Did you read this thread? I'm not sure there is much more information out there on alignment with factory camber bolts. Hope that helps
Looking for Streetable Performance Alignment Advice
I have searched this extensively with the passing of time and have been unable to find a satisfactory response due to the number of posts each one providing a different answer. The purpose, intended use, driver preference, and suspension setup can help guide the decision but ultimately there are too many answers for me to sort through.
I have an GR STi with upgraded driveline bushings and mounts everywhere (super pro). OK, so these do little for handling, but I also have Super Pro adjustable sway bars with endlinks set at 23mm (stiffest) Front and 22mm (intermediate) rear. This gives great stability, turn in, raises limits, quells snap oversteer and is just a joy to drive. But I'd like to try a real deal performance alignment that's not too over the top and won't roast my tires.
Eventually I plan to upgrade every suspension bushing with the Super Pro and adjustable where possible, as well as with upgraded AST 5100 coilovers with 6/7k F/R springs. But I am still on the stock springs and shock absorbers.
I have read that -1.5 negative camber on the fronts with zero toe in front and rear is more than adequate for these purposes, but looking for targeted, specific advice on the topic.
Thanks in advance
T
I have an GR STi with upgraded driveline bushings and mounts everywhere (super pro). OK, so these do little for handling, but I also have Super Pro adjustable sway bars with endlinks set at 23mm (stiffest) Front and 22mm (intermediate) rear. This gives great stability, turn in, raises limits, quells snap oversteer and is just a joy to drive. But I'd like to try a real deal performance alignment that's not too over the top and won't roast my tires.
Eventually I plan to upgrade every suspension bushing with the Super Pro and adjustable where possible, as well as with upgraded AST 5100 coilovers with 6/7k F/R springs. But I am still on the stock springs and shock absorbers.
I have read that -1.5 negative camber on the fronts with zero toe in front and rear is more than adequate for these purposes, but looking for targeted, specific advice on the topic.
Thanks in advance
T
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Toe kills tires not really camber. Go zero toe, -2.5 front camber, -1.5 rear camber, max caster for the street.
this.Toe kills tires not really camber. Go zero toe, -2.5 front camber, -1.5 rear camber, max caster for the street.
these are my current alignment settings also. on the stock dunlops the front inside tread was getting pretty chewed up, but i think this is a tire defect, not because of the camber. Or I'm not cornering hard enough lol:lol: Anywhere from -1.5 to -2.5 is fine for fronts (with the help of camber bolts).
just recently swapped over to 255/45/18 MSS, and so far the wear seems much more consistent, as well as the ride and grip levels.
the alignment settings above are very good though. They will make a huge difference in how the car turns in and powers out in turns. you will feel it the instant you dive into the first corner. I never realized how bad the factory specs were. Mine were way out of spec.
Stiggysaurus;Did you read this thread? I'm not sure there is much more information out there on alignment with factory camber bolts. Hope that helps
Yes, I did read that thread, and it seemed the most helpful. However, there are so many contradictory threads that I wasn't sure what to make of it, IE "no more than 1.5 negative camber on stock suspension parts (swaybars excluded)" or "caster cannot be done on stock suspension parts" or "zero camber in the rear +/- you cannot set camber in the rear".
In other words the searches did give me a good idea, but the fact that other modders such as yourself gave the above post more credence helps me believe its credibility.
The other thing is that since I am so happy having replaced every driveline bushing, mount, bracket, insert (y'all know what they are, too many to list), now I plan to do the same thing but with suspension. I like the feel, the sound and the behavior. Given future increases in adjustability I plan on looking further into this. But for now I just want something more responsive.
I have to say the 23/22 adjustable super pro setup is pretty darn good. There is less understeer at the limit this way than stock, surprisingly as it corners much flatter with awesome turn in. Gone is the (bad) light or squirreliness of the rear end, it is much more controllable in the corners, and even though the ride is maybe 10% harsher (not much) it seems to drive better over washboard roads! I want to take away that last little wisp of understeer, add some responsiveness and get rid of the lateral tire wear of those dunlops. Especially the fronts after only 4,000 miles are getting chewed up on the sides. I should have gotten the Sway bars at 8 miles (when I first bought it)......
Alignment always is a subjective item and varies by the mods, purpose and driving style. Here is what I found that works well as a starting point but you need to see what's best for you:
Stock struts/springs: zero toe
DD Frt -1.3 ~ -1.5, rear -1.0 ~ -1.2-----
Aggressive Frt -1.6 ~ -2.0, rear -1.2 ~ -1.6 (need camber bolts).
Coil-overs w/camber plates & LCA: (varies by intended use)
DD Frt -1.5 ~ -1.8, rear -1.1 ~-1.2------
Aggressive Frt -1.8 ~ -2.0, rear -1.4 ~ -1.6-----
very aggressive Frt -2.0 ~ -2.2, rear -1.5 ~ -1.7 , noticeable camber wear -----
Autox FRT -2.2 ~ -3.0*, rear -1.7 ~ -2.5* *extreme settings----
Suggest trying something in the aggressive range for street DD, and DD for winter, bad road or wet driving areas.
Haven't used those coil-overs but most GRs run 8k front and rear springs (or 450 # frt/400# rear) on the street w/22mm or 24mm sways
Stock struts/springs: zero toe
DD Frt -1.3 ~ -1.5, rear -1.0 ~ -1.2-----
Aggressive Frt -1.6 ~ -2.0, rear -1.2 ~ -1.6 (need camber bolts).
Coil-overs w/camber plates & LCA: (varies by intended use)
DD Frt -1.5 ~ -1.8, rear -1.1 ~-1.2------
Aggressive Frt -1.8 ~ -2.0, rear -1.4 ~ -1.6-----
very aggressive Frt -2.0 ~ -2.2, rear -1.5 ~ -1.7 , noticeable camber wear -----
Autox FRT -2.2 ~ -3.0*, rear -1.7 ~ -2.5* *extreme settings----
Suggest trying something in the aggressive range for street DD, and DD for winter, bad road or wet driving areas.
Haven't used those coil-overs but most GRs run 8k front and rear springs (or 450 # frt/400# rear) on the street w/22mm or 24mm sways
As far as inside corner wear, if you're seeing a very steep angled maybe 1" wide wear pattern it maybe that you need bigger/stiffer swaybars to offset body roll. I found that going to larger bars really helped eliminate the inside scrubbing.this.
these are my current alignment settings also. on the stock dunlops the front inside tread was getting pretty chewed up, but i think this is a tire defect, not because of the camber. Or I'm not cornering hard enough lol:lol: Anywhere from -1.5 to -2.5 is fine for fronts (with the help of camber bolts).
just recently swapped over to 255/45/18 MSS, and so far the wear seems much more consistent, as well as the ride and grip levels.
the alignment settings above are very good though. They will make a huge difference in how the car turns in and powers out in turns. you will feel it the instant you dive into the first corner. I never realized how bad the factory specs were. Mine were way out of spec.
I have a 24mm bar in the front at the softer setting. At stiff setting I'm getting too much under steer. 22mm in back at stiff.As far as inside corner wear, if you're seeing a very steep angled maybe 1" wide wear pattern it maybe that you need bigger/stiffer swaybars to offset body roll. I found that going to larger bars really helped eliminate the inside scrubbing.
I'm running 24mm frt and rear, and when I went stiff front (24.5) and medium rear (24) the inner wear was greatly reduced.
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