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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright, having searched for GR-specific STU autocross info, I found little. Who is running, where, and what kind of setups? Given the heated competition against EVOs (and an E36 M3 in 2012! :p) on the national level, we could provide one another with crucial info.

Thread basics:

-coilovers/struts and springs (with spring rates)
-sway bars (with diameters)
-bushings
-wheels (with dimensions) / tires (with dimensions)
-power mods
-brake mods
-miscellaneous mods (mounts, seats, other weight reduction, etc.)

If available, provide other relevant details concerning your setup, including damper settings, tire pressures, and alignment numbers.

See post #16 for my setup: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/3737885-post16.html

For those looking for additional information, the 2013 SCCA Solo rules can be found here:
The Sports Car Club of America - Solo

Street Touring (including STU) has its own section, so check that out before posting any specific questions. More than likely, the answer is in there.
 

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When I was doing STU autocross in North Carolina in the Eastern region I was doing pretty well (took 1st in class 3 races in a row). The local STU champ who was running an SRT-4 actually switched to an STI mid-year I believe. Now there's a guy running STU and getting FTD's in his 07 STI. Much of it comes down to the driver, but you can get pretty serious times with a GR. Are you planning on racing Nationals in the STI?

If so, James Wilson (you might remember him from forum wars) has an autocross prepped GR STi I believe, and he was an SCCA national champ in his '11 WRX if I'm looking at the books correctly.

So yea, definitely a good base to race from.
 

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I dont have an Sti but an 11 WRX and its mildly prepped for STU. It did win the Nashville road tour last year.

My car has:

GTWorx Bilstein RCE yellows (330/330)
Eibach 25mm Front / 22mm Rear
Whiteline diff lock down
17x9" rota DPT with 245/45 dunlop starspecs
3" catback

This is not my dedicated autox car so the prep is very street friendly. I usually run in STR / EP in Honda's so the subaru is a little different for me.

Last year i ran the car 4 times after nationals. My impression is that the set-up has great balance buts needs to be stiffer to be national level competitive. Maybe a 25mm rear bar and 500f/600r springs. Just a guess. Obviously better shocks. Put a lot of front camber in and run a small amount in rear (help rotation)

One of the biggest things that I felt the car was missing was a LSD in back (no concern on an STi. Also a downpipe and STU legal tune.

If you looking for national level I would say seats and any other legal weight reduction would be a must as well. But for just locals a good driver would do well with a set-up like mine. Especially good and fun on asphalt.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When I was doing STU autocross in North Carolina in the Eastern region I was doing pretty well (took 1st in class 3 races in a row). The local STU champ who was running an SRT-4 actually switched to an STI mid-year I believe. Now there's a guy running STU and getting FTD's in his 07 STI. Much of it comes down to the driver, but you can get pretty serious times with a GR. Are you planning on racing Nationals in the STI?

If so, James Wilson (you might remember him from forum wars) has an autocross prepped GR STi I believe, and he was an SCCA national champ in his '11 WRX if I'm looking at the books correctly.
Were you running with NCR SCCA? There are a few guys throughout the Carolinas who seem fairly serious about STU, so the competition is encouraging. Nothing would be worse to me than to run by myself in class.

Ultimately, I would love to hit a couple National Tour and ProSolo dates per year, as well as making the trip to Lincoln for nationals annually. In the immediate future, however, I'm limited to events in NC and SC, with the occasional venture into VA and GA. It's great having three SCCA regions and two independent clubs within a three hour drive.

From what I've seen on Nasioc, James Wilson appears to be running a STX '08 WRX until the BRZ he's co-driving is delivered.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My impression is that the set-up has great balance buts needs to be stiffer to be national level competitive. Maybe a 25mm rear bar and 500f/600r springs. Just a guess. Obviously better shocks. Put a lot of front camber in and run a small amount in rear (help rotation)

If you looking for national level I would say seats and any other legal weight reduction would be a must as well.
I'm looking at spring rates very similar, but was hoping to get away with as little sway bar as possible. I'm waiting on damper delivery to have coilovers assembled, but I hope to have detailed info concerning my approach in May.

I was thinking a big rear bar would lift too much, and I was having a bit of that on stock suspension already.

For weight reduction, I just bought a battery, and I'm looking at doing Girodiscs. Beyond that, seats are probably next. I already have a muffler delete turndown, as well.
 

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Sadness, no traction in this thread?? I was hoping for some easy answers.

I'll contribute, last season looked like this:
Suspension:
GTWorx Plates
RCE T2 Coilovers 550f/600r
Alignment -2.5*f with 0 zero toe all around, no rear camber adjustments
Power:
Invidia DP
DP Turndown
AEM intake
Cobb AP Tuned by TorquedPerformance.com
Grip:
Kosei K1 TS 17x9
245/40/17 Hankook RS-3
Misc:
Cipher Auto front seats (27lbs with brackets)
Ballistic Performance LiPo Battery
ATE Super Blue brake fluid
Kartboy STS with front and rear bushings
Stickers under the hood good for at least +5hp each

Was my first full season, took 2nd overall in STU with my local SCCA and 3rd in a BMW club within their street tire class. For 2013 I plan on staying in STU and trying to take down the evo that won last year.
 

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Here's my current setup. I wasn't able to use it for more than a few events but it performed much better than my stock did.


Suspension:
RCE Tarmac T2's 500/500
GTworx camber plates
RCE sways
Whiteline bushings everywhere.
Power:
Cobb AP
SPT exhaust
Grip:
Stock wheels
245/40/18 Dunlop Z1 Starspec

For next season I plan on adding a TurboXS 4" DP, new intake, possibly EL headers and a few other bits to get some more power/torque. Plus I'd like to get some 05-07 OEM BBS wheels to mount RS-3's to and I'll be addressing braking. I'm thinking of girodiscs (I plan to get on road courses more) and ferodo DS2500's with goodridge stainless lines, motul RBF600 brake fluid, and a grimmspeed master cylinder brace.
 
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With an OTS AP tune, we run ASP. A guy here has a tune from Agile Automotive that uses stock boost settings but tunes in boost creep to get around the rule of not changing boost settings. He has 300+ HP with stock boost settings!
 

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I just run locally so I use the OTS stage II tune from Cobb. I'm down about 75hp and over 100tq to the evo that beat me last year so he doesn't care. He's a great driver and his car is close to spec, so even if I take a couple wins from him next season it shouldn't matter. The tune is more for fun and engine health than actually trying to win.

I could run ASP but I think there were a total of 10 people all of last season in ASP, which would be completely boring. STU has way more people and is super fun.

Plus Chris Dorsey (multiple nats winner in EP) is in my region and kills the PAX every time. 2nd place is usually in the 980's and I'm in the 920s.
 

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@GA Scooby

GRM did a review on the RS-3 and found that is likes a bit of a stretch to really perform well. The width on a 245 is right at 8.5", so if you go with a set of GD BBS you'll actually be pinching them a bit.

I was torn between the 17x10 +38 RPF1 and the 17x9 +45 Kosei. In the end I went with the Kosei because it was much cheaper and almost 1lb lighter.
 

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so you took 2nd in STU but you basically cheated by running higher boost than what you're allowed? I wouldn't call that fair, even if 1st place is way faster. If you're not running for competitive time then just run ASP until you get a stock boost target tune. Is your invidia DP catted?
 

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@GA Scooby

GRM did a review on the RS-3 and found that is likes a bit of a stretch to really perform well. The width on a 245 is right at 8.5", so if you go with a set of GD BBS you'll actually be pinching them a bit.

I was torn between the 17x10 +38 RPF1 and the 17x9 +45 Kosei. In the end I went with the Kosei because it was much cheaper and almost 1lb lighter.
That's interesting to know! Thanks for the info.
 

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@yman

There isn't a single STi in my region that isn't Stage II, hell some guys are running on e85 conversions. Nobody cares cause it's all about having fun and compared to the guys that go to nats we're slow.

STU is where we all run because we're not on race rubber. Get a Braille and lighten up. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sadness, no traction in this thread??
I was disappointed in the lack of interest, too.

I'm thinking of girodiscs (I plan to get on road courses more) and ferodo DS2500's with goodridge stainless lines, motul RBF600 brake fluid, and a grimmspeed master cylinder brace.
I wouldn't want to replace Girodisc centers anymore than necessary ($$$), so they might be a poor choice for track use. Also, master cylinder braces are not STU legal.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
As of 03/2014, mods are:

Suspension/steering
HVT internal DA coilovers (728f/896r)
Vorshlag camber plates
RCE tubular adjustable front sway bar
Whiteline steering rack bushings
Whiteline rear trailing arm bushings
Whiteline rear subframe inserts

Wheels/tires
Dry
18x9.5 TR Motorsports MT1
245/40-18 Dunlop ZII

Rain
18x8.5 OEM BBS
245/40-18 Continental DW

Brakes
Girodisc 2-piece rotors
Ferodo DS2500 pads

Drivetrain
Cobb short shifter
Cobb shifter bushings
Torque Solutions engine mounts
Kartboy pitch stop
Group N trans mount
Whiteline rear diff inserts

Power
Cobb Accessport w/ 100 octane STU tune (286whp/353wtq on Mustang dyno)
AEM panel air filter
Perrin crank pulley
Perrin EL header
Perrin "big tube" up-pipe
Cobb catted downpipe
custom v-band 3" 16ga stainless catback w/ Magnaflow race muffler

Weight reduction
Sparco Evo driver seat (mounted directly to Planted base)
Kirkey aluminum passenger seat (custom mounted to steel base)
Ballistic Evo 12-cell battery

Additional specs
-3.6* f, -2.0* r camber
0 toe square


The car weighs 3065# with the fuel light on.

Next up for weight loss:

a turndown to replace the axle-back section of the exhaust
AP Racing front calipers
lighten the driver seat mounting arrangement (at 33# now, 8# over minimum)
exotic wheels (CE28Ns or something comparably expensive; at 19# each now)

The TR Motorsport wheels are the easy button for GR/GV STU cars, since they do not require spacers. Although clearance is tight with AST 4100 front spring perches, they fit fine. Plus, they're relatively cheap and look decent.
 

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I wouldn't want to replace Girodisc centers anymore than necessary ($$$), so they might be a poor choice for track use. Also, master cylinder braces are not STU legal.
The benefits of the girodisc's are they last longer under track conditions. I'm not going to be tracking the car every month. The rotor hats are the expensive part and you can buy the outer rings separate at a much cheaper rate.

I'm not competing nationally. If I were I would abide more closely to the rules. My local region doesn't really care.
 

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I'm glad to see someone running softer fronts, how do you like it?? The 2011 come with 10% softer fronts which I've come to enjoy. The car has some nice predictable lift-off oversteer coming into sweepers that helps with rotation.

I'm going to order some T2s and was planning on 550f/600r. There's not a lot of info on GR rates for AutoX. Most of the fast GD guys are running something like 600f/500r. But I don't like following them blindly, since a GR hatch is very different from a GD sedan.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The benefits of the girodisc's are they last longer under track conditions. I'm not going to be tracking the car every month. The rotor hats are the expensive part and you can buy the outer rings separate at a much cheaper rate.
As mentioned above, I have them on my car. The advertised benefit is lighter weight, so I'm failing to see how they last longer under extreme braking (track use). :confused:

Despite writing "centers", I was thinking of/referring to replacing outer rings. While obviously cheaper than buying complete rotors, the outer rings are hardly the inexpensive part. MSRP for whole rotors: $1450; replacement outer rings: $800.

If my car were seeing occasional track use, I'd pick up some Centric Premiums and not feel *as* bad about eating rotors with track pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm glad to see someone running softer fronts, how do you like it?? The 2011 come with 10% softer fronts which I've come to enjoy. The car has some nice predictable lift-off oversteer coming into sweepers that helps with rotation.

I'm going to order some T2s and was planning on 550f/600r. There's not a lot of info on GR rates for AutoX. Most of the fast GD guys are running something like 600f/500r. But I don't like following them blindly, since a GR hatch is very different from a GD sedan.
I love my coilovers. As I said above, I want more spring rate, but for a first try it's pretty damn good.

My plan has always been to rely on spring and not bar, so I'll end up increasing rates until I'm truly happy. My car is getting close to becoming a trailer queen anyway, so I won't have to compromise anymore. As a guess for the future, I'll try something like 600-650f/700-750r. At that time, I may or may not change dampers to a double adjustable.

If your car is a DD, and will stay that way, 550/600 is probably the absolute highest you'd want to go (provided your seat is comfy). At 500/560, the awesome AST dampers are the only thing saving my back, and NC has pretty decent road quality. With a fixed-back seat, spring rate selection requires a whole new level of consideration. ;)
 
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