IW STi Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was about a mile from home when I noticed this rattle coming from the car. (At first I thought I picked up a piece of cardboard :confused:)
It sounds like it's coming from the turbo area but It's hard to pinpoint.
I'm hoping it's something simple and common enough that someone recognizes the sound.


2015 totally stock
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,739 Posts
That sounds like an engine noise to me. Get yourself a real long screwdriver and put it to the block behind the alternator. Put your ear to the handle of the screwdriver. Have someone rev the engine to replicate the noise. If you can clearly hear the noise then there is an issue inside the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I believe I tracked it down to the Catalytic Converter. I'll have to take it in to the shop Monday to find out or sure.
I hope it does not break the bank!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,432 Posts
could be loose, but not to many moving parts in a cat - hard to be sure - but I'm w Jay on this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys,

I did the screwdriver trick and not conclusive.
If it is something inside, Wouldn't I have warning lights going off? No warning lights at all.
Also, if it is internal engine parts, wouldn't it be rattling even at idle? Idle sounds perfectly normal.
I'll have it in the shop tomorrow and I'll post the end result when I get it back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,739 Posts
Thanks guys,

I did the screwdriver trick and not conclusive.
If it is something inside, Wouldn't I have warning lights going off? No warning lights at all.
Also, if it is internal engine parts, wouldn't it be rattling even at idle? Idle sounds perfectly normal.
I'll have it in the shop tomorrow and I'll post the end result when I get it back.
Not necessarily, rod knock often times can be herd at lower rpm range around the 2-3K rpms. If you can hear it at idle then the engine is pretty much about to fail. You wont get any warning lights for a rod knock issue. You will just hear it. Often times, but not always, rod knock and low oil levels/pressure will go hand and hand.

If you dont hear anything coming from the engine crankcase area using the screwdriver method then thats a good sign. You said the noise may be coming from a lose cat or so. If that is the case, its possible the heatshields on the downpipe or even the turbo heatshield under the intercooler could be making noise. Unless you visually see something loose keep using the screwdriver trick to help you pin point whats making noise and whats not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well, it was indeed rod knock. Thanks for the noise hunting tips!
(I tried my best to telepathically "will" the problem to be something cheap and simple to no avail 😅)

It's already being rebuilt and I'm replacing the original clutch and turbo while I'm at it. (116,000 miles...it's time.)
Over the past several months I've replaced the power steering unit, Timing belt and related, brakes and new tires a month ago.
Should be good for another 100K I hope.

It sucks that these engines seem prone to this. If I didn't love having a practical daily driver that will also destroy winding back roads, I might have started looking for a different vehicle, but nothing comes close to an STi's bang for the buck and fun factor.
Bottom line, if you love driving the car, rebuild. Still cheaper than buying new.
I got 202,000 miles on my 2005 (bought new in May 2004) The original engine in that car blew (loudly) at 38,000 and was replaced under warranty. The new engine was in perfect running order when I traded up for the 2015. Technically, this will be my fourth EJ25 to break in.

Still bummed that I have to part with so much cash at this time, but happy that I'll probably have it back tomorrow or Saturday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,739 Posts
Well, it was indeed rod knock. Thanks for the noise hunting tips!
(I tried my best to telepathically "will" the problem to be something cheap and simple to no avail 😅)

It's already being rebuilt and I'm replacing the original clutch and turbo while I'm at it. (116,000 miles...it's time.)
Over the past several months I've replaced the power steering unit, Timing belt and related, brakes and new tires a month ago.
Should be good for another 100K I hope.

It sucks that these engines seem prone to this. If I didn't love having a practical daily driver that will also destroy winding back roads, I might have started looking for a different vehicle, but nothing comes close to an STi's bang for the buck and fun factor.
Bottom line, if you love driving the car, rebuild. Still cheaper than buying new.
I got 202,000 miles on my 2005 (bought new in May 2004) The original engine in that car blew (loudly) at 38,000 and was replaced under warranty. The new engine was in perfect running order when I traded up for the 2015. Technically, this will be my fourth EJ25 to break in.

Still bummed that I have to part with so much cash at this time, but happy that I'll probably have it back tomorrow or Saturday.
Glad to see you have a good attitude about it. I hope everything goes smoothly and you back on the road soon enjoying the car for what it is.

Just one last piece of advice, have 1 shop remove, rebuild, install and tune the car from start to finish. Its just easier that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Glad to see you have a good attitude about it. I hope everything goes smoothly and you back on the road soon enjoying the car for what it is.

Just one last piece of advice, have 1 shop remove, rebuild, install and tune the car from start to finish. Its just easier that way.
Good advice I live by too. The dealer I bought it from does anything that is under factory warranty and everything else is done by a Subie expert shop. They know each other cooperatively too, so I always feel in good hands and never once felt cheated by either shop. The way it should be for everyone!

Cheers and stay well through this Covid garbage!
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top