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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ya hey der! I just installed a Viper 5900 on my 05 sti, and took a few pictures along the way. This is mainly to show you where the wires are in the car that you need. iwsti has given me so much information in the last year, and I’d like to return what I can help with. If you have a different year, or different alarm, you will have some differences of course.

I got the viper 5900 just before the 5901 came out. The only difference is the remote I believe. I got it from here, but it was $195 plus $13.63 shipping. Do a google shopping search.
Also:
Trunk release solenoid
Vehicle tilt sensor
Glass break audio sensor
Remote start bypass (leaves immobilizer intact, only activates for the remote start.)

Tools:
Screwdrivers
Socket set
Soldering iron
Wire strippers (see note below)
Electrical tape (good stuff, like scotch super 33+)
Digital multi-meter
Zip ties
Diagonal cutters
Electronics knowledge. If you burn something out on your own car, it’s your own fault.

I like these wire strippers:

They fit in tight places, and strip the factory wire easily, without cutting it. Then you just wrap your wire around it, solder, and tape. The brand is Garden Bender I believe, and I got them from Menards.

Here’s someone else’s picture, of just making a butt splice.



Time estimate: A long weekend, if you have all of your connections planned out with electrical diagrams ahead of time, and you’ve done a remote start car alarm before. I did this in my cold garage, with a propane heater pointed at the open driver door. I was really slow, making sure I did everything perfectly.

Use the wiring diagrams to find all the wires you’ll need to connect to. I used these basic ones, which have 90% of what you’ll need to know.

These links used to work, but the source has gone away.

Download 2005 STI diagrams here

The full diagrams are in the service manual, here:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2133157-post15.html
They are huge, slow, and confusing at first. Make sure for the engine controls part, you are in the sti section, not the normally aspirated or turbo section. These diagrams showed me the rear defogger, and which pins on the ecu was for the tach and neutral safety wire. The find function helped a lot.

Where did I start? With the drivers seat. There’s a 14mm bolt at each corner, with plastic covers over the rear two. The rear inboard bolt is bigger than the rest, and I think the rears have big washers, while the fronts don’t. Under the seat is a clip for the seatbelt dinger, and one for the airbag. The airbag one is not so fun. Use a skinny flat head to push the green slider in. After the seat was out, I put down the two end pillows from my couch on either side of that metal hump, so I could lie down and work under the dash upside-down. It was actually kind of comfy.

Take off the under-dash trim. This guy shows it well:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/148929-use-keyless-entry-w-engine-running-turbo-timer-guys-w-factory-alarm.html
but basically, it’s a screw at the left and right bottom corner, and pull the top towards you. Unplug the wires. There’s also a metal plate, with two 10mm bolts.

I mounted the control unit, immobilizer bypass, and sensors under the stereo behind the HVAC, so I took off the shifter and HVAC trim also. Shifter trim just pulls up from the rear, and there's a snap in the leather around the shift knob. HVAC trim has two screws on the bottom, and pulls forward at the top.


Time for wiring. Double check all of your connection points with a meter, to confirm that they are the wires you’re looking for. For example, the door switch wire should show 12 volts until a door is opened. Start with the heavy gauge wires. Why? Because they’re large and in charge.

High current power in: White
There’s a fat white 50amp wire that drives the key switch. Lucky for us, there’s a parallel branch that goes to the bottom of the relay holder. It feeds a little 10amp fuse there, for part of the ABS system. I taped off the white wire there, behind the relay holder. I also used this to the constant power in to the control unit.


Starter output: Yellow
At first, things were looking tough, because of the starter interlock relay. The key switch feeds the positive side of the coil, and the clutch switch feeds the negative side of the coil. Once I found out that this relay is in the same relay holder next to the fuse box, things were easy. The best way to do this is to connect directly to the interlock relay’s output to the starter. It’s a thick yellow wire towards the top of the relay holder. This is the only factory wire that you actually cut, for the starter kill and anti-grind to work. The alarm has a starter output to starter, and a starter input from ignition for each side of the wire you cut to go to.

In the picture, the bottom circle is the white constant power in.

Accessory output: Yellow
Next to the relay holder, is the fuse box. At the bottom of the fuse box, is it’s input, which comes from the ignition switch. Unplug the input, and either of the yellow wires (they’re in parallel) is what you connect to.

Ignition output: Green
Same thing, but either of the green wires.


The viper uses a satellite relay box for the heavy gauge wires. I zip tied it to a bundle of wires up behind the hood release handle. All of my wires were no more than 6 inches to their destinations. Now for the rest of the wires, 80% of the wires I needed were already at the keyless entry unit. It’s the black box above the fuse box. Run your harness nicely over to it, and pull back wires one at a time that go somewhere else. I did mine up over the steel bar in the dash.

Side note: Some of the wires that you use at the keyless entry unit also run to the integrated unit. Don’t bother with the integrated unit, because any of the wires you could use there, also run to the keyless entry unit, plus more.

Ground input: Black
I taped off the ground going to the cigarette lighter. This one you might want to run a wire from the lighter, and have a wire nut in a easy access location during the install. More things later will need ground; solder it when you’re done.

Trunk input (-): Yellow with red stripe
At the keyless entry unit. The door unlock is the same color, so confirm with the meter that you have the wire you want.

Door trigger input (-): Yellow
At the keyless entry unit. If you look at the diagrams, this is the wire for all the doors except the drivers door. If you look at the diagrams closer, you’ll see that both wires run to the indicator in the gauge cluster that show when the door’s open. The drivers door is separated by a diode, and pulls the yellow wire low when it’s open anyways. In the end, this wires shows low when any door is open.

Domelight supervision output:
Not needed! When you hook up the lock to the keyless entry unit, that goes to the integrated unit, the integrated unit drives the locks and the dome light already.

Light flash output (+): Light green with black stripe, and black with green stripe
On this one, you have a decision to make. The stock keyless entry unit flashes the turn signals, not the parking light. Most alarms are connected to the parking lights, but I decided to keep using the turn signals because it looks cool, and I didn’t have to go looking for the parking lights wire then. To use the turn signals, you will need a double pole double throw relay. If you don’t want to use one, use the diagrams, and hook it up to the parking lights.
The two wire colors I mentioned above are for the left and right turn signal. To keep them separate, you will need a DPDT relay; refer to the schematic below. Connect the 2 normally opens (terminals 3 & 4), to the left and right turn signal output wires, one wire for each terminal keeping them seperate. Connect the 2 common terminals (5 & 6) together, to the light flash output from the alarm unit, and also to one side of the coil (7). The other side of the coil (8) goes to ground.
Side note: I don’t think the turn signal bulbs are meant to be run more than 50% duty cycle, they might get kind of warm. When the viper is remote started, the lights are on most of the time, but they do flash about every 2 seconds, and I think they’re off long enough to let the filaments cool down.



Second unlock output (-): Yellow with red stripe
At the keyless entry unit. The trunk input is the same color, so confirm with the meter that you have the wire you want. This is for progressive door locks, like the stock keyless entry system. On the viper, the second unlock output is what triggers the second time you press the button. Connect this to the yellow/red wire, which unlocks all the doors.

Unlock output (-): Orange with black stripe
At the keyless entry unit. This wire runs only from the keyless entry unit, to the integrated unit, to unlock the drivers door only.

Lock output (-): Red with white stripe
At the keyless entry unit. The integrated unit drives the locks, so you don’t have to worry about this being a high current wire.

Horn (-): Red with green stripe
At the keyless entry unit. This drives the relay that drives the horn, so it is not high current.

Brake shutdown input (+): White with black stripe
At the brake pedal.


Hood pin input (-):
I found a hole already here, and connected the ground to the grounding point, so I didn’t have to sand the paint off. It’s kind of visible from outside though, so you might want to move it inwards if you’re that worried about security.


To get the wires through the firewall, there's an awesome rubber plug between the clutch and brake pedal. Once you push the wires through, you have to go under the car to pull them from the engine compartment side.



Rear defogger output (-): Blue
The relay for the rear defogger is inside of the fuse box. There’s a plug on the front top with a blue wire that drives the coil of the relay.


Tachometer input (ac): Green
This is on the ECU, that goes to the tach on the dash. If you search the service manual diagram for “b134” you will find that’s the bottom connector on the ecu. It will also show a pinout of the plug. The ECU is located under the passenger kick panel.

Neutral safety input (-): Green with black stripe
This is on connector b137 at the top of the ECU. I think the 04 (which I thankfully don’t have) has the logic reversed, and you need a relay to flip it.

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Factory beeper (-): Red with yellow stripe
At the keyless entry unit.

An extra thing I did in this install, was to keep the factory keyless entry beeper working like normal. I wanted the lock/unlock to chirp the beeper, but when the alarm goes off, have it switch to the siren, and pulse the horn. If there was a way to get the viper to chirp the horn, without chirping the siren, this would have only required one relay. As it turns out, I used two SPDT relays and a diode. Here’s the diagram, courtesy of mspaint:


The first relay is just to get a low output whenever the siren output from the alarm chirps, because the beeper requires a negative trigger.
The second relay switches from driving the beeper to driving the siren. It’s triggered whenever both the alarm’s siren and horn output are on. It also latches when it’s triggered, and stays latched until the siren output turns off.
The diode is so once the relay’s latched, it won’t keep the horn on constantly. The alarm will keep pulsing it.

In the end, it worked exactly like I wanted it to. The only thing I wish, is that it had a variable duration for the chirp of the siren output, like it does for the horn output. It’s a much quicker beep than the factory system.

The factory immobilizer bypass 556u / 556uw was required for the RFID key. Everybody mentions that you’ll need this, but no one ever said what exactly on it you’ll need to hook up! All it needed was power/ground, the status output from the alarm, which engages it when you remote start, and the antenna output ring. Don’t bother trying to wire this into the factory antenna, and don’t over do this antenna mounting either. It fits great over the whole cylinder with the plastic lighted cover. Just slide it back far enough to be behind the steering column plastic shroud cover, and you won’t ever see it, or have problems with it not being in range. It’s directly on top of the factory antenna at that point there. The bypass module did not need the key sense input, or the true ignition input, though I’ll admit that I haven’t tried this yet with 2 rfid keys, since I only have one. Will fork up the cash for a dealer copy later, and I can only start my car with the remote till then J and have a plain copy for the ignition.

I put the led in the left blank by the IC spray button, and my antenna behind the mirror, with the wire tucked behind the roof and a-pillar trim.

I also did the glass break audio sensor, and the tilt sensor. The trunk pop solenoid I’ll do when it’s warmer outside.

If you have any questions, post them up instead of pm’ing me, so others may learn!
 

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awesome man! i've wanted to install a alarm for a long time but i was always scared about the install.

so now what happens with the factory alarm? is it still in place or do you get rid of it somehow?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
awesome man! i've wanted to install a alarm for a long time but i was always scared about the install.

so now what happens with the factory alarm? is it still in place or do you get rid of it somehow?
I don't think my car has a factory alarm. It has the keyless entry, which still works fine. The viper is just in parallel with that. I know the viper has a factory alarm disarm wire... Does the factory alarm automatically arm? What triggers does it have? Maybe you could remove it, if it's just a box like the keyless entry unit.
 

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well i have keyless entry and the factory alarm. it activates when the doors lock and if you open the trunk or doors with the key or anything else without hitting the unlock button first on the remote the alarm will go off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I took a look at my service manual. There are 3 wires that run between the "security control module" and the "keyless entry control module." They were pink, light green with black, and red with white. One of those probably disarms the security system, you'll have to look at it with a meter, and try manually triggering it. The alarm you buy should have a factory alarm disarm output.

Or, you could just unplug the security control module. :)

Download the manual for your car on the link up there, open the wiring diagram, and search for security.
 

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I have a question for thundercamel.

I own a 2002 WRX and was researching car alarm installation tutorials and came across yours.

I believe that the installation for my alarm on my 02 WRX will be very similar to the one on your STi.

I was just wondering if it is wise to remove the factory keyless entry system completely during the install. My alarm is built with keyless entry and remote start, so I would like to only use the alarm system to control everything and ditch the factory keyless entry remotes.

Right now my car has an after market remote start installed and the factory keyless entry. I haved noticed that the keyless entry functions are disabled when the remote start is enabled, although I have not thoroughly tested what works and what doesn't work with the two systems. Overall I do not use factory keyless entry ever.

I guess if it is too much hassel, I would consider keeping the keyless entry because if I do ever decide the get rid of my car I would probably take the alarm out. And it would be easier to have the keyless entry system there and installed already for the new owner.

I have researched alot about car alarm installations and I have a good idea of the whole process. I also have studied the wiring diagrams for the 2002 WRX and I have made notes of the locations of all the wires I need. However, I am still unsure about RELAYS and such.

To summarize, the installation will require removing the remote start system and possibly the keyless entry system. The new alarm will include all the basics (siren, shock sensor, keyless entry, remote start..) as well as a 4 window module (device to control operation or power windows) and a camera that snaps a picture when the alarm is triggered. It has two AUX outputs that I will use to control the 4 window module and the other one I have not decided yet (maybe to pop the trunk).

Advice from anyone would be much appreciated and also if anyone knows of any sites that have a detailed car alarm installation on a 2002 WRX, I would like to check it out.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I left my factory keyless entry unit in place, and working. Most of the wires from the new alarm run to the factory unit's location, and are just soldered in parallel. (locks, lights, horn, door switches, trunk switch) In your case, just remove the remote starter, and add in the remote start car alarm. Easier said than done, I know.

Is your WRX an automatic? I like the camera idea.
 

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Yeah, I guess I should just leave the keyless entry in place. Thanks for the advice.

My car is a 5 speed. And I love the camera idea as well. That is what enticed me to buy the alarm. I got a great deal on it too from eCarSecurity.com. It is the Scytek Vision Guard 8000. When the alarm is triggered it sends a picture to the two way pager which has a built in screen. And what is great is that the camera has night vision on it. I think it can store up to 10 pictures or something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cool. I hope your car has a neutral safety switch that you can utilize. Mine showed ground when in neutral which was what I needed. I believe the 04's (and maybe yours too) showed ground when the car was in gear, and needed a relay to flip the logic. Makes me wonder if the people that have done that can hear a double click from the relay every time they change gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
great write up! so if i do this will i be able to start it with the key and the reemote??
Yes, it doesn't disable or interfere with the factory theft protection rfid system, the antenna ring only makes it think the key is at the ignition cylinder, when it's actually buried in the dash. You'll be able to start it with any other normally working rfid ignition keys (the black ones).
 

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I know which wire on the clutch needs to be tapped into to bypass it and I know that it needs to be grounded to work, but I do not know which wire it needs to hook up to on my Astrostart system... any help?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
All of the remote start systems I've done have a starter output wire, which sends a positive signal, not ground. If you read the start wire section on the original post, you'll see that grounding the clutch switch is only half of what triggers the starter interlock relay. The positive half comes from the key switch.

I did not bypass my clutch switch, it still functions. Like I said in the tutorial, I connected the systems start output, to the yellow output of the starter interlock relay.

I've never heard of an astrostart system, sorry.
 

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FACTORY ALARM: to Disarm the system or set Valet mode.
Legacy, Outback, Tribeca: When alarm is activated and you don't have the remote to de-activate, just turn the car on.
Impreza(STI), Forester: When alarm is activated and you don't have the remote to de-activate, override by turning key in ignition on-off 3x.

Disarm the alarm system so it doesn't work
1. Sit in the driver's seat and shut all doors and rear gate.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Hold down the UNLOCK side of the driver's power door locking switch on the door and Open the driver's door within the following 1 second!
5. Wait 10 seconds without releasing the switch (holding the lock button).

The setting will then be changed as follows, as indicated in the odometer/trip meter display:
If the system was previously activated: The odometer/trip meter screen displays 'AL oF' and the horn sounds twice, indicating that the system is now deactivated.
If the system was previously deactivated The odometer/trip meter screen displays 'AL on' and the horn sounds once, indicating that the system is now activated.

I just wanted to add this for the people using aftermarket alarms that want to disable the factory keyless entry.
 

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I got the 5901.... Great Write up Im just wondering where the heavy gauge remote start H3 wires go? its a 8-pin connector is it not needed? Trying to install today so if you could let me know that would be great....

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The heavy gauge wires are for the power coming in, accessory power output, ignition power output, and starter output. Look up at my original post for those labels in bold text.
 

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hey wats up i got a real quick question i got a 05 sti and i installed a turbo timer on it and i lock the dor and when it shuts off it automatically unlocks the driver door i was wondering if you would know how to disconnect the auto lock/unlock so it would stay locked????
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I remember reading about using the factory key fob to enable or disable the lock/unlock beeps, but don't remember anything about the auto lock/unlock. Honestly, like everyone else says, the turbo timer isn't needed when the turbocharger is cooled by the engine coolant as well as oil.

This is kind of making me curious now, because after installing my remote start car alarm, my doors don't always auto unlock when I shut the car off. I wish they would. I haven't figured out yet what factor makes it not auto unlock, and all I can think of is whether I start my car before or after I get into it.

Maybe if you open your door once after every time you start your car, it won't auto unlock.
 

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I plan on buying the 5901 and hooking up all the goodies. I have background in electronics so ill be doing the install myself. thanks for posting this so that others may do so.

OT question but how do i test if my shock sensor is working? I know i hit the car to test, but where is the best spot? My car came with some extra modules in the trunk and I think one of them is the shock sensor... I dont know if its an old one and its been replaced or if my car is missing one.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The 5901 will come with a new shock sensor. I thought mine had an LED for warning, and full alert, for testing. If you want to test your mystery shock sensor, as long as it has power, you could use a meter on the output to see if it's working. Most will have a single output, and the control unit will measure the duration to either give a warn, or full alarm.

The instructions said to strap the shock sensor to a wire bundle, which I thought was stupid. You always hear car alarms going off from loud sounds, and I'll bet they're attached to something flimsy. I strapped mine to metal on the side of the stereo, and turned the sensitivity to max. As I see it, a hit anywhere in the car will transfer through metal better than a wiring harness.
 
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