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Just going off what I was told lol but either way I got better ones in and car almost back together. Also it wasn't a hg failure. I stretched the studs. There was no damaged to the gasket.
 

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Will you replace replace the gaskets?
 

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I rode in a 625 whp STi a few months back and it was insane on the street. I couldn't imagine that much power just driving around

my car makes 400 whp on Sport mode(20 psi) and 462 whp on Sport sharp and its a lot to just drive around with.
 

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I will be happy with 375 HP to the wheels.
I'm hoping to get into the low 3's and I'll be happy :ROFLMAO:
Zero intention on building the block unless it pops!
Stage 2 pro tune with downpipe, headers, fp, fpr, and tcv.
Pump gas! 🤷‍♂️
 

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I have been trying to do some research. I currently have a 2019 STI. Trading it in for 2021, been waiting 2 months already and won't arrive for another month.

I really enjoy the platform and am always surprised at stock numbers and how it feels (maybe some will disagree). But I have some plans for the new one when it arrives, and somewhere down the road, I plan on doing a complete build and aiming for a fun 550WHP reliable (I hope) street vehicle. I have driven the Cadillac CTS-V and it was really fun/rush to drive, I expect this build would be very different. Not really interested in the track, but who's to say that may change.

Anyways, my question is if anyone has achieved 550WHP reliably on this platform? I am trying to figure out cost wise what this may be to get here. I think having a built car would be super cool and if anyone is a true car person, they would definitely appreciate it. I would love to share the fun with people and I would say that is my goal. To get smiles per gallon :)

I appreciate any feedback!
Like others have said, reliable at that power level is relative. I daily 560whp, and besides the cost, there are a few other things to keep in mind. I'm not trying to be condescending, but a CTSV is nothing like a 700+hp STI. The tree you inevitably understeer into comes up quick at that power level. Second, depending on your cam, turbo, and clutch set up, they can be a pain to daily. Lastly, maintenance will happen more often, and be more expensive. Oil change intervals with ethanol are shorter, and depending on what oil you run, more expensive. Brakes, tires, trans fluid, clutches head gaskets even. Gas will also be an issue if you cant find E85, or only have 91. All that said, it can be done "reliably" for around 20-30k, give or take how far you want to take it, and if you want more power later. Which you will. Buy once, cry once.

-You're looking at a forged bottom end, rods, pistons, bearings, closed decking, or sleeves, pinned mains(if you want), beefed up hardware etc. There are a few companies that sell assembled short/ long blocks. Over build your motor. If you're doing the work yourself, read, a lot, about everything.
-You can make 500 with stock heads, but if you're pulling the motor and building the short block, build the heads. You don't need to worry about the valves, but the springs, retainers, guides , I would greatly consider, especially if you're going to be upping the rpms. As for cams, I run kelford 264/260's. Its a good street cam. But I've seen builds make 500+ on stock cams. You do not need to port your heads, but again, if your building them, and the moneys right, might not be a bad idea.
-JE pro seal head gaskets wouldn't hurt. I run an Athena Gasket with fire rings.
-Consider 14mm headstuds. At the very least a set of 625 studs. Regardless of the turbo you run, you'll be over 25psi, and lifting the head becomes a possibility.
-Fueling will need to be addressed. Bigger pump, fuel rails, injectors, regulator, filter. E85 will be a must, unless your are running a lot of boost and are being pretty aggressive with the timing. IMO over build your fuel system. Never a bad idea.
-The stock intake manifold will be good, but you'll need a set of TGV deletes. Id also consider a front mount intercooler, external wastegate set up, 3-4 port boost control solenoid. There are a few turbos that will make it to 550 in stock location, but do a rotated turbo set up. Just saying. 3in exhaust. equal length headers.
-If you want a heightened sense of security, you can go with a stand alone ECU, which has far more capabilities when implementing failsafe's.
-Get an Air Oil separator. The stock PCV system is a problem. An oil cooler might not be a bad idea, depending on where you live, or if you want to track the car. Oil pickup is a must. Ask your engine guy about a bigger oil pump. Some suggest it, some think its unnecessary for street cars.
-I HIGHLY suggest you get a twin disc clutch that is geared towards street use. Puck clutches are no good for a daily. My opinion.
-Beefed up mounts. Group N mounts will do for a daily. Fluid dampener and pulley tensioner are pretty inexpensive, all things considered.
-You're going to need, at the very least, a 3bar MAP sensor.
- Do your research on what turbo you wanna run. The bigger, the more laggy, the less boost you'll need to make your number. the smaller, more responsive, the more boost you'll need. There are countless forums on turbos set ups. I can only tell you what I've ran. An FP Black will get you there with a walbro 450, 1300cc injectors, at @26ish lbs on E85 stock location, or a PTE 6466. At the end of the day, ask the guys building your car, and your tuner. They will no better than anyone.

I'm sure I've missed some things, but these are definitely things you will need to take into consideration when trying to turn a 30k car into a 60k car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Like others have said, reliable at that power level is relative. I daily 560whp, and besides the cost, there are a few other things to keep in mind. I'm not trying to be condescending, but a CTSV is nothing like a 700+hp STI. The tree you inevitably understeer into comes up quick at that power level. Second, depending on your cam, turbo, and clutch set up, they can be a pain to daily. Lastly, maintenance will happen more often, and be more expensive. Oil change intervals with ethanol are shorter, and depending on what oil you run, more expensive. Brakes, tires, trans fluid, clutches head gaskets even. Gas will also be an issue if you cant find E85, or only have 91. All that said, it can be done "reliably" for around 20-30k, give or take how far you want to take it, and if you want more power later. Which you will. Buy once, cry once.

-You're looking at a forged bottom end, rods, pistons, bearings, closed decking, or sleeves, pinned mains(if you want), beefed up hardware etc. There are a few companies that sell assembled short/ long blocks. Over build your motor. If you're doing the work yourself, read, a lot, about everything.
-You can make 500 with stock heads, but if you're pulling the motor and building the short block, build the heads. You don't need to worry about the valves, but the springs, retainers, guides , I would greatly consider, especially if you're going to be upping the rpms. As for cams, I run kelford 264/260's. Its a good street cam. But I've seen builds make 500+ on stock cams. You do not need to port your heads, but again, if your building them, and the moneys right, might not be a bad idea.
-JE pro seal head gaskets wouldn't hurt. I run an Athena Gasket with fire rings.
-Consider 14mm headstuds. At the very least a set of 625 studs. Regardless of the turbo you run, you'll be over 25psi, and lifting the head becomes a possibility.
-Fueling will need to be addressed. Bigger pump, fuel rails, injectors, regulator, filter. E85 will be a must, unless your are running a lot of boost and are being pretty aggressive with the timing. IMO over build your fuel system. Never a bad idea.
-The stock intake manifold will be good, but you'll need a set of TGV deletes. Id also consider a front mount intercooler, external wastegate set up, 3-4 port boost control solenoid. There are a few turbos that will make it to 550 in stock location, but do a rotated turbo set up. Just saying. 3in exhaust. equal length headers.
-If you want a heightened sense of security, you can go with a stand alone ECU, which has far more capabilities when implementing failsafe's.
-Get an Air Oil separator. The stock PCV system is a problem. An oil cooler might not be a bad idea, depending on where you live, or if you want to track the car. Oil pickup is a must. Ask your engine guy about a bigger oil pump. Some suggest it, some think its unnecessary for street cars.
-I HIGHLY suggest you get a twin disc clutch that is geared towards street use. Puck clutches are no good for a daily. My opinion.
-Beefed up mounts. Group N mounts will do for a daily. Fluid dampener and pulley tensioner are pretty inexpensive, all things considered.
-You're going to need, at the very least, a 3bar MAP sensor.
- Do your research on what turbo you wanna run. The bigger, the more laggy, the less boost you'll need to make your number. the smaller, more responsive, the more boost you'll need. There are countless forums on turbos set ups. I can only tell you what I've ran. An FP Black will get you there with a walbro 450, 1300cc injectors, at @26ish lbs on E85 stock location, or a PTE 6466. At the end of the day, ask the guys building your car, and your tuner. They will no better than anyone.

I'm sure I've missed some things, but these are definitely things you will need to take into consideration when trying to turn a 30k car into a 60k car.
This is great advice. I really appreciate the response - I am doing a trade up for a 2021 currently and got an offer I couldn't refuse. This will definitely be somewhere down the line.

I think I will start small and work up. Perhaps I may run into a wall.. in the sense where maybe I'll find a power level I wouldn't want to go above. But appreciate this advice!
 

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Yeah, the above is the cook book . . .

I want to say thought that if your are doing a build of that magnitude justice, it's not goin to be a normal street car and if you want normal, just don't do it. Even at 350+ stuff comes up fast on the street.

One thing made me sad in that post understeer. Having understeer on a car with build like that has not done it justice. It took me a long time to figure out why I've been so unimpressed with my 2020. It was that my 350+AWHP 05 is far more of a rear wheel drive car than the stock 2020. In fact I now drive the 2020 like a FWD car :(. Makes me realize I will never be impressed without more power and weight transfer - even with a cement stiff suspension . . .
 

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Yeah, the above is the cook book . . .

I want to say thought that if your are doing a build of that magnitude justice, it's not goin to be a normal street car and if you want normal, just don't do it. Even at 350+ stuff comes up fast on the street.

One thing made me sad in that post oversteer. Having understeer on a car with build like that has not done it justice. It took me a long time to figure out why I've been so unimpressed with my 2020. It was that my 350+AWHP 05 i far more of a rear wheel drive car that the stock 2020. In fact I now drive the 2020 like a FWD car :(. Makes me realize I will never be impressed without more power and weight transfer - even with a cement stiff suspension . . .
Sounds like you, sir, need bigger swaybars :LOL:
 

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In the 2020? Yeah, its stock. For the time being it is what it is for.

But what I was commenting on was a fully built car with stock sounding understeer. Even a mid power car like my 05 is nothing like stock. Under power becomes mostly a rear-wheel drive car. At "track" speeds it is light actually light and nimble. Under decel? Handing there is all about the driver . . . in a decent handing STI.
 

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In the 2020? Yeah, its stock. For the time being it is what it is for.

But what I was commenting on was a fully built car with stock sounding understeer. Even a mid power car like my 05 is nothing like stock. Under power becomes mostly a rear-wheel drive car. At "track" speeds it is light actually light and nimble. Under decel? Handing there is all about the driver . . . in a decent handing STI.
I don’t care how well your car is set up. If your doing 100+ on the street, which you shouldn’t , but we all have, and a corner sneaks up on you, you are not oversteering out of that. You will continue on straight with you wheel at full lock, and become a stock of celery. Respectfully. The track, that’s another story. Is a good point to bring up though. I left out suspension stuff.
 

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I had a typo - intended and thought I typed understeer. Now corrected. Comming up fast is true regardless. - same
 

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Nobody seems to mention they have 500+ hp for 1/2 a second at 6k-7k rpm? Its a world of difference going from a large displacement v8 with or w/o a supercharger to a small displacement 4 cylinder with a huge turbo.

Everyone seems to have the dream of FIE HUNNERT HERSPOWERS until they realize it's going to cost them 20 grand, many months if not years of time, and wind up with a car that sucks to drive everyday.

Making your subi a drag strip car? go nuts. You want big power, reliable with smooth power delivery, for the street, pick a different car =)
 

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Seems the OP has abandoned post.

Question for some of you guys... How would you specifically say drivability is sacrificed? I ask because some posts make it seem like the car will be transformed into a play toy only, without much ability for daily life. I know this is subjective, just looking for experiences you've had that have driven the opinions.

For me, it's a subtle increase in NVH, obviously the power delivery changes, and potentially cold start anomalies on E85 (although E85 cold start tunes are much better than they used to be). Aside from that, our cars have generally drive well on the street. Not any different from stock aside from the above changes. With a little coaching to the wife and a 'do not floor it, unless you're ready for it' warning, she does her usual errands, pick up kids, etc., without issue.
 

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Seems the OP has abandoned post.

Question for some of you guys... How would you specifically say drivability is sacrificed? I ask because some posts make it seem like the car will be transformed into a play toy only, without much ability for daily life. I know this is subjective, just looking for experiences you've had that have driven the opinions.

For me, it's a subtle increase in NVH, obviously the power delivery changes, and potentially cold start anomalies on E85 (although E85 cold start tunes are much better than they used to be). Aside from that, our cars have generally drive well on the street. Not any different from stock aside from the above changes. With a little coaching to the wife and a 'do not floor it, unless you're ready for it' warning, she does her usual errands, pick up kids, etc., without issue.
I have yet to drive an STi with 500+. but i have driven a few making over 400, and i'd say the same thing. a little more NVH, but nothing crazy, and so long as you arent flooring it everywhere and driving normally, it's really not hard to do at all, i'd imagine with 500+ all it would be is a tad more lag when you step on it. even with my current setup making 377whp i have to drop a gear to get into the powerband, and i know i'm doing it, driving normally it's not like a light switch like some make it out to be.
 

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It is always a trade off on ICE with smaller displacement. Looking for more power above 450-500 whp will generally require a turbo that does not really hit until 5k plus. If your looking for major off the bottom torque go larger displacement or electric.
 
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