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Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline race ALK needs a pr

Joey, its me joe r the other Joe with the Perrin super steer system.lol

Anyways I know what your deal is. With the gms unit. One of two things. Its springs is to stiff & not allowing the flapper to open fully so enuff coolant can flow through to stay cool or it has a smaller hole for coolant to flow through and once again not allowing enuff coolant to move throught the system to stay cool.


joe r
 

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Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline race ALK needs a pr

That's SEX, Joey...very nice. You're going to have to tell me what you did! :eek:

Also, your conclusion on the GMS thermostat vs. the GrimmSpeed one? Is the GMS one defective, or do you think that they all operate at that higher temperature vs. the GrimmSpeed 160*? Granted, I'd expect the two to be different, but not 20* worth.

Also, what is your opinion on the GrimmSpeed unit and its operation in the winter time? When driving in below 0* temperatues, mainly...
 

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Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline race ALK needs a pr

Looks great buddy!

That's such bull**** about the ALK. How the hell do they expect the average customer to assemble it?

Thats a total deal breaker for me :tdown:
 

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Discussion Starter · #525 ·
Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline race ALK needs a pr

YES! They brought back the link to the journals in the left hand column under the avatar. :banana:

Currently packing for school so I can leave tomorrow, so I will answer questions and do more write ups in a day or two.

I got two limp maps from my tuner today. :) One for stock injectors and one for the DW 1000cc. (And of course DW just released the 1300cc, so I cannot think I have the big, bad 6-shooter in town.) Off boost driveability is good, but it idles like a champ. :tup: No hesitations, no stumbling, no hunting to find the exact RPM, just dun-dun-dun-dun-dun-dun-dun. That's the UEL header sound at idle. Also, the limp map canceled the air pump CEL codes, so I ripped that thing out with my teeth.

I put the painted headlights back in. I also wired up and installed some painted Hella horns.

My dad pressed the metal center tubes into the Whiteline ALK bushing at work. He said it only took him a minute with a tabletop press. Geez, having the right tools makes all the difference.

Swain Tech called me and said the EWG is done, so I gave them my school address. I can't wait to see it as well as assemble it. Of course, I'll post pictures of it (as if it was a built engine from EFI Logics).
 

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Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline race ALK needs a pr

Don't get bigger injectors then you need buddy. It's not as good for atomization.

I'm glad the links are back! They look different though.. I think its the extra space?
 

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Discussion Starter · #527 ·
Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline race ALK needs a pr

I woke up early so I could install the Whiteline ALK. There's a reason why my favorite mod is the mod bug. Those new 1/2" drive sockets dealt out some serious punishment! Wow, did the ALK change the suspension geometry as I put them into place. The car still drives straight if I let go of the wheel even though my last alignment was at least 1.5 years ago and before all the mods. Going straight, the wheels points ever so slightly to the left though.

Murphy's Law got me today: worn out stock tires on the highway and it decided to rain. It was scarier than driving in a lake effect snow storm when the radio tells everyone to stay home and starts closing roads. I had to drive 60mph behind a semi truck, whose tires helped push away the water. No more driving in the rain for me, and it looks like the snow tires will go on early this winter. My dad's getting me new rubber next spring, but I may try to sell the stock wheels and get something else, which requires deciding what width and tire size.

That's such bull**** about the ALK. How the hell do they expect the average customer to assemble it?

Thats a total deal breaker for me :tdown:
I have no idea. If I would have actually known that, I'm not sure whether I would have gotten it. Likewise, I think Group N bushings are cool, but I've always shied away from them since so many require a press. I wish cars were like computers where you can build them on the website to your specs. Someone once said the STI vs. Evo debate would be a lot different if the STI had all Group N bushings, and I'll suggest slightly bigger sway bars, too.

Also, your conclusion on the GMS thermostat vs. the GrimmSpeed one? Is the GMS one defective, or do you think that they all operate at that higher temperature vs. the GrimmSpeed 160*? Granted, I'd expect the two to be different, but not 20* worth.
At first, I thought it was defective since GMS isn't known for their quality. But, after discovering that they're the same manufacturer, I'm wondering if that's how a 170*F aftermarket thermostat works in our cars. :notsure: I didn't do an extensive search, but I haven't really seen anyone using 170*F thermostats. I'd say if you want something colder, go 160*F, but it you want stock-like temperatures, then stay with the OEM thermostat.

Also, what is your opinion on the GrimmSpeed unit and its operation in the winter time? When driving in below 0* temperatues, mainly...
I was concerned about that, too, and that's why I was initially drawn to a 170*F thermostat. The GrimmSpeed 160*F currently keeps me at 176*F, whether I'm cruising at 35mph or 75mph. If you wait a couple months, I'll find out firsthand for you. I did find this though.
[...] I have a koyo radiator and 160 degree stat and never go below 175 or above 195. I have checked two logs, one with outside around 70 and the other around 95. [...] Edit just checked a log I did of 80mph hwy driving when it was 35 degrees outside and with the same koyo and 160 stat I never went below 172. Oil temps, well thats a different story, had to block that mother ****er (oil cooler) to keep them above 160 even with the mocal.
Don't get bigger injectors then you need buddy. It's not as good for atomization.
I know. They were for that big turbo that never came. :lol: Also, I was thinking if I got big ones, I hopefully wouldn't have to change them out if I ever got a different turbo, or if E85 stations suddenly popped up everywhere.
I'm glad the links are back! They look different though.. I think its the extra space?
I think so. Either that, or it's because you're going for six figures in posts.

The quest to find a small mod Joey doesn't have already is on!
If you are serious about this, ie it's not a hallucination on Ambien, and I can't change your mind, I thought of something in the price range of a master cylinder brace. Only a few people (the guys that have practically everything) have the mod. But... it requires a Dremel and some precise cutting, and I don't have either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #528 ·
Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline ALK pressed & insta

I forgot to mention that I bought jordanretro1223's Forge BPV. I figured I should take my own advice. Ideally, I wanted to do something with the intercooler and put the MAF after the intercooler, but that didn't happen. I never though much about aftermarket BPVs until I saw this article from a tuning shop (who focuses more on EVOs and Hondas).
Forge Recirc Valve vs Subaru OE Recirc Valve Dyno Test
Joey when is your tune?
Not scheduled as of yet. The tuner is scheduling about 2 weeks out as of right now. I still need the headers and to get them ceramic coated, which takes 2 weeks. That should hopefully buy me some time so I can install all the other stuff. Racing against the clock. :-/
 

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Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline ALK pressed & insta

Joey do you have a pic of your entire engine bay?
 

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Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline ALK pressed & insta

that race ALK is a pain to put together without a press. a friend and I did it with vice grips, but it was a *****.
 

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Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline ALK pressed & insta

Thanks.


Its exactly how I thought...

Hmmmmm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #534 · (Edited)
Re: Joey's gg: Perrin super steer system only fits 08+, Whiteline ALK pressed & insta

Well, I tried to make an in car video of the NVH. I got stuck at a long red light so the middle is boring. :( I was also so nervous that I stuttered. I'm not sure why there's so much static - maybe because the window is vibrating. As you can see, I was at the grocery store. :lol:

 

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Discussion Starter · #536 · (Edited)
Re: Joey's gg: amateur in car video of NVH while street driving, post #534

free caster mod

The install
You have to jack the car up and use jackstands so the wheels are off the ground. Loosen the 22mm nut on the end of the lower control arm that holds the bushing; this will require a wrench due to the limited space. There are two 17mm bolts that connect the lower control arm to the black piece that links the bushing and lower control arm. After unbolting the two bolts, rotate the black piece 180* about its axis. This may require pushing on the lower control arm with one hand and spinning the part with the other. Afterward, bolt down the two 17mm bolts like before. You'll see that you have pushed the rear part of the LCA outward a little bit. This adds 0.5* of caster. Put the car on ramps so the suspension is at ride height, and tighten down the 22mm nuts.

The review
I assumed I would not be able to feel this mod because it was free and it "only" adds 0.5* of caster (which to a noob, doesn't sound like much). Well, I was wrong. Turn in felt a little sharper and more precise. Plus, it only requires the necessary tools and a little time.

I forgot to get a good before and after shot. I did the free caster mod on the stock bushings. My driving impressions are on the stock bushings. I installed the Whiteline ALK at a later time. Hopefully, you can see it in these two pictures because the cross sectional are of the black piece is not rectangular. You can also notice the painted white lines.

before, passenger's side, stock bushing

after, driver's side, Whiteline race ALK; I forgot to take a picture of the free caster mod with the stock bushings
 

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Discussion Starter · #537 · (Edited)
Re: Joey's gg: amateur in car video of NVH while street driving, post #534

Mishimoto 1.3 bar upper radiator cap

The install
Some assembly required: you have to peel the packing off the Mishimoto sticker and attach it to the bare cap. As long as the coolant is cold, unscrew the stock cap on the upper coolant resevoir and screw on the Mishimoto cap.

The review
This replaces the stock 108kPa cap with a 1.3 bar cap, which is 130kPa or ~19psi. By increasing the pressure of the cooling system, the coolant can reach a higher temperature before it boils over. I think of it as a failsafe in the event of overheating, not as a way to combat overheating.

How do I know it's working? After installing the cap and putting it through a heat cycle, I waited until the coolant was room temperature. When I opened the cap, it was hard to lift and there was a loud sucking noise because of the pressure equalization. (Keep in mind atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi or 1.013bar.) I would not recommend this for the stock radiator because the plastic endtanks have been known to crack, and I would assume running a higher pressure would accelerate that process.

Why did I choose Mishimoto? It was cheaper than the other 1.3 bar caps. Moreover, it's in English and doesn't looks like a bunch of foreign scribbles - I get my fill when I walk out of the engineering classroom and everyone but me starts talking in other languages. The sticker was a little scratched when I opened the box, but I don't care about little stuff like that.

stock and Mishimoto caps
 

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Discussion Starter · #538 ·
Re: Joey's gg: amateur in car video of NVH while street driving, post 534; more revie

Super Hella Tones car horns

The install
This install takes some electrical knowledge, such as crimping and soldering. I have never crimped before, but it was simple enough. You cannot just hook the horns up to the stock wiring for the stock horns. There are 2-3 how to articles on how to wire the new relay. Make sure you include a fuse on the power supply wire.

Keep in mind this is for an 06-07 front bumper. I took out the plastic pop pins and the 3 grill pieces. If you want the horns to be in the center grill, there are two conveniently placed bolts near the hood latch. If you want them in the two wings of the grill, there are two bolts on the outside, next to the headlights. These bolts have rubber mounts; the horns can jiggle if you push on them, but the bolts can be tightened enough so that the horns will not sag under gravity.

I did a little extra with the painting. Mine were used and they had a ton of black paint on them. I sanded the black paint so it was smooth. I then taped off the inside of the horn and used Krylon Fusion blue spray paint. I also sanded the bolt heads and spray painted them black with Krylon Fusion black.

The review
I already had Unabomber's sexy rear end. How do you top that? With the perky honkers, of course! To top it off, my car doesn't have a bra, a 3M clear bra that is. These honkers are sure to get anyone's attention, or at least any guy's attention. ;)
*Beep* "Hey, I'm in this lane, and you're in that lane. Stop drifting into my lane."
*Beep* "The light's green, and I'm a New York City taxi driver."

In all seriousness, these things are loud! Do not hit the horn in the garage. They also change the tone of the sound a little bit. No more wimpy, pathetic horn.

before, bolt heads already sanded, Hella Tones already painted by previous owner

taped up and ready for paint

done
 

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Discussion Starter · #539 · (Edited)
Re: Joey's gg: amateur in car video of NVH while street driving, post 534; more revie

KS Tech air pump delete

The install
There's a write up on how to do this. I didn't need to take out the battery or loosen the fuse box like the write up said. I just took off the fuse box top and gently pushed some lines out of the way as I pulled the pump out. It's simple and straightforward, but it requires taking off the TMIC. :unamused: It also requires a KS Tech air pump block off plate to seal off the engine block. I now see the big solenoid that needs to be kept in order to measure the atmospheric pressure - although jagstyle sawed it in half and still kept the pressure sensor. Removing the air pump will throw some CEL codes after 4 start ups. Just reset the ECU with your map from the tuner, who canceled the CEL codes.

The review
Yay, I can get to the driver's side spark plugs. :) Also, I can put the final bolt into the Perrin master cylinder brace. Even with my small hands, I could do it with the air pump in the way. Moreover, I reduced some weight.

Sad face :( for more pollution though. During a cold start up, the catalytic converter is too cold to light off the unburnt fuel. Subaru decided to use an air pump that injects air into the exhaust for the first 1-2 minutes on a cold start up to help light off the unburnt fuel and reduce emissions.

KS tech block off plate; driver's side on the back of the engine, notice the steering shaft

da big, bad solenoid; under the TMIC, notice the pitchstop mount
wiring harness currently unconnected

I zip tied the wires to some existing wires
Edit: I wasn't thinking at the end of the install. I reconnected the black and purple wiring harness back into the solenoid.

out of the car

gone
 

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Discussion Starter · #540 · (Edited)
Re: Joey's gg: amateur in car video of NVH while street driving, post 534; more revie

Whiteline rear strut bar

The install
Installs just like a front strut bar, only it's in the rear, behind the seats. In addition to taking out the rear seat, you have to unbolt the seat belts. For whatever reason, one of the seatbelts reeled up and locked. I spent quite a while trying to get it unlocked - tugging, yanking, shaking, poking every that could be a button, gently pulling. I have no idea how it unlocked itself, but it did. Also, have a deep socket or racheting wrench because I had a jolly ol' time with my combination wrench.

The review
I got this a couple weeks after installing the Litespeed rear chassis bridge. I was blown away by the results of the rear chassis bridge. :tup: I decided it couldn't hurt to also add a rear strut bar. Well, it didn't hurt, but it didn't help; nothin', nada, zilch. :lol: Noob fails again. Keep in mind, I had a front strut bar, the Litespeed rear chassis bridge, and now the rear strut bar. Everything else suspension wise was stock - tires, springs, sway bars, ALK, etc.

Going off my discussion on the front strut bar, there is not enough chassis flex in the stock suspension to necessitate a rear strut bar. Subaru designed the car to handle the stresses and lateral grip of the stock suspension. (Anecdotal exception: they needed to add a rear chassis bridge because that thing was a huge difference. Or, you can use an X brace. Or, check this out, a Litespeed rear chassis bridge with an X brace, which I surmise is the key to beating TiC's track car. ;)) Start modifying the suspension and getting more lateral grip, and I'm sure the rear strut bar will come in handy as the chassis begins to flex more and more. So, really, I was just setting my self up for success later when I got around to the suspension mods. By bracing the chassis, you help maintain your suspension alignment while cornering, and this means more precise control and lateral grip.

Whiteline rear strut bar, also pictured is the Litespeed rear chassis bridge
 
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