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Update

Here is how the lines are run, and shows how the regulator is bolted on to the metal bracket. Please make sure you remove the plastic bracket (which is clipped onto the metal bracket) which originally held the feed / return / and regulator assembly.

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Just received my kit today. I have the non-dampened version. Although the kit comes with an email with install directions, the images in the email are difficult to reference b/c they are taken so close up. I'm not positive which way the lines go and which goes on top.

The kit has two lines. One with a dampener and bracket and one that's just a plain line. Is it correct to say that the plain line goes on top of the dampened line? I see 3 barbs on the firewall and fuel rail. Looks like this kit installs on the top and bottom barbs, leaving the middle line alone.

?
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Trace the existing lines. On the firewall side, there's a top line, a middle line and the bottom line. Leave the middle one alone (which I believe is blue and is for the evap canister). Top and bottom needs to be disconnected.

On the manifold side, there's a top and bottom port.

Basically top manifold port needs to be connected to top firewall port ( aka feed line or the plain line)

Bottom manifold port needs to be connected to bottom firewall port ( return line that has the fuel pressure regulator, not damper ).

What kit you get? Take pics of the regulator.
 

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Thanks for the detailed explanation. That makes perfect sense. I purchased the IAP kit. Apologies for calling the regulator a damper. My only other question is how to know which way the line with the regulator goes. The instructions says to use the longer side towards the firewall, but both ends look similar. IAP is calling this line with the regulator the "return" line.

I'll get a pic of what I have. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #65
The hose that's attached to the BODY (left side) of the of fuel regulator is hooked up to the return line on the manifold (bottom port). The one on the right side is hooked up to the firewall return port (bottom port on the firewall, below the blue line).

You also need to attach the pressure source to the nipple of the pressure regulator (top).

 

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Using the pics provided at the beginning of this thread, I was able to perform this install. Needed the fuel stumble mod per Eric @ TP's request. No leaks or complaints and it looks just like a quality OEM piece. Thanks Funks.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Don't really like the way IA did theirs - it doesn't bolt on to the OEM bracket and uses a rubber/metal clamp to secure the FPR assembly to another hose.

Doesn't come with a new silicone hose for the pressure source, nor corbin clamps to keep the pressure source hose secure. I guess a longer silicone hose ain't needed as the regulator is closer to the manifold ports on their setup (so the OEM pressure source hose reaches).

Works the same way though.


Using the pics provided at the beginning of this thread, I was able to perform this install. Needed the fuel stumble mod per Eric @ TP's request. No leaks or complaints and it looks just like a quality OEM piece. Thanks Funks.
Eric is the man, I love the way my car is working..
 

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I did injectors, tgv deletes, phenolic spacers and this FPR mod this weekend, I'll post some pics tomorrow if I have time. The install is a lot easier than the pics make it out to be. Just poke around for a few minutes and you'll see where everything goes. Two things, first the fuel lines are pieces of crap to pull out, I bought a tool to take them off, didn't work, I did the two zip tie trick, didn't work, finally I ground down two large cotter pins flat and it worked well. With that said you do not have to remove the lines coming out of the firewall. Just take them off at the FPR and buffer and plug the new FPR and buffer in the hoses, clamp them down and you're done (unless you're not using a buffer than God bless you). Also,you can use the flange bolt , spacer and nutt, as per the shopping list on the first page, just bend the bracket to line it up. Like I said, I'll post pic tomorrow.
 

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I'm another sti owner ran into the stumble issue after i installed cobb OTS map. just paypaled funks for his last stumble mod fix. but from what everyone is saying, itll fix the problem with a custom tune. probably going with eric from torqued performance. Might as well get an intake along with my downpipe to make it worthwhile.

I gotten a custome tune from eric before for my wrx. Does anyone know what he baseline power for stage 2 with a downpipe and intake?
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
Don't even think the intake is worth it - I say you redirect that $$$ to an equal length header instead + up-pipe :)

Catted Downpipe + Up Pipe + Equal Length Header (stock catback, stock intake), keep the boost conservative (we are in California after all) and you get the following (stock intake). Tuned by Eric - only difference between the two is I went Equal (+ Up Pipe) with the blue line. Injectors per logging are below 90% IDC - so it's not maxed out.

I have the Grimmspeed Limited / Catted Downpipe (a bit pricey), Grimmspeed Up-Pipe, HKS Equal Length Header, get it Cerakoted locally and it's worth the price of admission.

Note: it's Virtual Dyno, not DynoJet but same tuner, same temp, same road, same driver.

 

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Don't even think the intake is worth it - I say you redirect that $$$ to an equal length header instead + up-pipe :)

Catted Downpipe + Up Pipe + Equal Length Header (stock catback, stock intake), keep the boost conservative (we are in California after all) and you get the following (stock intake). Tuned by Eric - only difference between the two is I went Equal (+ Up Pipe) with the blue line. Injectors per logging are below 90% IDC - so it's not maxed out.

I have the Grimmspeed Limited / Catted Downpipe (a bit pricey), Grimmspeed Up-Pipe, HKS Equal Length Header, get it Cerakoted locally and it's worth the price of admission.

Note: it's Virtual Dyno, not DynoJet but same tuner, same temp, same road, same driver.

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I'm still torn between going equal length or getting aftermarket unequal length header...
The benefits cylinder 2 and 4 are there and the torque but i dont know if I can give up the rumble... do you know if you get any gains from an aftermarket unequal length header?
 

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I own a 05 sti with this problem car leans out around 2500 to 3500. i have done an agency power top feed conversion with fuel rails kit, aeromotive FPR, ID2000's TGV deletes spacers. The stock fuel dampers r still on there as well should i remove them? I have been dealing with this problem for about a year now. Any help would be appreciated thanks
 

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I own a 05 sti with this problem car leans out around 2500 to 3500. i have done an agency power top feed conversion with fuel rails kit, aeromotive FPR, ID2000's TGV deletes spacers. The stock fuel dampers r still on there as well should i remove them? I have been dealing with this problem for about a year now. Any help would be appreciated thanks
Grab a piece of fuel hose at the auto parts store, bypass it and see if it helps. You might need the Dorman connectors as per the 1st post.
 

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I would expect that the aeromotive fpr would do the job and so any standard dampeners could be removed. But I will will wait until some experienced users chime in.
 
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