Fun world of Camber / Control Arms

3180 Views 20 Replies 6 Participants Last post by JAMM0N, Oct 2, 2013

Rferone

Discussion Starter · Sep 26, 2013 (Edited)

Looking to get some feedback from the group regarding bringing in some negative camber into my life.

2013 Subaru STI Hatch

From what I have read I am going to need to get new control arms front and rear to do this, or potentially just run the camber bolts for front (which max out at -2)

My goal is to do a roll and pull of the fenders front and rear, and run about -1.5 to -2 to avoid to much poke. I do not plan on slamming the car to the ground just lowered a tiny bit on Fortune Auto 500 Series Coilovers with Bearing top hats.

A lot of the threads seem to be old and outdated, that I have read (07/28/2012 was the newest I could find during my search)

Any feedback on the different brands is greatly appreciated. Also, please leave out the comments of: "Buy wheels that fit" "you are ruining the driveability of the car" "camber = uneven tire"

Thank you,

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

Rferone

Discussion Starter · #2 · Sep 26, 2013

To share my ideas on how I am looking to have my car sit this is a great example.

His car based on the thread sits at -2 Front -2 Rears with Agency Power Double Control Arms
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/3336259-post.html

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V10Climber

· #3 · Sep 26, 2013

Camber plates in the front and replacement lower control arms in the rear.

Also, nothing in the car has changed suspension-wise since 2011 and even then there was just a slightly revised front control arm so any threads discussing any of the GR cars will be applicable to the rear suspension. There are a ton of threads discussing various camber plates and rear control arms.

Rferone

Discussion Starter · #4 · Sep 26, 2013

V10Climber said:
Camber plates in the front and replacement lower control arms in the rear.

Also, nothing in the car has changed suspension-wise since 2011 and even then there was just a slightly revised front control arm so any threads discussing any of the GR cars will be applicable to the rear suspension. There are a ton of threads discussing various camber plates and rear control arms.

Awesome good to know wasn't to sure if they had changes on the rear suspension and components on the newer years as sometimes when you go to sites it says 13-14 STI.

I will do some digging into the different brands.

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

GA Scooby

· #5 · Sep 26, 2013

That car in that picture is not running -2* camber front and rear. Maybe it's the picture but that looks to be running 3*+

Rferone

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 26, 2013

GA Scooby said:
That car in that picture is not running -2* camber front and rear. Maybe it's the picture but that looks to be running 3*+

Based on the thread that he posted up he is sitting at -2* I did include the link within the post. I think it may be the picture due to the angle, the width of the wheels also contribute to the reduction he has.

Based on his sizing and the wheels I am looking at they are nearly identical in all aspects from tire sizing to offset, but I am down at 18x10+ 18 on the wheels I am looking at, while he was 18x10.5" + 32 we he has in width I make up in offset sizing....

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

GA Scooby

· #7 · Sep 26, 2013

Rferone said:
Based on the thread that he posted up he is sitting at -2* I did include the link within the post. I think it may be the picture due to the angle, the width of the wheels also contribute to the reduction he has.

Based on his sizing and the wheels I am looking at they are nearly identical in all aspects from tire sizing to offset, but I am down at 18x10+ 18 on the wheels I am looking at, while he was 18x10.5" + 32 we he has in width I make up in offset sizing....

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

You need to do a lot more research. You will be way past -2* with +18 offset.

Subie_Pb

· #8 · Sep 26, 2013

I only have eibach camber bolts in the front. My car is sitting a -2.5* camber on both sides at the front. So you can get past 2 degrees with just camber bolts. I have no adjustment in the rear with my currently stock components.

Make sure you read the camber bolt FAQ on this site or nasioc before you install them.

Rferone

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 26, 2013

Subie_Pb said:
I only have eibach camber bolts in the front. My car is sitting a -2.5* camber on both sides at the front. So you can get past 2 degrees with just camber bolts. I have no adjustment in the rear with my currently stock components.

Make sure you read the camber bolt FAQ on this site or nasioc before you install them.

Awesome I am very familiar with camber bolts and thats what I planned on doing up front.

For the rear is where I am realizing that it looks like need to get control arms to help out.....

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

Rferone

Discussion Starter · #10 · Sep 26, 2013

GA Scooby said:
You need to do a lot more research. You will be way past -2* with +18 offset.

GA Scooby I beg to differ on your statement..... please advise why you think that?

According to 1010tire image I attached

My wheels at 18x10 +18 would be sitting 8mm further out of the car vs his 18x10.5" +32 setup he is running also a 245/40, and the setup I am looking at is a 235/40 so less sidewall height as well....

8mm = roughly .34" further out of the fender then that, and with a good roll and pull on the fenders at all 4 I would think I can successfully fit them at -2.... most times when you roll a fender you push it out .25" due to the metal flexing without even trying so a little extra effort and massaging onto the fenders should get them out a bit more.

I am open to hear your thoughts on my guess work that I am doing here... I really do appreciate the feedback as well as I have not pulled the trigger yet on these wheels, and this is why I am making sure to do as much research as I can

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

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Rferone

Discussion Starter · #11 · Sep 26, 2013

Was just talking with someone else who is fitted on 18x10.5 +23 all around but they are slammed to the ground and he is -3 but he is way lower then I want to go and only lightly rolled fenders didn't do a pull

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GA Scooby

· #12 · Sep 27, 2013

Rferone said:
GA Scooby I beg to differ on your statement..... please advise why you think that?

According to 1010tire image I attached

My wheels at 18x10 +18 would be sitting 8mm further out of the car vs his 18x10.5" +32 setup he is running also a 245/40, and the setup I am looking at is a 235/40 so less sidewall height as well....

8mm = roughly .34" further out of the fender then that, and with a good roll and pull on the fenders at all 4 I would think I can successfully fit them at -2.... most times when you roll a fender you push it out .25" due to the metal flexing without even trying so a little extra effort and massaging onto the fenders should get them out a bit more.

I am open to hear your thoughts on my guess work that I am doing here... I really do appreciate the feedback as well as I have not pulled the trigger yet on these wheels, and this is why I am making sure to do as much research as I can

Image Link

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

If you want the wheels to poke out, then yes you will can get away with less than -3* but if you want the wheels to fit underneath the fender wells then you will need to have a roll and a major pull in the rear and more than -3* front and rear. Even closer to -4* I would say. Good luck trying to do fit it under the wells, if that's what you are trying to do, on less though. Even though experience from Th3_Clap and advice has told you it won't work you still want to go through with it?

Why not just go for a 18x9.5 +22?

Oh and my source? The wheel and tire fitment thread. Experience from others is far greater than a calculator. Rallysport Direct's 2011 STi had 18x9.5 +22 on all four corners and they needed a roll and a pull in the rear, with -4* camber at all four corners to make them fit flush.

Rferone

Discussion Starter · #13 · Sep 27, 2013

GA Scooby said:
If you want the wheels to poke out, then yes you will can get away with less than -3* but if you want the wheels to fit underneath the fender wells then you will need to have a roll and a major pull in the rear and more than -3* front and rear. Even closer to -4* I would say. Good luck trying to do fit it under the wells, if that's what you are trying to do, on less though. Even though experience from Th3_Clap and advice has told you it won't work you still want to go through with it?

Why not just go for a 18x9.5 +22?

Oh and my source? The wheel and tire fitment thread. Experience from others is far greater than a calculator. Rallysport Direct's 2011 STi had 18x9.5 +22 on all four corners and they needed a roll and a pull in the rear, with -4* camber at all four corners to make them fit flush.

Th3_Clap did give me great advice and I am continuing on with my research and investigation into what other people have done and how they have made it fit at much more conservative cambers then what you are saying is all. I am sorry that I am actually searching the forums and digging into seeing if I can make it work the way I envision it going.

Like I have said, I have not made the commitment to buy the wheels from the person selling them with the tires. I am leaning away from NOT doing those wheels for that exact reason the poke factor like you have said, but I dont think it would be that extreme. But regardless of any set of wheels/sizing I do I am going to need to get rear control arms and camber bolts for the front to help make sure I am sitting properly.

And yes I am planning a much more conservative fitment now due to all the talk about camber etc. 18x10 +38 or so is ultimately where I will land, I am just using these other builds as reference points as I continue down my wheel journey, which is always a painful process unfortunately to get the right sizing you want

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

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GA Scooby

· #14 · Sep 27, 2013

18x10 +38 is a spot on size and you can run a 265 or 275 with a roll in the rear with some camber at all four corners. Anything in the +35 or higher range is generally a good choice.

Rferone

Discussion Starter · #15 · Sep 27, 2013

GA Scooby said:
18x10 +38 is a spot on size and you can run a 265 or 275 with a roll in the rear with some camber at all four corners. Anything in the +35 or higher range is generally a good choice.

Yeah thats what I have begun to realize these cars don't like low offsets (something I am not used to)

It looks like a lot of people use the Agency Power Control Arms and I keep trying to find other reviews as I search the forums.... its interesting to see the different versions and how they work

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

GA Scooby

· #16 · Sep 27, 2013

Rferone said:
Yeah thats what I have begun to realize these cars don't like low offsets (something I am not used to)

It looks like a lot of people use the Agency Power Control Arms and I keep trying to find other reviews as I search the forums.... its interesting to see the different versions and how they work

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

Cusco is what I have and they are far better quality than the what AP offers. Agency power is used because they are cheap and people who buy them don't care about the performance of the car.

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Rferone

Discussion Starter · #17 · Sep 27, 2013

GA Scooby said:
Cusco is what I have and they are far better quality than the what AP offers. Agency power is used because they are cheap and people who buy them don't care about the performance of the car.

Good to know because I do care haha

I just picked up my 22mm Front and Rear Superpro Sways, with AVO adjustable end links, Cusco Steering Racking Brace, Superbro Steering bushings,

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

Rferone

Discussion Starter · #18 · Sep 27, 2013

these i assume?

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cusco-692-474-L-Rear-Lateral-Link

thats not bad at all the cost....

What are your views on Strut Bars for this car waste of money or helps a bunch with the hatch as I feel the body has a good amount of roll?

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

Sabrewings

· #19 · Sep 27, 2013

A strut bar in the rear is 100% useless (no cornering loads on rear struts).

A strut bar in the front has minimal effect, especially if you don't have much stiffening elsewhere in the front.

Stiffen the springs or sway bars to counter body roll.

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Rferone

Discussion Starter · #20 · Sep 27, 2013

Sabrewings said:
A strut bar in the rear is 100% useless (no cornering loads on rear struts).

A strut bar in the front has minimal effect, especially if you don't have much stiffening elsewhere in the front.

Stiffen the springs or sway bars to counter body roll.

Awesome, yes the sways/bushings/steering bracing has been ordered.... Coilovers will be done next year.... figure no point in doing that wheels, and rear lca's until winter is done so they dont get destroyed..... PLUS I have to order snow tires lol

Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch

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