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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
With so many bad drivers and vandals around these days, it amazes me how many people still drive around without a dashcam. This is one of the few modifications that will not only not void your warranty but could potentially save you a lot of money and stress in the future in regards to insurance claims.


Pros of hardwiring a dashcam:

- The camera will be running 24/7 no need to worry about whether you or your friend has unplugged it.

- Impossible to forget to plug it in.

- You will still have access to your cigarette socket.

- Parking mode/recording even while the car is off.

Cons of hardwiring a dashcam

- You don't want to scratch your panels or cut/splice into wires.

- Worried it will look messy

- Battery going flat


My Method

I feel like my method is a very good one for hardwiring a dashcam as it has the following advantages:

- All the wiring/cables will look neat and be hidden.

- If needed the wiring can be removed in 10 minutes or less.

- I run no cables through the engine bay or firewall so you don't have to worry about waterproofing.

- I remove only one panel.

- I recommend getting a PowerPack or similar device that will detect your battery voltage and cut off the camera if it gets too low. However I run a camera on my car without one and have left it for days without getting a flat battery.

Tools/Equipment

- Pliers
- Multimeter or Test Device
- Subaru Manual
- Crimps/Lugs
- Cable (Depending if your camera came with any)
- Dashcam with hardwire kit
- Add-A-Circuit Fuses
- Automotive Fuses (I used 5A fuses but you can use smaller)

Instructions


1. Locate the fuse panel. You will want to use the one behind the driver side dash, as its easily accessible due to Subaru putting a little cover/door in front of it as well as the fact you won't need to waterproof anything.



2. Identify the fuses/circuits you will need. You will need a battery source, an accessories source and a grounding point. I used the following fuses/circuits, please check your Subaru user manual to confirm they are the same in your car. Should be on page (12-11).

- For a constant battery source I used Fuse 10 which is a 7.5A fuse and in the user manual is labelled as "Power supply (battery)".

- For a accessories power source i used Fuse 20 which is a 10A fuse and in the user manual is labelled as "Accessory power outlet (instrument panel)"

- For a grounding point I just used any bolt behind the dash as long as its connected to metal not plastic.






3. Running the dashcam cable. Pull the rubber trim/door seal so it is partially hanging off, now grab the a pillar and pull it up towards the roof. You do not need to remove the A-Pillar completely as you should be able to get your hands in there.



4. You will want to run your cable up through the dash and into the A Pillar. You may need to lie down in the footwell and look up through the bottom of the dash. You will see light coming through and that will be where the A-Pillar you unclipped is.

Its a lot easier if you have something semi-rigid you can tape the cable to and feed through the dash. I used a cable snake, you could also use a ruler, fencing wire, a stick anything long and skinny.




5. Run the cable up the A-Pillar and across into the headliner you can do this using your hands. To get the cable into the headliner I just got my fingers around the edge pulled it down a little bit and pushed the cable inside. You will want to leave a little bit hanging out of the headliner near your rearview mirror as it will need to plug into your dashcam



6. Now identify which of the wires needs to be connected to ground, battery or accessories. Most camera manufacturers will label them with a sticker or list it in the instructions. Generally black wire is ground, yellow wire is battery and red wire is accessories.

7. Remove the two fuses you identified in Step 2 from the fuse panel. These were Fuse 10 and Fuse 20. Now take your Add-A-Circuit fuses (you should have two of them) which will have a spot for two fuses. The fuse location closest to the terminals (metal prongs) will be the original Subaru fuse you pulled out of the fuse box (the 7.5A or 10A).

The second location will be for your new additional circuit AKA the dashcam. You should have a low amp rating fuse in the second location I used 5A as that's what I had at the time.

So now you should have two Add-A-Circuit fuses set up and ready. One should have a 7.5A fuse and a smaller fuse of your choice. The second Add-A-Circuit fuse should have a 10A fuse and a smaller fuse of your choice.




8. Now crimp your cables together. You will want to strip the cables from the dashcam and insert them into the crimp now using crimpers or your pliers you will want to crimp the blue lug. Tug on the cables to ensure it won't come out.

Remember your 10A fuse should be connected to the accessory wire (generally red). The 7.5A fuse should be connected to the battery wire (generally yellow). In my photo you'll notice my Add-A-Circuits are missing a fuse in each this was due to me taking the photo before putting them in. Yours should already be in.






9. Now take your ground cable which generally comes with a crimp already on it, all you need to do is find a bolt underneath the dash, loosen it slide the crimp under and then retighten the bolt. Make sure the bolt is connected to something metal not plastic. I was losing daylight and forgot to take a photo of this. But I used a bolt down near the pedals

10. Plug in your Add-A-Circuit fuses into the fuse box. Make sure you have the correct locations.

The Add-A-Circuit with the 7.5A fuse should be connected to the dashcams battery wire and should go into location 10 on the fusebox

The Add-A-Circuit with the 10A fuse should be connected to the dashcams accessory wire and should go into location 20 on the fusebox.




11. Now mount your dashcam on your windscreen, take the length of cable you left hanging out of the headliner behind the rear view mirror and plug it in. If you find you have too much slack in the cable then you can tuck the excess back into the headliner





12. Everything should be working now all you want to do is tidy up any loose cables, I just coiled them up in a neat bundle and put a cable tie around them then tucked them up behind the dash. I used another cable tie to tie the bundle to existing wires so it would stay up out of the way and won't be visible.



Now go enjoy your new dashcam and peace of mind!


Note: To remove the dashcam wiring just unplug your two Add-A-Circuits from fuse location 10 and fuse location 20. Now pull the 7.5A and 10A fuses out of the Add-A-Circuits and plug them straight back into their respective spots in the fuse box.
 
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