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I'm currently running the IAG Stage 2 block on my 17 STi. I was just wondering if any of you guys are running a similar setup and how much power you're running through it. Im looking to upgrade to an FP green turbo sometime in the near future and just wanted to make sure the block could handle it...
 

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I have the iag stage2 tuff block. The difference in mine and the basic stage 2 is the rods. Currently I’m on a blouch 20g xtr making 377whp/401wtq (on iag’s dyno). The motor can handle more. However currently my weak point is in the heads. Because of having stock valves/springs, iag suggested no more than 24psi through it. Which on e85 would easily hold up to my 20g and probably make in the 410whp range. However the motor is rated for 675bhp which translates roughly to a tad over 500whp, granted the amount it can make will vary pending turbo/fuel/tune etc. if you don’t have any head work done, you’ll be limited by oem valves/springs on how much boost you can safely run.

before choosing a turbo, what are your goals for the car? Do you just want a fun street car? Any specific power level? Are you wanting to compete in any racing? If yes then are you limited in turbo size by class?
 

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I'm currently running the IAG Stage 2 block on my 17 STi. I was just wondering if any of you guys are running a similar setup and how much power you're running through it. Im looking to upgrade to an FP green turbo sometime in the near future and just wanted to make sure the block could handle it...
Short answer, yes. That block's limit is usually the case itself (cylinders split with high hp). There is no consensus on the limit of the case but I have seen 475 to 550 whp from different sources. However, most say no more than 500 whp without a closed deck. This is of course, with the premise of a good tune and supporting mods.
Someone mentioned iag's bhp rating here. Their website has that block's bhp rating. And like someone else said, your best bet is calling iag.
But it can handle the fp green without a doubt.
 

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I have the iag stage2 tuff block. The difference in mine and the basic stage 2 is the rods. Currently I’m on a blouch 20g xtr making 377whp/401wtq (on iag’s dyno). The motor can handle more. However currently my weak point is in the heads. Because of having stock valves/springs, iag suggested no more than 24psi through it. Which on e85 would easily hold up to my 20g and probably make in the 410whp range. However the motor is rated for 675bhp which translates roughly to a tad over 500whp, granted the amount it can make will vary pending turbo/fuel/tune etc. if you don’t have any head work done, you’ll be limited by oem valves/springs on how much boost you can safely run.

before choosing a turbo, what are your goals for the car? Do you just want a fun street car? Any specific power level? Are you wanting to compete in any racing? If yes then are you limited in turbo size by class?
Karlot,
I can’t PM you but I’m wondering how is the IAG stage 2 Tuff holding up? Current miles on it?
 

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Karlot,
I can’t PM you but I’m wondering how is the IAG stage 2 Tuff holding up? Current miles on it?
Gotta get your post count up to be able to pm, keeps spammers away, so keep active on here and you’ll be able to pm.
The IAG block has been solid. I currently have roughly 45k miles on it. 6-8 autocross days. And a trackcross event. As well as street miles. I’m a firm believer that IAG makes one of the best motors on the market for these cars, I have quite a few friends with IAG blocks, ranging from daily driven to weekend cars. And a handful of race setups too. The stage2 tuff is good. But also py attention to what the power rating is. The stage2 tuff is rated for 675bhp, which translates to about 530whp. Happy to help if I can answe any questions you may have just let me know
 

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Thanks for the reply. I’m just trying to get statistics on around iag stage 2 tuff level and their longevity. I’ve talked to IAG and they’ve said it’s possible to get 100k+. I wanted to see if that was the case from actual users.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I’m just trying to get statistics on around iag stage 2 tuff level and their longevity. I’ve talked to IAG and they’ve said it’s possible to get 100k+. I wanted to see if that was the case from actual users.
SEE USER1029

I have a similar IAG block at 80K, it runs fine but shows some signs of loosing compression - haven't decided exactly what I want to do about it. At over 260K, the whole car needs a refresh - but it 's in good enough shape to be worth it. GDs are special cars to me. . . . One day I'll get around to doing a compression test.

Tomorrow I am going to spend a day at a dealer for a passenger side airbag recall/replacement. SOA keeps sending me mail sayin it might kill someone . . ."Kids" will be home for thanksgiving and they aren't riding in that seat without . . .
 
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Thanks for the reply. I’m just trying to get statistics on around iag stage 2 tuff level and their longevity. I’ve talked to IAG and they’ve said it’s possible to get 100k+. I wanted to see if that was the case from actual users.
You’ll need a refresh in the motor at some point. I’m sure I will too. But the motor has held up well. I was super strict about break in procedures. And to this day I change the oil even more frequently than iag even calls for. Overall though. It’s a solid block with a lot of r&d and a lot of proven long term uses
 

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Thanks for the info. I was hoping it would last longer. I was wondering if cosworth pistons would last longer but IAG seems to throw cold water on that theory due to newer piston design, according to them. I know Rallispec still seems to have stock of Cosworths.

My use case is 400whp on 93. Street pulls but nothing sustained for long periods of time like track use.
 

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Thanks for the info. I was hoping it would last longer. I was wondering if cosworth pistons would last longer but IAG seems to throw cold water on that theory due to newer piston design, according to them. I know Rallispec still seems to have stock of Cosworths.

My use case is 400whp on 93. Street pulls but nothing sustained for long periods of time like track use.
Keep in mind, you really won’t find a built engine that lasts any longer than that, without needing a refresh (tear down/rebuild with new rings/bearings). The only way you’ll get something to last longer is oem. If you don’t track and just do street pulls, an oem block may last longer. But probably won’t be much longer.
 

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Keep in mind, you really won’t find a built engine that lasts any longer than that, without needing a refresh (tear down/rebuild with new rings/bearings). The only way you’ll get something to last longer is oem. If you don’t track and just do street pulls, an oem block may last longer. But probably won’t be much longer.
I don't agree here:

1) Plenty of STIs have gone to 200k. Mine was built at 185K, but it still ran though it burnt oil. I believe it would have made it to 200K if that had been my goal. IAG generally says hope for 100K.

2) I believe the issue is that 2618 pistons are soft and wear. 4032 and similar proprietary alloys should get you will get where you want to be for any street build with less wear and I think less warmup stringent warmup times.

IAG build my whole engine and bay. They did an incredible job. I certainly got my moneys worth ( and i was a lot - like more than I paid for the car) Still I wish I'd gone 4032 . . . and Rallispec is very near . . . far nearer than IAG and Rallispec rebuilt my trans so I am familiar with and trust them now too . . . If/when I do a full refresh - (one I suspect could have been avoided - at least for a bit) I could well end up at there.

I would not build the SB but I would at least do RAR myself, if not build the rest of the engine.
 
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I need to reach out to Rallispec, but I wonder if the fire lock machining is proprietary to IAG. I’m not planning on running E85 and high boost so I don’t need it. But Andrewtech seems to highly recommend it to virtually eliminate head gasket failure.
 

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I don't agree here:

1) Plenty of STIs have gone to 200k. Mine was built at 185K, but it still ran though it burnt oil. I believe it would have made it to 200K if that had been my goal. IAG generally says hope for 100K.

2) I believe the issue is that 2618 pistons are soft and wear. 4032 and similar proprietary alloys should get you will get where you want to be for any street build with less wear and I think less warmup stringent warmup times.

IAG build my whole engine and bay. They did an incredible job. I certainly got my moneys worth ( and i was a lot - like more than I paid for the car) Still I wish I'd gone 4032 . . . and Rallispec is very near . . . far nearer than IAG and Rallispec rebuilt my trans so I am familiar with and trust them now too . . . If/when I do a full refresh - (one I suspect could have been avoided - at least for a bit) I could well end up at there.

I would not build the SB but I would at least do RAR myself, if not build the rest of the engine.
you dont agree? but unless i'm misunderstanding, you agreed with your point number 1 lol. if yours was built at 185k, then when you got to 200k, that would only be 15k miles. i'm not saying the car wont last that long, i'm saying a BUILT engine likely wont without needing a refresh.

i agree with your point about the piston type. from my understanding (which could be wrong, if it is please correct/educate me), is that the 4032 pistons will still last, but because they are still forged not as long as an oem type piston, granted, the 4032 will take more power without worry, and the 2616 will take more than the 4032, at the expense of longetivity. the 2616 i hear will last anywhere from 60-100k pending use type, and the 4032 will last 100k ish, vs oem type which, provided arent abused, will last 300k+ with simple everyday type driving......is this correct?
 

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I agree with the above. Didn't go back and read.

2618 app 100K
4032 ? ? ?
OEM 200K - though a rare one makes closer to 300k


I believe IAG mostly does 2618 because they have em figured out perfectly. They are an awesome option on high power applications. Still I am not sure I wouldn't have been better served with 4032s. The car was to be a DD and I was (even then), a safety oriented adult. My car was never going to have a FMIC and loose its OEM bumper beam. Just as importantly, It is not a closed deck. That power which I was built for is limited and I suspect 4032 would have been fine. It is similar to yours. If it gets refreshed I'll add FF. Otherwise it is what it is. If I were going to do another build it would be with a body in better shape and it would be a high power build. Things have changed.

The 2020 was bought with that in mind, but has proven to disinterest me in that regard. It is a very nice car. It will stay that way.
 
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I agree with the above. Didn't go back and read.

2618 app 100K
4032 ? ? ?
OEM 200K - though a rare one makes closer to 300k


I believe IAG mostly does 2618 because they have em figured out perfectly. They are an awesome option on high power applications. Still I am not sure I wouldn't have been better served with 4032s. The car was to be a DD and I was (even then), a safety oriented adult. My car was never going to have a FMIC and loose its OEM bumper beam. Just as importantly, It is not a closed deck. That power which I was built for is limited and I suspect 4032 would have been fine. It is similar to yours. If it gets refreshed I'll add FF. Otherwise it is what it is. If I were going to do another build it would be with a body in better shape and it would be a high power build. Things have changed.

The 2020 was bought with that in mind, but has proven to disinterest me in that regard. It is a very nice car. It will stay that way.
true. i get that. mine i just went with the iag block, i honestly didnt learn about the piston types until after the motor was in/working/broken in haha. oh well. i'm really not super worried about it. I plan on eventually running e85 full time. and having a few tunes pending what class and event type i'm doing. should range from 390-399whp to about 425ish. at the end of the day, mine will still be a street car. i have a list of what i want to do to it, and i used to want alot more, but life/plans change. as of now, seats/rollbar, fuel system/fmic and slight suspension upgrades, mainly bushings, and i'll be happy with where it's at. still a street car but competitive in local trackcross and nasa tt3 should i ever get into time attack.
 

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Shops are claiming to safely get new stock blocks to near 400AWHP. The question is Is that actually safe, and what limitations are involved. If you need a block anyway then a built block can be better block in other ways such as tolerances and balance.
 

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Shops are claiming to safely get new stock blocks to near 400AWHP. The question is Is that actually safe, and what limitations are involved. If you need a block anyway then a built block can be better block in other ways such as tolerances and balance.
I have seen quite a few that have made slightly over 400whp for a decently long term without any issues, the caveat to that is that every single one is running e85 when making that level of power, on pump gas they all seem to be making 350whp or less. it would be nice if i could make and track a type RA block making 430ish, as they'd be much cheaper to replace if necessary. but idk how feasable that actually would be.
 

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I have seen quite a few that have made slightly over 400whp for a decently long term without any issues, the caveat to that is that every single one is running e85 when making that level of power, on pump gas they all seem to be making 350whp or less. it would be nice if i could make and track a type RA block making 430ish, as they'd be much cheaper to replace if necessary. but idk how feasable that actually would be.
Flatirons Tuning in Colorado runs an RA block in their Pikes Peak race car. It makes 420’s on e85. You can email them. They have a youtube channel and are responsive by email if you ask them questions. Knowledgeable shop.
 
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