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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)


So as you all know, because it's all I ever talk about, is this stupid idea I have for a land speed run.

The long story: (skip down for the short story)

August 13 2012, I take delivery of a brand new Sti Hatchback. I drive it 7 miles and buy an invidia exhaust just to hear some rumble. I notice some fueling issue and a serious wag the tail handling issue and take it to a local subie performance shop who proceed to sell me an AP that was not quite ready to be programmed by Cobb work with the new cars. Call me skeptical, but that changes my opinion of that shop.


I meet the guys at RBMS for an oil change and find some extremely honest dudes. They introduce me to the crazy Brit and well... Let the games begin.

June 2013 the car goes onto the lift to yank the motor out...I want to go 200 mph in the standing mile.

Lol...



Anyways, many many changes here and there... Watching a GTR crush the a pillar with a shoddy cage after a roll at 80 mph on the drag strip, as well as that famous roll at pikes peak by the Evo... I've decided to just build a caged race car.

The next post will have the build specs of the car as I can remember them...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)


I am going to do my best with the vehicle spec sheet:

Vehicle:

2013 Subaru Impreza WRX STi Hatchback

Chassis Modification:

Rigid subframe collars
Superpro bushings
Cusco under chassis bracing
Aeroism research carbon fibre and Kevlar roof
Kaminari reverse scoop hood, extra support bracketry, hood latching
JDM Passport gurney flap
Apr mirrors
Additional aerodynamic pieces being produced
Possible new fenders

Interior Modifiations:

Interior removal
Racetech 4119hrw seats, seat belts
Personal Grinta 350mm wheel, nrg hub and quick release
Custom center console guage mount
Aim mxl2 dash
Tint rear doors and back
Current building cage
Safecraft FE36 fire suppression

Fuel System:

Walbro 255 in tank pump
Surge tank feeding dual Bosch 044 pumps
Pre and post surge tank fuel lab inline filters
-AN lines to and stock lines from
Turbosmart FPR
IAG fuel rails
ID2000 injectors
Cobb flex fuel system

Drivetrain:

ACT prolight flywheel
ACT 6 puck clutch with HD pressure plate
Stainless braided clutch line
Stock STi transmission
DSS carbon shaft
OS Giken LSD 1.5 way with GST Motorsport custom settings
MSI diff cover
Sti short shifter with Kartboy short shifter
Authentic one off special magical guaranteed to get you laid shifter extension from the "L"
Tigwerks trans mount

Engine:

RED sleeved block
JE pistons with coating
Pauter Rods
Manley Crank
Ported/polished head
Ti valve retainers etc
Supertech inconel +1mm intake and exhaust valves
BC Valve springs
Cosworth S2D Camshafts
Cosworth oil pump
Tomei belt and belt guide
LIC pump block off plates
IAG TGV deletes
PW intake manifold
Fluidampr balancer
Killer b pickup, pan, slosh plate, water outlet
IAG AOS
Aem 5 bar MAP/temp etc
TIAL BOV
Turbosmart EWG
Cobb AP stock ecu (for now)
Solid billet motor mounts lower, Perrin dog bone
Okada Plasma Direct Ignitors

Motor built by Mert Solis of RBMS

Exhaust
Gtx3576r system:.85 Tial hotside, killer b header, rotated up pipe, ETS downpipe and Q300
Gtx4088r system:.99 Tial hotside Custom header/pipe work and exhaust be made by Tigwerks

Cooling:

Ron Davis custom radiator
Perrin "race" oil cooler kit
ETS fmic

Suspension:

RCE clubsports
Cusco lca and other pieces
Super pro sway bars
Kartboy end links
RCE front adj top hats
Msi solid rear top hats
Super pro bushings everywhere

2015 STi steering rack

Braking:

Perrin brace
Stoptech Trophy 6/4 kit
Ferodo ds2500 pads

Wheel/Tire:

Gram lights 57DR 18x9.5 +38 255/35/18 direzza's
Gram lights 57xtreme 18x9.5 +40 265/18 continental IMSA GTO slicks
Stockers (actually fit over brakes!)

Lighting:

Fog light LED
Tail light tint
Diode dynamic brake light blinker switch


Additional to be built:

Tbd: parachute system
Rear wing (possible DRS and active brake)
Flatbottom and diffuser with exhaust and rear bumper modification
A/c, heater to plumb to seats
 

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Slide what rad do you have...looks very beefy. Need more pics of the car, and a list of what's been done...pretty please :D I have actually been dying to see a build thread of your car
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ron Davis radiator. With no oil cooler (bad idea I my mind). Uses stock shroud and fan. I sent them the shroud etc for the build and it is huge and barely fits!
I'll get pics up she I find a better photo hosting site. The smugmug place was a temporary spot that I tried when photobucket crashed.
 

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Good to know regarding the Ron Davis rad...there may be a post on my journal regarding that rad...but I may have spoiled the surprise lol...stick with photobucket...look forward to seeing more pics :)

Also for your rad, what rad shroud do you have, and do you think it helps out?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rad shroud will always help. I had a killer b but it wouldn't even fit the stock radiator and killer b told me to pound sand... So I took it and modified it to fit the RD radiator.
 

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killer b told me to pound sand...
Are you sure I didn't say, "we make them to fit the OEM radiators"? I'm pretty sure I didn't say to go pound sand.

Are you the guy that asked me about the T4 Tial header modification? I've been consulting with a few of you landspeed lunatics (and I mean that in the nicest way) lately, on engine/turbo/header/intake setups.

IMO that 4088 isn't going to make nearly enough power to push 200mph. I'd highly recommend the GTX4594. It will make much more power at less manifold backpressure (much better pressure ratio). Trying to push a brick like a Subaru through the air at 200mph is going to take some really big numbers.

At your speeds you may be able to downsize that radiator. With the amount of ambient being pushed through, the radiator becomes VERY efficient. We run our own radiator design that has a super efficient core, the same coolant capacity as OEM, but half width and only 1.5" thick. With +700whp at the end of a 1/2 mile event pull I don't think I've ever seen it above 198°. My point being, if you're pressed for space, there are likely other options to suit your needs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
No. What you told me was that you have "thousands of the "X product" sold and running on cars all over the world including cars racing the ring and your the only one who has ever had problems. Our parts are all welded on jigs by professional welders"
You continued to tell me that it was impossible that any of your products had issues.


Here is an example of the welding after we found the part to be leaking water, so we wired it down and then had to reweld.
That part, the lack of fasteners on the water pump outlet (that was also another impossibility according to you...it had nothing to do with fitment)...

What did have to do with fitment with the stock radiator was your radiator shroud. It required cutting its bit and then bending on the brake...I mean table,elongating some holes and then repainting. Then it fit the stocker whilst awaiting the RD... Guess what....it then also fit the RD...

But according to you, these are all built on a jig by professional people used by thousands all around the world and I am the only one with an issue.


What you didn't say was "wow geez, the law of large numbers say that mistakes happen and let us take car of that for you, let's ship you the fasteners you paid for, and let us send you a ups shipping number to send the crappy welded one while we send you a replacement..."

You said it was impossible
 

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Discussion Starter #10
To address the actual pertinent issues!

We are planning on closing a bunch of the front off, so we are trying to have as much water in there with little to no air.

We talked to a bunch of land speed guys. The car can do it with 500 if we can get the aero (but there is only so slippery one can make this thing...I hope for .29-31)

The record subie did 202 mph with 675...he said 650 but I'm leaving dyno to dyno difference room.

On my brick and the extra mph (205 mph) 725-750 will be needed and another 4088 made well over that on the L.

I agree, that larger turbo would be more ideal and a possibility of we have to change gearing.

Mathematically we don't, but the record holder ran 19's with235 wide tires and it was taller than a stock tire set up.

Amazingly there is a lot of wheel spin at speed...
 

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I assumed you were talking about a radiator shroud. My mistake.

No. What you told me was that you have "thousands of the "X product" sold and running on cars all over the world including cars racing the ring Our parts are all welded on jigs by professional welders"
That's all true.

your the only one who has ever had problems.

You continued to tell me that it was impossible that any of your products had issues.
Every... Every manufacturer has had issues at one point or another. We do things in a manner to reduce this probability as much as possible. I'm a big fan of statistics and probabilities, but not a fan of using the word impossible in any sense.

Here is an example of the welding after we found the part to be leaking water,
If I had seen a pic like that we would have replaced it without a doubt.

What you didn't say was "wow geez, the law of large numbers say that mistakes happen and let us take car of that for you, let's ship you the fasteners you paid for, and let us send you a ups shipping number to send the crappy welded one while we send you a replacement..."
'wow geez"? Am I now Urkel from the 80s? If I said all that, which makes logical sense, how would being 'impossible' make any sense?

You're obviously upset, and I can understand that after shelling out money for what should have been a quality product. By the sounds of it, the response was not to you're liking, even though a replacement was offered. I try to explain our process so people understand the effort we put in and we do have a very low return rate, but even at that, mistakes can happen. This is a perfect example, that part looks like poo and I promise you, the hands these parts pass through will see this pic and hear about what their carelessness has caused here. Maybe we should be more like others and cut to the chase; issue a RMA and insect for damage when the part shows up.

Either way, I apologize for any ill feelings you may have. Despite how it may have come off, that is never the intention!
 

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To address the actual pertinent issues!

We are planning on closing a bunch of the front off, so we are trying to have as much water in there with little to no air.

We talked to a bunch of land speed guys. The car can do it with 500 if we can get the aero (but there is only so slippery one can make this thing...I hope for .29-31)

The record subie did 202 mph with 675...he said 650 but I'm leaving dyno to dyno difference room.

On my brick and the extra mph (205 mph) 725-750 will be needed and another 4088 made well over that on the L.

I agree, that larger turbo would be more ideal and a possibility of we have to change gearing.

Mathematically we don't, but the record holder ran 19's with235 wide tires and it was taller than a stock tire set up.

Amazingly there is a lot of wheel spin at speed...
There is a rear radiator with aero like the WRC cars I've seen. Lets you get really creative with the front and helps with the rear aero some, acting as a diffuser.

There is even a stretched GR hatch chassis. I had a pic of it years ago on a cell phone, but a quick search right now turned up nothing. This car had very custom bodywork made for landspeed. There's got to be a pic out there somewhere. By the sounds of it, you're definitely going in the right direction.

You're lucky if you've got some guys sharing info. The ones I come across over the hears seem to hold the cards very close to their chest, especially when shooting for records.

Looking forward to your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Sorry, maybe my post wasn't clear... You never said "awe geez" and the following.

But on to the pertinent.

That stretched GR chassis is a 1/4 mile dragster I believe.

The guys in Texas have run a wrx sedan and now run the legacy (with 900 whp)...they are having some aero problem and haven't reached200 yet...

No idea why not. I'm hoping to get there first
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Time for a posts about the build. I wanted to run an eboost2... And I didn't know where I wanted it mounted and its a rather large guage.
I knew it was going to be a set and forget thing, and the AIM dash would be able to display what I needed, so I had a pod molded into theshifter surround:





 

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Discussion Starter #15
I did some test fitting of the AIM dash. Some people asked why I kept the stock dash. There are a few. One was ease. Two was keeping all the functionality etc. three was in case the ecu needed it like the old subies did. I'm running a stock ecu still.



 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have since yanked the entire interior out.
Here is a pic when we were half way done:



I have the stock seats with13k on the in excellent condition.no smoke, pets or stains. For sale...fronts and rears... Actually the entire interior except door cards, center console and dash.




The car is now at the cage builders who is now off racing... So the at wont be back until the end of August.

We are also replacing the roof with a carbon and kevlar roof from Aeroism research.






This roof does not have the ribs for the factory roll over protection because I am going full cage with X in roof etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm going to back up a little to when I first had the car. Boy what a disappointment in handling. The car felt like it had flat tires in the back, and was just over all a real squishy soft and pathetic ride... Even when driving straight on the freeway.

So I started out by replacing every bushing with superpro... And that helped... And then put those rigid collars that everyone says don't work in, and they helped some more... And then came this:



Started running as much bracing as I could underneath. Some bits helped tremendously, some...well, I haven't had a chance to really stress the body out to test. But anything that ties suspension or sub frame points together was a necessity...

Here are a few once I did the sways and coils...



And another view point:

 

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Discussion Starter #18
I guess I'll handle suspension next. The sways are super pro with kartboy end links. I'm not settled on which diameter to stick with yet and the same goes for spring rates. I can go up another 100 lbs before revalving is my guess. But if I do that I may start from scratch with a product that may sponsor the car...maybe...

Anyways. The car is running RCE T2 clubsports which are great bang for the buck street and track pieces. Just enough adjustability to take advantage of sticky slicks and the back to street tires.

As for brakes, I hated the pinewood block feeling stock pads so I switched to ferodo ds2500 and giro disc 2 piece front and rear. These area huge weight savings and that is extremely noticeable:





These were awesome and I think I put 80 miles of that on them before the motor was torn out.

I also did a carbon drive shaft after the brakes. I thought the rotors were my favorite mod, nope...that drive shaft.amazing change in the car with absolutely no downsides (so far lol)

And then the plans for the car started getting silly and this is when I decided I wanted to go 200+ mph....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I started talking to people who were way smarter than I am about how to go from zero to 200+mph in one mile...and then stop safely in a short distance.

Everywhere I went and everyone I talked to said get a street/track pad, meaning something designed to work cold yet not stop working when hot...get a lot of surface area on your pad... And get something with rotors that can handle it...the buy a set of spare rotors because that's what die....oh and parachutes... I'll need two because the car is a fat pig and I want to go over200!

So first came these for up front:




And the these out back:




I have yet to experience them...a Limey has and he says they are awesome...


And check this out....they fit under stock wheels!!

 
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