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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I'm going to be installing my Killer B oil pan and ultimate oil pickup soon.

Just been wondering since I've recently seen that they have a high flow version of the oil pickup now and the only difference seems to be a different shape inlet with a larger opening.

Couldn't I just enlarge the opening on my Killer B ultimate oil pickup to get higher flow rates rather than having to buy the high flow one to get more flow?

I also have an ACL Orbit high performance oil pump that I plan to install in the future when I can get to it..

I also recently installed a Mishimoto thermostatic oil cooler and cylinder 4 cooling mod, but I'm not even sure how much my oil pressure or temp has dropped since I haven't installed my oil pressure and temp gauges yet, 🤷‍♂️ but my coolant temps so far are better. I still see knock sum on cyl 3 and more on cyl 4 (also could be from running OTS tune).
I'll also be installing an IAG AOS soon too, hopefully that reduces knock sum on cyl 3 and cyl 4..

Any input would be appreciated, thanks! ✌
 

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There's more too it than just the opening size, but if you're not reving beyond the OEM redline or making BIG power, don't worry about it. Our traditional still flow more vs the OEM pickup, so you're still ahead of the game :)

I would recommend against the ACL pump. They are grossly oversized and have reliability issues. Use the proper OEM pump and call it a day.

Consider having the tune checked and/or checking the health of the engine. An AOS is not going to solve a knock problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There's more too it than just the opening size, but if you're not reving beyond the OEM redline or making BIG power, don't worry about it. Our traditional still flow more vs the OEM pickup, so you're still ahead of the game :)

I would recommend against the ACL pump. They are grossly oversized and have reliability issues. Use the proper OEM pump and call it a day.

Consider having the tune checked and/or checking the health of the engine. An AOS is not going to solve a knock problem.
Thanks for your input, I'll just install the pick up as is and I think I'll probably end up with an RCM 12mm pump then.. I started reading threads on the ACL pump and it does seem iffy..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
A lot more detail to know for a proper pump selection. AVCS or DAVCS? Line Bored main tunnel? Ball or Journal bearing turbo? OEM or billet crank? Heads built for what redline?
D-AVCS

The details on the block:
  • Seasoned EJ257 case halves
  • V4 Closed Deck Process
  • JE FSR Pistons
  • Outfront Motorsports +2mm Long Connecting Rods W/ ARP 625+ Bolts
  • King Performance Bearings
  • New OEM Subaru Nitride Treated 2017+ STI Crankshaft
  • Machined for ½” head studs
I don't think it's line bored..

Blouch Dom 5.0 XT-R for the turbo.

IAG Stage 3 Pocket Ported Cylinder Head Package w/ +1mm GSC Valves & GSC S2 Cams & OEM Lifters:
  • GSC 37mm (+1mm) Intake Valves
  • GSC 33mm (+1mm) SuperAlloy Exhaust Valves
  • GSC Single Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers (not sure if I need to upgrade to GSC Dual Conical Valve Springs or Beehives?)
  • OEM Valve Guides
  • GSC Valve Stem Seals
  • IAG Performance CNC Pocket Porting
  • Multi-Angle Valve Job
  • Machined Cam Lobe Clearance
I really want to push redline to 8k RPM..
 

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D-AVCS

New OEM Subaru Nitride Treated 2017+ STI Crankshaft

I don't think it's line bored..

Blouch Dom 5.0 XT-R for the turbo.

I really want to push redline to 8k RPM..
^ These are the features that are going to influence oiling requirements the most. If it were my engine, I would run the 11mm with 1 added shim. Send it to some one that has some experience porting them and it will serve your purpose perfectly. Without porting, you may see pressure drop +7,500 RPMs due to the bypass valve having excess turbulent flow. With light porting, it will be fine. An engine can only accept so much oil; putting a larger than necessary pump on there is going to push the excess flow out the bypass valve, not through the engine. This increases the engine's parasitic losses (since you're pumping more oil), adds additional heat to the oil, and offers no benefit, besides the 12mm having a higher pressure rating... which is why adding a shim to the 11mm is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
^ These are the features that are going to influence oiling requirements the most. If it were my engine, I would run the 11mm with 1 added shim. Send it to some one that has some experience porting them and it will serve your purpose perfectly. Without porting, you may see pressure drop +7,500 RPMs due to the bypass valve having excess turbulent flow. With light porting, it will be fine. An engine can only accept so much oil; putting a larger than necessary pump on there is going to push the excess flow out the bypass valve, not through the engine. This increases the engine's parasitic losses (since you're pumping more oil), adds additional heat to the oil, and offers no benefit, besides the 12mm having a higher pressure rating... which is why adding a shim to the 11mm is the way to go.
Is there a reason why there's a 12mm JDM pump? RCM also has an 11mm pump that's modified and should work then?
I really like the way the 2.0L EJ's rev so smoothly to high RPM's and want the same for my EJ257 and want to make sure it has enough oil pressure.
 

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The 12mm pumps are for the JDM EJ20 Spec-C. Modified Oiling OEM crank, Oil Sprayers, Twin Scroll Journal Bearing Turbo, DAVCS, 8K RPM redline. The 12mm pump makes sense because you need the extra flow.

You'll have enough pressure with the 11mm pump. It would be highly idiotic for me to be giving our this kind of advice if I didn't KNOW, lol

The EJ20s rev so freely because of several factors, one being the displacement (Bore/Stroke), but the oil pump isn't a contributing factor to the engine's rev happy nature. You can however build an EJ25 to be even more responsive and rev happy. 9K RPM redline is fairly rare, but I have seen a 10K RPM EJ25 before. We've done a big power 8,500 RPM build here that lived a happy life. All it takes is deep pockets.

Keep in mind a larger oil pump does NOT increase oil pressure, it ONLY increases oil flow. If the engine isn't built to use that flow, it goes out the bypass; again added heat, parasitic losses, etc..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The 12mm pumps are for the JDM EJ20 Spec-C. Modified Oiling OEM crank, Oil Sprayers, Twin Scroll Journal Bearing Turbo, DAVCS, 8K RPM redline. The 12mm pump makes sense because you need the extra flow.

You'll have enough pressure with the 11mm pump. It would be highly idiotic for me to be giving our this kind of advice if I didn't KNOW, lol

The EJ20s rev so freely because of several factors, one being the displacement (Bore/Stroke), but the oil pump isn't a contributing factor to the engine's rev happy nature. You can however build an EJ25 to be even more responsive and rev happy. 9K RPM redline is fairly rare, but I have seen a 10K RPM EJ25 before. We've done a big power 8,500 RPM build here that lived a happy life. All it takes is deep pockets.

Keep in mind a larger oil pump does NOT increase oil pressure, it ONLY increases oil flow. If the engine isn't built to use that flow, it goes out the bypass; again added heat, parasitic losses, etc..
Thanks this is very insightful and I trust your advice, just had some questions about the existence of the JDM 12mm and why so many people are choosing to install that over the 11mm pump is all.

I think I would be happy with just getting to 8k RPM and 550-600whp in a fairly stock looking engine bay build (california).. as long as 11mm pump has enough pressure and flow with the Mishimoto oil cooler I'm good with that!
 

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Thanks this is very insightful and I trust your advice, just had some questions about the existence of the JDM 12mm and why so many people are choosing to install that over the 11mm pump is all.
For no other reason than everyone assumed bigger is better. It's not always the case. If it were, we'd all be driving dump trucks around, lol

I think I would be happy with just getting to 8k RPM and 550-600whp in a fairly stock looking engine bay build (california).. as long as 11mm pump has enough pressure and flow with the Mishimoto oil cooler I'm good with that!
I'm not a fan of Mishy products. They are on the lower end of the quality/performance spectrum, and do some research on their oil coolers before you buy. Even better, do you actually need an oil cooler? What are your temps now? These engines generally do not run hot oil temps unless under severe track conditions. On the street, they often overcool, which is worse than running oil too hot. For oil coolers, I like Setrab or Mocal. I hear Perrin makes a nice unit too, but I've not used it.

The oil pumps in these engines are 'positive displacement' type pumps. In short, it means the faster they go, the more they pump, and efficiently too. You can find the same style pump on a 16,000 RPM Superbike and they have no problem supplying pressure at those RPMs too.

Flow requirements are dictated by the engine build, and pressure set by the bypass valve. Ideally, you want to have a setup that is closely matched to what is needed. Too much is bad, too little is worse. In a perfect world a pump would be matched to a point where the bypass never opened, or pressure would be controlled electronically like on some higher end sports cars.
 
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