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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,
Purchased a new 2018 WR Blue STI Limited with Low Profile Spoiler, Short Shift Kit and Subaru Performance Exhaust back on June 2, 2018. Figured it would be interesting to keep a one stop journal of my mods and feedback on the car, in general.

I live in California (Los Gatos) and purchased my car from Lithia Subaru in Reno, NV. Around the Bay Area, where I live, every STI is sold at MSRP or above with dealer mark ups. I purchased my car at invoice - $500, so pretty happy on the price and was only a 50 minute flight to go pick it up. The dealer picked me up at the airport and I was done with purchase in about an hour. Very easy and smooth.

Drove it home the next morning on a 4-5 hour leisurely drive through the Sierra Nevada mountains and Lake Tahoe. Was a little boring to drive that far and baby it constantly shifting between 5-6th to vary engine speeds. Was very happy with the ride quality and the interior quality.

My original plan for this car was to do only intake or DP with accessport as far as power/power delivery upgrades. I've gone back and forth and still think that will be about as far as I go. Chances are, I will also do ELH just for the added benefit of reliability and reduced strain on engine. I will do AP, Cobb DP, and Killer B ELH all at the same time, along with some version of AOS. Plan to to this around 3-4K miles and have it protuned at GST Motorsports as I am lucky to live about 30 miles away.

1st Mod was to remove chrome fender badges and rear lid "Subaru AWD" badges and replace with the OEM Hyperblue Black Badges. I'm very happy with the outcome. I'll add pictures in a day or two. I'd also like to have a black trimmed STI badge on the rear, but this was not offered on Hyperblue package and the aftermarket versions seem to have poor quality to I'm happy to leave the factory badge for now.

I've also ordered gloss black frames for the front and rear star field badges. Those will get installed this week some time.

Did my 1st oil change last week at 1K and used the Black JDM Filter with Motul X-Clean EFE 5W-30.

State of the Build:

JDM STI Push to Start Button - DONE
Group N Trans Mount - DONE
Group N Pitch Stop - DONE
Group N Motor Mounts - DONE
Cobb Front and Rear Shifter bushings - DONE
Raceseng Topoligi Shift Knob - DONE
Kart Boy Rear Differential Bushing Wedge Kit - DONE
Kart Boy Transmission Mount Bushings - DONE
Perrin Brake Master Cylinder Brace - DONE
Fumoto Drain Plug - DONE
Prolightz Fog Lamp Kit - DONE
SPC Front Camber Bolts - DONE
SPC Rear Adjustable Control Arms - Done
Cobb Accessport - Done
Cobb Downpipe and Turbo Heatshield - Done
Protune @ GST - Done

2nd Act - Added 8/23/2019

Killer Bee Holy Header and Up Pipe - DONE
Killer Bee Oil Pick Up - DONE
Cobb Intake + Air Box Kit - DONE
Cobb 1050 Fuel Injectors - DONE
Cobb Fuel Pressure Reg Kit - DONE
Cobb/AEM Fuel Pump - DONE
Cobb 3 Port Boost Control Solenoid - DONE
IAG Street Series AOS - DONE
New Protune - DONE

09/08/19

Cobb Catback - Done


09/24/19

Cobb Flex Fuel Kit - Ordered
Öhlins Road and Track Coilovers - Ordered
RaceComp Swaybar Bars - Ordered
Whiteline Roll Center Kit - Ordered

11/19/2019- Update

Flex fuel installed and pro tuned at EQT Tuning in Fairfield, CA
I installed my Öhlins Coil Overs and h ave playing with ride height and dampening
Will install my Whiteline Bump Kit this week before going in for alignment and corner balance

11/23/2019

Titan 7 T-R10 18 X 9.5 in Techna Bronze - Ordered
Michelin PS4S in 265/35/18 - Ordered
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Installed the other badges and black frames...

The factory "Hyperblue" Badges are awesome and of perfect quality. The Aftermarket black frames for star field badges are ok, but fit and overall quality is pretty crappy. Probably should have left those alone, especially for the amount of time it takes to remove the old ones and clean the tape.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Very productive upgrade day for me. Got out to garage early this morning and got started.

Installed the STI Push Start Switch: This went pretty quick as it only took about 10 min so or so. I have to admit, I'm a little ashamed of buying this for the price, but I really like the way it looks in the car. No regrets.

After that, I popped the hood and got started on the Perrin a Master Cylinder Brace. Although it seems very accessible, this one is a little bit of a pain. Car needs to be jacked up. As one of the bolts is installed from the wheel well side. I need to jack the car anyway for the other mods planned for the day and it made it much easier to tighten all the bolts from underneath the car. I noticed the firewall flex the 1st time I drove the car, so this will be a nice upgrade and relatively easy to install. I was a little annoyed as they provided one incorrect bolt, but luckily I found it pretty easily at the hardware store.

From there, I installed the Cobb front and rear shifter bushings. This was not as difficult as many have complained about. The rear bushing bolts went in pretty easy for me using a long series of extensions. Unfortunately, the factory short shifter still has the exact same amount of play after this installation. I have not driveon the car yet, but sitting in the car going through the gears gave me very little change of feel. Hopefully tire driving experience will prove me wrong.

Then I went on to install the Group N Trans Mount. Pretty straight forward install here. Nothing complicated and I'm sure it will make a difference with all the other mods.

After that, I installed the Kartboy positive shift bushings. A little time consuming and awkward, but nothing technical. I do wish Kartboy would do a little work and provide some basic instructions for their kits. Other threads and videos confirmed where these needed to be installed and they will work well with all other related upgrades, I'm sure.

To finish off the day of modding, I also installed the Rear Diff Wedge Kit. Although this was an extremely simple installation, once again Kartboy can't be bothered to provide simple instructions or a. Diagram to verify where things are supposed to be installed. This is extremely annoying to me. There is one terrible YouTube video that someone made and they actually installed some things incorrectly, and after browsing other forums, I've found this video has misguided many people. I'm glad I took the time to do a little digging through conversations to figure how these are supposed to be installed. A lot of confusion could be avoided with a very simple diagram.

Felt like I got a lot done today. Not looking forward doing engine mounts, but I figured I would save the pitch stop install for that day.

Didn't get pics of everything, but here are a few...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Installed the Group N Pitch Stop last night. I know there have been a few discussions and claims that there is no difference between the standard STI and Group N Pitch Stop, and I'm starting to think the same.

Maybe they have changed spec on 2018 model, but I can tell you that every number on the Group N Pitch Stop matched the numbers on the unit I removed from my new car. The dogbone, and both bushings had part numbers that matched exactly! The only difference was the yellow paint stamped "STI" on the Group N I purchased. I guess there is always the chance that the durometer is different in the rear bushing, but hard to believe they would use the same part number on the bushing...

I'll update this after I've done a little driving, but keep in mind that I have already done trans mount, trans crossmember bushings, and rear diff wedgelock kit.

Update 8/23:
Once again, maybe the 2018 pitch stop was updated, but I never felt any difference after installing the Group N Pitch Stop. Thinking some day, I will upgrade this to something stiffer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Installed the Prolightz Fog Lamp Kit.

Had to do a couple repairs and adjustments to the parts in the kit to complete the install, but it's on now and I really like the look. The color of the Morimoto Lamps is pretty much an exact match to the 2018 LED headlamps. The electrical solution Prolightz provides is top notch and excellent quality, as long as you do not require the switch in your car. I don't really see the need for the in car switch, anyway. All my others cars that are equipped with fog lamps, have switches in the car and I never turn them off. I also appreciate that with this setup, they stay on when I turn on the high beams.

To be crystal clear, the repair/adjustments had nothing to do with Prolightz harness, but with other parts in the kit.

8/23 Update:
After having these mounted and driving for over a month, I would skip this upgrade as these fogs are not functional, in my opinion. I will admit that they make a difference in the front end appearance of the car, but they do nothing to produce more use-able light and I drive mountain roads every night. I have a 2018 and I believe the upgraded LED and Steering Response headlights take away any need for driving/fog lights. I have to prop myself up in my seat to see any light from these and after adjusting the pointing height, they just blend into the headlight beam. If your looking for functionality, skip this upgrade and spend the $300 on something more useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Knocked out the Group N engine mounts this morning. Just didn't want to wait anymore. This job only took two hours because I made sure I had the right tools. In my opinion, after reading many threads on this subject, I decided that a bottle jack and a flexhead ratcheting wrench in XL length makes the job so much easier.

Bottle jack supports and lifts the engine while taking up very little valuable workspace under the car. I cut up a few pieces on wood to get the correct height needed and to distribute the weight across the oil pan.

The flex head ratcheting wrench in XL length makes it a breeze to get those rear engine mount bolts. Flex head makes the angle very easy to deal with and the XL length gives you all the leverage you need to break the bolt free and get it tightened back up.

Now that every drivetrain mount and bushing have been upgraded, the car has completely transformed. The responsiveness is improved and you know that your loosing less energy through spongy mounts and bushings so your certainly getting more immediate power to the wheels.

I would say that if your worried about power upgrades because of tuning and engine mods, address all the these mounts and bushings and you will feel more power and torque.

Update 8/23:
Immediate difference was evident, but I've either very quickly become used to the upgrades, or they have broken in because I really don't notice much difference. If I had to the Engine, Pitch, and Trans mounts all over again, I would get something with a higher durometer. Either the race spec STI or something like Torque Solution parts would be more evident, but I also do not care about Noise, Vibration, and Harshness. I loved the solid mounts in my Mazdaspeed 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finally hit 4000 miles. Last night, I ordered my Cobb Accessport, Downpipe, and Heatshield. Hope to be installing them this weekend. I'll load the base stage 2 map and then make an appointment to get dyno tuned by GST Motorsports.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The price tag is ludicrous. There are several you tube videos showing how to install it. Took me about 5 mins start to finish. Just need to be confident when popping interior panels. Pretty easy
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm in San Jose. Just hit 1000 miles on my Lapis Blue 18 STi. I'm thinking of getting an oil change soon, should I go with what the dealership recommends?

What do you think of these guys? Our Shop at Auto Headquarter Motorsports

Thanks!
The Oil/Filter debate is never ending. If you ask 20 people, you'll get about 18 different answers. I asked GST Performance in Femont and they basically said use a Subaru filter and sythetic oil.

I bought he JDM Filters off Amazon and currently using 5/30 Motul.

As far as using Auto Headquarter Motorsports, I have no idea. I have always worked on all my own cars. The only time I take my car to the dealer is it is warranty related. Another local place worth looking at would be Mann Engineering. They are local Subaru experts, as well and Delicious Tuning visits there shops for custom dyno tuning 4 times a year.

Good luck and congrats on the new STI.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a close friend who has done the driving school at Infineon with his wife and loved it so much he went and bought a 911, followed by a Viper and is now a track whore. If you have the money and time, I think it’s worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Received my COBB AP, Downpipe, and Heatshield from @[email protected] yesterday when I got home from work.

I will be doing my 2nd oil change and installing the downpipe tomorrow, but yesterday, I went ahead and married the AP to the car and flashed OTS Stage 1 map. I really like the idea of the boost limited drive modes and the car pulls quite a bit harder throughout the rev range, even in I Mode. Power delivery is very linear and less top end peaky. Wish I would have installed this immediately. My only complaint up front with the OTS map, is that engine RPM is very slow to fall back to idle when clutching and coming to a stop. Not sure it that's intentional or not, but going to be very annoying in parking lots and stop/go traffic. Maybe its just because the ECU was reset with flash and needs to learn. Stock map never did that.

Now I'm really excited to install the downpipe and flash stage 2. Once that's done, I will get a custom tune. Not sure if Ill have my protune done right away at GST or wait for ELH and oil pickup. @[email protected] offers free etune with purchase of Stage II parts so might be worthwhile to take advantage of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Downpipe is in and OTS Stage 2 flashed. Went for about 20-30 miles drive and I'm pretty disappointed in the butt feel. Peak boost in S# is lower than when I was stock. Has a nice linear feel, but power wise feels exactly the same as Stage 1 Flash. No drastic increase for "in car" sound levels which zi very much appreciate.

I'll drive it for a few days before installing HWG flash if peak boost doesn't come up. I'm sure one of the reasons for my disappointment is that I live in a California and only have 91 octane. I still expected some butt feel difference for increased torque.

Hoping a custom tune will make a bit of a difference
 

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would just a downpipe make a difference on a stock exhaust though? I'm not sure

great build so far I ilike the fact you jumped right..dealer has no issues with the mods?
 
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