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I have been trying to do some research. I currently have a 2019 STI. Trading it in for 2021, been waiting 2 months already and won't arrive for another month.

I really enjoy the platform and am always surprised at stock numbers and how it feels (maybe some will disagree). But I have some plans for the new one when it arrives, and somewhere down the road, I plan on doing a complete build and aiming for a fun 550WHP reliable (I hope) street vehicle. I have driven the Cadillac CTS-V and it was really fun/rush to drive, I expect this build would be very different. Not really interested in the track, but who's to say that may change.

Anyways, my question is if anyone has achieved 550WHP reliably on this platform? I am trying to figure out cost wise what this may be to get here. I think having a built car would be super cool and if anyone is a true car person, they would definitely appreciate it. I would love to share the fun with people and I would say that is my goal. To get smiles per gallon :)

I appreciate any feedback!
 

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This is a subjective answer, but you're best bet is to get a built motor from IAG or similar reputable engine builder, and go from there. You'll need to spend some money to properly build with the right parts and systems (like oiling/cooling, etc.) I'd say expect to pay somewhere between 20-30k for a solid "reliable" build. There are others on here who will be a better resource than me, but I can tell you right now that it's always better to buy higher quality, more expensive parts rather than cheaping out and risk breaking something. There are numerous turbos that can get you that power, a few would be Forced Performance (FP Black), Precision Turbo, and Garrett. I'd suggest going to YouTube or looking on this forum for builds that are around your desired horsepower goals. The great thing about the EJ257 is that it's been around for so long, and there are proven methods to reaching any kind of power range. Your tuner will also be instrumental in getting the most reliability out of the engine. Since you're already an owner of a 2019, you probably know that driving habits also contribute to the longevity of these engines. Simple answer: E85, big turbo.
 

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Longblock and engine hardware alone you should expect to spend north of 10-15k.
That includes internals (built block), fmic, dp, turbo, injectors, rails, etc. etc.
Then you wana power-proof the chassis with mounts, suspension, brake improvements (pads and lines), etc.
Don't forget about oiling and cooling improvements either.
Then you gotta put some wide GOOD rubber under the chassis.
I see so many people quick to shove 265's under their car but a good set of 245's would likely outperform them.
I'd say expect to spend at least 25 to get it to where it's at that power level reliably.
Of course, a lot of the cost can/ will depend on what you install yourself.
If you just wana throw money at a shop and say 'give me a super fast car', they'll do it, but then you're looking at easily north of 30 if you let them.

E85 makes a massive impact too.
You can get well north of 300 wheel on a basic stage 2 with an e85 pro-tune, but will be struggling to crack 3 with the same hardware on regular gas.

The main difference between the 2021 and a 2008 engine wise is a more efficient hot side on the turbo and slightly stronger internals. Once you go for 550hp, it all becomes the same engine, because you are basically going to be replacing everything with the same parts.

550hp reliably out of a 2.5L doesn't come cheap.
That said, you can factor the GR(2008-2014) and earlier VA(2015-2018) into your research, because the commonalities on the hardware front are pretty linear.

+1 on the IAG front. If I was going to be building my engine for power, I'd be picking up one of their built long blocks with a closed deck, no question.
 
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Congrats i did the same I traded in my 19' STI for a 21' STI Limited back in April.
 

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I have been trying to do some research. I currently have a 2019 STI. Trading it in for 2021, been waiting 2 months already and won't arrive for another month.

I really enjoy the platform and am always surprised at stock numbers and how it feels (maybe some will disagree). But I have some plans for the new one when it arrives, and somewhere down the road, I plan on doing a complete build and aiming for a fun 550WHP reliable (I hope) street vehicle. I have driven the Cadillac CTS-V and it was really fun/rush to drive, I expect this build would be very different. Not really interested in the track, but who's to say that may change.

Anyways, my question is if anyone has achieved 550WHP reliably on this platform? I am trying to figure out cost wise what this may be to get here. I think having a built car would be super cool and if anyone is a true car person, they would definitely appreciate it. I would love to share the fun with people and I would say that is my goal. To get smiles per gallon :)

I appreciate any feedback!
I apologize in advance for taking your posting in another direction, but I had a question regarding the delivery of your vehicle. When did you order your car and how do you know you have a month left until it arrives? I ordered my STI limited at the beginning of June and my salesman texted me a few days ago saying it looks like it will be arriving mid-July. I’m curious, how do you know when it will arrive? Thanks!
 

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Look into Prime Motoring and JR Tuned. They supposedly have a few in the 500-610 whp range on stock 19 up long blocks. The are all rotated turbo setups on E85. I guy I follow on Instagram has 16-17k miles on the 610 whp build. I would not say these are going to hit 50k plus miles at that hp level, but who knows. fyi
 

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it's easy to do, but expensive. to make that power reliably you'll want:
IAG Block: go closed deck for sure.
IAG Heads: go with the bigger head studs and a small to medium sized cam for the street.
a clutch that will hold this wtq you'll make
all associated gaskets needed
turbo, for this, go rotated, you will have a better hotside which will allow for better spool up and response times. you can make 550+ on multiple different turbos. personally i say the smaller the better just cause the smaller it is the more responsive it'll be. you also have twinscroll options which will jack up the price, although that is not necessary by any means. a single scroll setup will be perfectly good.
fuel system. for this i'd HIGHLY suggest going with e85. making that much power on pump gas is possible, but will be so laggy to get a turbo big enough to flow that much it really wont be all that fun. flex fuel aka e85 is not only better for making power, but is safer than pump gas as it is less prone to detonation.
supporting mods, cat back, sensors, etc.
reliability mods, aos, cyl 4 cooling mod, etc.


all in all i'd guess you'll sit about 18-20k in parts alone. maybe a tad more. if you can do the labor yourself, wonderful, if not i'd bump that up into the 30k ish range for everything.

all this said, i have seen people making over 500 on the stock long block on the newer models. while this may be possible i'm not sure how reliable it would be. if you want to go this route expect to have to get a motor at some point. also expect that you may need to get every oil line replaced and possibly rebuild the turbo if it blows, rebuilding the turbo is a worst case scenario, but a possibility. replacing the oiling system is something suggested by any engine builder if the motor was not in good running condition when pulled.
 

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Do you know what 550 WHP feels like in a 2021 STI? I ask this because you seem to have zeroed in on an arbitrary amount of power right out of the box and I'm not sure you know why you want this much power.

The ethos around this car has always been balanced performance. The platforms perceived shortcomings are personal, and experiencing the car in moderate build/improvement increments allows you to address what YOU find lacking.
 

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Do you know what 550 WHP feels like in a 2021 STI? I ask this because you seem to have zeroed in on an arbitrary amount of power right out of the box and I'm not sure you know why you want this much power.

The ethos around this car has always been balanced performance. The platforms perceived shortcomings are personal, and experiencing the car in moderate build/improvement increments allows you to address what YOU find lacking.
This right here ^^ To the OP, why is 550whp a goal? Not for nothing but the stock power level of these cars and 550whp is VERY different. I would first make sure you know what you're getting yourself into. Most guys dont jump from stock to a full on build. I would first suggest you try and do some baby steps in mods and see how you feel about the power output then. It may not be a good idea to spend 20-30K on a build if all you may be comfortable driving is roughly a fraction of that cost in terms of power output.
 

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finally if you do this "right" you will no longer have a nice car. It will be an awesome toy - one that I would thoroughly enjoy for my 120 mi/day and one that my wife would not want to ride in . . .
 
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This right here ^^ To the OP, why is 550whp a goal? Not for nothing but the stock power level of these cars and 550whp is VERY different. I would first make sure you know what you're getting yourself into. Most guys dont jump from stock to a full on build. I would first suggest you try and do some baby steps in mods and see how you feel about the power output then. It may not be a good idea to spend 20-30K on a build if all you may be comfortable driving is roughly a fraction of that cost in terms of power output.
Yes, work your way up. You'd be surprised how much fun the car is with some simple bolt ons and can remain reliable.

Plus it's fun to build and see how each change affects the car.

But, at the end of the day.. you gotta do you. Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 

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I used to own a 2006 EVO IX way back in the day. Purchased it brand new & kept it simple bolt-ons & tune for several years.
I went to buy used one back in 2008 from Carmax in S.Florida with 5k mikes on it. Actually paid to have it transferred from Nashville TN. Passenger rear door had dent/ding with paint broke and non original tires. I got refund and walked.
 

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I'm pushing about 550ish to the wheels in my 15 sit. I started out doing full bolt ons and ethonal. Ran that for a couple years then built the motor and upgraded to heads. Running a blouch 4.0xtr on ethonal and the car moves. I made the mistake in getting the arp2000 head studs and they couldn't hold. Now I have are 625+ and getting the car back on the road. I daily the sit and by the way it drove you wouldn't guess it made that much.
 

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I'm pushing about 550ish to the wheels in my 15 sit. . . . built the motor and upgraded to heads. Running a blouch 4.0xtr on ethonal and the car moves. I made the mistake in getting the arp2000 head studs and they couldn't hold. Now I have are 625+ and getting the car back on the road. I daily the sit and by the way it drove you wouldn't guess it made that much.
Was it reliable?
Will it be reliable?
 

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This right here ^^ To the OP, why is 550whp a goal? Not for nothing but the stock power level of these cars and 550whp is VERY different. I would first make sure you know what you're getting yourself into. Most guys dont jump from stock to a full on build. I would first suggest you try and do some baby steps in mods and see how you feel about the power output then. It may not be a good idea to spend 20-30K on a build if all you may be comfortable driving is roughly a fraction of that cost in terms of power output.
That most certainly is a great response. Kudos to you. In fact I had a chance to drive a similar car to the one that he wants to build. And that was going from my stock series white. It is amazing how fast the car got out of hand. All it takes is a couple of seconds to destroy all that money. Baby steps that’s not a bad way to go.
 

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Was it reliable?
Will it be reliable?
It will be reliable now that the weak part is gone. If I knew the arp2000s were not rated for more than 500tq I wouldn't have gotten then. Lucid215is my if as well if you want to see everything I've done and what I do with the sti besides daily driving it lol
 

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It will be reliable now that the weak part is gone. If I knew the arp2000s were not rated for more than 500tq I wouldn't have gotten then. Lucid215is my if as well if you want to see everything I've done and what I do with the sti besides daily driving it lol
Pretty sure head studs are never rated for wheel torque . . . .whatever . . . Hopefully the 625+s work for you.
. . .
A HG failure, for any reason before some number of miles disqualifies the car as reliable. What was the mileage?
 
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