IW STi Forum banner

How much did the fix cost?

  • Less than $3000

    Votes: 5 20.8%
  • $3000 to $3499

    Votes: 1 4.2%
  • $3500 to $3999

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $4000 to $4499

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • $4500 to $4999

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • $5000 to $5499

    Votes: 1 4.2%
  • $5500 to $5999

    Votes: 3 12.5%
  • $6000 or more

    Votes: 10 41.7%

  • Total voters
    24
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,051 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm curious. For those of you who for whatever reason grenaded the stock motor in your STI, what did the total cost end up being to get your car back into running condition. I'd prefer only those people respond who did not significantly upgrade at the same time, and just went for a good solid replacement motor (say, no more than the typical stage 1 engines several vendors offer). If you had to do head work, please post in the thread saying so.

Feel free to respond with more detail -- for example, it would be interesting to hear how long the work took (calendar time between breaking and the moment your car is back in your hands).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
car died while cruising down the road, spun rod bearing, replaced under warranty plus $1,800 out of my own pocket. Total bill was over $6,000. Heads, cams, followers, turbo, and oem shortblock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,051 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
fullerton said:
Planning on her popping soon?
I hope not ;). I'm curious if my $5K that is set aside specifically for this occurence is enough or not. It gets me thinkin' when I see a few random engine failures posted on the forums...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
keep in mind, with online help forums such as this, what you will tend to see are people with popped engines asking for help. The majority without problems don't bother posting "everything is great with my car" threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
theres alot of money in engine work any way you cut it. In this world you really do get what you pay for. I had an axis stage 2 motor that had ben rebuilt with heads and cams from a blown motor. Turned out the heads and cams were damaged and couldnt function right to get the big power. So i put on AMR race heads and cams and had the whole motor stripped and made into a full automaster block. By the time you yank to motor out and put it back in 2 times, and do all the motor work + balance and blueprint. God i dont even want to think of the bill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,510 Posts
ITSASTI said:
...By the time you yank to motor out and put it back in 2 times, and do all the motor work + balance and blueprint...
Labor is always the number that bites everyone in the ass. It's just the naure of a street car...there is a LOT of crap to unhook and refasten that, in a race car simply isn't there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,330 Posts
Mine was 6K for the short block with forged internals, all the machining, getting the heads done (basically similar to COBB stage 1) & labor to put it in. I bought about 2K of extras I decided to do "while we were in there" (Perrin coated header, Fuel pressure regulator, Perrin Fuel rails, etc, etc..).

So the total was more like 8K + after all was said & done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,051 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
supermarkus said:
keep in mind, with online help forums such as this, what you will tend to see are people with popped engines asking for help. The majority without problems don't bother posting "everything is great with my car" threads.
Hmmm, there's another opportunity for a poll :lol:. "Did you engine blow up? Yes or No."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,951 Posts
If I had decided to leave the heads stock and just swap in forged pistons, I think I could have done it for around $5-6k. My projects have a tendency to snowball however, and I'm in for roughly double that. But I have $3k into the heads alone (heads should be done tomorrow!)

Labor is the killer, as others have said.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,026 Posts
$1600 for removal, dissassembly, cleaning, checking, reassembly and the trip to the machine shop (across town). $1250 for new forged pistons, bored, balanced and blueprinted. $250 for gaskets and reassembly parts.

$3050 total plus $700 for new clutch and lightened flywheel.

CB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,951 Posts
^ wow, I got quoted more than that by a very well known shop just for labor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,330 Posts
fastcb said:
$1600 for removal, dissassembly, cleaning, checking, reassembly and the trip to the machine shop (across town). $1250 for new forged pistons, bored, balanced and blueprinted. $250 for gaskets and reassembly parts.

$3050 total plus $700 for new clutch and lightened flywheel.

CB
Thats dirt cheap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,026 Posts
Yeah, I know I got a good deal on a great engine. Steve @ FIS said I got the last one at that price. This thing kicked his ass! The price for everyone else will be much more. I called ARFab and they want like $3750 for a basic short block. Eek!

CB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,510 Posts
fastcb said:
...I called ARFab and they want like $3750 for a basic short block...
Hmmm...what is Howard's defintion of "basic?" Do you know? For all the others, that pretty much covers pistons, rods, bearings, balancing and assembly. IOW, not so "basic." :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
My first one cost 6000$ The way I look at it is if you spin a bearing or mave material in the oil system then it should be about 6 given everything needed to be replaced and machined. Verses a low compression car where things are reused and pistons are replaced then it should be sub 3000
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,458 Posts
$1600 for removal, dissassembly, cleaning, checking, reassembly and the trip to the machine shop (across town). $1250 for new forged pistons, bored, balanced and blueprinted. $250 for gaskets and reassembly parts.

$3050 total plus $700 for new clutch and lightened flywheel.
CB
The above is not close to normal.

$3K to remove and replace is far closer for a high quality Subaru shop.
$2K for a stock SB

and then there is the stuff that you might be able to get away with but a good shop will insist be replaced. Cam gears and oil cooler are on that list. What about the turbo. A good shop will want to build you something they and you can depend on and they won't take chances. They simply have seen all the things go wrong that can. In my case a new oil pan was a good example. Shop simply said replace. I said what? I'm not upgrading. They said, yours is 7 years old, has 185K on it and looks a bit rusted. We're not putting it on as it is. We can check it and paint it, but a new one is $80. It will add up, and a good shop will be right about most things. This list will be affected by what grenaded means in a particular case, and the condition of the car when it occurred.

I think this is one reason people build - they're already spending a lot of money. Doubling it (or more) to do it right and have something awesome isn't such a big deal if they can afford it. It was certainly part of my justification for building a car with app 185K mi on it. Details:

I paid more for the build than I did for the car in 2012 when it had 94K mi on it :) It was replace all things engine-wise. "Everything" was new.
Elapsed shop time 2 weeks - a scheduled build on a worn engine not and an exploded one - though ALL the same work was done as if it were exploded except that the block was good to re-machine and there were no bent valves. Still driving it at 255K+ mi - It has already met its minimum goal to have been worthwhile. In fact, less than after the build I shattered an ankle and couldn't drive for 6mo and then an only automatic for another three. I proclaimed then that if I never got to drive it again it was already worth while. I think that was in 2015 :) :) :)
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top