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I am thinking about going with the FP green turbo, what will I need as a total package to run this turbo? Also what kind of numbers should get and what does this turbo do for the reliablity of the car?

Any pics or listings of parts (FMIC's, BOV's, EM, etc) would be great...any vendors reccomendations would be great as well.

Thanks
 

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pwn n00bs
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check my members journal with the link in the sig
you're basically gonna want..

-720+ cc injectors
-fmic for the best benefit
-meth injection IF you want it :) you can run more boost safely with this
-custom tgv's or buy new ones already ported and sealed (tumbler deletes)
-an intake that is compatible with the fmic you get that has a larger diameter for more the maf
-a new turbo inlet..i recomment the aps hard pipe
-a good protune!

the numbers i have are 380/380 running at 19-20 psi with the crappy meth injection nozzle rated at 7 pounds

i want a retune with my new nozzle which is rated at 15 pounds so i can run like 25 psi or at least break 400whp!
 

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VSGTS hit the nail on the head... but I would say that FMIC is pretty much necessary at this stage of power. Not just for the best benefit, but almost a requirement... heatsoak at this power level will be quite evident on a top mount.
 

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VSGTS14 said:
check my members journal with the link in the sig
you're basically gonna want..

-720+ cc injectors
-fmic for the best benefit
-meth injection IF you want it :) you can run more boost safely with this
-custom tgv's or buy new ones already ported and sealed (tumbler deletes)
-an intake that is compatible with the fmic you get that has a larger diameter for more the maf
-a new turbo inlet..i recomment the aps hard pipe
-a good protune!

the numbers i have are 380/380 running at 19-20 psi with the crappy meth injection nozzle rated at 7 pounds

i want a retune with my new nozzle which is rated at 15 pounds so i can run like 25 psi or at least break 400whp!
Keep in mind that the new inlet and tumbler deletes are only NECESSARY on 3" inlet Greens. If you're going through the trouble of these mods, be sure to get a 3" version.

Another thing. I'd spend money on an EWG for a 2.4" green before doing tumbler deletes and inlet pipe on a 3" green. An EWG will see MUCH more results than a 3" green w/ inlet, tumbler deletes and using the IWG. Just food for thought. The IWG Greens typically have the turbine wheel clipped to prevent boost creep, where the EWG Greens are unclipped. An unclipped Green will spool faster, and the EWG will yield better topend and less boost drop at higher rpms. So be sure to budget for an EWG before you bother with an inlet and tumbler deletes.

New inlets are a good buy just because the stockers break after a while.
 

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where is the best "package" deals for this sort of setup?
 

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blk04sti,

I am also looking into FP Green and a Perrin FMIC and the Perrin Big MAF Intake.. Look like we are basically running IDENTICAL mods, minus the high flow..mine is Catless..

My question is.. what other accessories will I need to go with the FP, Intake and the Front Mount?? Are injectors a necessity? Or can I worry about those later on? I don't want to make 400 to wheels right now, just 360hp/375ft lbs ish to the wheels..

Any advice I can get?
 

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pwn n00bs
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running high boost will cause the stock inlet to collapse, just get a new one anyway it's worth it.

IWG or EWG is up to you...spool up isn't bad, by 3500 it hits.

you need injectors, stockers do not flow enough.

what you get depends on what size green...either 2.4" or the 3"

the 3" requires new tumbler deletes because of it's size.
 

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A few things to think about...

You were asking about reliability, and with more power comes more problems.
I've seen an engine go on a Green, and the stock clutch start to slipping from not being able to handle the power (on race gas around 26psi).
Also, you'll probably find that you're not as comfortable with the stock brakes anymore, depending on your driving habits.
You'll find yourself getting up to very high speeds much easier/quicker and will probably want to be able to slow down much faster too. IMO, this can be taken care of with S.S. lines, upgraded pads, and good fluid.
 

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pwn n00bs
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yea, the clutch will go once you hit around 375whp and up....mine should be going soon since i do have almost 25k on the car.
 

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VSGTS14 said:
yea, the clutch will go once you hit around 375whp and up....mine should be going soon since i do have almost 25k on the car.
I'm on my stock clutch at 29k miles and I made 350whp on a very low reading dyno (TDCTuning), which is supposed to be around 380 on a dynojet, and my engagement point has gotten a lot higher. I think it's not too far away from being F'd :(
 

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pt518sti said:
I'm on my stock clutch at 29k miles and I made 350whp on a very low reading dyno (TDCTuning), which is supposed to be around 380 on a dynojet, and my engagement point has gotten a lot higher. I think it's not too far away from being F'd :(
Is this from day to day abuse with this power level? Or are you constantly launching, and putting stress on the clutch?
 

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JJ18Sniper said:
Is this from day to day abuse with this power level? Or are you constantly launching, and putting stress on the clutch?
I barely ever launch on the street.
I can probably count on 1 hand the ammount of times I've actually launched hard on the street.
I've been to the dragstrip around 6 times with the car and an average of 3 runs per time. On those runs I launched around 5,000 - 5,500 rpm's. I slip the clutch on the launch too, but on a lot of the runs I had zero clutch smell.

On the dyno I had a possible slip on a few of the pulls.
There was a dip around 6,000rpm's. This could've very well been the clutch. I don't notice it slipping on the street, so IDK...
I definitly notice the engagement point has gotten higher though.

Overall, I wouldn't say I've abused the clutch. I do bang through the gears quite a bit.. in other words I don't drive it like an old lady.
 

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slipping the clutch that many times is more than enough to hose your clutch. SOA says that even one time is enough to ruin it.
 

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Saabaru STI said:
Keep in mind that the new inlet and tumbler deletes are only NECESSARY on 3" inlet Greens. If you're going through the trouble of these mods, be sure to get a 3" version.

Another thing. I'd spend money on an EWG for a 2.4" green before doing tumbler deletes and inlet pipe on a 3" green. An EWG will see MUCH more results than a 3" green w/ inlet, tumbler deletes and using the IWG. Just food for thought. The IWG Greens typically have the turbine wheel clipped to prevent boost creep, where the EWG Greens are unclipped. An unclipped Green will spool faster, and the EWG will yield better topend and less boost drop at higher rpms. So be sure to budget for an EWG before you bother with an inlet and tumbler deletes.

New inlets are a good buy just because the stockers break after a while.


I just bought a used Green with an IWG setup. I've purchased an UR 38mm EWG. Since the turbine wheel is clipped would it be much of a point in getting an EWG setup anymore? I'm gonna get the WG welded too. Well I've bought all the parts already not sure what to do now.
 

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SubaruBen said:
I just bought a used Green with an IWG setup. I've purchased an UR 38mm EWG. Since the turbine wheel is clipped would it be much of a point in getting an EWG setup anymore? I'm gonna get the WG welded too. Well I've bought all the parts already not sure what to do now.

You're still better off with the EWG. Especially if you ever run race gas, it'll hold boost better.

Look all the threads with EWG Greens, and I think the charts will push you to use it. I'd sell the Green and get a new one. Shouldn't be too much more.
 

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I've got the IWG green together with a EWG, and Im just as friggin happy as that green thing in your avatar.

Dont go to any great lengths to swap out, IMHO.

chris
 

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RainMaker said:
I've got the IWG green together with a EWG, and Im just as friggin happy as that green thing in your avatar.

Dont go to any great lengths to swap out, IMHO.

chris
i think i'm just gonna keep the setup. if im gonna get an new turbo its gonna be the UR T04s kit.
 
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