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First few oil changed where $88 for my 08 STi with mobil 1. I was about to start doing them myself but dont have the ramps or all the tools yet.

Well I got my oil changed at subbie dealer for $14.95 last week. I brought in a 5qt jug of mobil 1 5w-30 which i got a wal mart for $26. Had a coupon for $24.95 oil change. In the end they only charged me $14.95.

They did however not attach the plastic skid thing under the car to well and I had to drive back to have them put in the 2 missing clips.......

Think I will get some of thoes tools i need after all.
 

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Crush washer direction? I did a little google search and it looks like flat side on the pan. Thought I would the thoughts of everyone here.
 

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Was looking for an explanation of why to use different weights but...

FYI Walmart has a few full synthetics in 5 quart jugs for like 23.99. I've bought Mobil 1 and now i use the Castrol Syntec and that price blows away any deal i've seen on buying 5 quarts in seperates (full syn). Anyone know better deals??
 

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I just bought 2 gallon jugs for the price of 1 of Valvoline full synthetic 5w-30. They are having a deal right now. I got 2 gallons for 28.99! Go to O'Reilly Auto Parts (used to be Kragen).
 

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Crush washer direction? I did a little google search and it looks like flat side on the pan. Thought I would the thoughts of everyone here.
I would like to respectfully disagree. I believe the flat side of the washer goes against the drain plug and the crushable side goes against the pan. This is how my original gasket was and how I have done all of my replacement gaskets.

Now, the real question: does anyone know how much torque goes on the 12mm undertray bolts for the GR? I saw 12-15 lb-ft floated around on NASIOC on an old thread. So I put 12-15 lb-ft on them 3 days ago, and that seemed about right, but I don't want to overtighten and strip them.
 

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I would like to respectfully disagree. I believe the flat side of the washer goes against the drain plug and the crushable side goes against the pan. This is how my original gasket was and how I have done all of my replacement gaskets.

Now, the real question: does anyone know how much torque goes on the 12mm undertray bolts for the GR? I saw 12-15 lb-ft floated around on NASIOC on an old thread. So I put 12-15 lb-ft on them 3 days ago, and that seemed about right, but I don't want to overtighten and strip them.
I have done the crush washer both ways since I never knew it mattered. I have not had an issue with a leak. I *think* the correct way is flat side towards the bolt.

As for the torque on the undertray bolts, tight foot-pounds. This is one of those cases where you really don't need to be that exact. So long as they are tight, you are in good shape. I also suggest covering those bolts with some anti-sieze, it makes their removal a WHOLE lot easier. :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Oops! Didn't realize the pics were gone. I will try and find the originals and repost them. Sorry for the lack of update on this guys!
 

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For those of you running syn oil did you change right away to syn? Or wait till 10k? Reason I ask is most seals in the motor take almost 10k miles to seat correctly. In some cases even longer. And even though the weight and viscosity is the same the compounds in the oils are different. In my s2k and g37 it was highly recommended to wait until 10k before switching to syn to allow the seals to seat correctly. So switching from mineral oil to syn before 10k can causes leaks and blow back. Asked the service manager about this at my dealer while having my cluster plastic replaced.(big scratch at pick up). And he said the same thing. Wait till 10k before switching. And since my dealer gave me 2 years full service included including oil changes every 3k I don't need to switch to syn till I'm doing all my own work. Granted first change at 1k I'm doing since they call for first switch at 3k
 

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I did my first oil change in my 2011 GR today, and wanted to post a few tips on removing the undercover. The cover is held on by three 12mm bolts, two in front and one in back. There are two plastic clips that hold the rear edge on, you can pry them off by applying pressure to the tabs that hold them in. Also, there are two push pins up high near the wheel well. For those get a long flat bladed screwdriver and pry the pin out about 1/4-1/2" to release it. Then you can pull the entire push pin assembly out. When you re-install, make sure the pin is in the "out" position and then insert the assembly, then push the pin back in.

One more thing, I was able to get the car up on rhino ramps. There's about 1/2" clearance with stock suspension.
 
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