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Will you follow the break in requirement?

  • Follow break in period full 1000 miles

    Votes: 306 65.5%
  • Give it a couple hundred miles then open her up

    Votes: 89 19.1%
  • What break in period. Let it fly.

    Votes: 72 15.4%

  • Total voters
    467
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Discussion Starter #1
Subaru's still recommending a 1000 mile break in period where you shouldn't be going past 3000 RPM. Looking for opinions on what people think of this. I picked up my 2015 Limited today and quickly learned following this guideline limits you to roughly 70 mph in 6th gear. Such a tease having so much more power in the car and not being able to use it yet.
 

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its still the same engine. so the same concept applies. whatever you can do to keep those rings alive man. I say go the full 1k as painful as it may be
 

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Be patient my friend. I know it sucks having to hold back on the trigger but the EJ257 is crazy tight when its new (as im sure you have felt) but it will loosen up with time and you wont regret it.
 

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Once the engine is completely warm, after 10 minutes or so of driving, lots of mild/ moderate acceleration and even more deceleration using engine braking. Keeping it under the red maybe 5.5 k or so. .Then once at 500 miles up to the redline using the same tech .that's how I treated my 2009 STI which had the cobb stage 1 installed as I drove off the lot. Burns no oil and zero problems at 36 K.

Theres lots of theories here if you search.. . .Just have fun your covered anyway. But warm the engine !!! and vary throttle !!! no highway road trips !!!
 

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Once the engine is completely warm, after 10 minutes or so of driving, lots of mild/ moderate acceleration and even more deceleration using engine braking. Keeping it under the red maybe 5.5 k or so. .Then once at 500 miles up to the redline using the same tech .that's how I treated my 2009 STI which had the cobb stage 1 installed as I drove off the lot. Burns no oil and zero problems at 36 K.

Theres lots of theories here if you search.. . .Just have fun your covered anyway. But warm the engine !!! and vary throttle !!! no highway road trips !!!
The highway road trip is what I'm worried about. I have a deposit down on a STI in my area but I was alerted to a pretty good deal about 300+ miles away. I would have to get down and get it so I would be hitting the highway all the way back.
 

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I have this concern also. I have my pickup and a car trailer to hall it back with though. Check around or ask friends and family someone probably knows of someone who has a trailer/truck if you don't have one you could use. Sign for the car, drive it around for an hr or two bring it back to the dealer and trailer it. Hopefully that will feed the craving for a few hrs till you get home.
 

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The biggest thing I see while researching.. is not keeping the engine too hot for long.. drive soft or even hard for 20 minutes let the car cool. Obviously this is unrealistic so drive soft.. im still arguing with myself what to do...either drive too and from work boringly for a month to break it in.. or do it in one go.. for 150 miles im going to drive hard to and from work 15 minutes away and by the time I get there let the engine cool. Its all about heating your engine up and cooling it down heating it up cooling it down..

I did NOT want to wait for my ducati to be broken in. Best 100 bucks ive ever spent.. they had discounts at a dealership where they dyno broke it in. Went through all the gears almost full throttle then let it engine break through all the gears.. turn bike off let it cool with the big dyno fan do it again 3 more times.. they broke that baby in beautifully in 40 minutes

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This is my conclusion after researching on both the soft method (manual) and the hard method (mototune).

Similarities:
1. No sustain on particular rpm
2. Not get engine too hot

I am biased towards the hard method because it makes sense to me to load the piston ring against cylinder wall. I therefore arrived at a middle ground between the 2 methods.

What I did:
After warming up at idle when picking up my new car. I drive it to the nearest uphill road I can find. I did this in the evening before the dealership was about to close so ambient temp is cool. I did 3 runs of half throttle uphill (below 4k rpm) and engine brake down the hill in 3rd gear every time. Then I did 3 pulls of hit red line at full throttle up the hill and same rev matched engine braking down the hill.

After all this, I just drive normally. My car is still stock and I have not consume any oil in between changes.

getting old and saggy
 

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^ interesting. How many miles are you at? Its all subjective it seems as well.. Just the past few years the lubricants they use for the first 600 miles alone jumped in advancement. The engineers who designed these lubricant say you don't even need to worry about break in anymore. But I like your method


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Subaru's still recommending a 1000 mile break in period where you shouldn't be going past 3000 RPM. Looking for opinions on what people think of this. I picked up my 2015 Limited today and quickly learned following this guideline limits you to roughly 70 mph in 6th gear. Such a tease having so much more power in the car and not being able to use it yet.
The break in RPM not to exceed is 4000 not 3000
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The break in RPM not to exceed is 4000 not 3000
Thanks for the clarification. That should make a nice difference. Think I decided to give the car time and break it in properly per Subaru's instructions. Looking for this car to last a long time.
 

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Follow the break-in procedure as the first bit with the car is crucial period, keep your RPM under 4k for the first 1000 miles and just drive the car normally, then change the oil to a quality oil (I like Redline 5w30) a magnetic drain plug doesn't hurt either. I also highly recommend installing a Crawford V2 Air Oil Separator.
 

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Follow the break-in procedure as the first bit with the car is crucial period, keep your RPM under 4k for the first 1000 miles and just drive the car normally, then change the oil to a quality oil (I like Redline 5w30) a magnetic drain plug doesn't hurt either. I also highly recommend installing a Crawford V2 Air Oil Separator.
How is the grimspeed air oil separator?
 

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I'm wondering how that stack of sti's are doing after the track event at Laguna. I saw one odometer reading 6** something ...now that's a break in!
 

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Here's what Cosworth has to say about break in for their built EJ257 engines. hint: it's the same as the factory recommendation.

http://208.106.249.235/store/pc/catalog/subaru sti ej25 short block all install v1.0c.pdf

I think the trick is to avoid prolonged operation at the same RPM. For you guys driving on the highway after delivery, just take an exit from the highway every so often and use engine braking to slow to the stop. Check out some scenery along the way to allow for heat cycles, etc. Drive through some downtown areas to get more running up/down the rev ranges.
 

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Here's what Cosworth has to say about break in for their built EJ257 engines. hint: it's the same as the factory recommendation.

http://208.106.249.235/store/pc/catalog/subaru sti ej25 short block all install v1.0c.pdf

I think the trick is to avoid prolonged operation at the same RPM. For you guys driving on the highway after delivery, just take an exit from the highway every so often and use engine braking to slow to the stop. Check out some scenery along the way to allow for heat cycles, etc. Drive through some downtown areas to get more running up/down the rev ranges.
COBB's break in recommendation for built engines is also quite similar to factory recommendation: COBB Tuning - Subaru Accesstuner Pro. Difference here is sounds like they recommend increasing the rpm limit slightly towards the end of the 1,000mi. They also stress not hitting very much boost at all. The COBB certified tuner that I will be using also seconded this recommendation/factory recommendation for both new and built engines. They also recommended changing the oil at 1,000mi to make sure any bits of metal are removed, and they recommended using dino oil for this first change. They then recommended switching to synthetic oil at 4,000mi. I don't know about you all, but I'm going to go with what COBB and their certified tuners recommend - they've worked on and built more of these engines than just about anyone else out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
By the way 1000 RPM makes a huge difference. The car comes alive between 3000 and 4000 rpm. It's so fun to drive. Handles like nothing I've ever driven before.
 
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