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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have assembled my Ohlins Coilovers, but at the moment I'm having a hard time torquing the locknut on the rear assembly. Says to torque to 30Nm (22ft/lbs.). I have a crows foot on a torque wrench and using a flat blade screwdriver to hold the shaft, as the manual states. I can't for the life of me get the torque wrench to click while trying to hold with a screwdriver handle. You can't overcome the torque while gripping a round handle. I found some hex keys that fit in the groove, but they are so thin, that they just bend before 22ft/bs. is achieved.

There must be a trick, or people are just tightening as tight as they can manage...

I don't understand why they don't just machine wrench flats on the top of the shaft like almost every other manufacturer does...
 

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i think most are just using air impacts on them...maybe grab a second pair of hands to help hold the screwdriver...
 

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Not a solution, but adjust the torque value for the crows foot at whatever angle it is.
 

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I think most people just give it a quick brap with an impact gun. Maybe needle nose vice grips could work.
 

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Impact probably isn't the best idea for both achieving proper torque and not damaging the seals from spinning the shaft.

Much easier to put an allen socket ($5 tool) on the torque wrench and use a box/crescent on the nut. Small cost for expensive coilovers.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Impact probably isn't the best idea for both achieving proper torque and not damaging the seals from spinning the shaft.

Much easier to put an allen socket ($5 tool) on the torque wrench and use a box/crescent on the nut. Small cost for expensive coilovers.
Not sure if you read my original post, but there is no hex interface. It's a straight slot cut into the top of the shaft for a screwdriver. Shitty design, but that's what's there.
 

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Road and track, not TTX, right? They must have changed the design. Mine had a 5 or 6mm Allen. Well, that would make things challenging.
 
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