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and made a handy-dandy write up in my Tech Section.

thanks to zimm and HarlanPepper for sharing with their installs.

and S.C. from IA!

enjoy...





click my sig for the tech section.
 

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USDM STi attempting to run against a 911 turbo!!

Thanks for posting those. I was planning on installing my speakers Monday night, but didn't have time. Finally got back into town and I'm going to do them Friday morning. Well, about 10 hours from now.

I'm excited, nervous, and a little bit curious... :wink:
 

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just take your time and you should do fine. after you crack into one of the doors and see how it's laid out and what's necessary the others become routine.
 

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as a follow up i finally managed to get the time to do the rears.

the Infiniti 4002i speakers require you to modify the rear door panel speaker locations.

NOT GOOD!

but then again it sounds absolutely awesome.

it's not AI's fault. the speakers protrude quite a bit beyond the center line for mounting depths.

once i find a pair of tweeter covers (about 2" diameter) i'll be able to make it look perfect.
 

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I just put in the component fronts today. Took me a little under 3 hours. About 2 hours for the first door, and 1 hour for the second. My biggest problems were:

* I broke a small edge of the door handle trim off the passenger side when I was trying to get it off. Nothing noticeable, but it didn't seem to come off as easily as the driver's side.
* Had trouble getting the huge crossover boxes mounted in a place that didn't obstruct the door panel from being snapped back in. I ended up cutting a wedge out of the foam insert at the bottom back of each door and tried a few different locations (used double-sided tape to test each fitting). The MB Quart crossovers seem a lot bigger than others I've seen posted here.
* I couldn't figure out how much room I had between my speaker magnet and the rolled-down window. I ended up sticking some putty on the end of the magnet in a little pyramid shape (about 1/2" tall) and found out that I have a good 1/4" of space. The IA thick kit was the perfect depth for the MB Quart RCE 216s!

Drove around for 5 minutes testing it out, and I clearly will have to open up the doors again tomorrow. If there's any noticeable bass in a song (and the volume is above 15 or so) I'm getting rattles from the doors. I expect some part of the woofer is tapping against either that interior rim, or the honeycomb plastic stuff (as noted in the IA instructions on their site). Dremel time.

Other than that, it was an interesting experience. Sucks that I'll have to take apart my doors again tomorrow, but that should only take 45 minutes or an hour to do the dremeling. Probably wait until next weekend to do the rears.

Oh, and the MB Quarts sound great, even running off the head unit power. They do start to struggle a bit when you turn the volume up (amp will go in eventually) but for everyday listening, no complaints.

TRM - thanks for the hint on your installation page about the flat connectors for plugging into the door speaker wire harness. The vertical/horizontal +/- thing. That would have caused me some confusion if I hadn't read & printed your page prior to installing (and I wouldn't have gone to the hardware store to get those connectors if I hadn't known about them) :D
 

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pinging vs reflash vs boost creep

I had some similar problems. I wound up making a mod that works but I'm not sure of the wisdom of. I actually mounted the crossovers on the outside of the door panel (inside the car) in the long pockets at the bottom of the panel. That way I can adjust them (although how often will that happen?) and they are out of the way. I kind of wish I had just left them in the door, but it's not a huge deal.

I also need to remove the front door panels again because I too have a rattle, but not as constant as yours. Only at certain frequencies (low ones). The front panels didn't completely pop back into place - the lower front part will not stay popped in. Otherwise they are in and don't seem to vibrate or move at all from driving or listening to the stereo with the exception mentioned above.

No problems whatsoever with the rears. The crossovers for the rears (they are coax but with crossovers) mounted above the foam insert without any modification to the door panel, and the door panels completely popped back in after we decided to mount the speakers all the way inside the doors and ditch the spacers and the idea of mounting them from the outside as normal.

Overall, pretty happy with it. My system doesn't have a load of bass, but I didn't expect it given the door setup and the fact I have no subs. It does sound clean and clear.
 

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That's funny, because after I had some trouble fitting those crossovers inside the door, I tried putting them in the pockets and they fit perfectly! Nice and snug. I was seconds away from drilling a little hole in each pocket to wire them, but I decided to give it one last shot inside the door. Made a placement breakthrough, sliced some of the foam and it all came together. Unfortunately, those two bolts a few inches apart are exactly where you want to install the crossover, so it's raised a little bit off the door frame. A picture would really say a thousand words here, but unfortunately I have yet to buy a digital camera. :(

Sounds like my bass rattle is worse than yours. The only thing I can listen to and not be annoyed is NPR. But I'll post back after I do some door surgery tomorrow morning. I don't have a load of bass either, but it's enough, and they do sound good & clean.
 

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HarlanPepper said:
If there's any noticeable bass in a song (and the volume is above 15 or so) I'm getting rattles from the doors. I expect some part of the woofer is tapping against either that interior rim, or the honeycomb plastic stuff (as noted in the IA instructions on their site). Dremel time.
when you open them up again, note if there is any impression in the woofer from the honeycomb shape of the speaker grill. that would be clear evidence that the woofer is in contact with the grill, and you might need to clip the ridges of the honeycomb down.

if you decide to dremmel, be careful. the plastic heats up easily and can foul the holes in the grill. start with a good sharp pair of wire cutters, and sand down and sharp edges. resort to the dremmel if necessary.

i'm not getting any vibrations/rattles, but i also suspect my rear 4" are in contact and i'm going to have to also remove some of the ridges. it was very tight getting the panel back on even after i bored out a hole for the 2-way extender of the speaker. this isn't in my tech write up since it's not finished until i get covers.

have a look:

anyone have a set of 2" diameter tweeter covers they want to sell me? :D

 

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Just got out of surgery...

I didn't end up using the dremel after all. I used an Xacto knife and trimmed away that thin ridge of plastic, then thinned away some of the honeycomb. After re-installing the door, I would STILL get a little rattle, but now when I'm above 19 on the volume scale. So, I ended up finding a long screw with a large, flat head and screwed it into the top of the IA spacer just a little beyond where the speaker would go when it's really thumpin'. This is doing the trick and props the door out *just* enough so that there's no contact. I knew I was close before putting the extra screw in, because I could stick my hand in the door pocket and barely pull it away from the frame and the rattle would go away. Somewhat ghetto solution, but it works!

And TRM, you're welcome to have my tweeter covers if you want them... but mine are only 1 1/2" wide or so. Probably too small to cover your holes.
 

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HarlanPepper said:
And TRM, you're welcome to have my tweeter covers if you want them... but mine are only 1 1/2" wide or so. Probably too small to cover your holes.
1-1/2" is probably about the bare minimum. i just checked the diameters. i'd like to try them. if they won't work i'll send 'em back to you or if you'd like me to buy them and pay for shipping, email me at [email protected] with your asking price and i'll PayPal you or send off a check.

thanks.

glad your fix worked to reduce the rattle.
 

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for the rear 4" you can mount the adapter plate on the inside of the door panel as well. It is a little tight and shorty phillips head screw driver is needed. The speaker will still mount from the top though. This gains you about 5/16ths of an inch. Glad the rest of the install went well. The crossovers are always a pain to mount your first time aroudn with the wrx. I think it took me 2-3 hours my first time around. They are a bit larger than any other mass produced crossover that I've encountered. No door cover alterations were made, they just fit VERY closely into the back side of the arm rest. A small metal bracket and some zip clips were used.
Now we're toying with installing (2) 6.5s and (2) tweeters in teh front and dumping the 4" option. SHould be interesting.
 

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Can you notice that your door is propped out? I've given thought to doing this as well, I was going to get something that was maybe 3/4" long, round and hollow in the middle so I could put a screw down the middle and fasten the woofer to the adapter and then each corner would have that spacer so it would push the door panel out but it sounds like you may have a better solution!! How much would you say that screw is sticking out?

On the crossovers- I ended up getting some black silicon and attaching them to the door panel right above the styrofoam. That is probably the best location for those puppies as you've likely found out by now!
 
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