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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
-MODS-
94 octane
Intake
equal length header
3" turbo back cat less exhaust
unichip
STOCK turbo at 18.5 PSI
STOCK top mount intercooler
 

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bigjon75 said:
-MODS-
94 octane
Intake
equal length header
3" turbo back cat less exhaust
unichip
STOCK turbo at 18.5 PSI
STOCK top mount intercooler
how does your car feel? reliability? must be a huge difference from stock. do you have any 1/4 mile times with that setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ryu12341 said:
bigjon75 said:
-MODS-
94 octane
Intake
equal length header
3" turbo back cat less exhaust
unichip
STOCK turbo at 18.5 PSI
STOCK top mount intercooler
how does your car feel? reliability? must be a huge difference from stock. do you have any 1/4 mile times with that setup?
The reliability hasn’t change 8) and boy there’s a HUGE difference :D then stock. The equal length head take some low end from the car but boy the mid rang is grate and the high end is incredible. You know the feeling when the torque starts dropping off and the car feels like is slows down well now you can't even feel the torque dropping off the car just keeps on pushing forward as you sink farther into your seat in tell you hit the rev limiter :D .
 

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Did you pay under MSRP for your Sti?

bigjon75 said:
-MODS-
94 octane
Intake
equal length header
3" turbo back cat less exhaust
unichip
STOCK turbo at 18.5 PSI
STOCK top mount intercooler
EDIT:
Let me rephrase

1) Will it be a plug and play, or require tuning? (Many don't have an all-wheel drive dyno in their city.)

2) We need to see their stock dyno graph of this car, plotted against the dyno above-it's the change that counts.

3) We need to see the respective A/F graphs that go w/ those dynos.

They need to provide this info. before more people will seriously start to consider their kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well with the setup that I have and a AVO 500 I reached 440 crank hp at 17 PSI, my injector and fuel pump just could not keep up so ill have to go bigger. Im thinking 650 CFM for the injectors and 255 for the fuel pump. And going to test an 18g as well.

If you want the same setup as me its going to cost 2,500.00
 

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alls i gotta say is im gonna try to put my own kit togther and custom fabricate the exhasut and see how that pulls out....im thinken 3" turbo back and a sweet air intake setup behind the foglight cover on the passenger side...
 

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no offense, but dyno numbers are diff from one dyno to another.

all i care are the delta numbers from stock to modified.

on a recent VISHNU dyno day, a stock STi was under 220... 216, IIRC. after the stage 1 kit, it was around 255.
 

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dam only 220 thats disgusting! :eek: gawd dam i want more power already! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
heres some info on the dyno we use to get the 430hp & 455ftq


The DYNOPACK dynamometer is a technologically advanced apparatus that applies a variable but precise hydraulic load via a fixed coupling to the driven wheels of a motor vehicle to simulate road conditions in the workshop.

The DYNOPACK's unique hydraulic operation allows it to quickly and accurately measure engine and drive line performance with sensitivity capable of measuring the headlights being turned on.

The DYNOPACK series is attached directly to the wheel hubs, thereby eliminating all the disadvantages of tyre distortion including noise, torque steer, loss of traction, tyre heat and variations in tyre design and wear. Direct coupling eliminates the need to estimate torque and enables the dynamometer to make very sensitive readings over a very wide range of engine speeds. The elimination of the tyre roller interface means that the results are more precise and repeatable.
The effect of this increased precision is hard to gauge as the Dynopacks series continues to break new ground as a diagnostic tool in the automotive industry.

The DYNOPACK dynamometer is completely mobile (controller and absorption units are all wheeled) and apart from single phase power, connecting a standard 'garden hose' for cooling purposes and an exhaust muffler for internal installations, there are virtually no installation costs. As well, the Dynopack is completely portable and can be transported to various locations, unlike every other dynamometer, which are expensive to install since they required 'fixed in-ground' installations, 3 phase power connection, cooling ducts, dedicated (not reusable) floor space, and often large water storage facilities. The DYNOPACK can be wheeled away (against a wall) whilst not in use, and has nominal running costs (power consumption is that of a standard PC, and the water usage is restricted to the very small dynamometer 'run times').

Dynopack dynamometers are available in 2 & 4 wheel drive.
 

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I'm seriously contemplating this upgrade kit, but...

we all still need to see the Air/Fuel graph of this run (preferably plotted agianst the stock A/F curve, to be sure that it is w/in safe tolerances.
 

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bigjon75, why was the TCF at 1.3?? where was the temp probe located?? were they any fans blowing on the front of the car? This TCF seems EXTREMELY high. I ask because the temp probe on my runs slipped down by the battery and I put up a tcf of 1.5 before we realized something was wrong and put the probe back on top of the IC where we were running it for all the other WRX's. If you have the plot of the temps we could see what the ambient temps were to see why the tcf is so high.

I had my car on a dynapack yesterday with a TCF of 1.0 I put down 261hp, 271 ft-lb. Mods are a Greddy profec B Spec II, Invidia Dp and custom 3" catback with highflow cat and straight through turbo muffler. everything else stock. (by using a 1.0tcf, the results of the plots you posted would be 301 & 318 still very nice indeed :D )

I can tell you are making good power, but I question the 1.3 tcf.

here are my charts:





 

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I have to call in question BigJon's sheet. I have had many STI's on my Dynapack dyno as well as hours and hours and hours with my own STi. Assuming 20% driveline loss I sincerely doubt it is possible to achieve those numbers and that shape of the curve especially on 94 octane with stock camshafts. Secondly, the car WILL detonate at anything over 17 PSI on the stock turbo and 93-94 octane fuel. THirdly, the power does NOT stay up at redline. It actually falls like a rock at 6000 RPM or so. Lastly, I have peak torque at 3200 RPM and full boost by 2800 RPM. His chart looks like a big turbo car on a different motor altogether. I'd like to see his chart with power at the wheels. Otherwise I do not believe it.
 
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