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I'm with you on springs over bars.

Thanks for the input on your experience and plans. Any chance you have any vids?? I'd like to compare the pitch and roll vs my car.

Had to dig a bit to find a vid with a decent example of the lift-off oversteer, but at 27s there is a left turn heading into a couple offsets.

Earlier in the day I was steering around the cone, but I learned with a little lift I could get the car to rotate and stay much tighter. I'm sure there will be things I have to change about how I approach a course, but I do like this driving style.

Please don't protest the illegal interior mod. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I can't view or add videos at work, so I'll do that later.


Also, I updated my previous build post with more information.
 

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springs over bars in theory sounds better but I always had good results running a 24mm rear sway on full stiff. in my head it doesn't sound like it should work but on the course it worked (GR)
 

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As mentioned above, I have them on my car. The advertised benefit is lighter weight, so I'm failing to see how they last longer under extreme braking (track use). :confused:

Despite writing "centers", I was thinking of/referring to replacing outer rings. While obviously cheaper than buying complete rotors, the outer rings are hardly the inexpensive part. MSRP for whole rotors: $1450; replacement outer rings: $800.

If my car were seeing occasional track use, I'd pick up some Centric Premiums and not feel *as* bad about eating rotors with track pads.
I'll leave this thread here for you to read. It shows proof of the durability with Girodiscs. Some reporting they've gone 60 track days on a single set. Why buy a rotor that expensive if it isn't going to be beneficial in all areas. To think it is only for less rotational mass is absurd. A regular slotted rotor will last longer than a centric blank due to better heat dissipation. So why wouldn't the Girodisc do the same?

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/997-gt2-gt3-forum/705369-whats-the-verdict-on-girodiscs.html

One more thing. Ryan Gates' Evo X is still on its first set of Girodisc outer rings front and rear.
 

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The benefits of the girodisc's are they last longer under track conditions. I'm not going to be tracking the car every month. The rotor hats are the expensive part and you can buy the outer rings separate at a much cheaper rate.

I'm not competing nationally. If I were I would abide more closely to the rules. My local region doesn't really care.
I've run the Girodisc 2pc fronts on CarboTech XP10s for 6 Auto-X's and 3 track days. They have shown little sign of wear. Couple that with the weight savings...I think they are a great investment.

Also...for reference...I paid $650 for my fronts brand new at my door step.
 

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I figured you'd chime in.

Where'd you get your rotors?
 

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I figured you'd chime in.

Where'd you get your rotors?
:lol::lol: I've had great success with them and have no problem letting the community know that. You would think I work for Girodisc and Carbotech...haha.

I believe I got them from THMotrosports. They were great to work with and I bought the 2pc Fronts and 1pc rears from them at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Any chance you have any vids?? I'd like to compare the pitch and roll vs my car.
The quality for Day 1 sucks for some unknown reason, but this is a long, transition-heavy course. Day 2 was pretty much the same course, in reverse. Video embed is dominating me, so here's a link:

"2012 NCAC 37 STU JOHN WOLF - YouTube"

Earlier in the day I was steering around the cone, but I learned with a little lift I could get the car to rotate and stay much tighter. I'm sure there will be things I have to change about how I approach a course, but I do like this driving style.
There is obviously more body roll visible, but your car appears to turn in well. I'd say some of the good handling could be attributed to the additional front camber. You appear to wheel that thing pretty well. :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'll leave this thread here for you to read. It shows proof of the durability with Girodiscs. Some reporting they've gone 60 track days on a single set. A regular slotted rotor will last longer than a centric blank due to better heat dissipation. So why wouldn't the Girodisc do the same?
http://
Sweet. My car will likely never see track duty, but it's nice to know the rotors are up to extended use.

I'm aware of the heat dissipation characteristic, but figured it to be negligable in the Girodiscs over say, a set of Power Slots. Apparently, that isn't the case.


Why buy a rotor that expensive if it isn't going to be beneficial in all areas. To think it is only for less rotational mass is absurd.
Surely you've heard the expression "because racecar", no? :) 22 pounds of unsprung, rotational mass in competitive autocross, especially when dealing with understeering AWD pigs, is nothing to shrug off. When you're dealing with stock power, such weight reduction is nice.

Anyways, back to STU-specific discussion.
 

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Thanks for the vid, your car is definitely much flatter in the transitions and doesn't unsettle as much when transitioning on and off throttle. I swear, sometimes when I hit it hard coming out of a sweeper it feels like the front of the car is floating. Stiffer rears will hopefully get me on throttle sooner and with more predictability.

Here's a pic showing the roll. I even have about 200lbs of ballast in the passenger seat. :D
 

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Lifting the rear inside seems to be rather easy. I've done a burnout mid turn more than once and feel my self sitting not going anywhere every now and then loosing time. This is on RCE blacks (which iirc are 300lbs) with 24f(hard)/22r(medium).

I've had camber bolts put in a couple months back and managed -2.5 camber up front. I've noticed on the street the car is much more likely to have the rear stepout now, which I assume is resulting from the extra grip up front. I haven't tried this out yet at autox but I'm going to try both sways to full soft for next season and see how that works, lifting that wheel is lost time.

Im in BSP but mainly because I don't care enough to detune the car for autox and this is on 275 star specs.
 

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Thanks for the vid, your car is definitely much flatter in the transitions and doesn't unsettle as much when transitioning on and off throttle. I swear, sometimes when I hit it hard coming out of a sweeper it feels like the front of the car is floating. Stiffer rears will hopefully get me on throttle sooner and with more predictability.

Here's a pic showing the roll. I even have about 200lbs of ballast in the passenger seat. :D
Image Link

200lbs...is that guy missing his legs??!! That looks to be a 250-275lb'er you have there.
 

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That's why I prefer to rely on spring, and not bar.

FYI, the STI was moved to ASP for 2012. BSP is now primarily E36 M3s, S2000s, and 350Zs.
Second that. I ran ASP this season. Only reason I wasn't STU was that my tune didn't follow stock boost curves. I didn't want to pay the extra money to have my tuner make me a STU tune.
 

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ASP is a dead class this year with the new PAX:

ASP: 0.866
SM: 0.867

It's just 0.06s on a 60s course, which would be less than the difference in just removing the back seats for SM. For PAX I don't see ASP being competitive at all. I doubt my club will have more than 10 people total show up and register ASP this year.

On a brighter note I placed my order for 550f/600r T2s!! I worked with Dan at RCE, super cool guy and really flexible. He told me the KW Clubsport bodies they use are going up in price after January 1st. So I ordered the T2s now and got the lower price, but they will assemble them for me in February when they get in a new batch of RCE front and rear plates. Winning!!
 

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Second that. I ran ASP this season. Only reason I wasn't STU was that my tune didn't follow stock boost curves. I didn't want to pay the extra money to have my tuner make me a STU tune.
You should do it, STU is like the new ASP/BSP :tup:

edit; not really but a lot of people are switching to it
 

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Just found this thread... good to see some other GR preps. I'm planning to setup/run my '11 next year. Good info posted in this thread so far.

On a brighter note I placed my order for 550f/600r T2s!! I worked with Dan at RCE, super cool guy and really flexible. He told me the KW Clubsport bodies they use are going up in price after January 1st. So I ordered the T2s now and got the lower price, but they will assemble them for me in February when they get in a new batch of RCE front and rear plates. Winning!!
Congrats... I'm ending up building some custom Koni DA's over the winter, largely due to the fact I'm not sure where I'll end up with springs (starting with a 700/900 setup) and will be playing with valving a bit.
 
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