP STi: 4/10/11 autox

Below is an example of how the 1st autox of this season went! Luckily this was a non-points event! But really this was my first run of the season on cold tires, guess I tried a little to hard. :lol: Had a great time as usual. Somehow I managed 3rd out of 6 in BSP. The class consisted of 3 other drivers in STi's a Corvette ZR1 and an RX8. I lost out to one driver in an STi and the vette. As for the others: Acejam2k's STi was not prepared (no coilovers on yet since winter, and no slicks) the RX8 was rather unprepared for the class and the last STi driver was not the owner of his car. (correction: apparently the last STi's driver, drewski, is newer to autox)

(On a positive not, I managed to keep from DNF'ing this run!)
 

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Re: Mickle's 2007 OBP STi

Hey man car is looking good... I was in the WRB STI with r-comps the first event at NER a few weeks ago, my friend John beat me in my own car :(. I'm going to go with the excuse that he's been autocrossing a couple years longer than me :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Re: Mickle's 2007 OBP STi

Hey man car is looking good... I was in the WRB STI with r-comps the first event at NER a few weeks ago, my friend John beat me in my own car :(. I'm going to go with the excuse that he's been autocrossing a couple years longer than me :rolleyes:
Thanks!

:lol: That sucks man, but I totally know the feeling. I have let two people co-drive at events in my car but neither have beaten me, however, I have let Ben W. drive (drives a Miata usually but was in the Acura TSX last event) during Renegade Miata "fun-runs" (they don't count towards the event but are timed). He has beaten my best time for the day every event he has taken my car for a spin. Thankfully they at least don't count for the event, but it is still depressing.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
04/23/2011 AutoX Devens, MA (updated with results and more pics)

Today started off with guessing what the rain was going to do. There was much discussion of what tires to run. The forecast called for a small amount of rain throughout the day. There were 5 drivers in BSP today, 2 in an RX8, 1 in a ZR1 Corvette, Acejam2k in his STi and myself.

All of us besides the 2 drivers in the RX8 had taken the plunge to run our R-Comps and hope that the rain stayed to a minimum at least. Epic fail! The rain only increased in the morning and the temps hovered in the low 40's. Not a good match for those tires. My first run was in the area of 77.xxx seconds but without any good numbers from comparable cars it was hard to tell what improvements could be made as we were all having issues driving. Second run was a few tenths faster but still in the 77's. It was at that point that Acejam2k and I decided to get back to the paddock and get our street rubbers back on. My current DD street tires are Kumho Ecsta AST's in the 225/45 R17 variety, not a hugely impressive tire to autox on but what an improvement!!! Third run was in the high 62's, shedding 15 seconds from my times!

At this point it was time to go work the course and by work the course I really mean go get soaked, even with rain gear. By the time the second heat was over a drivers meeting was called. Apparently many people didn't want to continue the event in such terrible conditions. So the chairman took a vote of how many wanted to continue. We had enough people who wanted to stay so they said that anyone that wanted to leave could and we would continue the event with the remaining people (all runs completed still counting for the points).

I've never seen so many people leave an autox early! Including most of the Subarus. This I didn't understand as these conditions are not only fun but give us that extra edge. :confused: We only got 2 more runs each but that helped us finish the event quickly.

After the morning runs BSP stood with Acejam2k in first and I was right behind him in raw times (my last run had a cone). Once back from my first afternoon run I waited to hear my time as I knew it was fast and clean.... nothing comes over the radio so I run to the truck only to find out there was a timing issue and I needed to re-run. Ok, extra runs are always good.... except when they are dirty! I picked up one cone on my re-run that would have put me in first. This left me with one last chance to get a good, clean run in.

At this point I am totally paranoid that I will blow my last run. I shut myself in my car with the timing truck broadcast turned off and waited with my eyes closed just to calm down, get centered and focus. I said to myself: "The RX8 went home, Acejam2k went home, all that's left in the class is the ZR1 but he is still on Hoosiers and is way behind. All you need to do is get a decent run in and you can beat Acejam2k's time for first!"

Well, it worked! I knocked out a run good enough to get the number one spot! (my first ever in 2yrs BTW) Needless to say I am rather excited right now, and I don't care that I may have been beaten if everyone had stayed. I don't care at all, let that be a lesson for those who didn't want to get wet (yes, Josh, I'm talking to you)! Oh, and for the record the rain let up a bit just in time for the afternoon runs and work details! :lol:

In summary, I am ecstatic for my first win. I have come very close before running in BS and have been keeping close behind the better set up cars in BSP. It has been a long time coming but there is a lot of good competition in NER so I wont let it go to my head.




Changing the tires back to the street rubbers in the middle of the heat. Big thanks go out to my father who is always there to help me out!


 

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Re: Mickle's 2007 OBP STi.............4/23/11 AutoX, rainy day FTW! (post #12)

Congrats man! What was your best/winning run time?

Yeah after I got home I regretted leaving - but at least I learned a good lesson. I'm gong to invest in some serious rain gear.

Any idea on how the RX8 crew did? You better hope your prayers work when it's dry out too. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Re: Mickle's 2007 OBP STi.............4/23/11 AutoX, rainy day FTW! (post #12)

Congrats man! What was your best/winning run time?

Yeah after I got home I regretted leaving - but at least I learned a good lesson. I'm gong to invest in some serious rain gear.

Any idea on how the RX8 crew did? You better hope your prayers work when it's dry out too. :lol:
Haha, thanks. I don't know the exact number but it was still in the 62's. Your morning time was good enough to keep you in second though, you missed out on getting your shot glass trophy! Marc and Bob both left early as well. I am not sure what they ended the first half of the day with. I am sure I will go back to loosing when it is dry and everyone stays lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Re: Mickle's 2007 OBP STi.....5/1/11 AutoX, new tire pressures and sway bar settings

This past weekends autox was one of our few events held at NHMS in Loudon, NH. This location is a much smaller lot and in turn a much shorter course but is a nice change of pace. The weather was comfortable with plenty of sun and temps in the high 60's. The pavement was a bit hotter allowing me to get some heat into the R-comps for the first time this year.

For this event I had decided to scrap my old tire pressure settings and try out something new. I had been caught up in chalking my tires and reducing pressures until I was scrubbing to a point I was happy with. After many events of working in this direction I realized that I may have brought them to a point that I was getting less grip out of them. I fully expected to spend some time spinning throughout the day with my tires now set to a cold psi of 35F and 30R. After the first few runs I did lower all four by a couple PSI so they would be at the 35/30 when hot. I was pleasantly surprised that I had been correct with the adjustments and I did not spin at all. I was also able to push the car (the tires really) a little harder than before and still achieve the same scrubbing points.

I had also adjusted both my sway bars to the softest settings (27F, 24R). This did help reduce the rear tire lift I had been experiencing but it did not eliminate it. I also tried a few different lines through the sweepers that comprised most of the course and had a bit more success with the inside tire.

The only other thing that I did change was (upon Marc's recommendation) I started running with the DCCD set to the rear. Although I did not feel a big difference in the car the first run like this, coincidentally, was my best run for the day. I will explore this more in the future.

A great battle began very quickly in our class with the top time changing frequently. I did have it at one point in the morning runs but quickly lost it. As everyone's times improved I reached a plateau (both myself and the car) and just could not manage a time to move me back up. Once all my competitors had broken the 30 second mark my goal changed to at least break that point as well, even though they continued on to get into the 28's! My best time of 29.860 was good enough only for last place but see below to see how close each position was. Overall I ended up 20th in raw times (can't complain about that) and a bit lower in PAX thanks to all those Miatas!

I did not let my previous win go to my head, however, I am still not upset about the loss, rather, I am actually kind of pleased! I am still running 95,XXX mile OEM springs and struts so the fact that I can even be competitive at all makes me happy, if for nothing else, about my actual ability to drive the car.:tup:






 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Fuel Filter change (in-tank)

I just finished my first attempt at a fuel filter change. This job was long overdue (36k+ :eek:), although I never had any issues I knew I was pushing my luck with the car. With the help of Shakes' How-to this process was very simple. His write up was very complete and accurate, short of the few notes I will make below. I think I spent about two hours on this taking my time and cleaning everything as I went. Shakes' write up was on an 06 and he mentions a few differences such as the actual filter part number (42072FE030 for the 07's). I bought my filter online for around $60, and I hear that the dealerships charge twice that so shop around.

Some notes for anyone trying this on an 07:

-When removing the rear seat back (step 2c) there will be 4 bolts that need to come off the bottom before you can pull it up and away.

-In step 2d you are instructed to remove both of the vertical braces behind the seat. Once I had a look at everything I found that it was unnecessary to remove the driver side brace as it is out of the way. This may be because of the "pass through"/arm rest change. The addition of this makes the "divider" behind the seat two pieces.

-In step 3d-3e while removing the fuel pump assembly I had a bit of a hang up. There is a small bracket that holds a fuel line that is also mounted to the top of the assembly using the same nuts. This bracket was right in the way of lifting the assembly up and out. Subaru doesn't leave you much space to work with here. What I ended up doing was before I lifted the assembly up I forced the bracket towards the rear of the car with a screwdriver. Once it had cleared the assembly top I pushed it down and released it. It popped forward from the pressure of the line and was now underneath the lid of the assembly allowing the clearance I needed. Obviously this process was reversed on re-assembly.

-Use extra caution on step 4d (removing the old filter). Early on in the how-to you are warned of fuel spillage when disconnecting the lines. I did not get much in those steps however keep in mind that the old filter is full of fuel and will spill out once it is disconnected.

-Lastly I wish I had ordered a new strainer for the assembly as well. This part has never been changed either and looked like it needed to be. Unfortunately with the car apart I could not go get one (if it was even in stock at the dealer) so I will be doing this entire process again soon.

Otherwise, a big thanks to Shakes' for writing this how-to. It was perfect and made my job much easier! Below is a picture of the dirty old filter.



Oh and don't forget, since you disconnected the battery, to re-disable your seat belt warning chime! I had forgotten how annoying it is. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Renegade Miata autox 5/28/11 Points event #1

I made it out to the first points event with the Renegade Miata club (Yes, I run my Subie in a Miata club!). This club doesn't do much classing (especially for the non-Miatas) so until the results get posted I'm not sure exactly how I did but I was able to compare against the RX8 I normally compete against in SCCA. I know his best time was in 1:16.xxx and the best I could pull out was 1:19.xxx. This club has much longer courses than the SCCA and we get more runs so it is a lot of seat time (and its cheaper). The car felt really good but since I haven't changed anything I feel that the course was setup in a configuration that I was very comfortable pushing hard on. I really felt like I was driving at the cars limit with its current setup. What further solidified this idea was that one of my competitors took my car for a "fun run" at the end of the day he didn't beat my time. This may not mean much for most but every other time he has done this he has been able to out drive me in one run (he had never autox'ed in an AWD car before mine)! He is also VERY fast in his Miata or whatever other car he hops into.

For this event I kept my sway bars and hot tire pressure settings the same as my last event. I went through several gallons of water trying to keep the tires cool between runs (140+ degrees after a run down to <100). I have also come to terms with the fact that my Kumhos are about dead. Once of them has started to loose small chunks of the outer layer :tdown:. Now not only am I saving for a new suspension but also for some new tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
"STI Delivers" Truck

I saw this box truck on the highway and felt the need to take a picture... Yeah, I know I am easily amused, so what? :rolleyes:

 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
6/12/11 NER Autox Devens

So I learned a few things at this autox...

1) Never run with anything less than 1/4 tank of gas (especially with a co-driver). My first two runs I experience some fuel starvation at the same spot. At the end of my girlfriends third run we spun and the car had some trouble starting. Borrowed some gas for my third run and problem solved.

2) Fully prepped BSP Mazda RX8s are around 500lbs lighter than an STi!

3) I need new tires and suspension (well, actually, I already knew this one).

Although I didn't have a great day (time wise, I always have fun) I was very impressed with my girlfriend. This was her first autox ever and I just taught her to drive standard so she barely has any experience in the car or with shifting. Most importantly she improved greatly throughout the day and even ended up beating at least 9 other drivers in raw time. Not a single off course and only a handful of cones (mostly due to the spin).





The "grassy knoll shot" :lol::




One of Sandi:


And this video just to embarrass her:
(in all actuality it was her instructor's fault, I wont mention who that was...)
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Renegade Miata autox 6/19/11 Points event 2

Lesson of the day? Don't run with All seasons (225/45 Kumho Ecsta AST); they are no good for AutoX! :lol:

In an effort to preserve the last bit of my V710's for the SCCA events I decided to just run on my DD tires. What a terrible idea! Not only was there a shockingly low amount of grip but the noise of the tires screaming the entire way around the course was obnoxious!

The best two times for the day averaged came out to be 83.669 over 3 seconds behind the BSP RX8 of Marc Monnar. As usual, I take this with a grain of salt since his car is fully prepped and he was running a his 255 Street Touring tires.

I started taking video of my runs using my Ipod. It actually takes decent videos and sound but it also picks up a lot of electrical noise so it is kind of obnoxious to listen to. I have cut the sound completely out. It takes away from the overall feeling of the video but still allows me to review my runs and lines afterwards and that's all I care about.


 
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