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Discussion Starter #1
i hope this is the right forum. i just got a EGT,Boost, and Oil Pressure gauges today *woo hoo*, now i need to know how to install them, does anyone know what i need to do, so i can get these gauges up and going? any good websights? any info would be greatley appreciated.
 

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Wellll, I'm no mechanis, but I just purchased a set from WRXTRA.com. When you go to the site, they have a bunch of stuff in Adobe Acrobat for do-it-your-selfers. Step by Step. Me, I'm blowing the money for a pro to install. Good Luck!
 

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Here's another question..If I were to simply replace the factory boost gauge with a Defi BF gauge or any other boost gauge for that matter, will the same sensor and wiring work for the new gauge, or does the whole setup need to be replaced?

Thanks.
 

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Let me clarify that I realize that in the case of the Defi gauge the sensor leads to the control unit and not the gauge itself, but aside from that do I need to install the new sensor and lines leading from that sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
when wiring up the illumination to the gauges what wires to i need to tap into, regarding the clock wires?? what is ground, illumination, and the hot wire? there are 4 wires from that clock and i dunno what is what.
 

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You really should get a multimeter and measure each wire before you tap into anything just to be sure. However, I'm sure someone on here can tell you which is what and what is which.
 

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Since I got the idea from these forums I figured I'd share some pictures and a little how-to on doing a clean wiring install for GReddy 52mm gauges in the OEM gauge pack housing and using the clock harness. (Well cleaner than using vampire taps and splicing into wires and such.) The actual idea for this comes from Force[FED] in this post. So credit for the idea goes to him. I'm just taking credit for taking pictures of it and expanding on his idea.

I've installed 2 gauges and a turbo timer on my old DSM prior to this and that's the extent of my automotive wiring experience so that should help validate my statement when I say this was extremely easy to do.

There really isn't a whole lot in doing this but I'll put it in step-by-step format as I know that tends to help a lot of people versus reading a long paragraph.

1) strip about 1/4 to 1/3 an inch of wire sheath off the end of each wire on each gauge

2) match the wires up by color (black, red, orange, and white) and twist the wires of all 3 gauges together, the tighter the better so they won't unwind on you

3) (optional step) I used a soldering iron and soldered each set of twisted wires


As you can see my soldering skills are not the best, this was my first time ever soldering so you don't need to be a pro to get the job done. Just get some spare 18awg wire and practice a few times.

4) using a U-shaped spade connector, slide each set of twisted wires into the connector and crimp the connector to keep the wires in the connector (optional again - I soldered the top of the wire to the connector itself to ensure that it can't be pulled loose)

I can't tell you exactly what size of spade connector to use, I just grabbed one and plugged it into the clock harness (after the battery was disconnected of course) and it fit snug so that's the only fitment suggestion I can offer.

5) trim off one side of the "U" so that only one prong is left

6) wrap each connector in electrical tape - I wrapped mine a lot and in the picture below it may seem overkill but I felt it necessary because you won't be able to get each connector in the harness all the way and was nervous about them possibly making contact due to vibration - sort of a "better safe than sorry" mentality on my part


Like I said... overkill on the electrical tape

7) get the gauges where you want them to be and then plug actual harness plug into the back of each gauge

8) plug each connector into the actual clock harness as snug as possible - the plug on the actual clock housing that you remove from the dash is labelled with which wire is for what, using that label I matched up the connectors that I made with each slot in the clock harness
BAT = Red wires (constant power)
ACC = Orange wires (switched power)
LIG = White wires (illumination)
GND = Black wires (ground)

I apologize I can't tell you which wires they match up to on the clock harness, I didn't think to look.



and voila.... its quick and easy and you can remove your gauges from your car in a couple of minutes and reinstall just as easily

Sorry the pictures are crappy and there aren't more, the batteries were low so I tried to avoid using the camera.

Its nothing new or special but this is my finished result.



Sorry if you could care less about how I installed my gauges but when I went to install them I saw so many posts in my searches from people just asking how to do it that I figured this could at least help out some people.

E-mail or PM me if you have any questions


denial
do you happen to have a picture of the modified spade connectors plugged into the clock harness?
 

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sorry about the long post but i found it somwhere and i saved it on my puter! hope that helps ya out! =)
 

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now i need to know where to wire my autometer guages on the a-pillar whats a good switched 12vpower, 12v dash illumination...
 

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now i need to know where to wire my autometer guages on the a-pillar whats a good switched 12vpower, 12v dash illumination...
 
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