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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I just picked up a set of Kartboy rear endlinks and installed them, and now it seems they are clunking. What I noticed before the install was that the hole opening on the endlinks were a bit bigger than the bolts, allowing the bolts to wiggle all around. I figure there should be a semi snug fit, otherwise there could be noise from the bolt bouncing around in the sleeve? Was there a snug fit for the bolt into the sleeve, or is there supposed to be a lot of wiggle room? I looked at scoobymods and for a forester the torque specs were 36ft lbs.....so that's what I torqued them down to. Is this correct as well? Thanks for any help!
 

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I havent noticed any knock coming from my kb rear endlinks, what your hearing from rear may be the normal rear diff clunk. In fact the kb endlinks almost completely eliminated all the knock that I experinced with my previous set..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't think it's the rear diff, as I just switched from the stock endlinks that were quiet to the kartboys and now hear the noise. It's definitely related to the kartboys as I put teh stocks back on and it's quiet again. I hear the knock when hitting bumps, coming out of my driveway(coasting), basically any bump. I guess what I want to know is if the abilitly to wiggle the bolt up and down in the sleeve is normal? It's like the bolt is too small for the sleeve, or the sleeve was machined with too big of a hole(bolt goes through the tab and swaybar relatively snugly)
 

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I just recieved my kartboy endlinks as well but haven't installed them yet. I also noticed that the bolts supplied seem to be significantly smaller than the metal sleeves on the endlinks. Seems like there would be a lot of movement allowed. I am wondering if this is normal too....
 

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Turninconcepts.com said:
What washer order did you use on the install? You need them or the bushing will push past the bolt head.
Yep, I experienced this last week... two of my bushings are somewhere out on the highway. To Kartboy's credit, I have been offered replacements. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Turninconcepts.com said:
What washer order did you use on the install? You need them or the bushing will push past the bolt head.
I did bolt, washer, endlink, swaybar, washer, nut. I think that's how it's supposed to go.

Tom: Do you have a recommended torque rating? And so the play in the bolt and sleeve is normal? Thanks
 

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xtremeyolks said:
I did bolt, washer, endlink, swaybar, washer, nut. I think that's how it's supposed to go.

Tom: Do you have a recommended torque rating? And so the play in the bolt and sleeve is normal? Thanks
no, its supposed to be

Bolt, washer, endlink, washer, swaybar, nut.

You may push the metal insert out that way......

FWIW i have front and rears from kartboy, and i have no sounds, except from the rear because i think i tightened them too tight. And i think one of my fronts is loose again, so i need to tighten that one. Other wise i'm happy my car is quiet again.
 

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Just emailed Tom.

He said he usually uses 40-45 pounds (higher than OE because of the higher grade steel on the bolts the links come with).
And usually installs the links in the following manner: bolt, washer, endlink, swaybar, washer, nut.

Hope that answers everybodies questions.
 

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michaelc said:
Just emailed Tom.

He said he usually uses 40-45 pounds (higher than OE because the higher grade steel on the bolts the links come with).
And usually installs the links in the following manner: bolt, washer, endlink, swaybar, washer, nut.

Hope that answers everybodies questions.
oh...wow. Oops. :(
 

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Forgot to add...he said the space between metal sleeve and the bolt is needed clearance. If i understood correctly it was so the assembly wouldn't sieze due to dirt/grime build up(making it hard to disassemble).

I also added some more silicone based lubricant in between the metal sleeve and the rubber and it's rotating a lot more smoothly and with much more ease. Maybe that might be the cure to the clunking. Before I put it in, it was pretty hard for me to slide the sleeve out or even rotate the sleeve inside the rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you michaelc! My sleeves can turn okay, so I will just torque the bolts down more and see what happens.
 

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This is going to sound random but make sure your jack & tools are locked down in the trunk... it can be noisey and make you think it's a lot of different things... :)
 

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Or here is one that has gotten me more than once:

Make sure if the rear seat upper cushion has been removed that the child restraint bars are tightened. Also, make sure the top cushion is in the slot on both sides as the "clunk" sounds similar to strut or endlink noise. Stand on either side of the rear quarter and look through the back glass, the top of the seatback should be "flush" to the package tray.

Like I said has gotten me more than once!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I haven't really gotten a chance to test them out yet, but I torqued them down to 42ft lbs and so far there has been no more noise. I've only driven it into a car trailer though, as I am en route to the Packwood National Tour haha. I'll test them out tomorrow on the practice course.
 

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xtremeyolks said:
I did bolt, washer, endlink, swaybar, washer, nut. I think that's how it's supposed to go.

Tom: Do you have a recommended torque rating? And so the play in the bolt and sleeve is normal? Thanks
just crank them as tight as you can, it's not like you need to bust out the torque wrench, when rebuilding an engine yes, when installing rear endlinks nah....

FYI my kb rear links are as silent as the stockers but 5x thicker:bow:
 
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