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Discussion Starter #21
Ok, will upload some videos later.

I'm overall very satisfied. The butt dyno on Stage 2 wasn't sure. The butt dyno on this tells me "Holyfreakingcrap." I've always loved my car but now I love it enough I want to replace the front bumper and add in some bling :)

Junior's tune seems rock solid still. On Sport which is apparently an 18ish PSI boost tune, it's solid and easy to drive. Literally zero knock unless I purposefully TRY to make it knock. Yes, the tune was so clean I had to resort to that as my paranoid self was wondering if somehow the knock sensors werent working or were disabled. I know Jr wouldn't do that per prior discussions but it was just THAT solid. There may or may not be a stumble... the engine occassionally feels as if it chokes a bit as it heads into boost but driving more aggressively or just staying in boost removes that issue. I only drive it on Sport#, the 21 lb boost mode, when I want to scare people or have a brief moment of fun. Its also rock solid and the choke does not seem to be present there... its just so darn fast that I'm nore sure I'm comfortable driving it 24/7 on that mode :) I have to actually pay attention. Oh, and the A/F learning is perfectly normal now... apparently it just takes a while for the ECU to learn the trims? Apparently a full tank of gas.

Ok, so... despite the fact its overkill and probably not needed, very happy I got the killer b ultimate collection. Very happy with the headers and the change in noise is fine by me. The turbo inlet I presume is fine. The AEM CAI I have some reservations about. I like SOME of the noise but not all of it... but on the other hand its EASY to tell when youre hitting boost and to maintain boost thanks to the feedback. The sensor who knows but as Jr's tune previously was 22 psi, I figured no harm. The TMIC is icy cool to the touch so I presume its fine. The fitment isn't perfect as the hood inlet doesn't precisely line up (There's a gap to the left of several inches) but based on the fact my engine is running SO MUCH COOLER than with the stocker, I'm thinking its irrelevant.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Got a warning from an officer in another town last night and a complaint about how loud the car is. I'm going to use this opportunity to force myself to drive more responsibly.
 

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Around here they will pull you over but don't give tickets. The statute doesn't define a measurable scenario for what is too loud. Loud and objectionable is an excuse for cops to pull you over and look for other things.

They don't expect a 32 year old finance professional with a recaro child seat in the back. Always gives me a smile to see how their demeanor changes instantly.

But you're right, it teaches you to have a little more discretion.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Switched over to Sport from Sport# engine and throttle mapping to try and lesson the amount of naughty driving I do... plus its winter. Attempted to also reflash my map last night but the reflash didn't seem to work at all. I'm wondering if its an AP bug. I'll check for updates with my AP and if necessary, just reload the map completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Reflashed two or three days ago to clear a bad shift on my part from FKL that was annoying me and the car seems much happier. I've started double clutching on my downshifts and making my upshifts more deliberate and its made my prior occasional shift knock become even less.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Waiting for my estimate from Prime.

Realizing I keep adding to this and kicking the price up to the point where I'm thinking it might not be affordable for me and I'll have to be split it up into 2015 and 2016 (if beyond, I'd probably just give up at that point).

As an alternative to going full on stupid with the build, I guess I could:

2015 - Uppipe, EWG, BOV, TGV, Airpump Delete, Fuel pump
2016 - Spoolinator & Turbo, Clutch, Pistons, Rods, Stumble Kit

The only problem here is my car would be down for some serious time for both periods as I currently have the non-EWG killer b uppipe and they would have to modify it and I have no idea how long that takes. The EWG and TGVs would give me a small power boost and would be fun.

Another option is just say screw it and maybe do something like GTWorx Bilsteins or coilovers or whatnot and call it a day. Definitely want to do something with my tax return.
 

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turn around on the killer be EWG modification is about a week but you have to send them both your header and UP because they are V banded and have to be put together to modify the UP.

I would honestly wait and do it all at once. That way you only tune once and that saves you money PLUS the installs and the down time (especially if you arent doing the labor yourself).

For the time being - anything that you can do yourself and wont require a tune is where I would be heading.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
As they're not too far and apparently do alignments, I'll have to check them out.

Prime did respond with a couple of estimates.

Sadly, it just gives me a /LOT/ to think about.

The Spoolinator package just needs so much more to support it that I initially thought - basically would have to build the whole block which is perfectly healthy and low mileage right now :/ Fast spool is nice and +100 whp is /nothing/ to sneeze at, but for... I'm guessing probably $15K in parts and labor (and Prime's prices are very fair and competitive, no issues here)... I just don't see it being worthwhile. If I'm doing that much supporting work, I might as well just go stupid at that point which I have no desire really to do.

They offered me the option of a Dom 1.5XTR also which wouldn't require building the block out (we'd just do drop-in pistons).

An extreme option for me would be to give up on the STI. The Audi S3 or RS3 might be better options. A used GTR would work too at a similar price but I'd really need a 2nd car for a daily then.

Well, I'm no longer motivated to move fast so I'll just think about it.

I could also just stop modding but that would make my wife too happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Ok, so rather than put it up in the build plan as I'm totally unresolved to any one option at this point, I'll add it here. Ultimately, I'm doing /something/. I'm thinking one way or another, I'll do something suspension oriented as I can make the most use of that and enjoy it plus the bounciness of the stock suspension did make a hill at NJMP Lightning a smidge daunting. But I think I still need to convince myself that +100 whp or maybe +125 whp is worth $15K or so.

Suspension (definitely will do):
Option A - GTWorx Bilsteins
Option B - Tein Street Flex with EDFC (sp)
I came up with these options due to my car being first and foremost a daily driver and I live in the sort of countryside and occassionally go on non-paved roads or roads that you would swear weren't paved ;) I don't want a significant ride height drop as my driveway isn't exactly flat...

Power:
Proposal A (my ideas with input from [email protected] for spoolinator plus Prime's recommendations based on their experience)
Prime Motoring Short Block /w:
Cosworth 9.2:1 99.5m pistons
Carrillo Pro-SA 3/8 WMC Bolt Connecting Roads
King Rod Bearings
King Main Bearings
New OEM STI Crank Shaft
Check/Deck Heads & Deglaze Hone Cylinder Walls
ARP L19 Head Studs
OEM Subaru Engine Gasket Kit
Gates OEM Timing Belt Kit
OEM Subaru Thermostat and Gasket
NGK LFR7AIX Spark Plugs
P&L Direct Fuel Pump Wire Kit
Competition Clutch Kit Stage 3
Resurface Flywheel
Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
Torque Solutions Billet Timing Guide
Killer B Spoolinator Kit w/GTX3067 .63 AR
IAG Fuel Rail Set
IAG Braided Fuel Line & Fitting Kit
IAG A1000 FPR
Left off estimate but should be there: Tial MV-S 38mm wastegate and

Proposal B (awaiting actual estimate so just verbal):
Dom 1.5XTR
Pistons as above
Uncertain what else
I'm guessing this would deliver +50 whp?
I'm thinking I'd add on the air pump delete, bov, and a few other things as well to support it.

Things I'm thinking, thanks to a conversation with a board guru, is maybe change the internals to match a single manufacturer... maybe manley and turbotuffs or something. I'm also resigned to maybe go EWG... as long as the spring is set right and maybe if I get a muffler for the dump tube it wouldn't get me too much grief...
 

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If I had to do it all over again, I would save up and build with lots of headroom in mind because it is always cheaper in the long run. Only consider this if you are planning to keep the car for a long time ;)

For instance IAG's rotated kit is $4800 (vs. $3400 Spoolinator) aside from the included GTX30/35 (with Tial Housing, +$350 normally) it includes the GTSpec Header, Tial EWG/uppipe, 3" downpipe, Tial BOV, 4" intake. The unspoken benefits include the ability to any T3 housing turbocharger which means versatility-wise you can fit a very quick spooling turbo like GTX3071 to a monster 1000HP turbo like the Forced Performance Super94, it literally takes 1-2hours to swap. Plus you can run a huge 4inch diameter intake straight into the turbo, something you can't do with stock location, great for spool and power. You can also sell off your stock turbo and other stock location components.

As far as shortblocks, if you do closed deck for an extra $875, go with Manley TurboTuffs for $788, and ARP625s you take a plain $3200 Stage 2 shortblock (stock semiclosed deck, Manley H-tuffs, and ARP2000) that can handle 600whp to something that can handle 800whp. It not only gives you that room to grow into but makes running anything less than that power level safer.

Headwork wise, IAG stage V heads run around $5000 (expensive Kelford cams included) and flow more than Cosworth heads. You can reuse your head castings and save $1280. Here is the before and after comparison: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/built-motor-discussion/268391-faq-how-much-would-upgraded-cams-pnp-heads-bigger-valves-benefit-me.html. IAG does all the port and polishing in-house now so turnaround time is way faster :tup:

Miscellaneous parts like gaskets, injectors, pump, FPR, TGV deletes, FMIC, radiator, thermostat would come out to be around $4000.

So around $20k-$25k you can potentially hit 800whp which is +500whp :lol: +125whp for $15k is not worth it
 

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Great knowledge and experience shared here!

By stock semiclosed do you mean the ej255 out of foresters and wrx?
i read they would accept sti heads and the shortblock is literally the same.
 

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Great knowledge and experience shared here!

By stock semiclosed do you mean the ej255 out of foresters and wrx?
i read they would accept sti heads and the shortblock is literally the same.
Yup the stock shortblocks for the USDM WRX and STi
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Yeah, 25K for +500 seems a much stronger value proposition than 15K for +125. I plan on keeping my car for a while but I keep getting GTR envy ;) and then luxury car envy... so I am hesitant to take the next step.
 

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Yeah, 25K for +500 seems a much stronger value proposition than 15K for +125. I plan on keeping my car for a while but I keep getting GTR envy ;) and then luxury car envy... so I am hesitant to take the next step.
The way I did was more piecemeal because there are checkpoints in the progression. I didn't just show up to IAG one day and drop a duffle bag of $$$$ :lol:

I did the rotated kit first + supporting mods ($7000) and got +110whp. My stock motor was 100% healthy, got a good tune, monitored it and got 45,000 miles out of it. During that time, my priority was to save up for a Stage 2 shortblock ($3200) then my stock motor was still alive 3 years later at which I had time to save up for their head package ($5000). The parts accumulated in a bin at IAG so by 60,000 miles I was bored of the power on the stock block, dropped the car off, 2 weeks later they put the entire longblock together and tuned it, I was set to go :tup:

Had the stock motor blew up, I already would have at least had the Stage 2 shortblock ready to go :)
 
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