[jharris48]

Nice to see another GR chassis car getting done right! Carry on good sir.

Haha, thanks and will do! I thought I was getting my car with the break in tune this week, however they found a leak in the brake booster vacuum system which was messing with the trims during the tune. I have to travel for a few weeks for work, so I’ll have to wait till after my work trip to get the car and break it in.

 

[jharris48]

After being away from home for work for a while I was able to get home and pick the car up from Antspec. I just finished putting the first 1000 miles on the motor yesterday and completed the oil change to the 5w-40 MOTUL (The shop recommended running the 15w-40 rotella as a break in with a change at 500 miles and again at 1000). Driving the car around on the limp tune has been fairly unnotable, however some of the great new turbo noises hint at how great it’s going to be on final tune and being able to exceed 4K rpms haha.

I have had an issue with a P0108 code popping about every 200 miles. The car continues to run fine and after talking with the tuner it sounds like it’s not a significant concern at the moment. I’m going down tomorrow for the final tune tomorrow and they will work all the kinks out. I’ll share the Dyno and results when I get them tomorrow.

Of note, the Process West intercooler that I was going to have has been so back ordered that I’m getting the final tune without it. Once the intercooler shows up in about a month I’ll get it retuned (a waste of money maybe, but I just want to be able to enjoy this car; I’m tired of getting delayed for parts).

 

[Jay11STI]

Of note, the Process West intercooler that I was going to have has been so back ordered that I’m getting the final tune without it. Once the intercooler shows up in about a month I’ll get it retuned (a waste of money maybe, but I just want to be able to enjoy this car; I’m tired of getting delayed for parts).

Getting parts for anything now is just a disaster, its been a disaster. Ive learned now to call ahead and confirm before placing an order. The term "in stock" now a days doesnt actually mean that, just means its available or its carried LoL.

BTW, if your sticking with TMIC, have you considered the Spearco TMIC? From what ive herd and seen, its huge, efficicent and old school. I've herd on here that the spearco and Process West TMIC are probably the best options when comparing to stock.

Give it a shot, call around, you might be able to find a Spearco unit somewhere if you're on a time frame.

 

[jharris48]

Thanks for the info. “In stock” really has become a meaningless term haha. I’m going to stick with the Process West since it’s already ordered and is shipping in allegedly 2 weeks.

 

[jharris48]

This. Thing. Rips!

Got the final tune done down at Antspec and this thing does not disappoint. The spool is very close to stock and once the DOM 1.5 starts pulling, it dosen’t stop till red line. Wow, this thing drives great! I think it really hits that sweet spot of maintaining close to stock drivability while adding a dramatic increase in performance. Here are the stock dyno runs and the final tune from yesterday. Of note, the process west intercooler is still back ordered, so the final tune below is with the OEM intercooler and limits the boost the car can push. There is still a little more power on the table:

 

[Kazagath]

Looking good sso far! Following

 

[jharris48]

I was finally able to get the Subie out to an autocross after being out of town for five weeks. It did not disappoint. I just have to figure our how to share a video on here. The only problem was that I get up to speed so fast that I found myself constantly on the rev limiter of second gear and it was only worth up shifting on one section. But that’s a course/gearing pairing problem.

The best thing I recently discovered is Carbotech’s 1521 street compound comes in the the pad shape for my AP Racing brake kit. I swapped them in for in between track days and they are perfect for the occasional street drive! The Federo pads are great, but just super noisy on the street.

My process west intercooler continues to slide to the right with the latest expected ETA mid November…lame. I have some track time at Laguna Seca lined up next week, so I’ll share some data and video/pictures post the event.

 

[jharris48]

Login • Instagram

This is the best I can do for sharing the video, for now anyway

 

[yamahaSHO]

What Process West intercooler are you getting? V-mount? If not, the stock TMIC is better than the PW TMIC.

 

[jharris48]

What Process West intercooler are you getting? V-mount? If not, the stock TMIC is better than the PW TMIC.

Can you provide data relevant to my specific motor set up supporting this claim?

 

[yamahaSHO]

I'm not sure what your specific motor has to do with it. The PW TMIC was tested against the WRX intercooler long ago, where it prevailed. The original STi intercooler was better and since then (2008), has gotten bigger. I have NEVER seen an aftermarket TMIC perform as well as a 2008+ TMIC. The problem with using a lot of aluminum (aside from being much heavier), is that the heat soak and recover far more slowly. I did some testing on a dyno day several years back and found out exactly this.

The information is out there. If staying TMIC, you'd be much better off with a stock TMIC and fitting a boost activated fogger over it. TMIC's are just a bad way of doing it, especially if you're AutoX'ing and tracking it. If you're going to spend money, go with a V-mount. It will perform far better, recover faster, and keep the piping short.

I understand cooling on track (as well as at high altitude):

 

[jharris48]

I'm not sure what your specific motor has to do with it. The PW TMIC was tested against the WRX intercooler long ago, where it prevailed. The original STi intercooler was better and since then (2008), has gotten bigger. I have NEVER seen an aftermarket TMIC perform as well as a 2008+ TMIC. The problem with using a lot of aluminum (aside from being much heavier), is that the heat soak and recover far more slowly. I did some testing on a dyno day several years back and found out exactly this.

The information is out there. If staying TMIC, you'd be much better off with a stock TMIC and fitting a boost activated fogger over it.

Thank you for your input. I’ll post what the results are when the guys down at Ant Spec get done with it.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I already know the results.

 

[Karlot]

Killer b had a thread not too long ago that detailed why the oem tmic is better than aftermarket tmic.

 

[jharris48]

Killer b had a thread not too long ago that detailed why the oem tmic is better than aftermarket tmic.

Thank you for your input. I am aware of these articles.

 

[jharris48]

I found some livable pads for the occasional street drive with the AP Racing Competition Brake Kit (Front CP8350/325)

The kit by default will ship with the Ferodo DS2500 which are advertised as a steerable auto X and light track use pad. It did handle the heat of Laguna Seca at stock power levels no problem, however they are very noisy and dusty on the street. Right after a thorough bed in, when there is plenty of material transferred to the rotor, the pads are quiet. But after a few days of street driving the material wears off the rotors and they become very noisy.

Carbotech offers compounds in the pad shape that fits the AP Racing kit, and to my surprise they offer their 1521 street compound. I ordered a set of Carbotech CTFRP3116 AP Racing CP8350 D50 Brake Pads 18mm and bedded them in last week. They did the trick! Performance and dust are close to OEM levels with no noise. I don't street drive much, so I'll provide more info over time if things change.

Once I use up the DS2500 Ferodo pads in the next couple track days, I'll likely step to a more aggressive compound since I found a pad that can do street use. They handle the heat of track abuse (at least a stock power levels), but I'd like to try something with a little more bite and expect they may have some trouble with the recent increase in power.

I also ran Hawk Street/Race pads on the OEM system for a couple track days a couple years ago. They had an impressively strong bite, but they were a bit too much for me at the time, as I often found myself over slowing. I'm sure the driver was the primary issue.

There are a lot of compounds out their in the pad shape, so I'll do some digging and share the results whenever I make a change.

 

[Karlot]

I found some livable pads for the occasional street drive with the AP Racing Competition Brake Kit (Front CP8350/325)

The kit by default will ship with the Ferodo DS2500 which are advertised as a steerable auto X and light track use pad. It did handle the heat of Laguna Seca at stock power levels no problem, however they are very noisy and dusty on the street. Right after a thorough bed in, when there is plenty of material transferred to the rotor, the pads are quiet. But after a few days of street driving the material wears off the rotors and they become very noisy.

Carbotech offers compounds in the pad shape that fits the AP Racing kit, and to my surprise they offer their 1521 street compound. I ordered a set of Carbotech CTFRP3116 AP Racing CP8350 D50 Brake Pads 18mm and bedded them in last week. They did the trick! Performance and dust are close to OEM levels with no noise. I don't street drive much, so I'll provide more info over time if things change.
View attachment 63956

Once I use up the DS2500 Ferodo pads in the next couple track days, I'll likely step to a more aggressive compound since I found a pad that can do street use. They handle the heat of track abuse (at least a stock power levels), but I'd like to try something with a little more bite and expect they may have some trouble with the recent increase in power.

I also ran Hawk Street/Race pads on the OEM system for a couple track days a couple years ago. They had an impressively strong bite, but they were a bit too much for me at the time, as I often found myself over slowing. I'm sure the driver was the primary issue.

There are a lot of compounds out their in the pad shape, so I'll do some digging and share the results whenever I make a change.

please do lol. i started autocrossing a few years ago and have more and more gone towards trackcross and next year (hopefully) will start hpde days. so getting a more aggressive pad is something ive been looking into, last trackcross after a single lap i felt mine getting spongy...didnt fade....but i dont think they'd hold up to an hpde day.

 

[jharris48]

First track day with the new motor at Laguna Seca complete. I was hitting about 15 mph faster in the straights over the stock motor. The following statement is posted on Essex's website in regard to the Ferodo DS2500 pad compound:

"When used on high HP, heavier cars (2,800 lbs+) on the track with race tires, pad wear rates tend to be higher than on Ferodo Racing's other pad compounds. Under those conditions, Essex would recommend the Ferodo DS1.11 or DSUNO."

I can verify this is accurate haha. The brakes did fine, but on the laps I was really pushing the car the pads just couldn't keep up with the higher speeds. I had noticeable pad fade. I'll swap to the DS1.11 for the next set most likely.

Ambient temperatures were mostly mid 50's and coolant temps were higher than I hoped. I have to get an oil temp gauge added soon, so I don't know how the oil temp was this time. The coolant mostly stayed below 210, but on some of the really hard laps it did momentarily spike to 221. The temp would come down quickly as you back off, but I'll have to start looking into some ducting or other avenues to keep it under control when running at places like Button Willow in the summer.

 

[jharris48]

Here is an overlay comparing an open lap on the old motor compared to my quickest lap on the new motor. A few things stick out to me on this:

Blue line = Lap with new motor
Red line = Lap with OEM motor
Suspension set up is the exact same for both

1) The blue line reaches higher speeds on the straight, but also brakes later and harder which yielded more gains than the outright speed through turn one and into turn 2.
2) Exit speeds out of turn 3 and turn 4 were similar, however corner speeds were much faster. This really just points more toward driving better aka not sucking as much, and not a speed increase due to the motor.
3) The blue line gets on the throttle later, but quickly catches the red line in speed and then exceeds it by turn 5.
4) Due to the extra power, I didn't feel the need to downshift through turn 5. The blue line accelerates from a similar speed in 4th gear while the red line is in 3rd gear. You can see the acceleration in 4th by the blue line is the same as red in 3rd. Once red has to shift into 4th the divergence of the two traces really shows the increased acceleration of the new motor. Also, the blue line maintains a higher corner speed through turn 5.
5) Coming out of Turn 6 into the Rahal Straight toward the corkscrew show cases the new motor's power best. The blue line maintains faster corner speed through turn 6. Both the red and blue lines reach a similar speed entering the straight. Then the blue line starts a steeper climb and diverges from the slower acceleration of the red line. When the red line starts braking the blue line is doing 9 mph faster and continues to accelerate to 101 prior to braking. Driver improvement also helps pick up some speed in the corkscrew.
6) The blue line botches turn 11. Late braking leads to a fast in slow out for the blue line. Additionally, the car gets upset and traction control kicks in and compounds the slow exit for blue out of turn 11. However, this shows off how much faster the new engine accelerates. Prior to the start finish line, the blue line has caught up to the red line.

 

[jharris48]

First Christmas Miracle of the season today! I had gotten word that the Process West intercooler was now not going to come in till January, and then all the sudden it showed up. Simultaneously someone had to cancel their dyno time, and I got to use the time. So the results are a +5HP gain and a surprising +21 ft-lbs of torque. I primarily wanted the intercooler to help keep intake temps down durning hot track days, but the cooler intake air allowed the tuner to push a little more psi and thus a little more power. Overall, I hope it keeps power output more consistent with more resistance to heat soak. It's looking like I won't get any track time till next fall due to my work schedule though.